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Beef Wellington reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Thank you Lawrence, looking forward to see what you do with your flags buddy.
I've been working on the main flag staff, trying to get it the way I want:
I can put it on the ship, but will not glue it stuck until later in the build:
/Matti
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from realworkingsailor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Very impressive Andy!
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Beef Wellington reacted to scott larkins in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Really nice work
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Beef Wellington reacted to Blue Ensign in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Nic shots of Snake Jason, I like the look of models with just the lower masts and standing rigging in place. The ratlines look good to me and your clamping arrangement should also help guard against pulling the shrouds out of line.
B.E.
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Beef Wellington reacted to realworkingsailor in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Looks like you've pretty well mastered rattling. Very well done.
Andy
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Beef Wellington reacted to realworkingsailor in SS Stadacona by realworkingsailor - Sylvan Scale Models - 1:87 - Resin/Multimedia - kit-bash
Alright, photos as promised.
The stern anchor pocket is little more than a light baffle on the model. Given the confines of the area, and the limits of actual visibility, not much more is needed. The pillar in the middle is to correct a downwards bow in the deck at that point, and will remain in place.
As I said earlier, all the hull sections are now in place, as well as now the last remaining deck section. There is a considerable ammount of filling and sanding needed in order to clean everything up. Having the hull finished means I can also get to work installing some of the deck fittings, bollards and fairleads and the like. Since they will all start out being painted the same colour as the deck, I'm not worried about work arounds at this time.
Anyway, one more overview shot, from the stern this time.
Yes... she's big.... 4' 8" long...
Andy
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Beef Wellington reacted to Landlubber Mike in Mast alignment
I glued the masts on my Badger for the same reason. The rake was predetermined by the slots in the keel, so it was just a matter of limiting the lateral motion.
Is there a particular reason not to glue the masts?
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Beef Wellington reacted to Ulises Victoria in Mast alignment
I don't know who said that Ian, but it sounds to me like saying I will not drive my car because I may have an accident
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Ian B in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
All Righty Then.. Here's a few gratuitous Clamp, Peg & Pin Shots for all ye folks into that kind of thing (You Know Who Ye Are.. For Shame! )
To Quote Father Ted.. 'Down With That Sort Of Thing' ... 'Careful Now'... !
(Anyone out there who doesn't know 'Father Ted', just Google it, and enjoy. There was actually a Fr. Ted festival over in the West of Ireland last weekend and people from all over the world came to it! )
Ok on with the show..
Got some more planking done this morning, the Port side is slowly catching up with Stbd. I'll catch up fully before continuing on down both sides as I think I'm at the Wale Height on Stbd. !
When they are level I plan on planking the Stern immediately below the Transom Piece, that way the Hull Planking will Overlap the edges of this Stern Planking.. I might even plank the Transom itself as there is a Walnut Surround to go on it and the contrast could be interesting!
Thanks for checking in and have a great Weekend ok
Sail 'er Easy
Eamonn
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Beef Wellington reacted to dafi in HMS Victory by dafi - Heller - PLASTIC - To Victory and beyond ...
I love this little lantern ...
... it enlightens me ...
... makes me dream ...
... makes me feel good ...
... at least midshipman Mr. Westphal seems to be happy and content ...
XXXDAn
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Beef Wellington reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
well i have comm ited my self now to the new version, personally i think it is for the better, any suggestions are welcome as always, sorry for the poor photo's
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from JesseLee in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Timmo in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from hamilton in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from jastrząb in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
-
Beef Wellington got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Well, its been a little longer than I had I thought. I got into a bit of a funk with a couple of aspects of the rigging and felt myself forcing things - so decided to take a bit of a break. I think I got lucky with my first mouse, replicating it proved to be rather challenging but decided to make them all in one go so they are as consistent as can be (why don't any manufacturers make mice?).
Not much to report, but I am back in the shipyard at least...I do still want to try and capture each step in order for future reference, so apologize if this is less than thrilling.
Maintop with main and preventer stays in place...
Main and preventer stays attached to their respective hearts. Did not serve around the stays where they rub against the fore-mast as would have been done. I didn't use the supplied 1.25mm line as supplied as it seemed a little too thick and out of scal, instead going with some 'officially' 1.3mm Caldercraft line which in reality was slightly thinner than the supplied 1.25mm stuff. This proved to be a 'fuzzy' nightmare but once in place I brushed with dilute PVA and they seem to have been banished.
The lashing of the hearts was done with fake splice to the lower heart (although believe this maybe should have been to the upper heart) and then seizing the other end to the lashing. The hearts have circular holes, I'd recommend flattening off the lower side so the lashing sits better, as it is, I found this quite tricky to look right.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from NMBROOK in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from clloyd in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
-
Beef Wellington got a reaction from Sjors in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington reacted to Dfell in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Beef Wellington (Jason) - I enjoy looking at your build as it is quite inspirational and it is hard to believe it is your first build !! Your workmanship is exceptional !!
Keep it coming.....
Cheers
Doug
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from egkb in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines. Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades). All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable. But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think. Obviously work still to do. Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension. Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains. Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'. My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed. This technique helped a lot!
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes. This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud). I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from JesseLee in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Well, its been a little longer than I had I thought. I got into a bit of a funk with a couple of aspects of the rigging and felt myself forcing things - so decided to take a bit of a break. I think I got lucky with my first mouse, replicating it proved to be rather challenging but decided to make them all in one go so they are as consistent as can be (why don't any manufacturers make mice?).
Not much to report, but I am back in the shipyard at least...I do still want to try and capture each step in order for future reference, so apologize if this is less than thrilling.
Maintop with main and preventer stays in place...
Main and preventer stays attached to their respective hearts. Did not serve around the stays where they rub against the fore-mast as would have been done. I didn't use the supplied 1.25mm line as supplied as it seemed a little too thick and out of scal, instead going with some 'officially' 1.3mm Caldercraft line which in reality was slightly thinner than the supplied 1.25mm stuff. This proved to be a 'fuzzy' nightmare but once in place I brushed with dilute PVA and they seem to have been banished.
The lashing of the hearts was done with fake splice to the lower heart (although believe this maybe should have been to the upper heart) and then seizing the other end to the lashing. The hearts have circular holes, I'd recommend flattening off the lower side so the lashing sits better, as it is, I found this quite tricky to look right.