Beef Wellington

Made a little more progress this weekend with the mizzenmast staysails, top gallant and top sails. I need to mount the crossjack then finally the mizzen sail. 



 

Currently debating whether I will put up the mizzen staysail or not. I left off the lowest staysails at the main and foremast so as not to cover up the deck detail. The gap from the deck to the bottom mizzen top mast staysail is higher than the other masts so it kind of seems out of balance.  Maybe it will even out when the crossjack is put up. Problem is it will be very difficult to get in there to install all the necessary blocks for the rigging now. 
 
Finally I need to go back and tie up the braces and make what seems like a thousand rope coils for the belaying pins and various odds and ends… all by mid September so it is ready for the Northeast conference 
 
Tom

Hi all,
It has been a while since I posted but I am still picking away it when I can. Still have lines hanging all over the place but making progress. All the main staysails and mast sails are up with most of the lines rigged. Getting ready to move on to the mizzenmast area next. 

 
i need to pick up the pace if I am to get it finished for the Northeast conference at the beginning of October!  Funny thing though, the more things I knock off my “chores around the house” list the longer it gets!😜 That “work for a living” thing seems to be getting in the way a lot too!🤣😜
 
Tom

here's some final shots, that's all folks

The additional ornament on the stern gallery was another story. As the curve was delicate, I splitted it up in 2 halves.
Next pics show my woodcurving skills are limited, less to say equal to zero
 
The decoration strips under the window are an assembly of 2 styrene strips : a half round 1,5 mm and  a 1x2mm strip

Next update : the quarterdeckgalleries. Especially the windows

Because of carelessness, I failed again! Measurements found that the width of the sides was 4 mm smaller. I compressed the goddess's ample breasts. . .
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
That was a cheap mistake!  Prepare for the third rework...
 
 

All that remains is to add the iron bands:

 
reasonably straightforward using a method I saw elsewhere on this site - perhaps @James H -  2mm wide lengths of cartridge paper cut out.  Tacked in place at 25 mm intervals on the after centreline of the mast using CA, wrapped around, trimmed to length, coated lightly with PVA, pressed on and held for 2 min.  Scarcely a worry.  Top tacked with PVA, seemed to sit square and parallel to the waterline (much shaping of the bibbs required at an earlier stage)
 
Foremast swayed up!
 

 
You can tell, I insist, that the mast has been tapered to take the cheeks

 
And herre that the top sits on the bibbs
 

 
You can even get vertigo

 
Back when I have done another one or two.
 

Absolutely marvellous BE. Congratulations, and like others, I'm looking forward to your next build 👍.
 
Cheers

You have made a wonderful model, B.E., and it has been a pleasure to watch your meticulous care and attention to all details, great and small.  While Chuck makes an excellent kit, it still requires great talent and finesse to bring it to its fullest realization.  Congratulations on a job well done!

Another masterpiece BE!  Congratulations on a fantastic build.  Looks incredible, great job!

Hi Mitsuaki, your deck is beautiful and very well executed.  I think you made a good choice!  I'm currently planking the upper deck of the Diana kit and will be taking exactly the same approach you did to the gangway planking (the plans are not very clear in this area for this ship either).

Congratulations on completing another amazing build, once again a gold standard in build logs and execution.  I love how you the figures came together, they really add to the aura of the model.  The technique of using fixative on the flags is definitely something to store away in the memory banks.

Congratulations on completing another amazing build, once again a gold standard in build logs and execution.  I love how you the figures came together, they really add to the aura of the model.  The technique of using fixative on the flags is definitely something to store away in the memory banks.

Thank you Guys for your generous comments, and a special thanks to Chuck for making all this possible.
 
As for what's next, I have completed six models over the past two years of various scales and types, so I'll wait awhile before I decide.
 
In the meantime I do have Chuck's little Double Capstan kit on the shelf, and I've thought that it may make a nice little addition to the case of my Pegasus model. 🙂
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Post Forty-eight
 
Completion
I decided I would keep the display simple using the keel support stands supplied in the kit.

2972(2)
These were glued to a strip of ⅛” Castello Boxwood 3” x 24” left over from my Cheerful Build.

2973(2)
This was dyed Jacobean Dark Oak. I normally baulk at dyeing Boxwood but the piece was handy and in its natural colour was too pale for the scheme.

3009(2)
For space saving I have gone with the oar racks arrangement and the whole model fits in a space of 5½” wide by 24” long by 10” high.
Not sure whether I will get an acrylic cover to fit over the model at this stage as it is relatively easy to dust.

3007

2975

2983(2)
 
I have re-visited the Oarsman and adjusted his dress.

3012
I recall that Jason (Beef Wellington) suggested:-
 Think if you can get a little more 'flounce' to the bottom of the jacket to differentiate from the breeches they'll look great.
I took his advice and I think the figure does indeed look better.
It was also necessary to tweak the arm/hands position to accommodate the loom of the oar.

3014(2)

3030(2)

3020
 

3021
Not sure I can face the making of another nine oarsmen, but I think I will keep the one with the display.

3003(2)

2995(2)

2998(2)
 
As always there are areas I feel I could have done better but overall I am pleased with the result and have something very nice to add to my collection.
 
Thoughts about the kit
This Royal Barge offering from Syren is a very fine thing indeed. An interesting and rather unique subject at a scale that allows for clear detail.
This is a kit with many pre spiled laser cut parts, but it doesn’t feel like a kit, and any thoughts of a simple assembly job should be dismissed.
Chuck has produced a design that allows the modeller to experience a futtock and frame assembly and offers an introduction to carving decoration.
Great care and thought is required throughout and the end result is a model that clearly echoes the splendid admiralty style models displayed partly in-frame.
I have thoroughly enjoyed this build and the challenges presented, and have no hesitation in commending this kit to the membership.
Thank you, Chuck, for five months of concentration, joy, and a little frustration.
 
 
B.E
26/07/21
 

Thank you Bruce, nearly there now. 🙂
 
Post Forty-seven
 
Dressing the oars.
The kit provides a stylised Dolphin design to decorate the face of the oar blades.
These are printed on paper and require close cutting before gluing to the blades.
 
I started with a No11 scalpel blade, but found that small pointed scissors proved a better means of cutting without tearing. Even so it proved quite a time consuming business.
 
I used 6mm Tamiya tape to ensure an equal placing distance from the blade tip.
 
The designs are ‘handed’ for port and starboard oars.
 
Once applied using dilute pva, the edges were painted around, and a coat of w-o-p applied to the design.
The final act is to add thin strips around the tip of the blade to represent a binding used to prevent the blade tip splitting.
I understand that Leather, tin, or perhaps copper strips were used for this purpose.
 
I decided to use copper for no other reason than I liked it but this is a Royal Barge and one can imagine the sunlight flashing off the blade tips as the oars moved with the stroke.

2952

2953(2)

2956
All work is now completed on this build which is not the same as finished.
There is a stand to prepare, and some faffing and fussing with the model before the final build photos are presented.
 
B.E.
24/07/21

Post Forty-six
 
Flag staffs and Flags.
 
Two Flag staffs are required to be made from provided dowel.
The staffs have decorative features in the form of wooden balls, but there is scope to elaborate the decoration if desired.

2907
I added extra balls and enhanced the Truck slightly.
 
One small puzzlement I had was that with the staffs cut to the plan dimensions the Fore-staff was the same height as the Main-staff when fitted.
Completed Broadside photos seemed to indicate that the Fore-staff was slightly shorter.
 
Chuck has provided two flags to adorn the Barge, The Royal Standard and the Union Flag.
 
The Royal Standard is of the period 1704-1714, and the Union Flag 1606 – 1800.
Both are produced using the print on tissue paper method, in my opinion by far the best medium for model boat purposes, unless those models are very large indeed.
 
For hoisting the flags, I will use a series of Ribands to secure the Flag, with the topmost ring attached to the mast truck.
 
The Royal Standard
Before I started messing with the flags I took the precaution of taking copies just in case things went pear-shaped.

2847
The copies were printed on Modelspan tissue.

2891
One of the spares was attached to a jury staff to allow me to play with folding and draping technique.
I wanted to get the feel for how the flag would perform during this stage without risking the kit provided versions.

2892
The flag was wetted down using the spray fixative and teased into shape.
 
The proper Standard was then fixed to the Flagstaff.

2914
I had a slight issue with the top of the hoist tearing away from the staff but the fixative held it in place once set.
I was after a loose drape so as not to obscure too much of the colourful design of the standard.
 
The Union Flag

2920
The kit provided Union Flag.
These are always more problematical with the tissue method because when draped the transparency allows the red cross to show thro’ the white sections giving the impression that the ink has run.

2924
This is the effect I mean and this version will not stand.
 
I couldn’t seem to get the drape I was after and was not at all happy with this result.
Nothing for it but to print off some Union Flags onto Modelspan. I used 21gsm weight.

2926
I had thought that the Union Flag was a tad large for the Foremast and would likely to cover the foremost oarsman at the bow.
I reduced the size a tad for these Mk 2 versions and added a hem to the hoist side.

2928
The Mk 2 flag attached to the staff; it has been sprayed with fixative to seal the colours.
2945(2)

2943(2)

2942(2)

2940(2)

2936(2)
The Flag staffs are not glued in place and the flags may receive a little more dressing before the final display.

In the final stages now and back to completion of the oars.
 
B.E.
23/07/21
 
 



 

Hi Mitsuaki, your deck is beautiful and very well executed.  I think you made a good choice!  I'm currently planking the upper deck of the Diana kit and will be taking exactly the same approach you did to the gangway planking (the plans are not very clear in this area for this ship either).

Hi Mitsuaki, your deck is beautiful and very well executed.  I think you made a good choice!  I'm currently planking the upper deck of the Diana kit and will be taking exactly the same approach you did to the gangway planking (the plans are not very clear in this area for this ship either).

I made an error and accidentally posted these on Vane's blog.
 
 
2 weeks later , finished the main gun deck

I am so sorry to all, especially Vane who has been doing such excellent work. I put the photos in the wrong blog . I am new to blog posting. I deleted my error.

Hi George,
 
I really appreciate the advice... I've just finished the other side, and some of these have been glued in place, as the holes were not quite so tight, but I will go over them all again and try and remove them to stick them in place.
 

 
All things said, I'm really pleased with how they've come out. Here's the final sweep. (I'm also pleased that the drilling was much neater on the port side! - a little more care and attention in marking things up)
 
I have a few eyelets to put in place, and then it's on to the coppering! I anticipate buying a large number of superglue bottles over the coming weeks! And I'll need to dig out my vapour mask again.
 
Thanks for the likes, advice and support  Always much appreciated.
 
Rob

Peter,
Thanks for your reply.
 
Deck planking method is one of aspects which are often neglected, but really interesting topic.
 
Judging from two models of Diana held by NMM, gangway is separated structure from fo'c'sle deck and quarterdeck circa 1790s, although these examples are of frigates, not ships of the line.
 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66533.html
 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66303.html
 
BTW, I'm delightful to see your Bellerophon is showing common improvement with me including anchor lining👍
 
 

Weatherdecks planking
 
As I wrote previously, deck planking tapering and curving toward both ends is what I want to represent. It was very tedious work to decrease widths of each plank at various stations, but patience and time solve it.
 
Planking material is 0.5 x 3 mm maple strips I bought from Cornwall Model Boats long ago. Although maple strips aren’t necessary supreme materials for deck planking, they are easily available, and their bright colours are quite acceptable to my eyes. Their widths are varying one by one, but I can select widest one as king’s plank, although its width isn't so obvious to eyes. Also their edges are sometimes coarse but it can be resolved by careful sanding. Anyhow I prefer maple than tanganica for deck planking.
 
I planked according to method of 3 butt system basically. Peter Goodwin wrote 4 butt method was used for quarterdeck, but deck planking drawing on pp 46 to 47 of AOTS Bellona shows 3 butt basically and are some of butt positions are shifted against regular rule of butt system at various points. Perhaps regular 3 butt or 4 butt system is aesthetically appropriate as model, I tried representing butt system which is out of regular rule.
 

 

 

 
When planking is closing outer edge of deck, I cut margin plank from maple sheet. My maple sheet show sign of times comparing maple strips, but I accept it as contrast between normal planks and margin plank. Another set of deck planking plan are printed, then temporary stack to maple sheet and cut alongside of lines of planking plan. Then I engraved dummy scarf at some point. Scarf joint positions are determined to not hidden by guns.
 

 

 

 

 
After glued margin planks onto deck edge, I filled rest of area with representation of hooked planking. They were shaped little by little repeating dry fitting on their positions.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Fo'c'sle deck is also planked in same way.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 
Method of gangway planking is also source of trouble of determination. Victory today shows continuous gangway planking from fo’c’sle deck to quarterdeck, but I believe this is later method. Finally I decided to represent gangway as separate structure between fo’c’sle deck and quarterdeck. I positioned forward end of “Fixed part of the gangway” at slightly forward than Elephant plan to adjust it on aftermost skid beam I previously fitted.
 

 
This was also questionable point, but NMM model of 74 gun ship which is related to Turkey around 1800 shows fairly long fixed part of the gangway.
 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66611.html
 

 
 
I was encouraged by this model and adjusted forward end of fixed part slightly longer forward than Elephant plan. Also I slightly enlarged inner edge of gangway according to depiction of Goodwin. Maybe widened gangway is matching to permanent skid beams.
 
 

 

 

 
 
I also planked poop deck at this point while I’m remembering experience of quarterdeck and fo’c’sle deck. Major difference is that poop deck baseboard is temporary dry fitted, not glued to its position because I wanted to plank poop deck at the situation baseboard is cambered.
 

 

 

 
 
When planking is closing to deck edge, I removed poop deck and glues last of hooked planks and margin plank. This time margin plank is glued at last stage. Inner edge of poop deck margin plank is cut according to planking plan, but outer edge is roughly cut, and cut to correct shape after glued deck edge.
 

 

 

 
 
Although treenailing is not yet started, weatherdeck planking is completed at last. Widths of caulking between planks are varied because of my imperfect work, but I’m satisfied to see representation of tapering and curving of planks are fairly well done.
 

 

 

 

 

Hi Mitsuaki
 
Wonderful deck planking, really well done. Btw. I came to the same conclusion regarding the gangway planking.
 
Cheers
Peter