Jump to content

lambsbk

Members
  • Posts

    910
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lambsbk

  1. Nice work Jesse. No comment on your build (which is excellent) but the chaser cannon tackle is awful close to the rudder tackle. I wonder how they managed that?
  2. Post as many and as often as you like Michael. It is eye candy. Beautiful. Dave
  3. I just realized it was the photo angle. Sorry for the previous post. Anchor cable threw off my perspective. Dave
  4. Regarding your post above Micheal the complements are well deserved. Beautiful work. Dave
  5. I can't believe it has been 3 months since I was able to update a post. I finished the manger and hawse build today. I painted a little mud in the manger but I don't know if it shows up on the pics. I am going to glue the transom and aft section of the spar deck next and insure it is light sealed so the lanterns will not bleed through. It's not much but any progress is better than none. Dave
  6. happy birthday

    1. HIPEXEC

      HIPEXEC

      Thank you! That's very thoughtful of you.

      Rich

  7. Happy birthday Dan.

    1. Dan Vadas

      Dan Vadas

      Thanks mate :).

       

      :cheers:  Danny

  8. I was in an area of totality - unfortunately we were eclipsed by clouds before the moon.
  9. I agree. The hot water should work. I would be very cautious with a hair dryer. The plastic usually melts at 250 degrees give or take and temp is hard to control with the dryer (i.e. warpage). Good luck.
  10. You can use anything that the bolts will traverse. I think mine will be through brass tubes surrounded by a plexiglass tobe cut to match the hull and keel outline. Since I have fiber optics mid-keel I will need 3 tubes total. Let your imagination run with it... Dave
  11. If you installed the nuts into the hull when you glued the 2 halves together the choices are limitless. If not then pedestal mounts. Dave
  12. Resistors work great. Calculate the need based on the wattage and voltage of the LED set. Often the LED's act as there own resistor but you can add to it and reduce the brightness.
  13. Actually don't despair...at least you are MOVING ON to the spar deck. Kit bashing comes at a cost. Progress is slow. Do your build in a way you will enjoy. This model can go from the simplest to complete bashing and it still looks great when finished. The wood effect is not hard to replicated with a little paint brush if you want. I think I described it in my early build log but it came from Andy (andymech) here on this forum. Check out his completed Connie build when you have a chance. Candy for the eyes. Dave
  14. Ageofsail... I have a few spare parts if you need them. PM me with your info. I will try to help. Dave
  15. But mid-keel is full thickness. I will check the size of the bit I used and post it later. I turned the model upside down and carefully centered the bit on my drill press putting the hole squarely between the keel exterior. Several smaller bits were used consecutively. As far as the temp stand goes - you should cradle the model somehow. I chose to do some wood work with a cut out closely matching the hull. I lined that with felt and mounted it to a board - seems to be holding. I was concerned the bolts would eventually wear through the plastic laterally. Lastly - about the cannon port doors - well, you are almost certainly going to loose some of them on the way. Just glue them back on as needed. Dave
  16. I CAREFULLY bored a new hole mid keel to transit my fiberoptics - the right size bit and a careful drill press can do that for you. You will be glad you included the bolts for mounting. I am already using them to hold the ship fast to the cradle while working. The pic link below shows it from the inside. Dave
×
×
  • Create New...