Nirvana
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Here is a link to the Generals website, click buy now and your screen will be populated by various retailer, stock situation and price.
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Mike, one is a single action, bottle underneath and a dual action cup on top. The single action is a paasche airbrush, but the connector is wrong towards the compressor so I haven't used it yet. -
Mike, I am using exclusively Vallejo paint. Had a long talk with a gentleman at HobbyTown yesterday, regarding the three brands they carried at their store. When it comes to pigments Vallejo is the one to go with. Thanks for your comment regarding thinner, I did purchase that too. The last picture is showing Bluenose non-painted starboard side. It only has a foundation and added "filler". Am to try the automotive blue filler someday as someone in here has vouched the easiness of working it.
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Preac Thickness Sander
Nirvana replied to zinfigman's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And go with a higher end of bearing, don't let a cheap price tag get you. If you can find a SKF bearing, you will be set for many years to come and make sure it is sealed. To avoid dust getting into it. -
I am preparing the hull for the major painting...... there are a lot of small holes that are in need of care before the final paint. During the session of air brushing, one of my brushes is not doing its job properly, it's not spraying paint but only air..... which is weird, as I have cleaned the whole unit. Anyway, despite of that I am getting ready for more painting.
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Before I am getting ahead of myself it's time to find the location for the pedestals. I measured the inside height of each pedestal and used the plan to determine the locations for them. Now I have to figure decide whether to go with the board I have or mount the it all on a single board. Using the board the Bluenose is sitting on right now will off-center it in a case. I think that will make it look strange. With the pedestals and a single board display case Bluenose will be centered properly. Thoughts and ideas are highly valued in this matter. If any has pictures I like to see them, just link them in your reply.
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My first trial of air brushing, doing this on the hull. And it turned out so much better than I expected, no running paint at all. So I proceeded with painting the inside of the waist with the airbrush. So easy and the coverage great as well. Looking forward doing more airbrushing. I will do more white airbrushing of the hull for the next step of black/blue and the dull red for the bottom.
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That slight bow you have in your frame will straighten up with filler blocks, make sure they are accurate sized, so they do a proper job. Once out of that, things will be easier. By the way, warm welcome to the Syren land.
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Mike, Seems like you are enjoying your restoration adventure. But using only glue at the hem, it will hold for the moment but not in the long run. I would go with sewing as well, specially inserting the metal rod to create the effect of wind filled sails.
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Vallejo has a white foundation paint, which I used on the waist and stanchions at the port quarter area. Good or bad I don't know but I have a feeling this base might good enough for a single layer regular white. It's bright but probably a good contrast as well.
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What brand of #11 blades do you use
Nirvana replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just checked out Amazon for this purpose and there are options, look into the reviews and do not read the 4 or 5 star ratings , read the 2 or 1 and base your purchase on that. Prices are good all over board so it wouldn't be to hard to get some for trial purpose. Check out surgical tools as they can be useful for our building adventures. Edit: best part for us, even though you buy a 100 pack for some dollars they will last a long time as we can use them over and over again. And not dispose after one usage. -
The buffer house is now completed with the buffer inserted, some touch up paint is in need. The part along with the rail is not glued into place yet, but I am pleased with the result. The over view of the decking is showing the second layer of varnish, I used golden oak which is very universal varnish. It's now drying and waiting for more add-ons.
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Doug, then after battle there would be less to clean up........
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So there is always curve-balls thrown at us ship-modelers, and this ball at the stern has really got me going. For a while I was on my own creating my own boom sheet buffer. But I couldn't get it right so I stayed with the metal piece provided in the kit. However, the legs weren't long enough to have them sticking down into the deck as the plans were showing. Again, the think hat had to come on. And this is the outcome. Some extra sanding is needed and final painting too. Oh, I had to add some extra material on top of the side parts as they were shorter than the stern piece.
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Doug, I am okay with it, the nibbling was a challenge and with the varnish the flaws are showing up.
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While I am waiting for varnish to dry on Bluenose I tried out the red colors I have available. I think I found my red color. It's the one to the right, I will make a try of mixing them as well. Could probably turn out nice.
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So I tried various varnishes for my deck on separate planks. Fell for one that enhanced just a notch, here is the fore-deck still wet. I think together with the grey waterway and white inside of waist and stanchions it will turn out okay. This is a lighter varnish, and maybe gives me a chance to make it darker if I like.
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Derek, thanks that makes me feel better.
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Mike, I don't know about the new sails..... little to bright in my opinion, I do like the original as it gives some character to the Brigantine.... but it seems that the restoration is coming along nicely.
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Floyd, great update regarding the Syren..... I like the story from the last weekend. Sorry that nobody understood that Syren is powered by the wind.
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Hmm, so it seems that my bluenose got a little fat stern area... Nothing that can be fixed. First I checked the laser piece towards the plan, and found it accurate. Well, placing the piece on the ship and I saw she was wider than I thought, must be all the ice cream consumed while modeling When doing so having the main rail part on the stanchions, I can have it flush with the waist without any overhang, but this will give her a large lip instead. My solution and this was the easy way out instead of making a whole new piece. I made two cuts into the part, and then will create fill pieces. Once painted only I will know along with everybody else following this thread. This way there won't be a lip but also I will get the overhang I am looking for. Pictures are exaggerated.
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Maury, As I read your last posting, and looked at the background..... the masts are surely plumbed. If you wouldn't had mentioned about the window, I would had said something about it. Looks nice.
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Mike, Where I work we have a display for our company's small gifts, when I realized maybe I should look up the length of Confederacy. Total length of her is 35" the display we have is 40" and it's huge!' I have no idea where to put such a display. Fortunate she is not carrying full rigging!
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Getting closer to final "dressing" of the stern planking. The planking is certainly in need of putty and sanding to get that smooth surface Bluenose is in need of.
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Gary, very nice pictures. Something interesting I am seeing though in the last picture with the masts is the rake. I did experience the same thing as the distance where the mast are setting in the deck versus the top of the masts. Maybe it's an illusion in your picture and the distances are the same. But for me the distance are different, it's not much but it's noticeable.
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