Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
Nirvana
-
Posts
5,360 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Nirvana
-
Laying out plans in a smaller workshop
Nirvana replied to alde's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Al, why not take the plans to a copying place, then you have one set original and one you can cut into pieces along the way. -
Patience and slowly, but progress is being made. I will paint the brass before putting in place permanently.
-
My HobbyTown store is also located 45 minutes away. But worth the drive, as I can see the paint before buying.
-
A quick update, I am now into the detailing before rigging, with other words - dead eye manufacturing. I followed the instructions of not gluing or soldering. Kind of tricky with all loose parts but very rewarding. The material is black wire from the build of the Longboat. Unfortunate I ran out before all is made. Michaels Craft (the big chain) has material for continuation so I will be fine. The black looks better than the brass. So far I have assembled 12 of the 16 big deadeyes, still have to make the four small ones. As you see I haven't made any wholes in the chain plates. Dry-fitting of parts are always good. Gives me a good indication of where adjustments are needed. In order to get the holes done, I am working on chain-plate at the time. First getting the length right, then round the bottom off. Using clear tape on the plans I lifted the hole patterns. Before any drilling, I taped the "plates" down using masking tape. Applied the strip with hole pattern. With an awl and a hammer I transferred the holes before starting drilling. This way the drill won't wander of the part. I am hand drilling the holes.
-
Brian, Why didn't you just buy regular base colors, you are going to spend so much time on mixing along with the loss of paint. Any hobby store has the colors you need even for air brushing.
-
Brian, Bluenose is the first model I have airbrushed.
-
Brian, according to the forecast you have perfect air brush conditions as your high's should be in low to mid 80's and humidity at 0% as mine will be in the mid 60's and humidity at 40%. But before you airbrush Blue, do many trials on separate parts not attached to Blue.
-
So crisp and clean! Do you pre-treat your wood?
-
I have had some monkey time, Sometimes parts aren't matching at all and then once you have a matching one it breaks. At the very end I got what I wanted, my monkey board and monkey rail in place. It took some trial and error in this matter, but again I am please with the outcome. I am to do some final touches with this part before I call it good. Forgot to mention but I reduced the rail of the monkey to half the height. The original parts made her look "chunky". Now I am to focus on the Buffalo area.
-
As for ME paint, they can't be diluted for air brushing. Go with paint from HobbyTown or other hobbystore.
-
Sorry, for not posting anything lately. The shipyard came to a stand still for some time. However, every time I go out to the garage I am met by Bluenose asking for attention. After spending the day with the Admiral and Sadie (our oldest dog), I got time with Blue...... The monkey board has been installed and now is the rail time. As before the rail has to be altered, the laser cut piece was to small and then I realized that the empty space became the perfect base for a new rail. After cutting out the new piece I saw it's slightly to large, just perfect. This will help me to create the part I need. To make it easier on me, I am making this in two parts. Before final sanding and shaping I will pre-treat the wood for painting.
-
Brian. take a look at my build and you will see the adjustment I had to make. Mine was just minor, I have no idea what you have done in the construction of your stern area.
-
Sorry for our foul language....
-
Williamo, It does a F360 does a great job. F360 is a cloud based program, takes less space on your 'puter so it does saves automatically. Here is a great link for you.
-
Congrats to a beautiful finished yacht!
-
For awhile I thought "how am I gonna get a nice monkey curve"...... Well I had cut my planks, and trimmed the end. Then it hit me while looking at the whole picture - "I have that curve already" This time I used the old soaking technique with moisture and let it dry clamped to the stanchions. The out come was as I expected. Next will be sanding - sanding - painting - painting and maybe another layer of paint. I have to say I really like the Valejo paint, as the paint can be applied in layers without showing signs of being thick.
-
Derek, I lifted the part from the plans..... I attached 2" wide clear tape on top of the plan, then used a second layer tape to trace the part. This way I was able to lift the part as according to plan. See my page 7 as most of the main rail construction is located there. Thanks for asking for help........ I might be the next one to ask ......
-
You should have 4 plank strips 1/2" wide in the kit. Those are for the main rail. The widest part on my plans for the main rail measures 5/16, where we have the belaying pins. Your plans might be off in measures.
-
That looks so much better. Before you add that piece you have some extra part to add on underneath. Look at the plans.
-
It was tricky to shape the monkey board at the stern but I was able yo do it without breaking the wood strip. Here I used a combination of hot water and heat from air gun but also my fingers. Put it in place to dry out and to get the final shape.
-
Well the main cap rail is now installed. As I mentioned before, the stern became a little to "fat", so some adjustments were needed. But I think I have covered the main gap fairly well. She got 3mm wider in total, once painted I think it will be hard to tell. With little more white and it will be hard to tell.
-
I see two issues you have run into, the transom build up is to thick, take a second look at the plans and you will see that the perpendicular planks are to visible. Doing has change the location of the main sheet boom buffer. Secondly I think it looks like the aft deck stanchions are little to high. The bigger unit should align with the waist. Hope this didn't add on with to much work. You are doing a great job. The cap rail is to have a slight lip over the transom.
-
Very nice, and the background does it better thanks to the Ludwig set!
- 90 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- syren
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
