Nirvana
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Congrats to a beautiful finished yacht! -
For awhile I thought "how am I gonna get a nice monkey curve"...... Well I had cut my planks, and trimmed the end. Then it hit me while looking at the whole picture - "I have that curve already" This time I used the old soaking technique with moisture and let it dry clamped to the stanchions. The out come was as I expected. Next will be sanding - sanding - painting - painting and maybe another layer of paint. I have to say I really like the Valejo paint, as the paint can be applied in layers without showing signs of being thick.
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Derek, I lifted the part from the plans..... I attached 2" wide clear tape on top of the plan, then used a second layer tape to trace the part. This way I was able to lift the part as according to plan. See my page 7 as most of the main rail construction is located there. Thanks for asking for help........ I might be the next one to ask ......
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You should have 4 plank strips 1/2" wide in the kit. Those are for the main rail. The widest part on my plans for the main rail measures 5/16, where we have the belaying pins. Your plans might be off in measures.
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That looks so much better. Before you add that piece you have some extra part to add on underneath. Look at the plans.
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It was tricky to shape the monkey board at the stern but I was able yo do it without breaking the wood strip. Here I used a combination of hot water and heat from air gun but also my fingers. Put it in place to dry out and to get the final shape.
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Well the main cap rail is now installed. As I mentioned before, the stern became a little to "fat", so some adjustments were needed. But I think I have covered the main gap fairly well. She got 3mm wider in total, once painted I think it will be hard to tell. With little more white and it will be hard to tell.
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I see two issues you have run into, the transom build up is to thick, take a second look at the plans and you will see that the perpendicular planks are to visible. Doing has change the location of the main sheet boom buffer. Secondly I think it looks like the aft deck stanchions are little to high. The bigger unit should align with the waist. Hope this didn't add on with to much work. You are doing a great job. The cap rail is to have a slight lip over the transom.
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Very nice, and the background does it better thanks to the Ludwig set!
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- syren
- model shipways
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Had my Sunday all to myself, some fiddling and trimming and now the main rail is in place. Really pleased with the result. All the parts fit to a majority, some filling was necessary. This auto-putty is a pleasure to work with. But takes some extra paint cover to the connection areas.
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David, Beautiful build and great attention to details, makes a model more "alive". Your experience of building "doll houses" is really paying off.
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Trying out my new 9 dollar camera. I can see a lot of potential use of this camera, which I can use both with my PC ( no issues at all with connection, Windows 10 recognized it directly) and my android. None of the pictures are edited. And here is the camera itself.
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Work your Amati America first......
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Work your Amati America first......
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Additional three pieces for the rail was attached this evening. Using Titebond II and heat from my hand, the part set hard and fast. Even though I made scarf joint, they are now hidden under the new putty.
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Blown away! Wow!
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Waist inside has gotten the second coating of white. The waterways was painted with Valejo sky grey. It gave the deck and white a nice contrast. First part of the mainrail was glued into place. Here it's important to make a solid contact all the way. I don't want to see any light showing through with the waist.
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Prudencio, Warm welcome to MSW. Please introduce yourself in English. It doesn't have to perfect english.
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Long time ago my son was into Warhammer game, so we went to buy some characters for him. A little project we did together, mostly him. But in the box with brushes and dried paint I found this three piece set of files. The grit is good enough for wood as well, which was really helpful to finalize the opening. The files can be found in any hobby store selling Warhammer game characters. From top to bottom; coarse, medium and fine grit. A tool I like to recommend to all modelers.
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Moment was to remove tape and reveal the damage. There is more trimming to do, but so far so good. Haha, looks like I caught myself a fish...... It's a blowfish
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It took some effort and meditation before I put the drill into waist for the hawse. Port side is being worked on, using my home made template (masking tape) I worked slowly. According to the plans the hole going through should have 2.5mm diameter. I may open it little more to insert a tube, which is not necessary. Doing so, I have been able to create an opening that I feel okay with. It will be interesting to see how bad it is after removing the tape.
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Getting the hawse pipe opening is a tricky part. Here the two britttania pieces are mirrored and on top of that, several angles involved. Attaching blue masking tape to the waist, I measured 30mm on the plans and transferred the measurement to the tape. This would mark the aft part of the metal part. Next was to measure the top and bottom of the opening for the hawse pipe. Using the metal piece I traced inside of the part. I did the starboard which is on the plans. Doing the port side was a little trickier. But at the end I got the second opening right. Looking at the stem it looks like Bluenose has gotten eyes. Now I have the delicate job of drilling the hole for the "eyes".
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Here is the link to the carronades. Now if they could printed in metal that would be even better. For another $5.50 you can get the higher detailed frosted version. Probably better for flat black painting.
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Floyd, add a direct link to his caronades. That would be helpful.
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