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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nirvana
    Seems like ModelExpo removed all the goodies like practicum(manual) and related plans for their kits, I found out because I wanted to download the material list for one of the kits. This as I like to have another copy or pre-copy before ordering.
  2. Nirvana
    Number five was the correct size for me. Guessing printers varies a lot, as the supposed black for me didn't come out black even at the highest and best settings. It got a dark green/greyish tone. However, the pdf version is much much better than the provided in the kit. Both with the resolution and pigments. Chuck, thank you very much for providing a much better solution for us.
  3. Nirvana
    There is a very nice review of Jim and Donna Byrnes machines available at this site
  4. Nirvana
    George, First of all, a very warm to A forum where all questions old as new will be answered. There is an on-going discussion regarding this in the following topic, Please read this topic, which I think you will find very rewarding. Personally, still not an owner, the Byrnes table saw is the way to go, yes you will spend more money but the tolerance and accuracy, along with future value of machine speaks for itself. Buy cheap and repeat it, buy Expensive and keep it!
  5. Nirvana
    Shop vac I like to get, price wise not bad at all...... the little bigger brother only 50 dollars more. And much quieter than regular vacuum machine.
  6. Nirvana
    Beautiful job, I am about to add the cap rails to mine. Debating between MS paint and Vallejo paint.......
  7. Nirvana
    I think I stay with the modern world tools to a certain degree....... thank goodness
  8. Nirvana
    Roman, Scratch building by using our teeth? That would be something new.....
  9. Nirvana
    David, Being a Swedish-American I have my set of Mora knifes, but I haven't used them for modeling carving. Love those knifes, and yes they stay sharp for long time even with excessive usage. Perfect to have around when working in the yard.
  10. Nirvana
    Jack, I understand your issue, but I think if I would measure it out on my plans I would get a different size. Hope you understand what I try to say, the tolerances are so fine, work it the way you feel best and looks best for your longboat. Cheers
  11. Nirvana
    An anti-cut glove for USD 20-50 is certainly a very cheap insurance, versus all the other issues that otherwise can happen.
  12. Nirvana
    Cap rails with "extra meat" according to instructions. The basswood is easier to work with than boxwood. As you see I have a lot of wood to reduce, but better to much and re-doing it. The opening for the stem will be reduced to have a flush connection.
  13. Nirvana
    David, It is a curved shaped.......
  14. Nirvana
    While I have been sanding the frames, I took on the delicate thing..... cap rail. I did three trial with the boxwood and each resulted with broken pieces. Due to the curves it was easier to do the cap rail with the bass wood. When "cutting" the cap rail out from the sheet, use blade #22. Cap rail done!! :D
  15. Nirvana
    Matti, that is just beautiful! I am so glad to see a true Wasa master.
  16. Nirvana
    Take a look at my topic of Japanese saw. I wrote this one back in 2013. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4171-japanese-saw/
  17. Nirvana
    I like this little boat. It's a fun and great project. Thank you Chuck for creating this model!
  18. Nirvana
    Using the Dremel idea from other builders of reducing the frames I cautiously started the project. Here I noticed the frames are very thick. There is a lot of wood to reduce. Then I thought why not use the soft head from Dremel, I cut out a slightly larger piece from regular sandpaper ( I used 320grit ), having the soft head. It became easier to sand the curves of frames. I wondered how much "meat" from the frames on the inside needed to be sanded out, here I used the caliper and set it to 3/32" which is according to the instructions and marked each frame. There is a lot to sand down.
  19. Nirvana
    I haven't sanded down the frames nor the keel, meanwhile I did make a copy of the plans and cut out the cap rail as for a dummy. This just to get an idea how it will look like. The rap rail in the plans are correct and I can use the cut-out as a template for making the rail.
  20. Nirvana
    Oldpaperone, glad to see you back at the building table. I also lile the usage of wooden cloth pins and wooden screws. Very genious!
  21. Nirvana
    The solids towards the stem I found to be tricky to get leveled. First I used the Dremel (again!), then I used the fine tooth razor blade sized saw to do the rest. 10 minutes later I had it in my hand (ok, rather on my finger) This without damaging the stem piece. Btw, this is a funny little boat to build. It has it's challenges but at the same time, once beyond one point lot of things happens. I am leveling all the ribs to the plank and thinking what to do with the inner hull..... colorwise
  22. Nirvana
    Ribs and keel will be trimmed internally once the top heads are leveled with the plank.
  23. Nirvana
    Using the new light-weight Dremel 8050 the reducing of the head was a breeze without touching the planks. Now fine filing to get them to level for the cap rail.
  24. Nirvana
    Cutting away the bulkhead notches was something I didn't look forward to. But using the new "type" of razor blade saw the cut is almost like laser cut. The blade itself is 1 1/2" long. In this picture it look huge.
  25. Nirvana
    A long time has elapsed since I started the log, however today I am uploading the very latest pics, work has been done during the day. The hull was fully planked earlier this week. I had to do some mod's as I noticed some of the planks didn't attach fully to the bulkheads. All is CA glued. The bulkhead support (coffee stirrer from a famous coffee chain) was cut into parts by the new Dremel Micro 8050 The machine itself is really nice to work with, it's re-chargeable Li-On batteries charges fast and it's easy to hold (low weight) General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is the poly wipe on I am using. I didn't even bother to let it dry the slow way, I used the hair dryer. Some extra light sanding I and I should be ready for painting.

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