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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nirvana
    Vallejo and Humbrol paint is my two cents Vallejo for it's extreme good coverage for airbrushing. Humbrol for it's extreme good coverage with regular brush. But again, just my two cents.
  2. Nirvana
    Thank you Chuck, I will certainly have you in mind, besides the blocks and other items I have purchased from you are out of this world. Amazing with other words.
  3. Nirvana
    This thread gave me an idea. I know that Woodcraft (only in America), has laser cutter in their workshop classroom. As I am about to pay them a visit in near future, I will ask if they would help me and to what cost they would help me to get parts laser cut. I know their machine takes the DWG/DWF- along with CDR-files. If they do, I think there could be some great savings as a laser cutter won't be used to such extent that you will save any money. As Chuck stated his machine was at 5500 dollars. That's a lot of laser cutting using some one else, with a pro-machine. Ps. Just because this machine from MM could be a dangerous shouldn't stop one from shopping from them. They have lots of other items to great prices.
  4. Nirvana
    Mike, I add my little contribution as well the combination of the mini-vac with air brush compressor. Pressure setting is around 60 psi, good enough to remove the dust but nothing else. I use this this feature and it works well. Good luck to find your solution.
  5. Nirvana
    Augie, I am still amazed, what you are doing and the way you are presenting this log will surely help everyone who will build Confederacy. Certainly me, once I get to her.
  6. Nirvana
    So I did a cover paint job with the first line, this paint comes easily off. Saw the line way to low. This is painted and then adjusted line. And this with a white base before sanding and painting white color.
  7. Nirvana
    Puckotred, nice development and progress. That light lifts the whole ship to another level.
  8. Nirvana
    I got tired of trying to get the waterline done with pencil. Didn't seem to get it right, so I approached it with eye sight and tape. This is the first try.
  9. Nirvana
    I have a hard getting waterline correct, feels like I get it to low. I did use regular pencil, taking the distance from the cap rail on plans and transferred. Had the boat leveled and had the pen set on a wood block to draw the line. See attached picture, and please guide me to get this right.
  10. Nirvana
    I would warmly suggest MS Bluenose, I have this kit waiting for the keel to be laid. It's a great second kit and first kit for planking. A warm
  11. Nirvana
    After adding the stern post I used a steel ruler to compare angle with transom and post. Hmm, sure enough there was an even gap of 1mm. Another filler (trimmed) glued in place and some extra sanding and it will be good.
  12. Nirvana
    And here the frieze is in position but not glued.
  13. Nirvana
    Rub strake in place with clamps.
  14. Nirvana
    Just a picture revealing the white paint job done to the cap rail and rub strakes.
  15. Nirvana
    Looking good Burnside, S/S Mariefred is a little ship. I was thinking about the "light leakage" you were worried about. Now it's to late but one idea that came to mind was to black paint the interior of the hull, or carefully use expansion foam. Another way to had done this would had been using blue insulation foam (not to cover everything) between the bulkheads, see attached picture. This was a quick draft I did in SketchUp 2015 Pro
  16. Nirvana
    I think others has mentioned it already, but I would suggest to paint the white side of the cap rail and the molding underneath the frieze, before attaching the frieze. This way you will have a clean frieze once installing it.
  17. Nirvana
    Cap rail and inner-board painted! First layer and I like it as the grain of basswood (just the cap rail) is coming through.
  18. Nirvana
    For painting the inboard plank (to second down) I choose (after several test) Valejo RED RLM 23. This particular paint is intended for air brushing but turned out very nice with regular brush too. I like it because it's not bright red, but of it's natural dirt red. This is the first layer, some 600 grit sanding and another layer and I think I have the color I want. Second picture shows the brush I been using, made the mistake using a regular one in the beginning,
  19. Nirvana
    Using the compass to get the 3/32" width I trailed from the outside, creating the sanding line. Using the caliper I am very close to the correct measurements, some extra sanding might be needed. The connection of starboard and port cap rail at the stem is an area I am happy with. So far I am satisfied with the out come. Still there is a lot of wood fuzz I need to get rid off. Basswood is not a friend of mine when it comes to sanding. Painting is getting close.
  20. Nirvana
    Augie, your build log is going to help me tremendously, once I get going with my conf. Thank you for all the great pictures. Superb job you have done.
  21. Nirvana
    The shaping of the cap rail especially at the stem area is a slow work. Wonder if anyone has come up with an ingenious way to have them shaped the same?
  22. Nirvana
    Burnside, I am afraid the foil will give to much reflections from your light source unless you dim it. Why not try to attach the floor to the cabin, so when removing the cabin you take the floor along with it? When my father built the Bohuslän he made alternation. Just my two cents. Btw, my head office (for work) is located where you are.
  23. Nirvana
    So, it turned out that the conversion chart provided with my new digital caliber (birthday gift) is wrong. All the numbers are correct down to 3/64 vs. the metric, no wonder I thought the 0.04 seemed a bit off. 1/64" is equal to 0.3967 (not 0.03967 according to the chart) or easier measured 0.4mm I am glad I found out before I didn't have any cap rail lip left.
  24. Nirvana
    Holy moly, Sanding the cap rail and for them to have an 1/64" ( 0.04mm) lip, that is almost next to nothing visible. I think the frieze has the same thickness.
  25. Nirvana
    After many adjustments with the starboard cap rail (and yes I didn't get it right towards the stem, still there is a gap) I have the rail in place. The connection between port and starboard is almost invisible.

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