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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nirvana
    I am behind schedule, according to my planning the cap rail should had been attached and with hull painted. Anyway, I am back at the yard, hopefully some work will be done this weekend as there is no important football going on. Don't know if I went against my better judgement but I decided to attach the cap rail before doing any painting. Here the port side with "lots of extra meat" has been "white glued" into place. Very little of the wood of the cap rail at the stem will be trim to fit the starboard side. Hopefully I will be able to create a "seamless area".
  2. Nirvana
    Ps. I have been trying to find a Dremel work table for a long time!
  3. Nirvana
    Augie, First of all..... just amazing! This is to both of you Augie and Chuck, is there any way to open the deck to reveal the interior of captains cabin? However, I guess both of you have considered this matter already.
  4. Nirvana
    Farbor Fartyg, First of all, a late Happy New Year - ett sent Gott Nytt År! I am so glad to see you back at this setting. I know how it is being away from the "yard" for a while, then coming back..... looking at it, taking a deep breath and letting out the same deep sigh. At the same being re-inspired and getting into it. Looking forward the see more..... of the wreck in deep.
  5. Nirvana
    Divarty, Thank you for the question. No, the inners will first be painted then the cap rail will be attached. This way I have the risers their "shape", while doing the rest. Thinking that having the risers done prior painting and cap rail would ease the later installation. If it works then I am happy. Pictures will tell.
  6. Nirvana
    Here are the two risers profile drying, the lighter one (on the port) is almost dry.
  7. Nirvana
    Before I red paint the inners, I wanted to create the Risers, (I scribed them, accordingly to instructions) my scribing wasn't as close to the edge as Chucks' but I am happy with the outcome. I used the metal ruler and my extreme fine teeth saw to create the line, I was able to go over it three times, then I cleaned it out with a light touch of blade #11. It's amazing how the picture still reveal wood in the grooves. Scribing comes first, then after the soaking I placed the riser to shape it along the inside of the frames.
  8. Nirvana
    I am satisfied with the installation of the floorboards, using model needles for spacing got them tighter but still with a visible gap. The distance is the same on both side. Minimal sanding was needed as the floor boards had been adjusted before.
  9. Nirvana
    Jim, We will never get tired of questions, even repeated ones...... Dremel is good as stated before me, but hand tools is in many ways better, as you will have a feeling of how much you are reducing. As you will reduce so much less. I am using a combo of both, but not for keel. However, the latest Dremel Micro can do real low rpm's which makes it more controllable. If you are not used to such a power tool you can create more harm than greatness. Good luck
  10. Nirvana
    Oh, I forgot to mention that the boards should be sanded down in thickness at both ends. This will create an even end along with the keelson. It's not mention in the instructions but visible on the plans.
  11. Nirvana
    The last two floor boards were shaped (tapered) at the same time to get the same uniform shape.
  12. Nirvana
    Spaceman Spiff, Found another update, The quality of the paint is the same, still manufactured in Japan but runs under the name of GSI Creos - Gunze Sangyo. There are some companies in the US selling their products today. The former company stopped the shipment of their product due to decrease of sale. (read Tamiya's) aggressive marketing along with Testor. Somehow the production was directed to the European/Australian and Japanese market for a long time, but are now back in the USA. The hobbystore chain I am referring to is HobbyTown, I don't know if it is up to each owner to decide what brands to carry but I doubt it. HobbyTown is big and has probably pulled some strings.
  13. Nirvana
    I had the interior wiped with poly. This one comes from General finishes, While waiting for drying I did a test with the Valejo Red RLM23 see the strip to the left. I like the color as it has both a bright but also a little dirty tone to it. This is the color I chosen for the cap rail and the 12mm paint job on the inside. The first starboard floorboard has been shaped (slightly tapered) then soaked for 20 minutes. Using clamps with rubber head (no marking) I clamped the board down using pins for spacing. This way I got the shape of the bent until it is time for gluing. Realized that doing this before adding the cap rail has it's advantages.
  14. Nirvana
    Mark, Seems like it is the top-notch when it comes to paint. There are two versions of the paint, one acrylic and one lacquer based. This is what I found so far. Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Japan was early to adopt acrylic paints in modelling, and Gunze Sangyo has been in the forefront of the development. Gunze Sangyo Aqueous colours are still some of the finest flowing acrylic airbrush paints available. Thinning may be accomplished with either isopropyl alcohol or Gunze thinner, both producing super-thin, smooth coats. The solvent based is called Mr Color.
  15. Nirvana
    Since last year I have been using and purchasing Valejo paint from my local hobby store. I like the paint as it has a high pigment. Now the store has decided to go with a new brand by the name of Mr. Color This after many request from other shoppers. When searching the web I haven't been able to find any link to the manufacturer themselves. The store is to drop the Valejo line in favor of Mr Color, so my question is: Does anyone have any experience of this paint? Does it hold the quality of Valejo?
  16. Nirvana
    Burnside, Here is the link to the real one, she is still steaming strong in Lake Mälaren.
  17. Nirvana
    Jack, you certainly did a nice save and not giving up. You should be proud of the result.
  18. Nirvana
    Keelson in place. After previous shaping I used CA to glue it down. At the end I didn't have any air gap between the keel and keelson, so all the tedious sanding had its great final result.
  19. Nirvana
    With the boxwood replacement from Jeff at HobbyMill I cut the keelson, soaked it for 20 minutes and thereafter pinned it down to the keel. It's not glued into place, this is only for shaping. The darker shade at the starboard aft side is poly-wipe-on. So easy to remove when not wanted, or painted over if needed. When removed the wood gets a natural luster.
  20. Nirvana
    Matti, I beginn wishing you Gott Nytt Ar. Wasa turned out amazing. A true masterpiece. I understand the mixed feelings. How are you keep her protected while building the case?
  21. Nirvana
  22. Nirvana
    John, From the East side of the same state, a very warm I am about to enter the journey of building the MS Bluenose, I am awaiting deck planking from HobbyMill. As far as hull planking I am sticking with the basswood coming with the kit. Deck will get a combo of boxwood and maple. So I am looking forward to see what you are coming up with. :)
  23. Nirvana
    Shaping the frames towards the end I have used a tool that I found at HobbyTown store, I found them (three in one set, #220 #400 and #800) useful specially with its curved edges. This way I won't get stuck on any of the frames and dislocating any. I have also used one of them on the inside of the planks to get a smoother finish. I was also thinking of painting the red part of inner hull before adding the cap rail.
  24. Nirvana
    Steve, Being a former drummer I understand the collection of "odd" things we can have laying around. That's a nice use of the grommets. Are you going to do some fills where the small grooves are in the grommets? Ha, , fills and grooves two terms used in music as well...... :)
  25. Nirvana
    I bought a sample pack of veneer from Woodcraft (in store), over 20 assorted domestic and exotic species, altogether 20 sq.ft. Each sheet 12" long various width 5.5" to 7.5". Price USD 31.50. The sample pack will be part of a wood reference binder. The best with the sample, I can definitely tell what wood is useful (fine grain) and not. Thickness is 0.5mm

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