Shotlocker

Allan,
I will certainly do that and try one of those hoagies if they still have 'em.
 
 

Good grief! I had to keep closing my dropped jaw - just...wow.

Good grief! I had to keep closing my dropped jaw - just...wow.

Ahoy Mates, Here's my Mary Rose 95% scratch built using just the bulkheads from the Jotika kit.

I continue to build a model of the cruiser.
    Assembling the aft bridge.
 

Thanks to everyone who is interested in my work.  
 
The cruiser wheelhouse.

And a few more pictures along with the navigating bridge.

Well, Eric, I'm a bit chagrined...I saw the box cover art at the beginning of your build log and my mind said, "1/96th scale", so I didn't pay attention to any
background bits in your photos until this morning when I noticed some significant differences in the stern details of your model as compared to mine. Then
I saw the ship sitting on an open book. Sheesh. My bad.
 
Anyway, as for painting fine lines and strips, all I can advise is to use a very fine artists brush with a steady hand and perhaps some magnification. And practice!
I usually cut the rigging lines with nail clippers if I can reach the spot with them, otherwise I use a very sharp no. 11 blade. I also often tie knots using tweezers.
Hope this helps.

Hello friends.
Look in my little model ship museum.
Karl
 
PART 37
 
 
 
 

Hello friends,
thanks to all who accompanied me during the construction
of the CHEBECE with their friendly comments and likes.
Karl
 
PART 36

Thanks for the kind comments.
 
Cut in the deck for a view into Officer's cabin.
 
Karl

 
 

Cannons ready assembled.
Karl
 
Part 32

Scientific American, December 1884. The cover illustrates the 'ship railway' that would have been a cheaper alternative to the Panama Canal. Think of the fun we modelers would have had with this!
 

 

I spotted this strange little vessel in Falmouth harbour earlier this year:

With her square rig and a line of portholes painted in a checkerboard pattern mimicking the gunports on a man of war, I thought she must either be a rich person's modern toy or perhaps a film prop. However I found she was called the Marjorie and she's well over 100 years old.
 
According to the National Historic Ships UK website she was built in 1913 as a motor-powered ketch by David Munroe and Sons of Blairmore on the River Clyde, possibly for an Air Commodore Upfill-Brown. After being requisitioned for service as a Thames River patrol boat during the First World War she was eventually bought in 1938 by Vice Admiral Richard Bell Davies who had her converted to a brig with two new masts in 1939. His motives for the conversion aren't known, but Bell Davies is a notable figure for several reasons - he was among the last cadets to be trained under sail, one of the first naval pilots (he joined the Royal Naval Air Service the year Marjorie was built) and one of only four to be awarded the Victoria Cross.  He was awarded the latter for what has been described as the first known instance of the rescue of a downed pilot behind enemy lines. He picked up a fellow pilot under heavy fire and got them both safely back to base. His single-seater cockpit was such a tight squeeze he had to push his comrade into a tiny space beyond his foot controls - it took two hours to extract him! From 1917 he was heavily involved in aircraft carrier development and was the first man to land on a carrier-proper (as opposed to a converted warship). I expect this might spark some debate, but I checked the claim in several sources. He was actually sailing Marjorie in summer 1939 when he received his joining instructions from the Admiralty and he did not see her again until 1945. She has remained in the Bell Davies family ever since.
 
Here's a picture of this fine little brig under sail:

Derek

Much better a small space than none at all!

Much better a small space than none at all!

A Billings Nordkap R/C finishing boat. A ladies husband recently passed away while working on this kit. I was asked if I would accept it and finish it, which I humbly agreed to do. I was not only humbled, but honored that I would be asked to do so. I will strive to make his vision for this model a reality and make her all se can be.
I have several projects going, but couldn't say no, nor did I want to.  
 

PILLAR DRILL : A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
 
WIRE WHEEL : Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t'
 
PLIERS : Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
 
BELT SANDER : An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
 
HACKSAW : One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
 
MOLE GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
 
OXYACETYLENE TORCH : Used almost entirely for  setting on fire various flammable objects in your workshop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race..
 
HYDRAULIC JACK : Used for lowering a car to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
 
BAND SAW : A large stationary power saw primarily used by most people  to cut good metal sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the bin after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
 
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST : A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
 
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER : Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to  butcher Phillips screw heads.
 
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER : A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
 
PRY BAR: See Screwdriver
 
HAMMER : Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit.
 
STANLEY  KNIFE : Used to open and slice through the contents of parcels delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
 
ADJUSTABLE SPANNER aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench".  Commonly used as one size fits all, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers.  Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in injury ,swearing and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity.
 
BASTARD TOOL : Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling  BASTARD at the top of your voice . It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

At long last, it’s happening! 
 
After some enthusiastic petitioning by Kazunori Morikawa, myself, and others to the Japanese wooden model kit maker Woody Joe, it appears that the company is now developing the prototype for an Atakebune model kit. 
 
For those who didn't already know, there were three major classes of warships used by the Japanese feudal armies of the warring states period: The large Atakebune, the medium-sized Sekibune or Hayabune, and smaller Kobaya.
 
The Atakebune were boxy-looking, lumbering ships that were effectively floating fortresses. While they were equipped with one large mast and square sail, as well as a  single bank of oars, they were often towed by the smaller warships.
 
Woody Joe just announced development work is under way. The new model is 1/100 scale, and it’s only a prototype, so we won’t know if it’s going to go into production yet. I’m a bit disappointed that the model is not 1/72 scale, as that scale would then match Woody Joe’s Higaki Kaisen and Kitamaebune kits, plus it would then be compatible with 1/72 samurai figures that are currently available. However, a 1/72 scale model would almost 40% larger than a 1/100 scale model. And, considering these were large ships, that would be a fairly big kit that might be harder for company to manufacture. Also, such a large model may be less appealing in Japan, which is their primary market.
 
\
 
By the looks of the photo they posted, they are actually working on a model that resembles the model at the Nagoya Castle Museum, which is on Kyushu, Japan's souther most and western most of the four main islands. The museum model is based on an old painting, also in the museum. In a follow-up post, Woody Joe confirmed that they've been working with the museum staff in developing this model.
 
This is great news, as I'd asked my contact at Woody Joe about the possibility of such a model kit last year, and they'd indicated that they had considered the idea before, but felt they could not do it, as there was not enough firm information about these ships.
 
I don't know if I made any difference, but I did suggest that they didn't have to do all the research from scratch and that they should consider designing a kit based on one of the many existing museum models. That's what they're doing, so it's a model of a model, which I think makes for a perfectly valid subject. I'm very happy to see they've reconsidered and have made such great progress.
 
Here's a photo of the 1/10-scale model in the Nagoya Castle Museum, courtesy of Kazunori Morikawa of Zootoyz.jp. This Atakebune is identified as the Nihon Maru, built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

 
No idea what the cost will be, but I don't expect it will be cheap. It's a lot of structural material, I would think. Plus, there are castle-like structures and details on top. Given that the coastal transport kits are around $250, I'm guessing this will be around $500, maybe more depending on how much detail they put into it.
 
Of course, they're likely to make some simplifications to keep the difficulty and costs down to make it more marketable.
 
Here's to hoping it goes into production in the near future!
 
 

Hello,  I am a new member to this site, thank you for admitting me. I have always been interested in ships and sailing ships in particular. Part of my interest was created when as a kid in the early 60's while on a trip thru the White Mountains of Arizona my family came across a pile of books in the middle of a lonely stretch of highway. All the books were on the subject of sailing ships. They were in a pile in the middle of the road so my parents stopped to pick them up. In the mix was a copy of an apparent unfinished manuscript with the above title. There was no cover and no indication of the author anywhere. It lists 40+ ships with very technical information on their rigging. Corrections and editing were done in red ink and pencil. I have kept it with me all these decades and have occasionally tried to search the title for any info but never have. On this site I see there was an author/illustrator named Harold Underhill.  It is just a wild shot but I was wondering if this was meant for him.  The manuscript is spiral bound with the name M&H Valve and Fitting Co.  It has around 75 pages left in it and is now yellow with age. All the printing was by hand. It has chapters starting with why the book was compiled, Miscellaneous data, (including gun dimensions),speed and wind data, Types of sailing ships and mostly information and diagrams of Tackle, Sails and Rigging. These are very in depth descriptions of rigging for specific ships.   There is some editing by hand in some of the pages. I always thought it would be important to people who are involved with such and would like it to go to someone/place who would appreciate it.  Sorry for the long winded letter.  It may be that  this is not important at this time, but any advise would be appreciated. Thank you for the chance to research this.

Thanks all, done now! Off to the digital library 

Ron,
That's some remarkably fine soldering  you've done - what method do you use...resistance? Torch? Very nice work!

Pretty much done, I’ll look at it with fresh eyes tomorrow 

Cats pretty much done for now.