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Everything posted by AON
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Just did a google search and Iroko does seem to have tiny white streaks in it.... and I did develop a couple small rashes after working with it. At first I thought it might be Teak by which it is aka African Teak although it is not teak. The attached google photo is somewhat darker than my piece but I am going to assume this is what it is until something more convincing comes along. Thanks again!
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Thank you all. I will look up Iroko as I've never heard of it before. The small piece of this mystery wood (Adhmad Rúndiamhair) that I was given seems to have been reclaimed from a piece of furniture (my guess). I have heard back from the two wood suppliers I deal with ( Exotic Woods in Burlington, Ontario and McQueen Custom Cuts which is nearer to me and supplies to local business and wood carvers), and neither have a clue as to what this might be. I certainly hope it is not a fungus. It doesn't seem to be. As for protection from wood dust, I always wear my dust mask (with HEPA Filters) and eye protection. I am constantly concerned for my eyes now ( Cataracts for which I recently had surgery, and Branch Retinal Vein Occlusion caused by Macular Edema for which I've been getting injections in my left eye for the last 4 years), and my Father-in-law worked at a lumber yard for 30 years which gifted him with COPD in his retirement years.
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from google search: Unbleached Titanium White is a warm beige tinted white. This oil paint can be used to lighten colors with a different effect than regular whites.
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I have been given a very small quantity of wood (one piece 1" x 4" x 12" or 25.4 x 101 x 305mm) and I haven't a clue what it is. Can anyone help me identify it. it is a more dark than light shade of brown, with short streaks of white in it. The surface was stained and the end has something like a glue on it so I cannot see the end grain. I cut a few strips as I thought I'd use it but then I saw the actual colour pattern and now it's got me wondering. There is no specific scent and no appreciable weight to it.
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Sorry about that each image was uploaded with the source in it's name... eg: Truss Parrel pg105-5 (-5 means 5th image from the page) The Masting + (and) Rigging of ESOW (English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee) If you copy them out you will have the info I thought for some reason it would display if you hovered your mouse over them
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there are a couple more but I fear I may be pushing things a bit with my photos from Index - The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee:
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here is some more info from The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee, pgs 66 and 67
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does this help? Top Gallant Yard from The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lee, pg 95
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Now that you're re-organized you'll never be able to find anything. 🤣
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Thanks for the info Mike It looked like the glue was in the hole first and seemed awkward.
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Mike Do you put a dab of glue in the drilled hole and then inset the treenail, or do you chamfer the lead corner of the treenail as a leader to help initial insertion and apply a dab of glue to the end of the treenail then insert it?
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Regarding the name I almost passed on looking at your build but then thought I was being stupid... after all, some ships were renamed two or three times. I had no idea what your ship might be. I am glad I took a peek. Alan O'Neill (From the Irish County Cork O'Neills)
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I had the idea weeks ago to make a sand tumbler. I saved a Orville Redenbacher Popcorn plastic bottle and screw top, and drilled a hole in the base for a bolt. I slipped a flat washer and O-ring over the bolt to seal it to the bottle base to keep the sand in. I intend to get a small bucket of clean beach sand to use in the "tumbler", but haven't made it out to the shore of Lake Erie just yet (a 30 minute drive). I'd fill the container about quarter full to start and slip the bolt into my wood lathe set to it's slowest speed. Toss in some scrap bits with holes drilled through for a test run. To empty it I'd dump the contents back into the bucket with a screen/sieve to catch the parts. I got the idea from fluidized bed furnaces and hopper screw augers used to remove debinded casting sand from Solution Furnaces. The former had sand flow like a fluid through every crack and crevice to heat treat gears, bolts, golf clubs, etc.. The latter seemed to be self cleaning via sand rubbing against the hopper and chute. So I imagine the sharp edges of the tiny sand grains would wear away and soften the edges of blocks, grooves and holes. All I need now is the darned sand.
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FYI The official response from DREMEL regarding their right angle drill attachment and their flex-shaft: "Unfortunately, the right angle and the flex shaft are both attachments for our rotary tools, but are not compatible with each other." Seems like a missed opportunity and short sightedness on the part of their engineering and marketing group... and so I suggested they might want to get their design group working on it. Of course I expect no action, but will be pleasantly surprised if a year and a half from now it is offered.
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You, like others I follow, are well ahead of me (which is a good thing for me!). I was in the shop drilling holes with the dremel and flex-shaft when I took a break and read the update on your build from my phone. The dremel was dangling there in front of me. I did a quick search and some came up (but read on). If you can use your homemade mini drill in the space, holding it in your hand (fingers?) I imagined a dremel attachment might not be much more difficult. When I went upstairs later I did a better search on my computer and I am not certain they make one for the flex-shaft or for number size drills. They seem to only connect directly to the Dremel unit. I've contacted Dremel to ask. I have an ancient model that doesn't come up on their drop down menus for filling in their forms. Mine has replaceable brushes that I could not find on the website. YIKES. (I should have asked about that also).
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I wonder if a dremel with a 3 foot flexible cable and a 90° drill attachments would be a good alternative. FYI: My first flex cable burnt through the casing as I didn't know it needed to be taken apart and coated with grease occasionally. The next one has lasted me 20 years.
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