AON

something in the water

Thank you all I believe my question was answered and then some!

spikes now that makes sense thank you

Hoping someone knows the answer. I just seems to me treenailing (dowels) would be easier to drive home from one side only but the contract specifies bolts and I cannot imagine how Last century rivets had to be red hot to hammer the heads to a tight mushroom shape (bridge construction) so I imagine it was the same in the 1700s (for ships) How could they pre-insert a red hot bolt, get the timber in place, and then hammer the end over before it was too cool and still support the inaccessible far side head of the bolt. Stuff like this keeps me awake a night

It is a monotonous job but the finished effect is tremendous!

I should also mention that in my build the adjacent frames all have air ventilation space, including the floor timbers. There are filler pieces.

Couldn't do anything through the week and not much progress today. Made new keel pieces this afternoon. I am very happy with these and will hopefully glue the paper on tomorrow and might get the sections together.

Thank you all for your help. Here is the exact wording... [Page 4] FRAME --- It being of the utmoft confequence to the strength of the ship, that all the timbers of the frame should be as much as poffible be preferved from being cut by the ports of each deck, a difpofition for that purpofe is made on the faid draught, and as a further means to obtain it, the faid timbers appointed to make the sides of the ports being continued up to the top of the side, are to be framed in bends, 1st, 2d, 3d and 4th futtocks and top timbers together (as diftinguifhed on the draught) and faftened with three bolts of 1-1/4 inches in each scarph, and that the firft futtocks be bolted to the refpective floors of every bend, with 3 bolts of 1-1/4 inch diameter, that the stations of the faid frames fo diftinguifhed, are to be preferved with great exactnefs, and fo fuch of them as ftands afore and abaft the square frames, and are to be canted, thefe alfo are to keep their stations, at the breadth, and what is required to give the fafhion piece and beakhead timbers a proper flight, or cant,.... (continues)

working 60 hours a week are taking there toll I didn't see that coming looks much better then what I envisioned thank you time to go downstairs and cut some wood

My build contract states "... are to be framed in bends, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th futtocks and top timbers together, and fastened with three bolts of 1-1/4" diameter in each scarph..." Was there a pattern for laying these groups of three out... possibly diagonally over the length of the scarph (height of the frame)? Anything I find shows two laid out diagonally but there is no source to suggest this is correct FYI: Floor timbers are sided 13-1/2" to 16" Top timbers are sided 10-1/2" Futtocks would be anything from 16" to 10-1/2" Futtock heads and heels are joined with chocks whereas top timbers employ a plain scarph.

Okay So the very first set are easy to do. Then a third frame goes up.... Presumably the hole was bored through the second and third frame, and the bolt installed in the second frame, before it went up as the bolt could not be installed after. How do they brace the bolt head to hammer the other end? Did they use metal plates and wedge shims in the space?

Framing filler pieces Construction of the English Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin, pg 17 states: "The filling pieces were made ..... and were bolted in place in the fore and aft direction." As bolts were more like iron rivets with a ring washer how did they hold the one end in while hammering the other end to mushroom it over the ring? Particularly when the space was 1/4" or 1- 3/4" or even 2-3/4". Did they insert a temporary metal filler to hold the bolt in place?

The reason for rejection is obvious.... It is facing the wrong way!

LIKE MY FIRST TWO HOMES!

where do you blow the fumes out to?

Completed a number of non-related projects on my "to do" list this weekend, including sharpening some tools, but did manage to try the spot of black water based paint mixed in the yellow wood glue. I must confess I did not like the results so I did it again with the paper and had better results this time. Trimmed it with a scalpel before gluing the other section of keel to it. I also worked on one half of the boxing scarph joint at the bow and it turned out pretty good. No photos though as I am not satisfied with this overall attempt and so will be redoing the whole thing. The material is not scrap, just won't be the keel. I am not disappointed, feeling good about the whole experience. Found myself wanting to jump ahead, fighting the urge... taking a breath and working on one piece at a time... this part is difficult for me. To use to multitasking.

I am anxiously waiting to see how you trim her out

I have a jig, never use to, and had used it this past weekend and will be again. As I wrote earlier: I have a lot of sharpening to do. My glued assembly came apart quite nicely the other evening. I think I'll give the water base paint and glue a try. Thank you.

I was just forwarded this link to help me with the mirror finish http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Secrets/Sharpen_your_chisels_so_they_cut_like_razors.html I have a helovalot of sharpening/polishing to do!

Good morning Allan Thank you. I thought it was the bestest (is that a word) idea ever! I cleaned it up and the paper looks fantastic... but ... I should have trimmed the crepe paper back first as the assembly of the two pieces has a small rise to it. The crepe paper folded over (?) against the ruler when it was clamped I am presently soaking the joint in rubbing alcohol to take it apart and do it over as this tiny little lift will nag at me forever.

For years I laboriously sharpened my chisels by eye. Then I saw someone use this neat contraption so I acquired it. Now I find my chisels have a wonderful round to them. I spent another long time removing this round with the new contraption. Now I have to polish the back side to a mirror finish? Yes, I'm shaking my head.... but...If it is going to help me do it right consider it done. It has also been suggested I practice with a square block backing to get a better feel for the perpendicular angle. I am game to try this also. Thank you. Alan

And we start (again) Saturday 27 Feb 2016 Ripped a couple pieces of castello boxwood to about 20" (1:64) on the table saw then milled down to 18" Sliced of strips from it to about 20" and then milled them to 18" square. This is the stock material for the 4 keel pieces The foremost section of the keel with the boxing scarph joint for the lower stem post needed to have the strip cut made wider, about 40", as it stands taller forward than aft. Using a longer piece than necessary, using a sharp soft (HB) pencil lead, I marked of the length, depth and angle of the scarph on the top side of the stern most keel section. The depth of the scarph joint was carefully cut on the scroll saw and using a freshly sharpened chisel I attempted to cut it out in very small slices. I seem to have a huge problem keeping my chisel perpendicular to the stock to get a clean square cut. To remedy this... until I master my chiselling skills... I cut off the bad scarph joint (scrap) and remarked the stock. I clamped it on the line on my flat faced woodworking vise. Using a fine toothed saw I cut the depth perpendicular to the stock. Using the same saw I cut the length somewhat parallel to the surface of the vise. Using my chisel I cleaned it up and then sanded. I repeated this on the mating piece and this resulted in a good joint. I did not invent this method... I saw it somewhere in a build log on the forum. Thank you! Sunday 28 Feb 2016 I used this same method to cut down the 40" height of the foremost keel section aft of the boxing scarph joint to 18". The scarph joint shape was transfer to the stock using carbon paper. The carbon paper was place on top of transparent (see through) graph paper. The carbon side faced up to the graph paper. My template was placed over top of the graph paper. I traced the outlined of the scarph joint shape with my pencil which transferred it to the underside of the graph paper. The transparent paper was placed on the stock and the carbon line (on the underside against the stock) was traced once again with my pencil resulting in the line being transferred to the stock. This is much more work than cutting and gluing but I am trying to preserve my templates (and eliminate any need to spend more money on another copy) This shape was roughly cut out on the scroll saw and then cleaned up with a drum sander attached to the drill press. The boxing scarph joint has yet to be cut. The stern post mortise hole was drilled out and cleaned up as best as I can manage for now. Black crepe paper (representing the waterproofing tar soaked felt) was cut oversize and glued to one outer set of joints (toe/heel). When this dried the two pieces were glued and clamped. This paper has yet to be trimmed back to the keel surface.

To mark this special occasion I've updated my profile photo with a younger me. Today I took a trip to Exotic Wood in Burlington (1 hour drive north) and purchased three pieces of Castello Boxwood 2-1/2" x 5-1/2 to 6" x 51" at $11.50 bd foot. They have two pieces 2-1/2" x 8" x 51" left. When these are sold the price increases 30% higher. Luckily I can cut this down, plane and sand it to my required thickness. I also made my scales (rulers)..... used my Eastern Hemlock fir strapping for this. I can measure to 1" at 1:64 accurately I glued the paper scales to the wood with Rubber Cement and then sealed the whole piece with spray sealer. Funny story... since my first use in grade school I have always used the Rubber Cement incorrectly. I always bushed it to both pieces and placed them together immediately then waited (im)patiently for it to dry. I was recently shown it is to be applied to both pieces, let them dry and then place the one piece over the other and press. I think I'll use the Hemlock for the False Keel among other choice locations for colour variation. So the build begins!

OMG Plans printed and seeing them for the first time at the build scale... they look great They all are consistently 1/64" short per foot (0.4mm per 0.3 metres) I think I'll learn to live with it.

Thank you for the kind words. Just paying it forwards.... hoping someone besides me can make use of them.