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alde

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Everything posted by alde

  1. You'll get there Lou. Give it time. Maybe you could just concentrate on your research for now and the rest will come in time. I'll get what I have to you. I just need to figure out how to use my scanner. Its one of those combined with a printer and copier. I think I used the scanner 2 times since I got it. If all else fails I'll bring them with me next time we get together and you can just borrow them.
  2. Lou, I've been waiting to see some progress on your Provedence. I found infomation on your ship you may not have including a decent profile drawing and some descriptions. Also a painting showing a boat on deck. You may already have it all but tomorrow I'll try to get it scanned and email it to you. If it's good stuff great. If not no loss. I hope I can get to planking in a couple of weeks. The fore and aft frames will be a challenge not to mention the rabbit.
  3. Not me. I tend to be pretty patient when it comes to modeling. Once I get ready to build a boat I'll work at it until I can build a decent boat no matter how long it takes. I'll also try different methods until I find one that works for me. I think you work the same way from what I have seen of your model.
  4. I'm almost done with all the full frames and am pretty happy with it so far. Once the full frames are all glued into the building jig it will be time to glue in the keel assembly. That leads me to a bit of a dilemma. I know for sure I'm going to plank at least one plank below the shear strake. I have also seen some models with one or two planks up from the keel. I'm thinking of doing this. From what I see from other models only planked one below the shear plank they don't bother cutting a rabbit. If I do a plank or two up from the keel I will definitely need a rabbit. Any thoughts?
  5. I have a couple in my workbench drawer for a while too. I tried to build one a while back but ended up throwing the whole thing in the scrap box. I just couldn't get any of the wood to bend no matter what I did. Next time I'll follow your lead and use boxwood.
  6. I think the weak link with those Model Shipways boat kits is the material. The wood is just too brittle and thick to work with using the tight bends on these little boat frames. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with boxwood. Some well built boats can be a nice focal point for a great ship model.
  7. Is it the Birchwood Casey Brass Black? If so I have used it and it worked well for me too. But like you point out it needs time to set before it's durable enough to handle.
  8. Mick, she's fitting out beautifully. I plan to go back a re-read your log from the start. I think your experience will be very helpful on my current build and especially when I eventually start my Galley Washington. I was just going over the plans and material list yesterday. I bought the wood package from Crown Timberyard a year ago.
  9. I need to go back and read your whole build log but WOW. Amazing work.
  10. Every time I try to use super glue for anything it turns into a disaster. I try to avoid the stuff all together. I'm learning there's no substitute for good fitting parts and. For knots diluted white glue works great.
  11. I've started glueing some frames to the building jig. What I've been doing is getting the distance from the top of the keel to the table top that the jig is sitting on by using the framing plan. The frame extensions that go into the slots on the jig are a tad long. After gluing in the first and last full frame's into the jig I just sand the frame extensions of each frame until the keel just seats in the slot without rocking. I just work slowly and check the fit often until it's just right. Then I clamp the frame to the keel (without glue) then glue the frame extensions to the jig. Each frame has a perfect fit to the keel. Once all the full frames are guled to the jig the keel can be glued to the frames. It's going very smoothly. I know purists don't consider this true POF building but it sure works well.
  12. I'm really enjoying it Mark. It's a nice kit. In the Colonial Schooner book by Hahn he thins the assembled frames in the same way. It only takes a few minutes per frame and works great. I'm looking forward to starting a scratch built project. I think by the time I get through this I'll be about ready. The frames wouldn't really be that much more work. It will just take a bit of practice to get accurate cuts for the keel parts and such. I haveven the tools. I just need to learn to use them.
  13. Just a quick update. I forgot to mention an important step in the frame building process. They need to be sanded to a thickness of 3/16". The laminated pieces come out to 1/4" before they are sanded down using a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. You can also see how much the frames need to be sanded to match the frame outline on the plans. The more I use the oscillating spindle sander the more I like it. With a light enough grit it's easy to control.
  14. Not much new but I have the first 5 frames sitting in the jig with the keel set on it just to see how she looks. What I have been doing with the frames is assemble the 9 frame parts, then rubber cement the drawing to the frame and take it to the oscillating spindle sander and sand it to the lines with 150 grit. I love the spindle sander and it does the frames great. The build is going along great and I love the kit so far. This is going to be a great step toward my goal of scratch building a larger more complicated ship.
  15. Mark, I was surprised about the jig being off that much too. The other parts match the plans perfectly. As of right now I plan to use the kit guns. They look pretty nice and are well cast.
  16. I started putting some frames together using the 9 parts for each frame and the plan sheet as a guide to make sure they keep to the correct dimensions. After I got a couple of frames together I sanded them to approximate thickness as Hahn shows in his book The Colonial Schooner 1763-1775. Then I tried setting them in the building jig and noticed they did not fit well. I compared the kit jig to the plans and found that it was off by a bit too much for me to be comfortable with. I headed off to the hardware store and bought a sheet of 1/4" MDX and rubber cemented the jig from the plan to it and cut out my own on the scroll saw. A couple of hours later I had a jig I was happy with.
  17. For years before ever became interested in ship modeling I have admired the photos I have seen of Harold Hahn''s ships. Years ago I was able to see some of his models in the Maritime Museum in Norfolk Virginia and the memory stuck with me. I think these little Colonial Schooners are beautiful ships. I bought a few of Mr. Hahns plans from his son and had planned on starting with the Hannah from scratch. Then I saw the build log of the beautiful Halifax build by rafine on this forum. Before that I didn't know there was any kind of kit available. I had to have one. Late last year I went ahead and purchased the kit with the laser cut frames in Swiss Pear. The kit looks really nice and the wood and laser cutting look really good. My plan is to build this while I continue on with my Glad Tidings Schooner. I will be updating that build log soon too. Here are some pictures of the kit parts.
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