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Everything posted by alde
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Thanks Mark. I was leaning that way but it sure helps to hear from someone with more experience. The half frames that I have installed seem pretty solid without pinning them but I think I'll go ahead and do the half frames like Hahn shows. I did drill and pin all the full frames to the keel and it's nice and solid now. It's fairing up pretty well too. It's starting to look like a hull. I hope to have the rest of the half frames in by maybe the end of next week.
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I have a question for those with more experience with this type of build. I'm doing the half frames now and have 3 in place now. In Hahn's book he shows these frames being trunneled in place for added strength. I plan to do this but was wondering if I should drill all the way through both frames and pin them together or just drill into the deadwood? To me it makes sense to go all the way through. I was just re-reading some of the book and see that when he installed the keel he uses epoxy. I used yellow titebond for mine. When I was doing some preliminary fairing a couple of the frames popped loose. I wish I had paid more attention when I did this. I may drill and pin each one through the inside of the hull into the keel for extra strength.
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Lawrence, I am having a great time with this build. It's really rewarding to see it come together and I'm learning a lot from it. I'm looking forward to your Oliver Cromwell coming together. Your making great progress. I really like the Hahn method and plan to do at least a couple more like this. The Cromwell is going to build into a beautiful ship and I may build it one day. I think maybe the Hannah may be next though. From there I don't know. I have a pretty good stash of kits I may end up finding new homes for so I can focus on scratch building but who knows.
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Looking forward to it James. Thank you.
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Looking really nice Mick. I really like the look of the treenails on the deck. The color and size look just right. They don't stand out too much and look like freckles. They are subtle. Very nice indeed.
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Thanks Mark. By adjustment I guess you guys are talking about depth? I figured I would have to do that. I have a set of small, curved rifler files that should work great for that. I glued the keel to the whole frames today but haven't touched it since. I'll start on the rest of the frames Monday. I'm looking forward to that.
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Tick strip
alde replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I would think the bottom of the rabbit would most accurate. If you go from the surface of the keel you'll come up a bit short. -
I know it's not much of an update on the build but it felt like a real milestone for me. I was really stressing about cutting the rabbit but I think it went pretty well. Using the framing plan as a guild I drew in the rabbit with a straight edge and ships curve. Once I was happy with the way it looked and adjusting it here and there I clamped the steel staight edge to the straight part of the keel and started making light cuts with a No.11 blade on an angle. I did all 4 straight lines then started carving out the V-groove. Then for the stem I did basically the same thing only free hand this time to make the curve. After most of the wood was removed I used the corner of my steel straight edge to scrape out the groove to clean it up. Both side look pretty decent if I must say so myself. Now that that is done I will make sure everything fits well and looks good then glue the keel assembly to the frames. Cutting the rabbit was about all I could do today.
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Glad to hear your easing yourself back into it. I bet it gets easier when you start to make some real progress. As far as planking goes I don't have a lot of experience either but I've found that the most important thing to do is not glue anything until your absolutely happy with the fit. I have taken a good part of a day fitting a plank until I was happy with the way it fit without any stress on it. Then clamping is really easy because your just holding it in place and not trying to bend it into place. It can be frustrating at first but gets easier once you learn how the wood reacts.
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Mike, Welcome to the forum. It is a great bunch of folks. You will end up making some good friends even if you never meet face to face. I know I have. A build log is the best way to learn. You'll get great advice and learn the terminology as you go. Once you have the kit in hand and you study the plans many of your questions will be answered. You might consider a first ship being something there are several build logs for. The Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop is very popular with a bunch of great build logs that will guide you through your build along with asking questions in your own log. I'm sure the Friendship Sloop would be a good choice too. They are great looking vessels for sure. Just have fun and ask for help when needed.
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You'll get there Lou. Give it time. Maybe you could just concentrate on your research for now and the rest will come in time. I'll get what I have to you. I just need to figure out how to use my scanner. Its one of those combined with a printer and copier. I think I used the scanner 2 times since I got it. If all else fails I'll bring them with me next time we get together and you can just borrow them.
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Lou, I've been waiting to see some progress on your Provedence. I found infomation on your ship you may not have including a decent profile drawing and some descriptions. Also a painting showing a boat on deck. You may already have it all but tomorrow I'll try to get it scanned and email it to you. If it's good stuff great. If not no loss. I hope I can get to planking in a couple of weeks. The fore and aft frames will be a challenge not to mention the rabbit.
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Not me. I tend to be pretty patient when it comes to modeling. Once I get ready to build a boat I'll work at it until I can build a decent boat no matter how long it takes. I'll also try different methods until I find one that works for me. I think you work the same way from what I have seen of your model.
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I'm almost done with all the full frames and am pretty happy with it so far. Once the full frames are all glued into the building jig it will be time to glue in the keel assembly. That leads me to a bit of a dilemma. I know for sure I'm going to plank at least one plank below the shear strake. I have also seen some models with one or two planks up from the keel. I'm thinking of doing this. From what I see from other models only planked one below the shear plank they don't bother cutting a rabbit. If I do a plank or two up from the keel I will definitely need a rabbit. Any thoughts?
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I have a couple in my workbench drawer for a while too. I tried to build one a while back but ended up throwing the whole thing in the scrap box. I just couldn't get any of the wood to bend no matter what I did. Next time I'll follow your lead and use boxwood.
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I think the weak link with those Model Shipways boat kits is the material. The wood is just too brittle and thick to work with using the tight bends on these little boat frames. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with boxwood. Some well built boats can be a nice focal point for a great ship model.
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