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alde

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Everything posted by alde

  1. Yes, that's about right. The pictures on my log are before I ripped off all the planking though. The ones you see were straight planks that were forced into place. I am now re-planking with spiled planks and it looks much better. I was not happy with it before.
  2. Thank you very much Chuck. That clears things up quite a bit for me. On my Halifax I have been spileing, fitting, soaking and clamping the wet plank to the hull until it's dry. Then I do a bit more fitting then glue with titebond and clamp again. The formed planks still have a bit of spring to them but clamp easily with very little additional bending. This is my first time really spileing planks so I'm still trying to learn as much as I can. Your willingness to share your knowledge is very much appreciated.
  3. Chuck, your hull looks amazing. A couple of questions if you don't mind. First, the lower shear strake fits perfectly snug against the plank under it. Is this strictly because the shear plank is perfectly spiled? Does it have to be forced at all? Also, how to you clamp the planks in place? I have seen several different clamping methods but your seems to really work well. With the planks that I have spiled I can get them to lay down pretty well against the frames but it's a challenge to get them to snug up tight against the previous plank.
  4. Yes they are. I think they are too big for most ship modeling applications. Now that I did it its really easy to make your own. I think I remember seeing Chuck make a scraper from brass. I'm going to try that next time. That way it can be done with files with more control.
  5. Thank you all for your help and great suggestions. I just finished making 2 moulding strips out of Swiss Pear and have them soaking in water to be bent to shape. The home made tool cut really well as you can see from the shavings in the picture. The diamond cutter had no trouble cutting the blade using the fastest speed on the Dremel tool.
  6. I made a scraper from a blade using a small diamond cutter on my Dremel tool and it worked very well. The boxwood strip is just 1/16” wide. It’s hard to see the profile in the picture but it looks pretty nice.
  7. Absolutely beautiful Druxey. A true work of art. I'm going to try making my own scraper tomorrow. The factory made ones I have are the wrong size for my application and they do drift. I'll be carving my own decorations (very simple compaired to yours) and your work is an inspiration for sure.
  8. I was for sure applying pressure. Probably too much.
  9. Thanks Chazz. I'll try your tips when I get back to the shop tomorrow morning.
  10. I have been trying to shape some moulding strips for my Halifax using a scraping tool as shown in some books and I have seen builders here use. I have tried using both boxwood and pear but just get a mess. It just feathers and won't form a clean shape. What am I doing wrong?
  11. She's looking up to your usual high standards Bob. The gun rigging looks great.
  12. Thank you Ken. That helps me a lot. I tried edge bending the planks and it looked ok but just wasn’t right. I’m really glad I removed it and have a another shot st doing it right.
  13. Ken, you mentioned that you edge bent the lower wale. Did you also edge bend the planking between the wales? I edge bent the planks between the wales on my Halifax and found it could have been better. I had to remove all the planking because it was not positioned properly. Now I have a chance to do a better job. The spacing is even from bow to stern like yours. Your hull looks very similar to Halifax. By the way your Independence is looking great.
  14. I checked bow and stern and it’s right on the money. This even gave me a shot at improving the fairing a bit.
  15. Downer, I folded it right at the top surface of the building board and it should be right on. It’s going to be much better this time. I’m excited about planking it this time.
  16. Here is the method I’m going to use to get accurate elevations from the plans. I picked up a tri-fold foam board and used plastic drafting angles to fix it at 90 deg. Then I folded the plan on the top surface of the building board. Now accurate dimensions can be taken and transferred right to the hull. I wish I had done this the first go around.
  17. Now that all the planking is off including the shear plank I know it was the right decision. My plan is to try to carve all the decorations including the stern, figurehead and side lights in boxwood. I figure I’ll just keep trying until I get it right. Its the only way I’m going to learn.
  18. Dowmer, I will do exactly as you suggest. Once it's all cleaned up it should go pretty smooth. It will also give me a chance to improve the quality of the planking in general too. They could have been fitted better.
  19. I went ahead and did it. I ripped off the planking to the wales. I could have faked it and made it look OK but it just would not have been right. This time I'll think a few moves ahead before I redo it and lay it out correctly. I know I would never be happy with it the way it was. It will probably take a couple of days before it's cleaned up enough to lay in some planks. It was a tough decision but I know I'll be glad I did it.
  20. You are seeing what I'm seeing. The more I look at it and think about it I will have to take everything off down to the wales as you suggest. I am taking this model as a learning tool anyway so may as well make corrections and do it as best I can.
  21. I told you guys about my problem with starting the planking too far from the keel or maybe using planks that are too wide. In any case my biggest problem is the stern. The picture shows where the casting should go but the as you can see the planking is much too high. The way I see it there are two things I can do. First is redo the planking by ripping it all off and starting over. The second is to build my own stern decorations and windows with elongated windows or more empty space between the windows and carvings. Do you guys see any other choices or have any suggestions?
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