USS Constitution by Modeler12 - Cross-Section - Bow Area

[Modeler12]

Jud, I think I understand what you are referring to, however, keep in mind that the pieces I show are cut roughly to shape. A lot of filing and sanding will smooth out those transitions and make them look like the real thing (I hope).

 

I should add one more comment about the thickness of the knees.

A real closeup of the real ship indicates that the legs of all knees that are against the bulwarks are really against the frames and the inside planking was added afterwards. Structurally that makes a lot of sense but for my model an impossible task. Hence those legs will be filed thinner and glued against the planks. 

Edited November 27, 2015 by Modeler12

[Modeler12]

Here is the before and after filing and sanding.

The long legs still have to be cut to length and the short leg of the diagonal needs to be beveled.

But that will be done during final fitting and glue-up.

[Modeler12]

Eye bolts for the gun tackles

After the knees were made, I decided to add the eye bolts that are fastened to the standing knee and hold the double blocks for the gun tackle. There two, one for each gun as shown in the photograph above.

I figured those are easier to install on the bench.

To make the 'eye bolts' I used some 0.015 inch thick brass wire, made a loop and inserted a steel pin. 

That was rotated to twist the wire and make an eye.

Using a pair of pliers, I flattened the end as if there are two hoops. They still need to be blackened.

  

The two blocks I show are 3mm and have the hook and strop soldered on and then the wire was blackened. That's why the dark color.

I have also made these by making the hook separate, drill a hole in the end of the block and glue the hook directly into the block.

All of that will come later when I make the gun carriages.

[Modeler12]

Correction

The 'eye bolts' shown above were too heavy, too thick.

So I tried a couple more using some steel wire (of the same thickness, 0.015 inch), brass at 0.012 inch (28 gauge) and brass at 0.007 inch (32 gauge).

I think the 28 gauge looks about right. 

I will also use that gauge to make the hooks and probably go down to 2.5 mm for the blocks. That translates to 7.5 inches full scale.

[lambsbk]

This is really coming together nicely Jay. I LOVE those glowing camboose coals! It is a beautiful build.

 

Dave

 

P.S. If I could make a small suggestion: On pics like the one above of the entire build (post #504) - if your camera will do it - take a higher resolution shot. The site will allow up to about 2 megapixels per pic which, if uploaded, really allows us viewers out here to get up close and personal with your build. Your detail is worth every bit of this eye candy. Well done.

Edited November 30, 2015 by lambsbk

[Modeler12]

Thanks Dave,

I am aware that when I post pictures I could increase the pixel count, but some time ago I decided to keep it to where I simply crop to the size you see (5 inches vertical in most cases).

In the case of post 504 I just wanted to show the overall layout before it is finished. Later I will show the gun deck up close, but it is far from finished. Likewise the front has a lot of wood sticking out and needs to be trimmed flush, and other such details.

In fact, I am removing the planking along the port side because I had trouble cutting the gun port holes. I need to reinforce the frames, cut the opening from the outside first (add the horizontal parts) and then cut the planking to fit the openings. Just like you (and I) did on the full size models.

[Modeler12]

Has anyone ever done a cross section of a gun and carriage?

 

My section would have one gun port right in front and it is cut in half.
That means the gun and carriage should also be cut in half, right?

I mean length wise.  

I know this is a crude sketch and the barrel should have a straight bore . . . ., but what about the carriage?

 

 

MMMMM?????

Edited December 1, 2015 by Modeler12

[GLakie]

I think that would be a first Jay. 

[Canute]

How will you keep it level? Guess you could pin the wheels and put one under the trunnion point.

[dgbot]

I think it would be a first.  I have seen models split at the waterline half and half and one where the modeler did a fully framed half and on open framed half as a second model.  But I have never seen a cut away of a cannon.  Should prove interesting to achieve.

David B

[Modeler12]

How will you keep it level? Guess you could pin the wheels and put one under the trunnion point.

I thought about that also and maybe I could hold the half up by gluing the breach line (on the other side) down to the deck.

It would be interesting to show the inside of the bore with powder cartridge and cannon ball in place.

I do have some cannon balls, but am not about to try to cut those in half.

 

Cutting the cannon and carriage in half is just a crazy idea, but I am not throwing it out of the window, yet.

Edited December 1, 2015 by Modeler12

[cwboland]

Interesting idea. Maybe you could add a small clear acrylic block under the carriage to hold it up?

[lambsbk]

 Great idea Jay.

 

Halving the breeching as well as the truck and tackle will also be challenging. Can't wait to see what you have come up with.

Edited December 1, 2015 by lambsbk

[Geoff Matson]

Go for it Jay. Half the fun is figuring out how to do it. If you can make hammocks, you can cut the cannon in half. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[Modeler12]

Well, you guys are posing too much of a challenge not to give it a try.

My thoughts are to make the barrel out of wood, mill it in half and paint the outside black and the metal cross section grey with some 'grain'. I will simply have to use some glue to hold this part in the saddle, etc.

All of that is in a very small scale so quite a tricky operation.

Don't hold your breath because I have lots of other work yet to be done.

[mtaylor]

Interesting problem....  This is a first.     As for mounting the whole assembly, maybe glue and pin the trucks to the deck and the half breeching rope, harden it with CA or epoxy.  Or maybe run a wire in the middle of it?  It would need to be secured to the deck to help hold things in place.  A bit of cantilever construction methinks.

[Modeler12]

I'll take the above suggestions in consideration. Thanks to all of you.

But it comes later.

 

Meanwhile I have dry-fitted the spar deck so I can determine where those beams go before I install the knees on the gun deck.

Keep in mind this is all loose - as you can see by the slanted ladders (which were also made well in advance).

The proposed 'half-gun assembly' would be located on the gun deck to the left of the slanted ladder.

 

Of course not yet included are the mast, chimney and many other details.

[Modeler12]

I encountered a bit of a set back. 

While installing the standing knees and then the diagonal knees I found it almost impossible to align them with the spar deck beams. I was trying to do this without having that deck in place and simply mark the spots. The diagonal knees are supposed to butt up against the spar deck beams, but I had major gaps with the first two and gave up.

 

What I now intend to do is to remove several deck planks on the spar deck and work from above to cut and align those diagonal knees. I hope that makes sense, but it will take some more time.

 

Actually that gives me a chance to do a better job with the spar deck planking since those will be all visible from above.
Likewise I want to add a few more short planks along the starboard side front and back. That way I gradually phase into a 'complete' upper deck while still showing the carlings and joists in the center locations.

My plan is still to have the upper bulwarks, channels, etc finished on both sides.

When I am satisfied with the next step I will open up the starboard side.

[Burroak]

Jay you have put a lot of hard work into your cross section. It looks great. There is really a lot of details in it. Great job!

 

Greg H.

[Modeler12]

Jay you have put a lot of hard work into your cross section. It looks great. There is really a lot of details in it. Great job!

 

Greg H.

Thanks Greg. Most of it has been fun.

But there also have been times where I had to scratch my head about how to proceed.

This is one project that I don't want to rush, so I take time out to read, walk and have fun with the admiral.

[Canute]

Great way to recharge the batteries, Jay.

[Modeler12]

So, I have recharged my batteries and should be able to continue where I left off last December.

 

What happened is that I got side tracked with 'Le Machine' (a wood working project of things that move but don't do anything useful).
I'll post some detailed pictures elsewhere, but here is the idea.

All wood, no metal, some glue, but mostly wooden pins.

I can reassemble all while adding new features.

A hand crank to move chain and sprockets, gears, cams, and on and on it goes.

 

Then we traveled some more, took videos and had to spend time to edit and publish them.

Then I got lazy . . . .

 

Thanks to some of you who 'reminded' me of MSW. The cross section is still sitting on my work table in the garage like I left it several months ago. 
Time to get going, Jay.

[CaptainSteve]

'Tis good to see you back at the work-bench, Jay.

[mtaylor]

Aye, I'm with Steve.  It's great to see you back, Jay.  We were getting a bit worried.

[Geoff Matson]

Glad your back Jay. I know how that side track works.

[lambsbk]

Dido Jay. Welcome back.

 

...cool machine. 

[Modeler12]

Thank you guys. 

It was not like I was not working on my workbench, but it involved a bit of different 'work'.

That is just like me:

'Get involved and work hard', 

'Get involved and work harder'.

next  . .  

'Relax and take a trip'.

[Canute]

Jay, great to see you back on the 'list.

[Modeler12]

So, let's make some more saw dust.

The hardest thing when you get back after a long delay is to remember where I left of. First I cleaned up my workbench and tools and sorted out what I had in boxes etc.

 

I decided to modify the spar deck a bit. I cut more beams away, but am adding a few more planks towards the bow along the starboard side. That way I can add one more canonade in that position. I am also adding four of the horizontal knees along that side.

Meanwhile I have to continue with the slanted knees on the gun deck. You can see them lying in the foreground to the left.

[Modeler12]

Let me ramble on a bit.

I remember that I had the crazy notion to 'section' a canon and the carriage that is in the front of the model on the canon deck. Before I get serious about that I have to make or buy some canons first. Chuck, are you still there and are you making canonades?

I do have a mini lathe and could make my own, but I don't have the skill to make them out of brass like Chuck.

 

I mention this because I have to be very careful with each deck that all has been taken care of on one deck before I glue in the next.

On the gun deck I need to install the knees, canons and their rigging, the tools that go with that, the hatches and ladders to the deck below, the oven and the hitches, anchor cables, etc. So, obviously, I need to do lots more before installing the spar deck.

 

However, the frame needs lot more attention also. I need to continue the inside planking and think about how much of a cut-out I am going to make on the starboard side. The outside planking will not only be done on the port side, but also in several locations on the starboard side (fore and aft). That way I can still install the channels with the deadeyes.

 

I hate making 'to do' lists, but maybe I should.