Jump to content

Dinghy by Mtoriordan - FINISHED - Midwest Products - Small - 1" = 1' (1/12)


Recommended Posts

The second planks went on beautifully after putting a bevel in the upper edge of the bottom planks.

The final planks were not cut straight as the other planks were. They had what I would describe as a wave cut, the center being much wider than either end. I had attached them and decided a day later to remove them and reposition. The planks were just visually unappealing as they were. Switching sides and flipping the ends around improved the look.

The photos showing where the third planks looked just off were great, but have gone missing.

 

As of now, she is planked and off the strong back.post-18889-0-99534100-1429048832_thumb.jpgpost-18889-0-99123000-1429048887_thumb.jpg

 

Have a little damage to tend to from the pushpins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks very good. The "wave cut" you describe is simply that both ends were tapered down to a smaller width than the center of the plank. Tapering planks is common in boats.

 

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coming along nicely Maryo.

 

 

Mario

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Russ, 'tapered' the exact word I had wanted to use but my brain would not provide. Are planks tapered to adjust for the curves? My tapered planks hung low in the center, running pretty deeply into the center plank.

 

Mario and Brian, much appreciate your checking in and the kind words. Mario, I will be looking at the Flattie build you did. Thinking I would like to try that in the future.

 

I had used push pins to attach hull to strong back. This is my repair job, pretty sure a seat will cover this area.

I pushed a toothpick into the hole, trimmed the excess ofF and then sanded smooth.post-18889-0-82458300-1429311102_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had measured the recommended height for the seat risers and attaching them was easier than I thought they were going to be. Preplanning the clamping was key. The next day after taking a good look, the risers seemed too high. Placed a seat across the rail and imagined a person seated there...definitely too high. Compared the placement of the risers on the plan to mine and they looked to be high by about 1/4 inch.

 

I did not have any trouble gently prying the risers off. After installing them at the height similar to the plan, I was much happier with the appearance.

 

I then began shaping the seats and had a really good time with that. After a lot of cutting and sanding, am very pleased with the seats. Found the process very gratifying.

 

In between risers drying and methodically working on the seats, I also accomplished some major sanding on the hull and transom. Have some spots that need some cleaning up, but am making some great progress.

 

Have gotten the grip attached. The very top of it bent at a slight weird angle, will have to get a photo of it up. Have not decided if it is something that will annoy me enough to remove and attach a new one.

 

Thank you all for the likes.post-18889-0-80385400-1429498022_thumb.jpgpost-18889-0-86234600-1429498048_thumb.jpgpost-18889-0-74623800-1429498309_thumb.jpgpost-18889-0-68529600-1429498528_thumb.jpg

 

 

The seats have yet to be glued. I believe I am getting to a point that I will have to make painting decisions. Not quite sure where I am going to go with that yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seats look very good. I think you are doing an excellent job.

 

As for paint, why not do a clear coat and show off the different woods? Your choice.

 

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jparsely, thank you for the advice. I know nothing about stains and varnishes. I also could never have put this together in two days and have it resemble a boat.

 

I think I will be going with Russ' suggestion of a clear coat..perhaps a painted waterline. I googled clear coat and now know what it s :)

 

I hav attached the inwales. There are a few more parts to attach before the instructions advise painting or applying varnish. Another lesson learned, plan an end game while previewing instructions. The inwales and risers don't leave a lot of room to work inpost-18889-0-60110200-1429663399_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maryo,

   She is coming along nicely. I used a wipe on poly with a satin finish for mine. You can see it here.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/album/195-dingy-124-midwest-modelsdioramateleman/

 

Mario

Thank You all...

 

Mario

 

 

:piratetongueor4:  :piratetongueor4:

"Each of us is a mixture of some good and some not so good qualities. In considering one's fellow man it's important to remember the good things ... We should refrain from making judgments just because a fella happens to be a dirty, rotten SOB(biscuit) ;) "

 

 

 

My Builds....

 

BETTEAU WAR OF 1812     BOUNTY LAUNCH(bashed)    CHESAPEAKE BAY FLATTIE

 

THE SEA of GALILEE BOAT   VICTORIAN STEAM LAUNCH(bashed)    HOWARD CHAPELLE's CRABBING SKIFF

 

LADY KATHRINE 1812 SCHOONER

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mary:

A couple of things to think about with stains.

 

First of all, if you have any glue dried on the surface of the wood, that will not accept any kind of finish. The areas of dried glue will be visible after you stain or clear coat. A good sanding will take care of most of these problem areas, but beware.

 

Second, basswood is rather soft and some areas of the wood will accept the stain or finish differently than other areas. It can result in an uneven, blotchy result. I use a pre stain conditioner made by Minwax before apply the stain. You can apply the pre stain conditioner and then the stain about 20 minutes afterwards. The conditioner will penetrate the wood, helping the wood absorb the stain or finish more evenly, making for a much better result.

 

Your work looks good so far.

 

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you for the advice Russ. I experimented with a clear coat, as well as getting some painting practice in. Stains, varnish and paints, oh my. An aspect of this hobby I had not thought about much and boy do I have a lot to learn!

 

I totally enjoyed building from this kit. It was perfect as a second build. Similar enough to the schiff build and i was able to apply skills learned. It also stretched some of my newly acquired skills with a few new techniques. Another enjoyable Midwest build experience.

 

I wish to express my gratitude to everyone for all the likes, advice, kindness and the very warm welcome.

 

Midwest, Chesapeake Bay flat tie should be arriving next week.

post-18889-0-32418900-1430430976_thumb.jpg

post-18889-0-60546100-1430431015_thumb.jpg

post-18889-0-57316800-1430431047_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a fine looking model. Excellent work and congratulations.

 

Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only just found your log MaryO, and you have completed the build. It looks like you did a great job on it and received plenty of helpful advice along the way. The end result looks fabulous and you can be very proud of your achievement. Well done! Best wishes for your next build. With your approach to learning and developing new skills as you go, I'm sure it will be equally enjoyable for you, and will achieve an equally good end result.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations. That is a sweet looking dinghy MaryO. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...