Phantom by EBEgan - Model Shipways - Pilot Boat - First Ship Build

[EBEgan]

Starting up today.  The last couple of days have been spent reading Chuck's practicum and waiting for tools to arrive.

 

 

I started with the limited tools I already had.  I cut out the hull templates and cut down the stern to size, the templates still don't fit very well so I imagine I have a lot of sanding and shaping to do.  I'm considering just using measurements off the plans instead of the templates.  I also began to level the bottom of the hull, tomorrow I will begin in earnest once the rest of my supplies arrive.

 

 

 

-Edward

 

[_SalD_]

Best of luck with the Phantom Edward. It's a lot of fun building this model.

[Jack12477]

Edward, pulling up a seat to watch your build. Good luck with the kit.

 

You might want to take a trip to your local Michaels (arts/crafts chain store) or equivalent and pick up a good supply of old fashion wood clothes pins (the spring action type), get several sizes including the teeny tiny ones that look like doll clothes pins. The make fantastic clamps.  Also pick up popsicle sticks - make excellent glue spreaders.  Office Depot and Staples carry metal binder clips - great clamps also.

Edited August 27, 2015 by Jack12477

[Omega1234]

Hi Edward

 

She's a lovely boat you're building and I can see that you're already off to a great start!

 

I'm going to happily follow along.

 

Cheers and all the best!

 

Patrick

[EBEgan]

Wow, the last few days have been interesting...
 
No one warned me about the black hole that occurs when building model ships.  I've been carving and sanding happily only to look up and realize that 3-4 hours have passed.  I'm currently 11 hours into the build.  Most of the time has been figuring out what tools were needed and then how to use them.
 
Considering that I haven't carved anything since middle school, and even then I wasn't using an exacto knife, things got off to a slow start.  As much as I have enjoyed carving the hull and the sense of accomplishment I felt after successfully (sort of) carving in the bulwark step, I'm looking forward to a POB build, and I probably won't attempt a solid hull again.
 
In any case, some pictures...

 

 

Cutting the hull templates.

Marking the hulll.

My hull seems to have been milled differently then others'.  The deck didn't have a "step" cut into it, it was just a gradual incline.  Had to mark and carve it out.

 

Carving out the bow, going to try to even out the bulwarks without breaking them.

 

Gluing strips together in order to fashion the bow stem.

 

[EBEgan]

Jack, thanks for the supply recommendations, as you can see I took your advice.  

 

I have to order everything on Amazon as I don't have a personal car and there are no Michael's in Manhattan (building this thing in a 680 sq.ft. apartment).

 

-Edward 

[dgbot]

Edward if you check there is a book titled Pilots about pilot boats and their history. It also has some photos and drawings that might give you some ideas. Have fun.

David B

[Jack12477]

Edward, here's a couple of links that will prove useful for tools

 

micro-mark The Small Tool Specialists

 

Lee Valley Tools (they have some really nice machinist clamps that work very well with model ships)

 

Also, the emery boards ladies use to file their nails make great sanding sticks - get the wooden kind not the foam kind - available in any drugstore, even in Manhattan.

 

Yes, time flies when you are having fun (as the saying goes).  Nice progress so far. Looks like you have a good assortment of tools already.

Edited August 30, 2015 by Jack12477

[Pete Jaquith]

Edward,

 

Good luck with your Phantom build. I am building the brigantine "Newsboy" also by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsea, MA. For shaping your hull, #60 grit sandpaper around a large hardwood dowel will will do it quickly.

 

Regards,

Pete

Shipbuilder

[EBEgan]

Let's be honest, the most important tool is that beer in the corner...

[EBEgan]

Quick question for those who have worked on this model... I'm waiting for the glue on the stem to set before sanding the entire hull and the practicum has coppering as the next step.  Should I paint the hull first before putting on the copper plates?  Even in the practicum the hull is painted in the coppering photo.

 

Thanks for any help.

[usedtosail]

Yes, I would suggest painting the hull before adding the cooper plates. This way you will get a nice crisp line at the top of the copper. I didn't do this when I built this model and was not happy about it at the time.

[EBEgan]

Rgr, thanks Tom that's what I was thinking.  I appreciate the help and quick response.

 

-Edward

[Pete Jaquith]

You may wish to delay coppering until completion of all exterior hull outfit.  My Newsboy build log here at MSW will show this approach.

 

Regards,

Pete

[EBEgan]

Wow, your Newsboy is a beauty Pete.  I think I will take your advice and hold off on the coppering until later.

[EBEgan]

I'm beginning to understand how addictive this hobby can get.  As fast as I want to go with the model I have to keep reminding myself...patience.  

 

Sanding the bulwarks down to size today was a challenge.  I'm really beginning to think I should get some kind of dremmel because I'm just not happy with my hand carving skills.  I spent most of the night attempting to get the bulwarks even.  I'm happy with where they are right now but only because this is my first build and I'm using this more as practice and not a display model.  I also left them a little thicker than the instructions recommended because I'm afraid to death of breaking them when I begin to drill the scuppers.

 

Stem fully attached. I've compressed the bulwarks in certain areas, not happy with it but I can't expect perfection with my first build, have to use this as a learning experience otherwise I'd drive myself and the Admiral insane.

 

I cut the launching way rails while the stem was clamped and setting.

 

Midship step was cut to the correct depth, and bulwarks were sanded down.

 

If I have any time tomorrow I will continue to even out the bulwarks and work on the rudder.

 

[Jack12477]

Edward, in addition to a Dremel (which is a great tool) you might also consider this small sander from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/micro-sander,7704.html.  I have one and it works well for small sanding jobs where the Dremel would be too powerful.  I use both Dremel and this a lot.

 

 

Update: These sanding wands from MicroMark also work well - I have a set of 4 in different grits http://www.micromark.com/micro-sanding-wand-set,7760.html

 

Another inexpensive way of making sanding sticks is to buy sheets of sandpaper of various grits from 60 up to 320 or higher; some popsicle  sticks (or something wider), lay the sticks on the paper and cut the paper to fit the stick (use an old Xacto blade) then use double-stick (two sticky sides) Scotch (or other brand) tape, place the tape on the stick, cut to size, then press the stick onto the sandpaper.  They wear out after a while but you can easily change the paper.  Also wrap a piece of sandpaper around a large dowe to get at curved surfaces.

Edited September 1, 2015 by Jack12477

[Omega1234]

Hi Edward

 

Nice job so far! You're right about the addictiveness of the hobby, though; however, as long as it remains fun, then it's worth it.

 

The little sander that Jack's recommended really looked nifty, as well. I reckon it'd be worth picking one up.

 

All the best and I'm looking forward to your next update!!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited September 1, 2015 by Omega1234

[Pete Jaquith]

Edward,

 

Some pictures of carving the bulwarks on my Newsboy 1853 build.  Vertical cuts with a sharp gouge, then vertical cuts with a flat chisel, followed with flexible sanding sticks from the beauty salon finished it up nicely.  Digital calapers helped to check the thickness.

 

Regards,

Pete

Edited September 1, 2015 by Pete Jaquith

[EBEgan]

Having some trouble with getting the waterline marked correctly.  The Plans have the waterline a half inch below the rail at station 5.  This seems awfully high to me.  I'm also having trouble actually marking the waterline since it appears it is on an angle with the hull.  Any tricks or tips?

[dgbot]

I never had the patience for them so remove them and remake it as I build.

David B

[FlounderFillet5]

Edward,

 

Your Phantom build is off to a great start! I am about to get back to work on mine but need to finish clearing my workbench and get set back up for model building. My build started on the original MSW so the early steps are not on here as they were lost with the transition to this new site but it can be something to reference when you get further as I take a ton of photos and give probably too much detail on how I did things.

 

For the water line, I used the model expo tool that they sell but all you need to do is set your hull up such that the waterline is horizontal and then use a pencil held onto a piece of scrap wood that gets your pencil lead to the correct height and just trace around the hull.

 

As for thinning the bulwarks, I think it just took some sandpaper and a ton of patience, just keep sanding a little bit at a time and you will get them thinned down to the 1/16" or whatever the plans call for. For the bulwark step,I just wrapped some sandpaper around one of the pieces of square stock that is used later in the build and ran it along the roughly carved step. It was also easier to thin the bulwarks from the outside because of this method.

 

Hope this helps you at least a little and good luck going forward!

[EBEgan]

Well, I've hit a snag.  I accidentally cut one of the scuppers too large and broke part of the bulwark.  Tried to glue it but it looks pretty bad.  My solution right now might be to cut out the bulwark from the top of the scuppers and then fashion a handrail and gangway at that position later in the build.  I wasn't planning on kit bashing but at this point I'm not sure if I have a choice.

As always, have to remember, practice and patience.

[FlounderFillet5]

Edward,

 

Can you post a picture of the damage? Pictures make it easier to give good advise.

 

Without a picture, I can only say that you could use some of the scrap wood that is wider than the bulwark thickness to make the repair. It may be feasible to cut out the bulwark in the damaged area, glue in the scrap wood, and then sans it down until it matches the bulwark thickness. Once complete, I imagine you could just recut the scuppers and move on with the project from where you left off. Just an idea.

 

Regards,

[HIPEXEC]

One thing about this hobby is you get very good at error corrections. I wound up getting very creative in fixing mistakes I made along the way. It keeps the brain from deteriorating. I'm an long time aviator and we used to say "flying is a series of error corrections....the first error you make is taking off...!" The same goes for model ship building.

[EBEgan]

Thank you for the tips gentlemen.  I think I've solved the problem with an excess of wood filler, some re-painting is in order but hopefully this will work.

[EBEgan]

I've had to put this project on the back burner for a little while due to an insane work schedule.  Hopefully be back at it soon!

[Omega1234]

Hi Edward

 

Totally understand your predicament! Work pays the bills, unfortunately.

 

We'll be waiting to hear back from you when you're ready.

 

All the best

 

Patrick

[the learner]

Don't want to let that back burner to stay unlit for too long....too hard to re-light, I know!

[EBEgan]

Well, an election season, a job transfer and a new house later I'm back, but I've also moved to a Syren build because I really did not enjoy the solid hull...new updates coming soon.