Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72

[marktiedens]

Well,I decided to modify those stern pieces a little further. The upper piece should have a bit of a slant at the rear edge instead of perfectly vertical,so out with the belt sander & beveled the rear edge. Much better now I think. Thanks to keith w for the heads up on this. Now I have to modify the bottom piece to fit again,which means re-carving those grooves for the metal bands.

 

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Mark,

 

Very nice detailed work and explaination on what looks like a difficult (and scary to me!) build.

 

Frank

[marktiedens]

Thanks,Frank. Yes,this is not your ordinary run of the mill kit. Many parts have to be formed & shaped with the materials provided so it is a bit of a challenge. 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Well,here is transom support version 2.0 - better angle on the rear edge,more room for the gun port,& lower piece re- cut for the metal bands. I am pretty happy with it now. Gotta love these re-do`s.As always,thanks for looking in & hitting the like button

 

 

Mark

 

 

 

[Keith_W]

Looks perfect, Mark. Did you try dry fitting the decorations to make sure they are OK? 

[marktiedens]

They seem to be an acceptable fit - still fiddling with them.

 

Mark

[Greg.Ashwood]

Howdy Mark

I am very impressed with your neatness and ability to do the difficult part of Transom of this great ship.

All the best

Greg

[piratepete007]

After almost eight years, I am revisiting my interpretive notes on the Euromodel Royal William and starting to re-write much of it by visiting every post on the MSW for this ship. I hope to include some notes but mainly photos from other builds to include so that others can get an immediate overview of different approaches made by different builders. It is a very humbling experience indeed from what I have seen so far. So in the near future, that will be re-posted back onto the Euromodel web site. I will be approaching the individual 'postees' to ask their permission ! This ship is a mighty ship because it caters for the individual who wants to make their own interpretation in their build. It just seems to throw that idea straight at the builder.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

Greg - thanks for your nice comment. It has been a bit of a challenge,but I am enjoying it. Best wishes to Greg the peg leg sailor.

 

Pete - very well said. Along with your info it`s also great that other modelers of this ship can offer each other their observations & suggestions on how to approach different aspects of building it.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Hi all - I thought I would take a little break from that nasty transom & work on the rudder. The laser cut rudder supplied in the kit has the front edge straight with no cut outs for the hinges  - forgot to take picture  . The thickness of the hinges seemed to make the rudder sit too far away from the post,so I cut out the parts of the rudder where the hinges fasten to inset them. After bending the hinges to fit around the curves of the hull I painted them black & glued them all in place. I decided to go ahead & mount the rudder before installing the transom support - much easier. The rudder is glued in place,but if it were to turn the rounded front edge would keep it from binding against the post. Now back to the transom..........

 

 

 

Mark

 

 

[Beef Wellington]

That is a good looking rudder!  Nicely done.

[Keith_W]

No cut outs for hinges? That's strange, my rudder definitely had cut outs for hinges! Gee Mark, you have already had one error with your kit. I wonder if Euromodel is now not cutting cut outs in the rudder, or you came out the losing end with Euromodel's QA. 

[marktiedens]

Jason - thanks very much.

 

Keith - That`s right - the front edge was perfectly straight. If I had just glued the hinges on without filing out the insets there would have been about a 5mm gap between the rudder & the post. It could have been the way they made the rudder at the time mine was made. My plan sheet does not show the insets. The overall views on the plans show about a 1mm gap between the rudder & the post. The hinges would have to be awfully tiny to accomplish that with no insets .

 

 

Mark

Edited April 27, 2016 by marktiedens

[Keith_W]

Hmm, maybe I am being retarded. I did the rudder so long ago (and it has been covered up with masking tape for so long) that I don't remember whether there were notches for hinges or not. Whatever it was, I don't remember cutting them out. 

[piratepete007]

Mark,

 

Hope this makes sense ... the rudder blade typically had bearding (i.e. short sections of timber added along the forward edge between the pintles). This is not shown in the drawings for the Royal William. What I think most people do is to cut notches into the supplied blade.

Edited April 27, 2016 by piratepete007

[marktiedens]

That makes sense - thanks Pete. I see also that the plans show a taper on the rudder - from top to bottom & front to back. I did not taper mine due to all the hinges being the same width. It`s a minor detail that would not be noticed anyway.

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

Just a 'one-liner" but had to put it somewhere .... looking at the cramped height conditions surrounding the Main Deck capstan on the Royal William and thought it had to be a mistake .... the drawings showing only 1600 mm. height from deck surface to underside of Quarter Deck above ? Did some research and found military records of the time showing the average height of males during this era .... and guess what ? It was only 1600 mm or 63 inches. So 1600 mm. is a passable height after all (maybe as long as you kept your head down a bit !) Gee, the average height of males has increased over the years !!

 

Pete

[S.Coleman]

Cutting notches into the supplied blade will make the rudder not protrude from the stern post the correct distance? It will look shorter? I added timber on either side of the hinges for this reason. My two cents

[marktiedens]

Scott - if I had added timber to the front edge the rudder would be too long. As it is now it matches the width & spacing shown on the plans.

 

 

Mark

[S.Coleman]

Its looking great. Neat work.

[marktiedens]

Thank you very much Scott.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

A little update - lower transom almost finished. I am waiting to see what Chuck at Syren is going to come up with for gun port hinges - the kit hinges are not very good. They seem to be a bit short for the bottom 2 rows of lids. In the mean time I am doing a little treenailing - not any particular pattern,mostly just at the plank ends. Some are actual ends,but most are just scribed on the planks. I didn`t make the lower part of the transom as concave as some others,but I think it looks ok.

 

 

 

Mark

 

 

[Keith_W]

Not planning to paint the lower hull white, Mark? 

 

BTW if you send a PM to rshousha, he has some RW hinges. I have some. I think that Brian the Extraordinare also has some. I don't think he is planning to use his, so you may be able to get it from him. 

Edited May 4, 2016 by KeithW

[marktiedens]

Keith - not painting the bottom. First,I am not that good a painter. Second,I prefer the look of natural wood whenever possible.

 

Rick - sending you a PM.

 

Mark

[donrobinson]

Mark: I don't want to overtake your log with pictures, but I have a set of Rick's hinges and they are exceptional!!

[marktiedens]

Thanks Don - I am in the process of ordering them.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Hi all thanks for looking in. Progress has been slow due to outdoor activities but I did manage to get the transom support finished.Now on to the lower row of windows.

 

 

 

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Mark,

 

The stern section of your model is looking beautiful!

 

Looking forward to seeing the completed stern!

 

Frank

[MEPering]

Hi Mark.  I feel your pain with the weather being so good for the last few days, it doesn't give us much time to model.  Lots of yard work and gardening here.

 

I do have a question though... Are those lower transom carvings actually castings?  They look super, and with what did you paint them if so?  Thanks.

 

Matt

[marktiedens]

Thanks Frank - the stern is so far the most difficult part to do.

 

Hi Matt from another central Iowan. All the decorations are metal castings. They are somewhat soft so they can be bent to fit. All the windows are also metal castings. I am drilling & filing out the panes so I can use liquid window maker - looks much better than just painted. You can see an example in post #53. The paint is a Vallejo game color called polished gold - it`s the best gold paint I have found.

 

Mark