Marie Jeanne by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:50 scale

[ofencer29350]

http://www.chasse-maree.com/histoire-de-peche-terre-neuvas-islande/2231-ar-vag-tome-1.html

[Jack12477]

Ofencer29350, thanks for the info and link - any chance there's an English language version, I can't read or speak French.

[Jack12477]

George, yes, I find on this build when I can't get a reliable measurement off the plans that I'm relying heavily on Jack's Relativity Principle to locate the part on the ship - you know that one ! Plans and parts list called for part # 55 to be 2x2x7 mm - after I cut the piece out I found that it would not fit under the caprail and deck - so I had to trim it to 2x2x5 mm to make a snug fit..................  Ah yes ! Fun !!!!!!!!!

[ofencer29350]

http://www.chasse-maree.com/histoire-de-peche-terre-neuvas-islande/2231-ar-vag-tome-1.html

i don't think there is an english  one but  there is a lot of pictures they speak by themselves!

i must say there is not so much englishman who build this type of kit,in britain,it's a part of  our history!

everyone had on his family a fishing man....

[Jack12477]

Update:

 

Moving on, I decided to skip the numbered steps and do things out of sequence. The small boat that sits above the deck was next - the parts list said it was wood preformed boat to be planked with 0.6 mm walnut/mahogany veneer - turns out the made some changes without updating the parts lists - the preformed boat is diecast white metal and quite heavy.  In 20-20 hindsight I should have grabbed the cans of model spray paint and just painted it but I followed the plans and planked it.  Had to used Medium gap filling CA. Photos follow :

 

 

Of course it also came with a pre-cast metal rudder assemby and the pivots were pre-cast on the boats stern so some of the wood trip, like the stern post, could not be added.

 

After completing the deck boat, I moved on to the hatches, which seemed like a simple task at first. But trying to read the "picture book" was challenging. After cutting out the 4 pieces that made up the front, back and sides, the challenge was to determine if the sides go inside the front and back strips or outside the front and back strips.  Well made a mistake twice and had to get out the isopropyl.  Also determining where to place the roof rail(s) was a fun challenge. Old eyes don't focus too well on picture that show the item at an angle rather than straight on.

 

Pictures of the finished hatches follow

 

 

Temporarily installed on the deck - not glued down

 

Edited January 9, 2016 by Jack12477

[Jack12477]

In the Captain's Lounge Questions/Instructions section someone started a Tips on Photographing Models topic.  One of the posters, Maturin, posted a "refreshing viewpoint" as one responder phrased it. So in keeping with Maturin's request, I will digress a bit and post some photos of my work area and jigs.

 

I picked up this nice razor (blade) saw and micro mitre box from MicroMark some time ago. Works nicely except the mitre box is so tiny it is difficult to hold while also holding down the wood to be cut. I find the tool is great for making repetitive cuts. (and yes in spite of the "broken" blade pieces it cuts just fine - the saw blade is a razor blade with saw teeth).

 

So I decide to build a jig to hold the mitre box. I picked some 1/4" x 3" poplar cut to the exact length of the mitre box (came out to a piece 2 1/2" x 3 1/2"), then using my Veritas (Lee Valley) micro router plane I slowly made a dado to hold the mitre box. Once the depth and width were cut I capped of the ends with 1/4" x 1/4" basswood strips to lock the mitre box into the dado (side to side). Then I added another piece of 1/4" poplar cut-down to just over 1" in width and to the length of the entire jig with end caps. Clued it to one edge to act as a "bench hook". Now it locks onto the edge of the table without resorting to clamps which get in the way with such a small tool.

 

I also decided to make a couple of small portable table tops, borrowing on one I saw in a previous post by Jay Modeler12 (at least I think that's where I got it - I downloaded his photo but lost the back link to where it came from). At any rate I made a few embellishments to his design.  I made two tables - one is 12" x 12" and the other is 12" x 24", both are made from 1/2" Nordic birch plywood pre-cuts I picked up in Michaels craft store (I find the pre-cuts cheaper and easier that cutting down a larger piece). I added a couple of hold-downs to both. The magnets are strip magnets with a peel-off sticky I got in Lowes. Also added some short pieces of 3/4" PVC plumbing pipe to act as holders for small scraps of wood. The green pad you see in the photos is one of those OLFA brand rotary cutting mats you can purchase in JoAnns or Michaels or most any craft goods store

 

The smaller table:

 

 

The larger table:

 

 

I find both sizes useful, the large one has the advantage of more work space laterally. Both fit nicely on my two workbenches.

 

I hope some of our newer members find these useful in their modeling efforts.

Edited January 9, 2016 by Jack12477

[Canute]

Nice work tops, Jack.

[Jack12477]

Thanks Ken. 

[captgino]

Pretty cool work tables. It is nice to have everything easily reachable.

I am always looking for the one little thing.

Great build log as well. I love these fishing ships from Brittany.

[Burroak]

Great job on your boat and your well organized!

 

Greg H.

[ofencer29350]

Update:

 

Moving on, I decided to skip the numbered steps and do things out of sequence. The small boat that sits above the deck was next - the parts list said it was wood preformed boat to be planked with 0.6 mm walnut/mahogany veneer - turns out the made some changes without updating the parts lists - the preformed boat is diecast white metal and quite heavy.  In 20-20 hindsight I should have grabbed the cans of model spray paint and just painted it but I followed the plans and planked it.  Had to used Medium gap filling CA. Photos follow :

 

IMG_4513.JPGIMG_4510.JPGIMG_4516.JPGIMG_4518.JPG

 

Of course it also came with a pre-cast metal rudder assemby and the pivots were pre-cast on the boats stern so some of the wood trip, like the stern post, could not be added.

 

After completing the deck boat, I moved on to the hatches, which seemed like a simple task at first. But trying to read the "picture book" was challenging. After cutting out the 4 pieces that made up the front, back and sides, the challenge was to determine if the sides go inside the front and back strips or outside the front and back strips.  Well made a mistake twice and had to get out the isopropyl.  Also determining where to place the roof rail(s) was a fun challenge. Old eyes don't focus too well on picture that show the item at an angle rather than straight on.

 

Pictures of the finished hatches follow

 

IMG_4521.JPGIMG_4532.JPGIMG_4531.JPGIMG_4530.JPGIMG_4523.JPG

 

Temporarily installed on the deck - not glued down

 

IMG_4525.JPG

hi

 

the challoupe will never being instaled on the deck but attached on rear of the boat because they must keep place for the fish

[Jack12477]

Captgino,  Greg (Burroak) Thanks.

 

Ofencer29350, thanks for the info.  The kit plans call for the boat (challoupe) to be mounted above the deck on an overhead rack which I have not constructed as yet.  Since this boat is metal and weighs about 3 oz (or about 82g) I think hanging it off the stern would make balancing the model on its stand a little difficult, centering it above the deck and over the keel would probably make for a better center of gravity for the finished model.

[mobbsie]

Hi Jack, ( that sounds so wrong )

 

Just found your log, read through it and your certainly on a roller coaster ride of discovery mate, with the lack of instruction and guidance from the plans I think your doing a great job.

 

If you have no objections Jack, I'll pull up a pew and follow along, I don't par-take in the fall over fluid so I'll bring a few Pepsi's with me.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Jack12477]

Welcome to the party Mobbsie.  Pepsi is fine - I tend to drive them also (perhaps too much).

[Jack12477]

Hi Jack, ( that sounds so wrong )

 

mobbsie

 

Yes, one should not say that too loudly in an airport !

[ofencer29350]

a little picture to ilustrate what i said:

 

 

Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

[Jack12477]

Ofencer29350: Thanks for the photo and clarification

[Jack12477]

Small progress:  Constructed the rack to hold the small boat.   Was really glad I had the miniature miter box (shown in previous post) for this step. It made the job of repetitively cutting the leg brace elements very easy. 

 

Photos follow:

 

[Canute]

Very nicely done, Jack. That mini miter sounds like a good investment. I have an old clunky Xacto one and a plastic one from ? Too big for some of the wood we work with. More good ideas. Keep 'em comin'.

[Jack12477]

Thanks, Ken

 

I have the larger Xacto one also.  The mini came from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/micro-miter-box,11565.html  Buy the saw and blades separately. The blade is a double edge razor blade cut with micro-fine saw teeth.which cut with little effort. But if you get one, make yourself a small jig to hold it.

Edited January 12, 2016 by Jack12477

[Jack12477]

Update:  I've run into a small snag on the build.  The only instructions on the chain plates is the following photo; the plans do not show how the deadeye and chain plate are attached to each other, they only show placement of the chain plate/deadeye on the model. The parts list calls for a 0.3mm thick x 2 mm wide x 20 mm long piece of flat brass (part 50) and a 3.5 mm deadeye (part 51). 

 

I tried putting a loop in one end of the brass plate but still can't figure out how to attach the deadeye.

 

Photo of picture book instructions: The "detail" [if you can call it that] is in the small inset at the top of the larger photo. [ignore the strike outs that just my way of keeping track of what's been installed]

 

 

 

My interpretation:

 

 

Any suggestions ?

Edited January 12, 2016 by Jack12477

[GLakie]

It's hard to make anything decisive out of the photos in the plans, but if it were me, I think I'd solder the strop, or drill a hole for both ends of the strop, for the deadeye right onto the chainplate.

[mobbsie]

Hello Jack,

 

My solution would be to make a loop of 0.5mm wire, place your deadeye into the loop and tighten with two twists, the loose ends after the twist I would pass through the loop of the chain and pull thight, these can then be glued with resin or soldered. Cut off the remaining wire.

 

Just my meanderings mate, hope that helps.

 

Nice boat rack by the way.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Jack12477]

George, Mobbsie, Thanks ! 

 

George, yes the original is not much clearer than the scanned copy I posted  - the detail is unreadable.

 

Mobbsie, I think your solution will work.  I've probably been over thinking it.

[dgbot]

Jack, I would follow Mobbsies advice. The strop would either be a wire loop pinched and soldered or a becket with a pin.  My advice would be to take a look at photos of other craft of that time period and choose the one you need.

David B

[michael mott]

Jack You could try something like

 

this

or this

 

 

Michael

[dgbot]

Thanks for showing that photo Michael.  I did not find the one I needed to show off the becket.

David B

[michael mott]

David, the first picture actually does show one of the dead eyes with the looped wire as you suggested, I went looking for a picture of that process because it was how I first began, before making the strap type.

 

Michael

[Jack12477]

Thanks, Michael.  A picture is invaluable. Yes that may work for me.The deadeye on mine is 3.5 mm so I may have to find some thinner brass but I see how it works now. Thanks again.

[Jack12477]

Update:

 

Thanks Mobbsie, David and Michael for the advice and especially Michael for the photos.

 

Don't have quite the narrow brass bands shown in Michael's photos but do have some 24 gauge and 26 gauge brass wire I can use as a starter.  I used the heavier gauge wire to simulate the bolt(s) and the thinner for the strop. Bending the loop in the strop was done with a jewelry making pliers I picked up in one of the craft stores. The chainplate on the left in the photo below needs a little adjustment and all need a little cleanup with a Dremel or something. I used medium CA to cement them in place (haven't gotten a chance to practice soldering yet so I didn't want to risk it on this piece).

 

First attempt:

 

 

Current progress - nothing is glued down, just set in place to gauge overall appearance.