Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger

[Julie Mo]

All the keel planks need to be shaped into a trapezoidal shape and I did this by sanding using a sanding jig that I made. This was a piece of oak with a 2mm wide 1mm deep slot cut along its length. The 2mm x 2mm keel strips were place in this slot and the protruding 1mm was shaped by sanding along its length and at an angle to the surface of the oak. If you have a violin plane this might be better than sanding. The oak plank had other slots of differing thicknesses to take other planks. 

 

DSC01286.JPG

 

Thank you, once again, Keith!

 

The sanding jig looks like the way to go. 

 

I will also have to start from the deck, like you did, and work my way down.  I first need to find the push pins I bought.  Or buy some new ones.  Rubber bands don't seem to work so well in keeping the hull planks in place.

[KeithAug]

Julie - I'm please to be able to assist. There is a lot of relevant 1st and 2nd planking detail in my current build if you are interested - Altair - see below.

[Julie Mo]

Keith, I took a look at your present build, every page, every picture.  Awesome work!  I needed the fix.

 

The first planking is going pretty slowly.  I've only been able to lay a row or two a day.  We're so close to finishing the master bedroom and I am so tired of sleeping on a futon, the model build only gets my attention when I'm too tired to work on the house.  I still feel guilty for this taking so long, though.

 

What I started doing was putting a bevel on the edge of the planking so it would butt up tight to the one already laid.

 

When I did that, I could eliminate any gaps in the seam.  But I worried I might get into the width of the planking.

 

By the time the planks reached the stern, there was some pretty intense twist.  I did everything I could to get the planks to sit flush.  The stern cut I eyeballed because I couldn't find anywhere in the directions any dimensions or sketches.

 

This is as far as I am now.  I've toyed with using a violin plane to do the fairing.  I think I'll wait until all the planking is done until I start getting serious about that.

[KeithAug]

Julie - I think its looking pretty good. I have seen much more experienced builders producing far less uniform results. Well done so far. 

[Julie Mo]

Thanks, Keith.  I'm reminded of being back in school, learning a new subject, and not even knowing enough to ask an intelligent question.  So any feedback, complimentary or critical, is appreciated.  It's good to know you're on the right track but it's even better to know when you're going astray.

 

First thing I did this morning was lay another row.  I've got to do better than a couple of rows a day if I want to finish this in my lifetime. 

 

I'm not quite dead center on the cut.  The larger gap in the planks is most likely due to dried glue I missed scraping off. 

 

Before laying the next row I have been checking to make sure there is no glue slop that might keep the planks from butting up tight.  But the bevel would have helped.  This tells me I need to take more time on the final planking or I will not be a happy camper.

 

The bottom planks have had some fairing done to them but the top ones have not.  Again, putting on a bevel to the edge would have made this job look much nicer.

 

For some reason, seeing the bow form gets the sailing juices flowing.  I've been planing off the excess every couple of rows to see how it's shaping up.  This keeps me going.

 

When I started sailing back in the early 70s, I first learned about the J-Boats.  That pointed bow slicing through the waves had me right there, on one of those gorgeous boats, sailing a behemoth.  If anyone was ever foolish enough to let me step aboard a J-Boat, they would have to pry me off with a very large oar.

[KeithAug]

Julie - you are nearing the stage where you start to find that the planks want to bend across their thick / stiff direction as well as bending in the normal thin / flexible direction. this double bending creates the tendency to produce the clinker effect we have previously discussed. You have a choice as this situation starts to develop. You can either continue with the parallel planks as I did with Endeavour or start to shape the planks as I did with Altair. You can make your mind up as you progress. 

 

As you say it is important to make sure that you remove all glue from the last plank - particularly if you plan to leave it for a while. I tend to have a wet rag and a plank off cut handy (cut to a wedge). Once glued and pinned I immediately work along the line of pins - removing a few at a time and wiping the edge before replacing the pins and moving on to the next section. Once the whole plank edge has been cleaned I draw the off cut along the edge to remove any glue squeezed out by reinserting the pins.

[Julie Mo]

Still plodding along...

 

I've been trying to make a point of laying more than a couple of plank rows per day.  I really love the way this is looking and that motivates me.  But with all that's on my plate, I'm happy with whatever I can accomplish.

 

This was taken yesterday afternoon.  I think I added two or three more rows since then.  I was up at 5:00 AM laying the next row.  I was too tired to do anything else.  And I think I laid 2-4 more rows by the time I took this picture. 

 

What I find really cool is it feels like I'm actually building this magnificent yacht.  That's priceless.

 

It looks like I'm staying true to the centerline.  What I'm learning here is to cut the planks perpendicular to the centerline of the hull.  I hope I said that correctly.  If not, feel free to correct me.  Learning is better than remaining uneducated and clueless. In making that cut perpendicular, the planks on the other side can butt up tight.  That's the plan.  Hope it pans out.

 

I started trimming at the bow sort of willy-nilly but after several rows of planking were laid, I turned to using a violin plane to do the final rough trimming.  I trimmed the planks primarily to so the rubber bands didn't curl the plank over the edge and cause lifting against the hull.  Don't know of that's a proper method, but it seems to work for now.  The primary planking is allowing me to learn and experiment as I go without fear of making irreparable errors.

[Nirvana]

Julie, that looks so good. A friend of mine didn't put in material between the bulkheads and got problem with the planking.

[Julie Mo]

Keith,

 

So far I've been able to keep the clinking effect to an acceptable minimum.  I don't think fairing afterward will create any sand-thru.  What concerns me right now is the fact the distance from the plank I have pinned on the keel in the picture below is about 3.75" to the glued-on planking at the center and about 3.5" at either end of the glued-on planking.  That's about 1-1/2 plank widths.

 

I was looking at the photos on your Endeavour build and I didn't see any tapered planks but clearly I will have to do that soon if I don't want the planks to curve along the keel.

 

Per,

 

The balsa fill Keith recommended has made this phase of the project so much easier.  And I believe the fairing of the hull will go much better than if I was gluing planking only to the frames.  If I do another build, I will do the balsa fill again.

 

As an experiment, I soaked the tip of one plank in hot water to make it more pliable and pinned it over a sharp edge:

The sharp edge comes into play for the first time.  All the other planks have been laid over more gradually curving surfaces.

 

I'm going to let it dry and them see how it looks before gluing it.  But I was wondering, should that sharp edge exist?  Or should I file it down?

[KeithAug]

Julie

 

Re taper planks - I dint find I needed them. The planks seemed to straighten themselves up and lay quite nicely on the keel without curvature. 

 

You may remember I ruled lines on the hull to satisfy myself that I was happy with where the planks would fall.

 

 

I am not quite sure I understand your question re sharp edge but I would agree that as the planks approach the hull area just above the rudder you do get a sharp edge.

[Julie Mo]

I hope I get the same results as you did, Keith.  The measurements I took say I won't.

 

I was toying with an idea where at some point soon I would change the orientation of the planking.I was thinking running up and down, but with a degree of angle, so that the planks run somewhat along the leading edge of the keel. I'd have to experiment to see how that would work out with the narrow planks running along the keel.

[Julie Mo]

Here's how the "wrap" is working out:

 

I broke some of the wood fibers at the tightest part of the wrap.  I didn't soak it long enough.  But what's more important to me is am seriously deviating from how this part of the planking would normally be done?  The answer has to be "YES!" I can't imagine a shipyard attempting to do what I did here.  What I would expect is they would have laminated a beam for the keel and butted the planks up to that.

 

As far as being able to avoid tapering the planks, this is how it looks after having added only two rows after the last picture was taken:

The bow in the planks, both when seen from the side or above, is becoming more pronounced, when compared to how planks running straight fore and aft on the keel would be.

 

FWIW, I took a dry plank and laid it in vertical, to see how that orientation would look.  It snapped before I could get it to sit flush against the hull.  Bends this sharp obviously require steam bending.

[Nirvana]

Julie,

That's a very nice "wrap"

Beautiful done!

I know it's way down the list but how are you planning of attacking the mast, this considering the two parts that has to be joined and tapered?

[Julie Mo]

Julie,

That's a very nice "wrap"

Beautiful done!

I know it's way down the list but how are you planning of attacking the mast, this considering the two parts that has to be joined and tapered?

Thank you, Per!

 

I've already glued up the mast and done some tapering.  The instructions seem to show a circular mast but I read that the mast on the original Endeavour was aluminum.  I would think that even in 1934, aluminum masts were more oval in shape, similar to the ones on the boats I've sailed on, only a lot bigger.

 

So in tapering the mast, I am working toward that oval shape.  I've been switching tools, seeing what works best, and so far I've used a spokeshave, violin plane, shoulder plane, and several sanding blocks made from MDF and PSA sandpaper.  I'm finding it's like shaping a guitar neck - you just have to keep at it until you get it right.

[mikiek]

 

I was trying to find out just how big this boat may be. So I banded the pieces of the mast together and clamped the boom in place.  Where on earth can this behemoth go?  We only have 8' ceilings!

 

OK

 

Carry on...

 

 

You could dock it out back...that is a monster

[Nirvana]

Julie,

Decide where she is to stand, then open up the ceiling for the part of the master, or make her an Admiralty version, like up the first spreader.

Edited August 1, 2016 by Nirvana

[Julie Mo]

I hope my snail's pace isn't putting anyone to sleep.  Between the other irons I have in the fire and my inexperience with model building, I'm moving forward the best I can.

 

It's looking like the planks are beginning to line up a bit better with the imaginary line I hope to get them to...

 

 

Just aft of the rudder, I think what I'll do is create a piece, maybe mahogany, to cover the plywood and the ends of the planks...

I'll have to do some experimenting after I shape and plank the rudder to see how it looks.

 

On the bow, I'm thinking at some point I need to do something that will round it out a bit.  Maybe the time to do that is during the 2nd planking.

I've been setting a plane against the half of the hull that hasn't been planked and using that to create the finished edge. 

[mikiek]

I think you are doing great Julie. I have never really taken a close look at the yacht-style kits. The hull design appears very challenging indeed.

[Julie Mo]

I think you are doing great Julie. I have never really taken a close look at the yacht-style kits. The hull design appears very challenging indeed.

I think if you are in a hurry to finish, then yes, it's very challenging.  What I find is, it's more like the process makes you think.  And I'm really enjoying that.

 

I was just researching how wooden boats are built around the keel line.  I'm at the point on the bow where I either need to start using the mm 2x2 strips as shown in the directions or I could make up a mahogany laminate and do something like this

I could then butt up the mahogany planking to the new keel and shape it without fear of sanding through anything.

 

I'm going to look into that but first I'll have to make a steam box.  I have the steamer but I need a box small enough for the ship parts.

[Nirvana]

Julie,

Don't use steam, use a hair dryer and the heat from it, Chuck is using that method so it should work for you too.

However, with a steady pace you will be done sooner than you realise.

Looking good.

[GuntherMT]

Looking good to me.  As far as speed goes, you are making a lot more progress than I've been lately, so doing good!

[Julie Mo]

But Gunther, I started this back when the west was still wild.

 

I've been looking at the mahogany keel thing.  I found a better piece that I will never use for anything else, so I am willing to sacrifice it for the good of the sea.

 

I think my best bet is to rip thin strips and laminate a keel beam.  This may sound crazy to you pros but this is the nutty stuff we newbies do. 

 

The model has become my nirvana.  When the work around the house wears me out, the model is my Elysium. Yes, I am a warrior, now of the house variety.  

 

Since I didn't have time to start my keel project, I went for fairing the hull, at least what I have planked.  I figure this gives me a window, of sorts, to how much plank I have left before I sand through.

 

I started by laying pencil marks across the hull

 

Then I sanded, when time allowed, until I got to a decent fairing.  But it still needs some work. (I did cheat by applying mineral spirits to the wood.)

 

Not sure if you can see it, but toward the bow there's a dip, Gotta fix that.

 

What I found is while the balsa fill is a real benefit down the line, you have to be careful when fairing the hull pre-first planking.  Balsa sands off faster than plywood.  In the pinning process, many of the planks were depressed into the balsa that was over-sanded.  So the first planks needed a fair amount of fairing. 

 

On the plus-side, if I sand through, the balsa is still there for support.  The important thing is to make sure the hull is properly faired when the mahogany planks go down.

 

The farther I get, the more I love it.

[KeithAug]

Hi Julie

 

Much of the fun is in finding the problems and working out on how to make it better on the next build. I'd be surprised if you didn't sand through the 1st planking somewhere - its almost inevitable given the thickness of planks. As you say the balsa will save the day. Its really important to get the fairing of the 1st planking perfect. The mahogany planks are virtually a veneer and you have no scope for fixing irregulrities at that stage. 

 

When I do scratch builds I generally go for 1st planking .060 inch (1.5mm) thick and 2nd planking .040 inch (1mm thick). I find these thicknesses make the problem of sand trough unlikely. 

[Julie Mo]

Its really important to get the fairing of the 1st planking perfect. The mahogany planks are virtually a veneer and you have no scope for fixing irregularities at that stage. 

 

When I do scratch builds I generally go for 1st planking .060 inch (1.5mm) thick and 2nd planking .040 inch (1mm thick). I find these thicknesses make the problem of sand trough unlikely. 

Thanks, Keith.  You confirmed what I was thinking - the fairing on the first planking has to be perfect.  I haven't sanded through yet, but I won't be surprised if I do.

 

I posted a question in the "Building, Framing..." section about making a laminated keel.  In my mind's eye I am seeing the lambeam blending in with the mahogany planking like this:

 

I'd have to shave off some of the plywood but if I could accomplish something like above, it would be worth it.

 

This is just a dry run with three strips of mahogany:

[KeithAug]

Julie

 

I am laminating the keel on Altair - simulating what was done on the original. I keep thinking I won't repeat the approach on future builds. Altair has a much fuller keel than Endeavour and I suspect Endeavour would be easier than Altair. That said I didn't experience any problems 2nd planking the keel on Endeavour and hence I think I would repeat this method. That said you should do what you think you would prefer - its all part of the learning experience.

 

[Julie Mo]

Thanks for posting those pictures, Keith. 

 

It looks like you took full width planks and shaped them around the keel. I would think they would break along the grain.  That's why I was looking into making up a laminated keel.

 

After I complete the planking on the other side, to the same point I am on the first side, I'll revisit the idea.  I realize I'm jumping all over but sometimes I only have 5 or 10 minutes to play before the house starts calling me.  We're still living in a construction zone.

[Jaager]

You could make up the keel off the boat.  Using a jig - plywood or glued up scrap cut and sanded to match the inside of the keel.

- a second piece that is the shape of the outside of the keel.  The wet layers of the keel sandwiched and clamped between the inside and outside jigs

until dry, The keel should then lay naturally on the hull. 

When the keel is dry from the wet clamping - you could fit the bottom two layers on the hull and drill holes for pins or bamboo dowels

thru the keel layers into the hull spine.then glued up and clamp the layers  to set.  After the glue up - the pins fit into the holes and used to site the keel.  The outside lamina would hide the pins and keel would be more secure than if using glue alone.

[KeithAug]

Julie - yes I just used the full mahogany plank and laid them along the keel. They were so thin that they easily took on the shape of the keel without splitting. 

[Dee_Dee]

Julie,

 

I'm currently building the Corel Dragon which has a similar hull style.  Your thoughts about a laminated keel is what I did with the Dragon keel.  However, I laminated the keel as the very first step of this build.  Here's what the Dragon false keel looked like this out of the box.  

 

If I was going to paint the hull, I'd just add one layer of 1/64" walnut to minimize the erosion of the basswood.  But since this hull will be 'au natural',  I altered the false keel before starting the build.  I removed ~1/8" of the false keel and then I built it back up with layers of 1/64" walnut and CA glue.  And this is how the false keel looked before I started building.  The mast shoe is a very snug fit!       

 

Getting back to your original question:  Yes, it's possible to adjust the false keel.    I'm just about done with the first planking and I had to do this on the walnut under the stern section.  The walnut turned dark and didn't match the second planking.  I removed the walnut and added back a few layers of walnut.  

 

Here's a photo of the bow with the first planking.  I trimmed a bit of the first planking, to make sure the second planking will have a smooth and even run and landing. 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Dee Dee

Edited August 4, 2016 by Dee_Dee

[Julie Mo]

Julie - yes I just used the full mahogany plank and laid them along the keel. They were so thin that they easily took on the shape of the keel without splitting. 

I was playing with the mahogany planks and it was hard to believe they would lay over that curvature without splitting but I not about to doubt you.  You're the master.

 

DeeDee, thanks for those pictures!  I love what you did. I've used CA glue with inlays and fill on guitar necks I've made but so far haven't used any on the model build.  I'll have to keep that in mind as I plod along.