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HMS Snake by Davemc - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/64


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It looks good, however, you don't normally pin the second planking. Good luck!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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It looks good, however, you don't normally pin the second planking. Good luck!

Hi Davemc

 

You can hide the pinholes by using wooden nails after full planking. This will give the hull a more original look. Using woodfiller is not bad for the first planking, so you can create a very clean surface for the visible planks, well done!

 

Regards

Gerhard

Problems just mean: solutions not yet found

 

Models in progress

SMS DANZIG

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12842-sms-danzig-1851-by-gerhardvienna-radio-150-scale/

USS CAIRO

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13282-uss-cairo-by-gerhardvienna-live-steam-radio/

Baby Bootlegger 1/10

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13625-baby-bootlegger-110-radio-by-gerhardvienna/

 

Swiss paddlesteamer RIGI 1848 1:50, after plans from the Verkehrshaus Zürich, rescaled to original length

Anchor tugboat BISON, 1:50, plans from VTH, scratch

Finished models

See-Ewer ELBE, Constructo kit 1:48

German fastboat after plans from german Reichskriegsmarine measure unknown (too ugly to show up!)

German traffic boat for battleships WW2, 1:50, after plans from Jürgen Eichardt, scratch

German Schnellboot TIGER P6141 VTH plans, scratch

 

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Dave, good to see a new HMS Snake build, will follow your progress, you look to be off to a solid start.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Looks good!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Two problems the carronades when assembled foul the top of the gun port.

I bought brass carronade barralls from Caldercraft but they don't come with any method to attach to the bed only have a small hole in the base.

 

Photos attached.

 

Suggestions please

IMG_0514.JPG

IMG_0515.JPG

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In your first picture the carriage for the carronade is angled up towards the gun port. I cannot see what you have done wrong in this picture but it should be roughly parallel with the deck.

 

The  hole in the bottom of the brass carronade in for an eyebolt (supplied if you buy the kit with the carriage). Once fitted it should mount on the carriages supplied in the kit in the same way as the white metal ones.

 

Hope that explanation is understandable and of help.

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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Thanks Glenn, I think I may need to remove the sills unless someone has a better suggestion.

 

I bought the barrels, not a kit, to be honest the kit is out of my financial reach, I expected the eyelet to come with them, and then use the carriage that came with the Snake kit.

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Just pulled my kit off the shelf; I have not looked at it for18 months while building the Etoile. I have just started the first planking. The bottoms of your gun ports do look a bit high. I bought a pack of 2 carronade kits to see if I wanted to use them or not. It has the advantage of plans to let you know how the barrel is meant to be mounted. These do not have that Y shaped bit of metal that attaches the carriage to the sill. Instead the carriage is slightly longer and attaches, via a pin, to a bit of wood on the deck. I suggest instead of attaching these to the sill you move them back  a couple mm and fit them to the deck. See pictures towards the end of the HMS Sophie build log. May have to put in some padding to keep the front up. The bed of the carriage should be fairly level otherwise it affects the dynamics as the gun recoils. Also Pulling the gun out up that slope in your picture would break the gun crews backs. Doubt anyone would notice the difference unless they were a Navy historian.

 

I agree its a very expensive option and, now I have seen them, why I will probably stick with the white metal pieces. Though they need some neatening up.

 

Make some eyelets out of some spare brass rod supplied in the kit. Not sure what the sizes are in the kit, but their should be one with a fairly good fit in that hole. Or find some single strand copper wire, remove the insulation, and use that. Copper is easier to bend. Nothing like a bit of improvisation.

 

Glenn

 

Current Builds

Scottish Maid, V108 Torpedo boat

 

Future Builds

Snake (Caldercraft)

 

Previous builds

HMS Shark (Sergal), Sirene (Coral), Armed Pinnace (Panart), Etoile Schooner (Billings)

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Thanks again.

 

I think I will do as you suggest and mount the guns to the deck, I have just experimented and can make an extension to the front of the carriage that looks similar to yours.

 

Some home made eyelets also seem to be a good idea.

 

Thanks for the help

 

Dave

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Yeah I'm working on snake too,  I did the measurements and fitting the Carronade to to deck instead of the gun port cill is really the only way to go.  I was wondering what material to use but you just answered the question for me, Lime wood strip.  Good work, keep it up!

 

 

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Completed the Bowsprit and Jiboom, but not fitting them yet as I am too likely to damage them.

 

Fitting the Chain Plates now before starting the masts at which point I hope time repairing my mini lathe will be rewarded!

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  • 2 months later...

Hi again Davemc.

I'm seeing that ypu have finished the standing rigging, am I right?

What's your plan for your next steps?

Placing and fixing all the yards permanently or fixing the yards of each mast working from bow to stern for example?

Thanks.

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when completed and doing a tidy up of the ship I intend using starch on the foot ropes, but only when finished as my large clumsy hands and fingers keep bashing things. To help with the footropes I also made a spacer from dowel, it fits between the foot rope and yard when tightening the ropes.

 

I have fitted all yards to the mast, completed the rigging of the gaff boom etc to the mizzen and the spirit-sail to the jib.

I am now working from the fore yards to the stern, having nearly completed these, so soon to tackle the main yards.

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