Trabakul by donrobinson - FINISHED - MarisStella - 1:32 scale

[cobra1951]

Hi Don

Those new little additions you have created look awesome

[mrshanks]

Excellent details Don!!

[donrobinson]

Hi Bob, Thanks for the compliment. They were a lot of fun to build, one of my favourite parts this hobby

[donrobinson]

Well Hello Mike, good to hear from you. Thanks. Hopefully your shipyard is coming along and will be open soon.

[donrobinson]

Good morning Lawrence, and Thanks. I was happy how the hinges turned out, this was my first attempt at soldering so it took a few tries until I got it right

[mrshanks]

Hi Don.  Since you asked, here are a couple pics.  The foundation slab was poured this week.  Framing starts Monday!!  The shop is 28'x40' and includes a conditioned second floor for model kit, wood, and parts storage.  It should be finished by around New Year's.  The 2nd picture is the view I will have from my main bench!!

 

 

 

[EJ_L]

That is going to be a very nice shop and what a view! Great things will happen in there!

[donrobinson]

Wow Mike, that is awesome!! Thanks for sharing the pictures. Looks like it is going to be plumbed, good idea. You'll be set for life there, you will love it in the country I know I sure do. How many acres?

[mrshanks]

Thanks guys.  The shop has a toilet, a big basin sink, hot and cold running water.  It also has central air and heat.  We are sharing a 53 acre farm with friends.  We both built new houses here.  He flys R/C airplanes and rides dirt bikes.  I build model ships and ride dirt bikes.  Paradise!!!

[donrobinson]

Will my cot be on the main floor or upstairs with your wood supply?  

[riverboat]

Hi Don... just catching up... really nice work on the hatches and hinges, and I really like your ladders.I like the way you put them together.

Mine always  come out kind of crooked with the steps.when they slot those sides they never really match up when you put the steps in.

Next time I think I'll try your way..... Did that cherry wood come with the kit?

 

Frank

[donrobinson]

Hi Frank and Thanks. I really can't take too much credit for the ladders  this is MarisStella's design I just supplied the glue  , but it is a much nicer way of building ladders. MarisStella does supply cherry planking with this kit, the final layer of planking on the deck will be cherry from the kit. Some of the cherry I used was mine and I am thinking of replacing the bulwark stanchions with cherry rather than use the kit walnut, still undecided with this thought

[riverboat]

Wether you take credit or not you certainly did an excellent job of putting them together..... looks like a really well thought out kit..... Now I better get

back to finishing up my not so well thought out kit

 

Frank

Edited November 4, 2016 by riverboat

[mikiek]

Don - just catching up with your log. Beautifully executed deck pieces!

 

I am curious - the dowel you used for the porthole covers, what was the diameter of that compared to the bit you used to drill them out? Any problems doing that?

[mikiek]

On that same topic. As a complete newbie to lathe work, what do you use to part something that small (and I suppose fragile)?

 

Thanks

[donrobinson]

Hi Mike, thanks for stopping in. To answer your questions the dowel is 12 mm in diameter, the hole is 8.5 mm(21/64)( I did drill a smaller pilot hole first) the side walls are 1.75 mm thick and the piece sits 2.5 mm high. The tool I used to part them with is a parting tool, there are some pictures of it already but this one maybe shows a better angle of it(it is the unit on the right)

 

[mikiek]

That helps Don. Per Darrell's Niagara effort, I was going to try to make some bullseyes but couldn't figure out the parting.

 

Do you think it could be done with a softer wood like the beech dowels in a kit?

[donrobinson]

I think you should be ok, if you find them breaking I would just harden them with some ca and that should solve your problems

[mikiek]

Great idea!  I'll give it a shot. I've been using styrene tubing for the bullseyes, but it would be nice to have ones of wood.

[MarisStella.hr]

Hi Don,

this is a fine build (or more than that). This all looks all right... I wanted to say something about the deck : MarisStella's models has the real shape of the deck , this means that every deck has a Camber Curve and a Sheer Line Curve... In the other words, each deck is bent across the cross-section and along the longitudinal section... So the deck's base can not be done of some flat veneer or plywood... The deck's base is made of strips placed one by the other and glued to the tops of the bulkheads... After doing this, the base needs to be sanded , treated with the wood putty and polished... After this it is good to draw the lines where the deck beams should pass below the deck. Those lines show the places of the deck's planks connections. The lines help in the next step : The gluing, from the stern to the tip of the bow, 0,5x5mm strips on the so prepared deck surface (base). Start from the middle and go to the left and right ends of the construction. So, plank the deck following the top view shown in the plan.
   Before gluing to the deck surface, on each strip cut a thin cut. The cuts are shown in the top view of the deck. It will look like it is, instead of the one long strip, several small bars lined up in a row. This procedure will give a very realistic look to the deck later.

   Setting up the central part of the deck is the next. This element may be broken up in the places where the storage's hatch and the opening for the masts are. It has not to be formed of one part. When you glue it into place, by grinding inward the central part of the deck askew slightly. The deck rail, that frames the deck, is the next to be set...

   Then adjusting visually fitting of the deck is to be done , as in the plan, drilling holes Ø 0.3 mm on the deck (you can use a needle) and fill them with a mixture of glue for wood and brown acrylic paint. You can also use colored putty for wood. When the mixture is dry, sand and polish the deck.

   In this way You get the ideal shape of the deck as if it were nailed with wooden pegs.

   Now the answer to Your question comes : when You get the compact, hard deck, with all of the strips glued well to the base, only then You can cut all the openings into it. You need to be careful here....

   The other thing : The bow hatch cower is to be pushed a bit in to its opening , so it will not be so high as You mentioned...

Sorry for been speaking English not very well, but I think I made not many mistakes...

Cheers Don, let me be Your (imaginary, for this moment) friend over there, take Your beer and I will take my cold coffe...

Our Trabaccolo is completed and she is ready for the national competition... I will post the photos as soon as I get them...

 

Regards to all,

Zoran

[donrobinson]

Thanks so much for the tutorial Zoran, this makes things much clearer,  I have been away from here for awhile and just noticed this. I will try your methods and keep everyone posted.

 I will join you with the coffee, I have just completed an extra long birthday celebration so a beer is not really sounding that good yet  

[Seventynet]

And a belated Happy Birthday to you Don! Please continue with your splendid job on the Trabaccolo.

 

Ian

[donrobinson]

Thanks Ian, much appreciated

[donrobinson]

Hi Lawrence and Thanks. The lathe is really nice to have even though I don't use it to it's full capabilities yet. As far as being justifiable, mine has not reached that point, but when I retired I had a one time time chance to buy my tools and I went for it. So the bank may be able to take my house but the tools are mine!!!      

[donrobinson]

 Thanks you all for your visits and comments it is really appreciated

 

Well it's been a long time since my last update. After many hours on pondering as how to approach the deck planking I decided to go with Zoran's(MarisStella) approach. The biggest reason being is that there is a central 17 mm wide plank that goes down the middle it would cover up any mast holes, pawl holes and one of the hatch holes. So I decided to plank the deck first and do the cutting out later. Planking went real good, I changed it a little by putting walnut at the bow and stern a blood wood plank then the cherry planks. I went with a four plank rotation, a big thanks goes to Ulises Victoria for his great tutorial on how to plank a deck http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf.

 It was a lot of work and many hours but it is finally finished, scraped and sanded. She is approximately 175 mm x 520 mm at the largest points and took about 220 planks to cover it. Next I will cut out the main hatch then install the central strip followed by the remaining holes required.

I am really looking forward when all forms of planking are done  

 

Enjoy the pics

Take Care

 

Edited November 30, 2016 by donrobinson

[mikiek]

Looking great Don.

 

Zoran must thank you - because of your log I picked up a Maristella kit today.

[donrobinson]

Thanks Mike, what kit did you get?

[EJ_L]

Planking looks great! I really like the blood wood accent you put in there. I have quite a bit of it out in the wood pile. May have to rip some down and see what I can do with it on a future build.

 

I know that feeling of being ready for planking to be done. The first couple hundred planks is exciting, then the next couple hundred are routine and monotonous but those last couple hundred are tiring and you just want to be done!

[Seventynet]

Great job as usual Don. You need to grab a brew, sit back and admire your handiwork.

 

Ian

[rafine]

Really nice work on the planking Don.

 

Bob