DocBlake Posted March 21, 2016 Share #31 Posted March 21, 2016 Waiting patiently for more, John! We're in Phoenix, Arizona on a southwestern road trip so my shipyard is closed down for another week. Elijah and mrshanks 2 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share #32 Posted March 22, 2016 Thank you kind friends for looking in and posting "Thumbs Up" or whatever the accolade is . . . . . Doc, I know I am on your post card list - maybe it'll arrive tomorrow . . . . I love PHX. Today is the second day the Cougar Mountain Shipyard crew has been back at it - but with interruptions associated with startup after a shut down, so the days productivity was not something to really talk about . . . . Having said that, the main gun deck planking continued - but with a twist. Prudence has dictated the deck needs to be glued in place, then planked. That is understandable because it has to go in as two pieces to fit between the frames. You'll recall the quip that says to send the laziest man to do the most difficult job . . . . well, after testing the fit I determined the two deck halves fit tightly against one another when put in place on the ship. Having seen that, I used double sided tape to attach them that way to my large sheet of three quarter inch sheet glass and ran a deck plank -centered - down the length of the tight "crack" between the halves - however, I only glued the plank to one side. As of tonight I have planked a fair amount of the deck, both sides of center, having perhaps one or two days of additional work to complete it. Will it work when I disassemble it and move the two halves to the ship? I hope so! Take a careful magnified look. The seams are tight. If it doesn't go back together well, then shame on me . . . . but isn't being creative the American way? Respectfully, John WackoWolf, slow2cool, David Lester and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elijah Posted March 22, 2016 Share #33 Posted March 22, 2016 Welcome back John! The deck is looking good. That is a good idea, glueing the plank to one side! mtaylor 1 Quote -Elijah Current build(s): Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/ Completed build(s): Model Shipways Phantom http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376 Member of: The Nautical Research Guild N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share #34 Posted March 22, 2016 Many thanks for so many of you kind folks looking in and expressing your "likes". Between yesterday and today the planking was completed, sanded and given a couple of coats of matte varnish. The two deck sides that had been attached to a plate of glass with double sided tape were released without trauma. A steel edge was carefully laid on the glued side laying on the glass and the non glued side readily unhinged. Next, a test fit was done to see how well the two sides would go back together. The two sides rejoin well with only a very small amount of applied tension. The next event will be to open the frame slots, hatch openings, etc. At this point in time there is every reason to believe the two sides can be joined successfully when permanently installed on the ship - time will tell . . . . Respectfully, John Total Time 65 hours UpstateNY, mtaylor, WackoWolf and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donrobinson Posted March 23, 2016 Share #35 Posted March 23, 2016 Good stuff John, I have my fingers crossed for you mtaylor, Elijah and mrshanks 3 Quote Completed: MS-AVS, Amati Trabaccolo, Dusek ship's boat, AL-Mayflower, Batelina - MarisStella, MarisStella-Trabakul Liburnian Novilara - MarisStella, 17th Century Battle Station, Ragusian Galley-MarisStella Current: Barque Stefano - MarisStella, On Hold: Amati Pegasus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elijah Posted March 23, 2016 Share #36 Posted March 23, 2016 I hope it works to your satisfaction! Good luck! WackoWolf, mtaylor and mrshanks 3 Quote -Elijah Current build(s): Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/ Completed build(s): Model Shipways Phantom http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376 Member of: The Nautical Research Guild N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share #37 Posted March 23, 2016 (edited) Thanks Don & Elijah. The news is good and it did work. The two halves are presently under compression to keep the deck sections in firm contact with the frames below to which they are glued. No attempt was made to clean up below deck glue since that area is forever lost to sight. It can be seen here why so much weight was placed above until the glue cures. More glue was used than what I customarily apply. Here is the joint between both halves. It is not possible to see which side of the center plank was the open side. Additional coats of matte varnish will be added once the glue cures. I like a steel wool rubdown after the last varnish application for what to me gives a somewhat weathered appearance. Respectfully, John Total Time 71 hours Edited March 28, 2016 by John Maguire slow2cool, WackoWolf, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted March 23, 2016 Share #38 Posted March 23, 2016 I never doubted it would work, John. Good job! mtaylor and Elijah 2 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lester Posted March 24, 2016 Share #39 Posted March 24, 2016 Hi John, I didn't know the Revenge was a container ship! Your decking looks great. David Jmm2020, Elijah, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote Current Build - St. Roch, Billing Boats; HMS Agamemnon, Caldercraft (on hold) Previous Builds - Armed Virginia Sloop, Model Shipways; Constitution, Model Shipways; Rattlesnake, Mamoli; Virginia Privateer, Marine Model Co, restoration; Prince de Neufchatel, Model Shipways; Charles W. Morgan, Model Shipways; Pride of Baltimore II, Model Shipways, Bluenose, Model Shipways (x2); Niagara, Model Shipways; Mayfower, Model Shipways; Shamrock V, Amati; HMS Pegasus, Victory/Amati Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share #40 Posted March 26, 2016 (edited) Doc & David, thank you for your comments. Thank you for the many look ins by others. The two part deck was prepped for installation in the ship. This is how it looked after removal from the thick glass plate to which it was attached for the planking process. Only one side of the centerline plank had been glued in place at that time so that I could separate the two halves to put into the ship. This brings the total number of installed decks to three overall and planking a fourth is underway. The join up appears to be satisfactory when looked at closely. The heads up from other builders was a great help in my choice of how to deal with this. I think I am beginning to look forward to a task that is different than planking decks, though there remain others yet to do. Respectfully, John Total Time 78 hours Edited March 28, 2016 by John Maguire UpstateNY, DocBlake, WackoWolf and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DenPink Posted March 26, 2016 Share #41 Posted March 26, 2016 Hi John When you are doing the decks and mostly before gluing. Make sure you put your masts in place to make sure they fit, and the ones that have a cant on them are correct. Denis. Elijah 1 Quote Complete: Sovereign of the Seas - Mantua 1:78 scale Current build: Euro Model "Royal William" Scale 1:72 HMS "Revenge" Victory Model (Amati) Scale 1:64 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted March 27, 2016 Share #42 Posted March 27, 2016 Great progress, John. I'm really enjoying this build log! Elijah 1 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share #43 Posted March 29, 2016 Thanks Denis for the heads up. I shall follow your advice. Doc, thank you for looking in. I have been so wrapped up with this that I've barely checked in on what the rest of you are doing - shame on me. I need to see what you're up to and by the way, your post card is probably in tomorrows mail because I haven't seen it yet . . . . . During the past couple of days I finished planking and permanently attached the slightly elevated deck aft of the gun deck. Between other tasks, I cut and attached the fascias at either end of this deck. Wood of the manual described width was not to be found so I milled what was necessary. The width of the forward facia had to be determined by temporarily prepositioning an upper deck support that straddles the ends of the piece. Since the picture was taken both facias have been trimmed down to deck height and varnished. The manual instructs temporarily placing some fore deck components in place and using their positions to draw planking guide lines on the deck. Instead, after positioning the pieces I used them as a guide to permanently glue cross ship pieces of deck planking - that way I was assured of the fit. There is too much interpretation of pencil line position/thickness to work well for me. In this picture you can see the deck plank glued to the forward side of the bulkhead. And here is the deck plank I glued on the aft side of the bulkhead. Doing it this way worked best for me and I was able to obtain a very flush fit by forcing the planks against the bulkhead and clamping them there while the glue dried. Later, when the glue set I began to plank the fore deck. My Byrnes sander is a miracle machine for fine tuning the length of the planks that are set between the cross ship pieces. I really like this kit and look forward to working on it each day. Some days, like today, are slow in visible progress because I need to wait for glue to dry. I do not use the down time to prepare future tasks but rather take the time to do other things - such as reading ahead - over and over. I further decided I don't like my former technique of using steel wool as a final finish for the decks. Today I added a couple of coats of matte to all the reachable decks and am very pleased with their overall appearance. Respectfully submitted, John Maguire Total time 90 hours slow2cool, DocBlake, WackoWolf and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted March 29, 2016 Share #44 Posted March 29, 2016 Great progress, John! She is really coming together nicely. Keep posting. Elijah 1 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share #45 Posted March 30, 2016 Thanks Doc . . . I opted to plank the foredeck in place. I had no easy way to duplicate the ships camber while working on my glass sheet and was concerned that I'd open the plank to plank seams by putting them in place on a flat sheet and then moving them onto the cambered ship frames. This is what the planking operation looks like. A mornings work to get all the foredeck planks in place. My hat is off to those ahead of me who shaped these two holes. It took me all afternoon with a diamond file. Respectfully Submitted, John Maguire Total Time 98hours DocBlake, UpstateNY, slow2cool and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donrobinson Posted March 30, 2016 Share #46 Posted March 30, 2016 Nice work John, what are the holes for? The one I'm guessing is for the for mast, WackoWolf and Elijah 2 Quote Completed: MS-AVS, Amati Trabaccolo, Dusek ship's boat, AL-Mayflower, Batelina - MarisStella, MarisStella-Trabakul Liburnian Novilara - MarisStella, 17th Century Battle Station, Ragusian Galley-MarisStella Current: Barque Stefano - MarisStella, On Hold: Amati Pegasus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share #47 Posted March 30, 2016 Thanks Don. Thank you to the many others who are responding with "Like". Yes, the round hole is for a mast and the eliptoid is for an off center bowsprit. Respectfully, John Elijah, mrshanks, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share #48 Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Thank you folks for the many LIKES . . . . Amati supplied small 4 mm pieces to go between the forward frames that would define the bearding line. In their construction manual it could be seen that planks making the extreme curve close to the bow had flat spots between the frames that were the result of them not following a rounded lay. I opted to use balsa fillers in lieu of the supplied components. Initially I tried to economize on the amount of balsa by cutting it cleverly but I wasn't clever enough so with version 2.0 ended up using full rectangular inserts. The following day I chewed up the overhang to the extent possible with a small grinder, then using a sanding block and 60 grit paper worked the port side down to shape. Another day and both sides are complete. Now I get a nice rounded fair lay with test planks. The balsa at the absolute front area will need tweaking where the planks would meet the stem but I'll deal with that at that time. I don't want to do it now and accidentally remove too much balsa. Respectfully submitted, John Maguire Total Time 108 hours (I am slow) Edited April 1, 2016 by John Maguire Jmm2020, Rainbow, catopower and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted April 1, 2016 Share #49 Posted April 1, 2016 Outstanding job on the blocking, John. The Revenge has a rather rounded bow so they will help a lot in keeping the planking from "flattening" between bulkheads. If you still have access to the Lauck Street Forum (I've been banned!) check my build log for "Swift" to see what flattening looks like. In that build, the flattening was the result of bulkheads being far apart and the planking being wet when laid rather than because of a bluff bow. Elijah and mrshanks 2 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share #50 Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Doc, thanks . . . Request Help: One of you folks mentioned that you are working on REVENGE rigging, I don't recall who or in what thread you made the comment. If you find this post, would you please be kind enough to explain this square foredeck hole that I believe is intended for the jeering tackle post? Specifically, on page 77 of the manual, lower right corner there is a note that applies to the hole in the grate in the deck above the one I am showing here. It refers to the rigging plans. I find it on rigging plan page 15 as item 9. It appears that that the lines pass through the hole in the grate and terminate on what appears to be a post sticking out of the hole shown in my photo. Looking at page 75, bottom right corner I see a main yard jeer post part 60. Is this the piece seen in the photo below? If so, won't it be impossible to access it to reeve lines through the sheave slots with the upper deck in place and only the grate opening for access? Is what I have done in the photo below correct? Again I'll ask, during rigging is it possible to get the threads into this with the only access through the grate opening above? As shown, the paint color is only primer and the copper eyelet has not been inserted. I am concerned at this early stage because eventually this photographed deck will be covered and there will be no further access. Comments would be very much appreciated. Respectfully, John Maguire Total time 114 hours Edited April 3, 2016 by John Maguire catopower, Elijah, UpstateNY and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted April 2, 2016 Share #51 Posted April 2, 2016 That was a common feature (or so it seems) of the times, John. There's one like that on the Wasa. You'll have to to do some pre-rigging before closing up the upper deck. Elijah 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share #52 Posted April 3, 2016 Thank you for the many "Likes". It is nice to see you are all looking in. Mark, thank you for looking in and commenting. I have now planned out in my mind how to deal with this, grateful that it was revealed in a timely manner. Don, thank you for your effort on my behalf. What you describe is pretty much what I shall have to do. Also, repeated viewing of the plans uncovered the required detail. After qualifying the deck hole a couple of days ago it is a sufficiently snug fit that I can temporarily put the post in place then during rigging reach down through the grate in the deck above, do all that is necessary with the grate cover and post then put all in place as necessary. Yesterday was spent prepping and moving forward. I fabricated a vertical winch (forgot what it is called) and a ladder that the instructions dictate for installation at this point then got the paint booth out. Seen here is an overkill with the air brush - painting the stern post interior. Primarily I was using it for the smaller components mentioned above. Respectfully submitted John Maguire Total Time 122 hours BLACK VIKING, mrshanks, catopower and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share #53 Posted April 4, 2016 Thank you for the Likes . . . . Yesterday the ladder and capstan were built and air brushed. This morning I glued them into position. All deck beams for the next level were fit and glued. The transom piece was tapered as necessary and finally glued into permanent position. The midship deck beams are split for the open look down area to the deck below. The supplied pieces had rectangular columns and that didn't look attractive to me so I set about trying to sand the columns round - in this case, easier said than done . . . no good. After an afternoon long aborted attempt to sand the MDF rectangles into a somewhat round shape I abandoned that and began to scratch build round replacements. Here you can see the original shape. In my modified piece I have cut off the complete column from the deck beam. Square pieces were made for the top and bottom of the column and 2mm round stock will be cut. The upper square column component is socketed for structural integrity and the bottom square portion of the column has been drilled completely through. That will enable me to fine tune the overall length of the column to the exact required dimension. In order to capture such small pieces for drilling and furthermore to achieve a uniform result I made a jig to hold the 4mm cubes. I sure wish I had a better drill press and an X Y table. Is there such a thing for such small work? Tomorrows tasking will be to complete the four columns, paint and install them. With the next level of deck beams in place it is starting to look a little more ship like . . . . Respectfully, John Maguire Total time 130 hours UpstateNY, DocBlake, Jmm2020 and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted April 4, 2016 Share #54 Posted April 4, 2016 Looks like a great plan for those columns, John. I thought Proxxon made an XY table for your setup???? Elijah 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UpstateNY Posted April 4, 2016 Share #55 Posted April 4, 2016 Hi John, Yes, the Proxxon KT70 x/y table should fit your stand if it is a Micromot MB140 or MB200 model. See link below (pg 41) provided by our MSW sponsor below. Hope this helps. http://www.proxxontoolsdiscount.com/proxxon-catalog.html Build is looking great..hull is coming together really well. Very neat work! Thanks, Nigel. mrshanks, mtaylor and Elijah 3 Quote Current Build Logs: H.M.S. Triton Cross Section, USF Confederacy Model Shipways Completed Log: Red Dragon Artesania Latina Gallery: Red Dragon: Artesania Latina Member: Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmm2020 Posted April 4, 2016 Share #56 Posted April 4, 2016 I was looking over the Tool site and damn I would like one of everything just to add to the collection...neat stuff! John Maguire, Elijah and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share #57 Posted April 4, 2016 Mark, thank you. I never thought to go back to the Proxon page. I was thinking something of Sherline quality was called for. I am enjoying ver 2.0. Nigel, your Confederacy is excellent. Ditto on Proxon - thank you. I eye balled the present 4mm block centers and considering where they will reside they are satisfactory. Respectfully, John Maguire mtaylor, WackoWolf, UpstateNY and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted April 4, 2016 Share #58 Posted April 4, 2016 Great idea on the columns, John. Much better than the rectangular cross section. Elijah, mrshanks and mtaylor 3 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elijah Posted April 4, 2016 Share #59 Posted April 4, 2016 Lots of progress John! She's looking great! Your decks have turned out very well! WackoWolf, mrshanks and mtaylor 3 Quote -Elijah Current build(s): Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/ Completed build(s): Model Shipways Phantom http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376 Member of: The Nautical Research Guild N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Maguire Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share #60 Posted April 5, 2016 Trouble in paradise: The modified center ship partial width deck beams went in satisfactorily. Two aft decks installed with perfect fits between the frames. Part 20 shown in the manual is different than the one supplied with the kit. It might be construed from the photo that the cannon port is possibly further forward in the manual's photo than the part supplied with the kit. This is the supplied part 20 held against the plans. Note the misfit of the cannon port. Look how the misfit on the model is the same as on the plan seen above. The doorway position shows that the plywood panel can not be shifted aft to accommodate the cannon port in the MDF panel. My initial reaction was that I have made an error with frame alignment someplace in the ship. To test that theory I laid out all the many plywood panels against the frames to see if when in place the aft, mid and the bow ends were in the right place - they are. My initial speculation, based on the way that part 20 is wrong when overlaid on the plan - and that the photo in the manual shows a home made part 20 is that the supplied part 20 is incorrect and I'll have to modify it. Possibly someone ahead of me can offer their experience. Thank you for the many "Likes". Respectfully, John Maguire Total time 137 hours cristikc, mtaylor, GuntherMT and 6 others 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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