H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Paddy - Scale 1:48

[Pete38]

For the false keel you could go either way, going with cherry/cherry simulate your caulking to show.   Going with cherry/african blackwood no caulking needed.

I kinda lean toward the african blackwood...it just gives it something....but if you go this way how to you plan to display it. If going this way display it so it can been seen  

You gonna use a cradle, mount flat to baseboard or use some standoffs and have it up off the baseboard a little...something to think on.

Either way you go it will look great

 

Happy desision making 

[Paddy]

Pete, good food for thought and I thank you. It would be a shame to hide that false keel with the African Blackwood. You're absolutly right I think. If one is going to use these beautiful woods then they should be see as much as possible.

[Paddy]

Started on the aft portion of frame "C" and thinking I should pause at this point and work out the fixture that I will use to assemble and glue-up the frames now. I have some idea also of the care I’ll need to take in cutting the keel and keelson notches. After roughing out the notches with the scroll saw I used a small file set and hobby knife for the clean-up and fitting. Kind of slow going but I enjoyed the work.

[russ]

That frame is looking good.

 

You are correct to be thinking ahead on this build. That is a key to success in scratch building. Always try to think ahead to make sure you do not have any unpleasant surprises.

 

Russ

[Trussben]

Awesome looking frame there.

 

Ben

[AnobiumPunctatum]

The frame is looking really good. I would allow a little bit more wood at this early stage of your build. So it's easier to to sand the whole section after insalling all frames

[Paddy]

Russ, Ben and AnobiumPunctatum, thanks very much for your comments and suggestions.

 

P.S. AnobiumPunctatum, do you have a shorter name that you are known by?

[rummy]

Top job Paddy.  Larry

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Paddy,

 

have a look in my signature, my name is Christian. Or make it very short AP - as a lot of people do in a german forum.

[Paddy]

Larry: Thanks very much for that.

 

Christian: No one has ever accused me of being very observant. I apologize for that. AP works too.

Edited April 8, 2013 by Paddy

[Paddy]

I had been assuming that all of the beams, Gun Deck and Lower Deck, were of the same cross section dimensions but after studying the "Cross Section Inboard Works @ 48:1 Scale" drawing I stand corrected. It made me realize that I should not jump to any conclusions looking at photographs. Getting curious about the Beam Arms is what lead me to this particular plate. It looks like it's time for me to print all of the plates for study now.

 

See the attached photo for my notes and please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

Edited April 14, 2013 by Paddy

[russ]

Printing all the plans and taking some careful measurements is never a bad idea.

 

Russ

[Paddy]

When I start the glue-up we’ll see what anomalies occur with the fixture.

 

 

 

This is the framing jig I came up with. Everything is positioned with clamps to make it easy to mount each frame drawing and cover with kitchen wax paper. The frame in the jig is a dry run only at this point. When I start the glue-up we’ll see what anomalies occur.

 

 

Edited April 20, 2013 by Paddy

[russ]

That looks good. It seems to be very precise. Nice work.

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Looks like a very nice jig for the frames. Should work out great.

[Paddy]

Russ and Pete,

Thanks for checking out the jig. Before I went off to the bunk last night I realized I could have a small problem when stacking the second set of futtocks for gluing but sometime during the night a simple solution appeared. We’ll see.

 

Hope to start the glue-up of the “C” frame today. Anxious to see how it goes.  

Thanks again gents for looking in.  

 

 

[Matrim]

The colour combo is strong but not unpleasant. That wood looks almost ebony like though that could be the photo

 

Joss

[Paddy]

HI Joss,

I assume you're referring to the African Blackwood for the false keel. When you lay ebony next to the blackwood they are very simular although the ebony is blacker. There seems to be a little purple tint to the blackwood. It is suppose to be very good for turning and I've been thinking it would be interesting to turn a cannon with it just to see how it looked.

 

It's not to late for me to make another keel and attach a false keel with less contrast.  

Edited April 20, 2013 by Paddy

[Rustyj]

Hi Paddy,

 

I like the look and will be doing the same with ebony on my bomb vessel keel.

[Paddy]

Thanks for that and I appreciate it Rusty.

 

Ah, the Bomb Vessel, great. I have the plans for the Bomb Vessel also and hope to be going there after learning all I can with the Triton which I’m really enjoying. I’ll be look forward to watching your shipyard when you start laying the keel. That will be another good one I’m sure. Thumbs up.

[Paddy]

Thought I would let you all get a look at my lash-up after starting the first frame assemble. After going this far it’s obvious that it could easily have been better but I will give it a go to completion of the first frame. Then if I can’t stand it I’ll make some modifications to improve it. The basic idea is OK I think I just should have planned the under framing of the jig giving more thought to the clamps I have on hand and clearances needed to take advantage of their jaw lengths. Next time.

 

Having read a suggestion by Russ in one of the logs I’m placing the aft futtocks with their templates to the jig and the fore futtocks with their templates facing up to aid shaping the frames once pulled from the jig.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2013 by Paddy

[russ]

I see your issue with the clamps. This is a typical issue in making jigs. If you made the jig once, then modifying it to work better will be no problem if you need to do it.

 

Russ

[Pete38]

Looks like a good start on your frames. No matter how long you think about a jig before you build it......it will always need modified  

 

If you have some type of heavy weight that you could put on the frames while it is being glued might be one way. If you look at my build log here

that is the way I did it.......http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/71-triton-cross-section-132-pete-38/page-3

This is only one way and may not be the best.......whichever way work best for you is the best way to do it

 

Good luck and looking forward to your frame raising day

[rummy]

Very nice Paddy.Progress feels so good.  Larry

[Paddy]

Russ, Pete and Larry,

Thanks for taking a look. The wheels have been turning ever since I left the shop. Tomorrow I'll lay-up the rest of the fore futtocks,  then when I pull the cured frame there are at least two quick and dirty mods I’ll make to the jig. Then we’ll go from there. Maybe by the time I finish all the frames I’ll have the jig worked out.

 

Pete, thanks for the link to your weight photos. BTW, if you don’t mind, what wood are you using for your treenails? I have been practicing with bamboo using a vice to hold the Byrnes draw plate and that seems to be going reasonably well.

 

Larry, it does feel good to be starting on the frames now.

[Pete38]

Paddy,  I also use bamboo for the treenails    seems to work out well for me.

[Paddy]

Would you all suggest installing the treenails in the frames as they leave the  lay-up jig? It seems to me that it would help reinforce the frame before any serious handling.

[Pete38]

If you are going to treenail, then that is the time I would do it....While one frame is in the jig drying you can be installing treenails in the first. works out pretty good that way. (keeps you busy)

 

Also will strengthen the joint, whick is important. 

 

Just don't do like I did on the first frame and get impatient and remove it to soon, best wait for awhile for the glue to set up sufficiently.

[russ]

I agree with Pete. Let the frame dry in the jig thoroughly. Make sure it is flat to the table underneath. Consider putting some weights on it while it dries, but be careful that the weights do not shift the pieces in the jig. Once it is dry, then you can drill and treenail it.

 

Russ

[Paddy]

Thanks gents. I glued in the second set of futtocks around noon Central Time and thought I would wait until at least tomorrow mid-morning before pulling the frame. I should have listen and not milled the pieces quite so close to the template lines. When I start cutting the "B" futtocks I'll do that. Really an enjoyable process and looking forward to getting started above the keel.   

Edited April 22, 2013 by Paddy