HMS Thorn by Kevin Kenny - 1:48 scale - Swan-class - David Antscherl practium

[Kevin Kenny]

[Kevin Kenny]

Used a hardwood template to start curving the aft floor planks. This worked pretty good. Next time i will use a temporary  block in the center to place the first curved plank. Time solves every problem if you just give it a chance. 
 

painted the bitts red as in the 3D file.

 

will be working on the model until the 18th then off to Tobago for 2 week holiday.

[AON]

off to Tobago for a holiday ???   

heck, if I were you I'd step outside and say I was there.  

(-5°C this morning up here)

 

Just watched your last video!  These are great.  The pencil grout also seems like a winner.

 

Good to hear you at the meeting on Saturday!

Enjoy your vacation.

Edited December 7, 2020 by AON

[dvm27]

Very nice job, Kevin. I like the way you've integrated the 3D images into the construction.

 

It might be a perspective thing but the lower deck aft hatch seems skewed to port in your photo post 241.

 

Edited December 10, 2020 by dvm27

[Kevin Kenny]

Hi Greg

the 3 D images have added so much to the build. Thanks for allowing me to use them in the videos. The aft hatch is centered so it must be an illusion. What i have found is that i need to run a line from bow to stern to get a correct centerline. I had established centerlines each time i installed a beam. These were not always accurate which mean when i installed the carlings a few were off center, as a result two of the hatches were also off center. I was able to recenter the hatches  when i started the planking. I left the off center carlings as they would have been covered up in any case.  Thank goodness for PVA and alchol. 

[Kevin Kenny]

I am now using heat to curve the planks. Wish i had done so earlier. This means that it will be better on the next deck. The coffee wood turns out to be excellent for planking. The grain is so fine and when i heat it, it holds its shape well. 

[Kevin Kenny]

Proceeding nicely.

[Kevin Kenny]

Just the last two deck strakes to install. Thank goodness the deck covers up my inaccurate carlins. This will not happen on the main deck. One of the main reasons for installing the full deck is to learn from my mistakes and make sure when i lay the main deck it will not have these errors in it. Experience is the best teacher. I have learned so much. This build is the best teaching course one could attend in model building. I am so appreciative of the time David and Greg put into this practicum. 

[Kevin Kenny]

Completed. I take this opportunity to wish all of you and your families  a very bless and happy Christmas. May we all have many successful modeling days in 2021.

https://youtu.be/oysIf3QMBI0

 

 

Edited December 14, 2020 by Kevin Kenny
Problem with the video upload

[Kevin Kenny]

 

[dvm27]

Happy Holidays to you as well, Kevin!

 

For the main deck consider making all the deck beams first and installing them temporarily. It is easier to get a fair run of carlings this way using a batten.

[Kevin Kenny]

Greg

Two points.

1.should the deck planking be slightly thicker to cater for finial sanding. My planks never seem to have perfect thickness even though i put them through the Preac sander. 

2. What clamps do you use to get nice tight joins between the floor planks. Using the blow drier worked well to get the shape locked in but they still needed some pressure. The best clamp that worked was the large tweezers.

Edited December 15, 2020 by Kevin Kenny
Spelling

[Kevin Kenny]

[dvm27]

My deck planking usually requires only light sanding or scraping to blend Kevin. Provided your deck beams are aligned and the planks are uniform thickness there shouldn't be a lot of variation.

 

For edge clamping I use tapered wedges I create for each for each planking run. One end is slightly narrower than the the distance to be filled by planking. The other end is the correct width to bridge the gap. After applying glue on the plank and letting it set in place for a minute I insert the tapered wedges to lock them into the adjacent plank while setting. usually use five or six of these per run. You can reuse them for the next run of planks by reducing their width as required. When the remaining gaps get smaller you can also drive vertical wedged pieces between the planks to force them down (it looks like you are already doing this in the video).

 

Enjoy your vacation. I know nothing about Trinidad and Tobago except that, as a stamp collector, their postal issues were always combined. Is one a nicer vacation spot?

[Kevin Kenny]

[Kevin Kenny]

 

[stuglo]

On 12/14/2020 at 12:12 AM, Kevin Kenny said:

Just the last two deck strakes to install. Thank goodness the deck covers up my inaccurate carlins. This will not happen on the main deck. One of the main reasons for installing the full deck is to learn from my mistakes and make sure when i lay the main deck it will not have these errors in it. Experience is the best teacher. I have learned so much. This build is the best teaching course one could attend in model building. I am so appreciative of the time David and Greg put into this practicum. 

Beautiful. You are an inspiration (and help to make my poor effort possible)

Have a great holiday

[hdrinker]

Kevin, I very much enjoyed your videos. Beautifully done. Your skill level is understated. I am just finished the hull framing of Pegasus. My attention to detail has been inferior by far to yours. The two most significant problems I encountered were #1: maintaining a smooth top timber line, particularly with the aft cant frames and #2: alignment of the ports consistent with the sheer. I cut the port notches as I went and the end result was poor. I decided to redo all the ports. I think I would prefer next time to cut them after the framing was complete by drawing the correct locations relative to the sheer beforehand. The top timber line correction was completed by adding and subtracting material. While the end result is satisfactory from a construction standpoint, I would not want to leave it unplanked in the end. 
Your work makes me consider starting again from scratch. My first two POF models were undertaken as much for the end result as for the process itself. This one was purely for the process. Well done!

Henry Drinker

[Kevin Kenny]

24 minutes ago, hdrinker said:

Kevin, I very much enjoyed your videos. Beautifully done. Your skill level is understated. I am just finished the hull framing of Pegasus. My attention to detail has been inferior by far to yours. The two most significant problems I encountered were #1: maintaining a smooth top timber line, particularly with the aft cant frames and #2: alignment of the ports consistent with the sheer. I cut the port notches as I went and the end result was poor. I decided to redo all the ports. I think I would prefer next time to cut them after the framing was complete by drawing the correct locations relative to the sheer beforehand. The top timber line correction was completed by adding and subtracting material. While the end result is satisfactory from a construction standpoint, I would not want to leave it unplanked in the end. 
Your work makes me consider starting again from scratch. My first two POF models were undertaken as much for the end result as for the process itself. This one was purely for the process. Well done!

Henry Drinker

Henry

This build is in it self a teaching opportunity. My view of errors is that at this stage most of the mistakes will in fact be covered by later parts of the build, so unless it was a fatal error i would simply move on. I continue to make errors. If there is a lesson learnt it is that the flow of the work is almost more important than the actual measurements. I too made errors with the port notches and felt as disappointed with my errors, but once i realized that i planned to plank both sides, no one will know about the error except myself. So plung on, correct if you want or have to correct as you go. In fact that why i am building many of the internal pieces that no one will ever see. This is 101 ship building. 
what i have also found very use full is to follow some of the restorations that are found on YouTube. Tally Ho restoration by Sampson Boat co. With Leo Goolden is one of the best.

[Kevin Kenny]

 

[Kevin Kenny]

Santa was very generous this year. Lee Valley best of the best.

unfortunate they will be sent to New York to be picked up some time next year.

hope you were all as fortunate as i was. 
best to you snd your family.

kevin

[Kevin Kenny]

It would be a shame to put this nice vice on my old work bench so I decided to build a new work bench, a job I put off for many years. Went to my friend and best joiner ever Richard Hadeed to discus the project and he gave me this old workbench that needed a lot of repairs but was exactly what I was considering building. I have repaired all the draws and am now waiting on a slab of 2” Mahogany for the top. It will be 44” by 20”. 

[druxey]

Nice! Wear it in good health.

[Kevin Kenny]

Trial fit. Not sure of the finial height yet. Currently at 33”, considering 34” as the finial height. I have a week to decide as will not get the Mahogany until next Saturday.

[stuglo]

Something else for me to copy from you

[Kevin Kenny]

While i am waiting on the wood for the top of the work table, i have rearranged my two workshops, installed a vacuum system in the outside shop, threw out lots of stuff that i have not used in ages, rearranged the inside shop, moved the vacuum into a cupboard so its not so loud, moved the Byrnes and Preac to the old work bench, mounted the drill press on the old wine chiller. Wow, i now have space. Even Susan my wife seems happier.  

[AON]

Now that you're re-organized you'll never be able to find anything.  🤣

[Kevin Kenny]

Haha, so true

[Kevin Kenny]

It’s been a long day. Got the two inch Mahogany work bench top installed. Lots still to do.

[Kevin Kenny]

its done.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2021 by Kevin Kenny
error in upload.