HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1756 by Timmo - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[Timmo]

Thanks for the comments Kester.

I like your Sherbourne, especially the gaff sail. I battled a long while with sails for mine before giving up as i could never get them o look right for the scale.

 

with the head rails, those are next up once i get back into building.

here's what the kit suggests:

 

 

and here's what the anatomy of the ship has:

 

 

the kit parts are from walnut ply and might take a bit of bending and shaping to ease a third dimension bend into them but i suspect remaking them will be the best option as i also want the profiled groove running through the centre of the rails as per AOTS and the previous rails I've done on Granado. As for the colour, yes the kit suggests blue but I'll keep it consistant with what i've done so far with a blue strip on the varnished timber.

less is more.

[Stockholm tar]

Timmo.

 

Thanks for the kind words about my Sherbourne. I think the gaff sail was the easy one!

 

Yes, I thought you'd be working on the headrails next. Remaking them is probably the best way to go, so I look forward to your progress.

Btw, how do you find the AOTS book on Granado? I gather it's reasonably good.

 

Kind regards,

Edited February 1, 2014 by Stockholm tar

[Timmo]

It's very good and highly recommended.

The Granado is a fine model out of the box but I'm lucky enough that my local public library has a copy of AOTS so it's worth adding a few additions.

[Timmo]

The head rails really take their starting point from the cat heads. Their positioning determines where the cathead knees run down vertically to the top head rail which runs out to the bow.

Hence here's an issue which I spotted prior to packing Granado away a few months back - I chose to wilfully ignore it and hope it would sort itself out in the meantime. Unsurprisingly it's been waiting for me ever since.

The chase port needs to be positioned far enough back to allow the cathead knee and head rail extension under it to run down from the cathead and clear the chase port like so on the instructions.

 

On my Granado the chase port is too far forward by about 3-4mm it means the timber forming the knee and start of the head rail fouls the port. The port is yet to receive a door which means we need even more room.

Here's what it would look like with the stock kit pieces.

Clearly not enough room there. Craig and other builders beware and check those ports and shuffle the top rail with their timber head positions if needed. The port side has a little more room but options are:

moving chase port ( all but impossible)

Shaping cathead knees and head rails for each side so that they follow a natural line away from the port. (Possible but would not do well with symmetry when the hull and head rails are viewed from front.

Remove one timber head from the top rail on each side to allow the cathead to move forward to clear the port. (looking the best option so far as there is nothing belayed to the timberhead which would go and few would notice, I'm for the simplest and best looking fix here as this kit was never going to be 100% accurate given my lack of info and skills for many bits.

[Craigie65]

Timmo

Thanks for the heads up as I am starting on the headrails this weekend. Might try a test fit to see if I have tHe same issue.

[Mick_S]

I shall be watching you both closely to see what the solution is, I am a while away from that bit but will get there one day..!! I think maybe your option of re-shaping the knees might be worth consideration, the AOTS plan shows them sweeping forwards rather than dropping straight down...?? Good luck.....

 

Mick

[Craigie65]

Hi Mick

Are you starting a build log? Always good to see how fellow builders are getting on

[Stockholm tar]

Timmo,

 

Perhaps you might try both options, two and three, but in moderation:

 

As Mick says, the drawings show there is more of a curve to the knees and rail – but I think you'd have to keep a check on the alignment, so that it doesn't affect the general sweep of the rail, perhaps adjusting it if necessary.

 

As you say, removing the aftermost of the timber heads, which I think you can see the base of in your photograph, doesn't seem to matter that much. I think though, having removed it, I'd only move the cathead forward just as much as is needed, to give clearance for the gunport door, and allowing it to fully open. This of course would be in conjunction with the option above.

 

I note in the photograph in the instruction book, that the after door is fouled by the cat-tackle fall. I imagine moving the cathead will affect that, either more of less, and is something you might have to live with. Btw, I'd avoid the hairy cat-tackle, if you can!

 

 

[Mick_S]

I should start a log Craig, haven't done one before as it's my first build and I guess wasn't sure if anyone would be too interested given the quality of others in the forum. Will try and get something together.....

[Craigie65]

I should start a log Craig, haven't done one before as it's my first build and I guess wasn't sure if anyone would be too interested given the quality of others in the forum. Will try and get something together.....

I'll be interested for one

[Timmo]

I'd be interested too Mick. The more people contributing the more opportunities to solve issues like this and help each other out.

[Timmo]

Thanks for the suggestions Kester.

I was fairly set on just moving the timber head but I can see now shaping the cathead knee and head rail properly will overcome the problem.

I made some mock ups of the kit supplied cathead and head rails to get some idea of how it all should look. As can be seen there's no natural curve to them. It's pretty square.

Edited February 9, 2014 by Timmo

[Timmo]

To make a pattern for the knees and head rails a rubbing of the chase port and sheer rail etc was made with a pencil.

 

 

This was then used to draw in the correct shape for the knee and beginning of the upper head rail.

The resulting shape was traced and cut to check it works for the other side.

I've laminated some leftover 4mm kit walnut to make some pieces large enough to hopefully cut the knee and entire head rail in one piece,

that's it for today. For our northern hemisphere friends it's too hot working in my garage even with a fan on and a refreshing beer close to hand, especially after a morning watching my daughters compete in a triathlon. Great stuff.

Edited February 9, 2014 by Timmo

[Captain Slog]

Hi Wayne,

 

Good to see you back on the build.  The new curved pieces do look a lot nicer.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Timmo]

The head rails depend on the cathead for positioning so they have to be knocked out and fitted first.

The slots were cut with a jewellers saw.

Sheaves were cut from styrene tube and an axle from brass rod.

Painting, fitting and the cathead cleat next up.

[yorkshirejohn]

Hi Timmo - just starting in this hobby and wanted to say what an inspiration your work is. I am using a kit I have had for 10 years (holiday purchase) to develop skills and had decided on getting the Granado as a good next kit.

 

Keep posting.

 

John 

[Timmo]

Thanks John. The Granado is a nice kit and a good second build. Be sure to post a build log of your first kit. Plenty of encouragement and advice from the fine people on this site.

[Craigie65]

Really delicate work. How do you keep the cuts parallel? Are you doing this by sight alone?

[Timmo]

Start and end points marked with dividers and drilled and the rest filled in, or cut out in this case, by eye. It's a short distance so you can get away with it,

Edited February 17, 2014 by Timmo

[Timmo]

I'd laminated some profiled strip to the front face of the cheeks below the head rails in a burst of activity a few months back.

The lamination lines were still visible and not that flash so some new upper and lower cheeks were knocked up from offcuts of the kit walnut cut and shaped to fit.

 

The upper cheeks were made in two pieces with the join on one side.

The profile was made with a file as per the others on a ship. The timber was varnished and the blue painted in and tidied up with a blade.

 

 

 

The join between the upper cheeks and the head rail will be hidden by the gammoning holding the bowsprit down.

[jthemanjack]

Looking very nice Timmo ......will do something very similar I think   if not an exact copy (nothing patented I hope).

   Gonna have to get myself a Jewellers saw I think...... looks very handy.

 

   Cheers 

     Jack

[fifthace]

Hiya Timmo, doing a grand job on her.

 

I am building the same ship although made by Victory Models, and one noticeable difference is the mortar bays are built completely differently from your Caldercraft kit, there are a number of other differences too, not just with the method of construction, but the resulting look as well...

 

Good work, will be using yours as reference when I resume mine

[Timmo]

Thanks Jack, Dominic, there were a couple of victory/amiti Granadoes on the old MSW and I'm sure many would be interested to see the differences. How about a build log?

[Craigie65]

Hiya Timmo, doing a grand job on her.

 

I am building the same ship although made by Victory Models, and one noticeable difference is the mortar bays are built completely differently from your Caldercraft kit, there are a number of other differences too, not just with the method of construction, but the resulting look as well...

 

Good work, will be using yours as reference when I resume mine

Dominic

Would be great to see a build log. I looked at the Victory Granado but plumped for the jotika version - only second build so the lower price was more attractive

[fifthace]

Timmo Craigie No reason I can't put up a log of my build so far, although it would only be upto where it is now as she is currently sat on a shelf above my workbench and she will be staying there for some time yes as I have other projects to work on first. Finishing the Bounty is first up, then some more work on the Sovereign partwork, followed by AL's Santa Maria which arrived yesterday, but I certainly have photographs of the build so far.

 

I did make life difficult for myself as I began the rigging before doing the shrouds...and wished I hadn't.  Will post it tomorrow

[Timmo]

A couple of bits of walnut offcuts from the kit were laminated together and cut to shape for the upper head rails.

The shape was marked off the cardboard templates and the outline cut. First the outside then the inside.

 

 

Constant checking ensured a reasonably snug fit to the hull, the cat head and a consistent curve. A Dremel with a sanding head followed by files and sandpaper was used to shape the piece. Notches were cut in the sheer rail and lower profiled strip on the hull to accommodate the head rail/cathead knee.

It's quite a complex curve and I was going to do it in two pieces to have a better chance of success but this seems to have come out ok. A profile will be cut into the front once the other piece is shaped up.

[Stockholm tar]

Timmo,

 

That is one very nice headrail – so much better than in the kit! I think it was certainly worth the effort.

[aliluke]

Worth more than a "Like This" - brilliant work Timmo. As we all find out - bugger - a ship has two sides. Best of luck with symmetry but I sense you have it completely in hand.

 

Cheers

Alistair

[Timmo]

That's right Alistair, making one of something is always possible, but two the same is the issue. The other might take a bit longer as I grapple with symmetry .

No turning back now since I've cut notches in the sheer rail.

[Captain Slog]

Looking very nice Wayne.

 

 

bugger - a ship has two sides.

 

making one of something is always possible, but two the same is the issue

These were my 1st thoughts also when I saw your new rail.

 

Shouldn't be a problem for you though.

 

Cheers

Slog