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Rattlesnake 1781 by JustBlowinInTheWind - Mamoli - Scale 1:64 - 20 gun Privateer


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I've invited my 15 year old granddaughter to follow along. Let's see if she does and how much she participates.

 

I was building the Niagara and got to the rigging and was intimidated so I thought I'd build this one to get some simpler rigging experience. Here's my Niagara. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6701-niagara-1813-by-justblowininthewind-model-shipways-164-first-build/

 

So far I'm impressed with the laser cuts, the written instructions are a challenge to say the least. The plans themselves are not bad at all.

 

I made the box for holding the wood for the Niagara. The blue tape on the left is left over from the Niagara. The duct tape is for this ship. I made that from display shelf scraps from Home Depot.

 

I'm only showing the 1st 2 sets of plans as they're what's relevant now.

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Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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I'm open to suggestions on how to get that deck to lay flatter. My idea is not working.

 

I think I should have soaked the deck in water and laid it out on a flat surface with weights. Teach me to be observant, huh?

 

It looks like the deck issue will be mostly hidden, but a close look will show the warping where the upper decks don't hide it.

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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I think I'll pull up a chair, also.  The final planking for the deck will cover a lot of sins, depending on thickness.  If the supplied planking for the deck is too thin, you can swap it out for thicker and sand the deck smooth once planked.  I'm too lazy to run upstairs and look in my Mamoli kit box for the deck planking!

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Definitely warped, but you have to be at the right angle to see it. There's only one spot I;m really worried about. I'm heading into the hobby store this afternoon to see what I can use to make blocks in between the bulk heads. Coulda, shoulda, woulda in the 1st place.

 

I thought about it but didn't want to make the hour round trip to the hobby shop. Shame on me!

 

I'm prepared to shim if needed.

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Brian - I have this one on the shelf. Going from 2 masts to 3?  Easier?

 

I wasn't clear on your deck issue. Is the false deck still glued down or did you tear it out? If it's just a dip in one place you could smooth out some filler over it?

 

I had an issue with my Enterprise build - the bulkheads had a slope from the center outwards as would be expected. The false deck had none so it didn't sit flush. I ended up gluing the deck down - with CA - bulkhead by bulkhead and holding in place until the CA set. My point is you can use the CA almost like nails. Eventually any 2 pieces will stick together. Then reinforce with PVA along the joints.

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I bought some 1.5"X.25"X24" strips of bass wood and insterted them as seen. They go almost all the way back to the keel.

 

Now, before I layed the false deck I used strips of wood kinda like battens and faring and it all looked good. I think the issue was that the deck was a little warped AND the bulk heads were off. Faring would not have picked up on that. I don't think:)

 

The rest of the board that the deck came from is a little warbly as well. I have that under weights.

 

This support seems to have helped a lot and make me feel better about mounting things to the deck later.

 

At this point, my concern is that a couple places are still too much of a bow from the keel to the outer deck. I'm prepared to use filler before planking but I thing I need only be concerned with a couple locations. Those being the locations of a couple cannons. Some would point down instead of a straight line.

 

Logical thing to me is to locate the cannons and see which ones need filler to raise them.

 

I'm having a hard time seeing where the cannon should go though.

 

A little sanding, a little Carpel Tunnel and I have a long way to go yet.

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Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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GreatGallions recommended this ship as being a good one to cut my teeth on rigging on. Niagara has a LOT more rigging from what I can see. Perhaps because it's a larger scale? Definitely appreciating the quality of the instructions and plans of a Model Expo ship.

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Know how many times I looked at that and never saw the ports?

 

I got lucky with this one. There's still a bit of a slope from center out one a couple places but not as bad as it was. Maybe 1.5 mm TOPS.

 

Now, Regarding the cannons on the plans. I want to know where each cannon goes so I can determine on the ship itself if any location of the deck needs adjusting for cannon.

 

Looking at the right side of the ship plans it looks like the bulwark planking is going to cover half the cannon port. Also the cannon to the left looks like the bulwark was notched out for the wheel.

 

The plans don't show where the rest of the bulk heads are either.

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I'm prepared to do just that. However, my support seems to have dont the trick. I measured out where each canon goes and I see no where that any warping would cause a problem. At this point I don't see any warping but if I come across it I'll lay one some wood filler.

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Also Mike, in my measuring and marking out where the cannons go, I see that the plans are smoking something good. There are no frames blocking the ports. The measurements on the plans don't add up. Though I'm worried about all the detail around cannon 1 between frame 1 and 2.

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Added the hide glue to my xmas wish list on Amazon. Should have it here by the 25th.

 

Question. Is the pre-fabed stuff going to be a lot different than mixing it myself? Wife already wonders what I do out here all day, she'll think I'm cooking meth or something.

 

I've destroyed the deck, so I am thinking of painting it. The lower part only. Probably a buff color.

 

I'm thinking I don't really have to run the planking all the way out to the edges either. It all gets hidden and covered so as long as the wheels of the cannons all set on decking that is level all the canons should face the same height.

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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My sixteen-year old grand daughter comes here after school every night of the week and patiently listens to a new facet about shipbuilding. So I was delighted when we went to visit an old clipper recently and she started talking about the garboard strake. The tour guide's eyes almost popped right out !

 

May I make a suggestion ? I notice the empty space between Frame 1 and the plywood keel at the bow. This is an area where planks (sorry, strakes) undergo a fair amount of twisting/ curving. It will make life a little easier if this was filled in with some filler blocks. Any timber will do but in doing so, it allows you to get a better appreciation of the profile and it allows the planking to be done a little easier. Now, I know there is a gun in the upper part of this area but a little bit of carving out an area for this would do the trick.

 

Anyway, just a thought.

 

Pete

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As a matter of fact, I have a mini disk/belt sander on order for Xmas. Love the way you can share lists with friends on Amazon. Prime to boot? Prime is going to take on a brand new meaning, you mark my words, right here and now.

 

Google is a noun and a verb. Is Prime?

 

I have a couple blocks of bass wood just for that and the stern. Last time I used balsa wood and it was not bad but once or twice I wished that I could put a needle or a nail in it, but balsa is of course too soft.

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind
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