Kågen by Wintergreen - FINISHED - 1:30 - Swedish clinker-built cog work boat - SMALL

[Wintergreen]

Yep, still here, plodding along.

Just one fram pair to go. I haven't counted, by my guess is that every frame piece goes in and out of the hull up to 50 times. So each pair of frames, that's 100 times. Multiply by nine, that's.. hm... 900 passes in and out. For some reason I don't think a real shipwright needs that many jumps in and out of the hull. 

This is the 2nd pair being test fitted. Just one pair to go, the front most one.

 

And here are the other, waiting for final fit and glue. 

And no, I haven't used the draw knife to bevel the frames! It belongs to another project where I needed a quick way to bevel off some carlings. Yes, sounds like deck work, but it's actually project Insulate workshop ceiling, going on. 😉

 

Soon I will be ready to mount the frames and leap on to next subject of the hull.

 

And, thanks for likes and comments!

[bolin]

Nice work. I know exactly what you mean by moving the frames in and out of the hull for test fitting! I've done it all weekend myself 🙂

[Wintergreen]

Yes @bolin, I just saw your post about frames 😄 

 

[Nirvana]

Håkan,

An insulated garage is good to have.....

I have sever upgrade to do in that matter. 

 

That jig for the frames seems to work real well. 

How's the snow situation?

[Wintergreen]

A couple of days above freezing, add some heavy rain and I think you can figure it out @Nirvana 😉

Now it's back below zero again... too bad with the snow.

[Mike Y]

Your accuracy and precision level pays off! These frame pieces look great, please avoid using that scary drawknife on them!  

[KeithAug]

On 1/16/2021 at 6:05 PM, Wintergreen said:

Starting out at around 12-13 degrees inside in the morning, temperature slowly raises to 15-16 at lunch time

 

Very nice work on framing out the clinker shell. I look forward to seeing more. My workshop started out at 7 degrees today

and by mid afternoon had reached 12. I recall thinking it was getting a bit too warm. 

[Wintergreen]

KeithAug, that sounds, well, harsh. I will from now on consider 15 degrees completely okay and will not complain more 😉

[vaddoc]

Looking good Hakan.

My solution was a butane gas heater, assisted by an electric heater around or bellow freezing. 

[Wintergreen]

Hi guys!

A small update again. During the last weeks I added a ceiling with 20cm/8" of insulation above. Then the temperature dropped and has been parked round -10 down to -15... timing, still the workshop is not very pleasant at those temperatures.

Well, I've busied myself with other chores. One being playing around with acrylic paints. 🙂 

Have never delved into artists acrylics before and it will take some time to master I think. I had some fun with the 1.0 version hull...

I also tried how glue will stick to the paint. And yes, it will. Tried both CA and white glue. Both holds fairly well. Best is of course to glue before paint and on thicker layer the glue lifts the paint if forced.

 

After a while I took a deep breath and went for 2.0

Some ugly glue residue, but I'm not overly concerned. To be honest, this is only my fourth model, five if you count the colorful above. And only my first scratch. The whole idea is to gain experience and skill, and that.takes.time.

 

Below is what I used, diluted with water. 

 

With the hull weathered it is time for framing.

Three done, now waiting for grandkids that will have a sleep over so no more progress today 😄

 

The frames will painted as well. Need some trimming first. And all those ugly glue spots will be covered by thwarts, floor boards and what not.

Thanks for shown interest and likes! Appreciated 🙂 

 

Til next time, ta!

[bolin]

Nice color, the burnt umber gives a nice weathered look in natural light.

 

 

[vaddoc]

Very nice Hakan. Your frames came out great!

Epoxy thickened with gypsum could be a good alternative with gap filling properties, although epoxy has the potential to cause great mess.

[Wintergreen]

Thank you Bolin. 🙂

It is a bit scary to set the brush to the hull, and once started, there is no turning back and no hesitation!

I know that painting or weathering our precious small gems is not every ones cup of tea. But I wanted to give it a go.

A little brown and a lot of black, add water and go.

As can be seen on the discarded hull I tried all kinds of mixtures and stains beforehand. 

Too much brown gave an unrealistic hue. More apt on a piece of furniture than on a well used working boat.

Down the line I will add some bottom paint. Not sure about color. Suggestions for old small crafts appreciated 😉 

[wefalck]

Did you paint on the raw wood, using the acrylics as a kind of stain ?  I have not actually done it like this myself, but if you prime the wood with a sanding filler, sand it nicely and then apply washes of acrylics, you might avoid the problem with uneven penetration due to glue stains. I have done it on resin models and one can achieve a nice worn looks.

[Wintergreen]

38 minutes ago, vaddoc said:

Very nice Hakan. Your frames came out great!

Epoxy thickened with gypsum could be a good alternative with gap filling properties, although epoxy has the potential to cause great mess.

Thanks for input Vaddoc. But I'm not overly concerned about small gaps for two reasons.

1. all pieces will be stained/painted and that hides a fair bit of unskilled labor.

And 2, even though it is an open boat, it will take quite a bit of internal structures and these will also help hide imperfections. 🙂 

oh, figured out a 3rd reason, as you say, fillers can make a mess and I'm more than capable of that even without fillers 😄 

[Wintergreen]

@wefalck - that is actually a good idea. Definitely worth trying. And yes, I used the acrylics well diluted as a kind of wash-on stain. I turned out quite okay I think.

[wefalck]

The advantage of acrylics for washes is that one can work very fast. They only takes minutes to dry and one can apply quickly the next round. The following layer does also not redissolve the previous layers, as could/woulld happen for enamels or oils.

[Wintergreen]

Just a wee update. 

Managed to get most frames in. Three to go. Next up will be stringers for the thwarts I think. 

In the photo below there are actually four frames to go...

 

And then a small teaser for what will be my next build. 😉 

I'm still in the preparatory phases as can be seen of the somewhat ugly first buttock line.

 

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by Wintergreen

[Wintergreen]

So before the weekend kicks in with full force and focus shifts elsewhere, another update. This one is more of a milestone actually.

All frames are in place! Yay 😄 

The boat will be two masted sprit rigged, hence two mast supports are visible in the stern shot.

Bow view:

 

And stern view. 

The three most forward frames are still wet from paint, therefore a little darker than the rest.

 

I mentioned in my previous post that a stringer is next. However I need to cut some more uplings (?) Each larger thwart needs more support than what a single frame accomplishes. After those are in place the stringer is next.

Then I need to check what the shipwright in the book did next. I guess it is easiest to actually follow the steps from real build.

 

Another thought when looking at the above two pictures is that with "correct" lighting all the small discrepancies wont show 😉 

In the bow view above the light is much more forgiving than in the stern view. Something to consider when it goes on display.

 

And thanks for likes and comments!

Edited February 20, 2021 by Wintergreen

[Nirvana]

Håkan, 

I like the progress of Kogen. The colorization is perfect, something you definitely in Swedish water.

[bolin]

Definitely a milestone reached. Congratulations!

[Baker]

Nice work 

[Wintergreen]

Hello again!

Work continues. Bits and pieces. 

I guess the pictures tells the story..

After extra supports were carved and glued in place, cutting the stringer was next. With no suitable power tool I used a simple backsaw to cut them out from stock of near correct thickness.

Here they're glued in place. Can never have too many clamps, can we? 😉 

 

A bit too long at the front, which the sharp eyed viewer will notice. 

And here pinned and a bit of touch up of paint. Only relying on the glue joint wasn't sufficient. Ask me how I know...

 

 

Another curious viewer might wonder why it stop short at the back. Well, that last section will take a pinrail on each side, that's why.

I probably need to address floorboards next because I think the thwarts will be very much in the way once they're in place.

 

Thanks for shown interest, comments and likes! Much appreciated. 🙂

[Jim Lad]

Coming along nicely, Håkan.

 

John

[vaddoc]

Looks fantastic Hakan. This dark shade really lifts the model, I like it a lot. You could consider using treenails for those stringers, would be more secure and easier than glue.

Now, if I could take a guess, is your next boat a pilot cutter?

[Wintergreen]

Thank you John and Vaddoc!

 

Vaddoc, I did pin them with treenails (bamboo). 🙂 

And yes, spot on on the guess. More on that subject later though.

[G.L.]

She looks realy nice, Hakan.
I like the color. It gives her the look of a real working boat. 

A very interesting log.

[Wintergreen]

Work continues. 

Pinrails in place. There will be twarths securing them.

I also started trimming the frames ends with a (very) sharp chisel. Worked fine. However I need to secure the sheer strake with pins/dowels...

First a picture from the book on those pinrails. "Pinrail" might be wrong also since I think it will act as support for the traveler.

 

Another detailed picture showing uplings and stringer.

 

And finally, the build. The board on the center line will support floor boards.

The shipwright also dabbed a couple of coats of lead paint (aka red acrylic) in the bilge for authenticity sake.

 

Thanks for likes and comments!

 

[vaddoc]

The led paint is a great detail Hakan! 

[KeithAug]

Looking very tidy Hakan, I think she is turning out rather impressive.