Byrnes Table Saw

[Griphos]

Roger,

 

I haven't ever used it for ship modeling.  It's one of the most stable wood species.  Just doesn't move much with humidity or temperature.  But it has very prominent grain.  And it's hard, but brittle.  Splinters fairly easily.  One thing I don't like about it is that handling it turns my fingers bluish/purple.  Something in the wood reacts with skin.  It fades quickly (day or two).  I'm not sure it would look good in scale.  The grain is just so pronounced.  

 

Here's a table and some chairs I made from a log I cut down off my dad's place.   That's an oil finish, so the wood is pretty dark without any stain.  

 

If you do any turning, your logs would make lovely bowls.  I've made quite a few live edge bowls from Mesquite.  

 

Edited March 3, 2019 by Griphos

[No Idea]

12 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

I use a carbide blade 98% of the time.  I know there is more lost to sawdust with a carbide blade than the Thurston blades, but in the overall scope of things the ease of use of the carbide blade outweighs the lost wood due to the wider kerf - at least in my opinion.

Kurt

Hi Kurt that's really interesting as I have been leaning to the same conclusion as you, especially when ripping long lengths of thick hardwood for planks.  Can I ask which is your preferred carbide blade?

[Julie Mo]

The blade I've been using to cut fret slots (so far in maple, ebony and cocobolo) is one I bought from StewMac for about $100.  (It's $122 today.)  It's 100 teeth are not carbide tipped.  I've probably slotted a dozen or so fretboards and it definitely needs sharpening now.   

[kurtvd19]

The carbide blade I use is a 36 tooth - 4 3/8-inch - Freud Diablo Finish blade. 

This is a larger blade than the saw is designed to use but the modifications are easy to do.  I purchase the blades on Amazon and they usually run me about $15.

The second photo shows the modification needed to the saw to fit the blade.  Install the blade and w/o using a clearance plate turn the saw on and raise the blade.  It is going to contact the back side of the opening in the aluminum table.  Continue to raise the blade to it's maximum.  Lower the blade as far as it will go.  Using a "V" file enlarge the slot the blade cut in the table as shown in the photo being sure to widen the slot the blade cut so there is no further blade to table contact. 

The blade being larger dia than what the saw is designed to use will not be able to lower below the table top - it will be about 3/8-inch above the top.  There is an additional modification needed to be able to lower the blade all the way.  The screw that raises and lowers the blade hits a part of the mechanism that needs to have clearance for the screw.  The  other 2 photos show the modification I made using my Foredom tool with a ball grinder bit.  The first photo shows the area I ground away and the second shows how the screw now clears the piece that formerly interfered.

I talked to Jim about the changes I made and he said I did it the right way - I am sure if he did it the area ground away would be pristine and ground away to the thousandth of a inch - but what I did works. 

Carbide blades work well for cutting aluminum and this little bit of cutting didn't affect the blades sharpness at all.  But I do cut aluminum and brass at times so I got 2 blades and use one marked "M: for metal - non ferrous metals only!

I am very happy with the set up and showed it at the last NRG conference in 2018.

Kurt

 

[druxey]

Interesting 'mod' to your saw, Kurt! I like it.

[kurtvd19]

David:

I wanted to use a good quality blade like I do on my big 10-inch saw and this Freud blade has all the features found on their large blades.  Laser cut cooling slots and all.  I am very happy with the performance.

Kurt

[No Idea]

Thats very interesting Kurt and thanks for sharing

[KeithAug]

On 3/2/2019 at 11:17 PM, mtaylor said:

I use a "used" blade for cutting ebony and rely on filing/sanding to get the piece to the shape I want.   I also try to keep several new blades of each tooth count on hand so if a blade does start showing it's age and wear, I have a spare new one on hand.   

I use slitting saw blades extensively preferring .031" (0.8mm) wide for slitting hull planking. The only problem I ever get is when I try to push a worm blade beyond its useful life. Fitting a new blade usually transforms the situation.

[Thistle17]

My new blades arrived and I installed a like for like Thurston I-292 and it works great! So indeed it was a dull blade.

 

And Jim I did not realize they were hollow ground. I should have checked it. Thank you.

Joe

[KeithAug]

On 3/3/2019 at 4:28 PM, kurtvd19 said:

This is a larger blade than the saw is designed to use but the modifications are easy to do.

I tend to save my Byrnes TCT blades for jobs where I need better finishes or want to reduce waste (because of reduced kerf). Where I'm not worried about waste i use these (Amazon):- Needs a bore spacer but avoids complication of larger blade mods described by Kurt.

 

[cog]

On 3/5/2019 at 12:31 AM, KeithAug said:

I tend to save my Byrnes TCT blades for jobs where I need better finishes or want to reduce waste (because of reduced kerf). Where I'm not worried about waste i use these (Amazon):- Needs a bore spacer but avoids complication of larger blade mods described by Kurt.

 

Where did you get your spacer, Keith?

[KeithAug]

2 hours ago, cog said:

Where did you get your spacer, Keith?

Carl - I made it from aluminium - I have a lathe.

However Jim sells spacers through the Byrnes web site for $5. You need to tell him the size you want.

[cog]

To expensive Keith, with shipping and all

[BANYAN]

Try a machinery shop Carl (metal working tools especially but some woodworking also), as they normally carry them, just be sure to specify imperial and not metric if JBs saw.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[KeithAug]

On 4/1/2019 at 2:07 PM, cog said:

To expensive Keith, with shipping and all

Carl - I think this is the size you need. diameters are correct but I have not checked thickness . But you should be able to sort this out with a file. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Saw-Blade-Bore-BUSHES-Saw-Reducing-RINGS-Bushing-WASHERS-Sawblade-SPACERS-/160910979685

 

Edited April 3, 2019 by KeithAug

[cog]

Thanks Keith, that is most kind of you!

[vossiewulf]

On 3/4/2019 at 2:59 PM, Thistle17 said:

My new blades arrived and I installed a like for like Thurston I-292 and it works great!

I don't know whether anyone answered one of your earlier questions, yes it makes total sense for blade dullness to show up first in ripping vs. crosscutting. Ripping is far more stressful because the blade is basically cutting end grain. Crosscutting is side grain and much easier.