18th Century Pinnace by Delf - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:24 scale - SMALL

[Chuck]

That really turned out nicely.  You did a fine job building it.   

[DelF]

Thanks Chuck. 

 

I decided to replace the base. There was nothing wrong with the kit-supplied material, I just felt the castello boxwood was a better match. Hardly surprising, as I milled the planks from the same sheet.

 

I'm definitely marking the log as 'finished' now. Thanks again everyone for the likes and comments. This was my first build log and I really appreciated the support. In another sub-forum Chuck suggested supporting new loggers this way and he's absolutely right, it does make a difference.

 

Derek

31 March 2020

Edited March 31, 2020 by DelF

[MEDDO]

Wonderful results and a great final presentation.  It’s been a pleasure to follow along and see how this kit can be improved on.

[ccoyle]

Very well done!

[Blue Ensign]

Your Pinnace looks beautiful Derek,  and nicely photographed as well.

Well done.

 

B.E.

[GrandpaPhil]

Congratulations!  Well done!

[Chuck]

Man oh Man you did a great job on that.   Fantastic.   Whats next?  How about a that second new build log?  I actually like the blue frieze better than the red!!!

 

Chuck

[DelF]

Thanks Guys, much appreciated.

11 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Whats next? 

HMS Speedy will keep me occupied for a while. Alongside that I'm currently torn between your Queen Anne's Barge (having read Meddo's log) and your 18th Century Longboat. I love your small vessels. I will also get back to HMS Winchelsea when I can get my act together. I started well on her but hit a block when I found the keel pieces didn't fit together well. Basically, I'd messed up copying the plans. I've had other projects to keep me occupied so I think I've been putting off getting back to Winchelsea. But I shall. 

 

Derek

[Ryland Craze]

Beautiful job on your Pinnace.  Your work is very crisp and clean.  I like the modifications you made to the kit version.

[Chuck]

That turned out so beautiful.  Just came across this log again.  That was a very fun project.  You did a marvelous job on it.

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

On 3/31/2020 at 12:28 PM, DelF said:

Thanks Chuck. 

 

I decided to replace the base. There was nothing wrong with the kit-supplied material, I just felt the castello boxwood was a better match. Hardly surprising, as I milled the planks from the same sheet.

 

I'm definitely marking the log as 'finished' now. Thanks again everyone for the likes and comments. This was my first build log and I really appreciated the support. In another sub-forum Chuck suggested supporting new loggers this way and he's absolutely right, it does make a difference.

 

Derek

31 March 2020

Brilliant work and outcome Derek, thanks for showing , Vlad 

[DelF]

Thanks Chuck & Vlad.

 

I've just ordered Model Shipways' 18th Century Longboat - another Chuck-designed classic that should make a fine addition to the fleet.

 

Derek

[EricWilliamMarshall]

A great log full of interesting tidbits! Your version looks amazing!

[DelF]

Thanks Eric - I hope you find it of some use in your own build.

 

Derek

[rudybob]

On 11/12/2019 at 9:55 AM, DelF said:

Started on the fairing. The miniature chisels from Veritas are ideal for getting into tight places. The one shown is 1/8".

Before going much further I decided to try to harden the keel a bit with some coats of shellac. I just need to look at the basswood and I get dints in it.

I'm glad I decided to go for boxwood for the planking and fittings. Not easy to see in the photo, but straight off the saw the boxwood has an almost mirror sheen compared to the timber supplied in the kit. Don't get me wrong, the kit timber is very good quality as far as it goes - straight, consistent colour and dimensions and no faults - but it is basswood. I know some people get great results with it 'cos I've seen their logs, but boxwood is more forgiving for someone at my skill level.

Dry fitting to see how the fairing's going.

Not bad so far, but shortly after this a 6mm section broke off the side of one of the frames. I was just holding the boat in one hand whilst fairing the other side, and applying very little pressure. Gluing it back in position was easy, but the breakage demonstrated just how fragile the frames are and what soft hands you need.

 

I'll leave the dockyard now - enough excitement for one day!

 

On 11/12/2019 at 9:55 AM, DelF said:

 

How tight were you able to get your planks to the bulkheads using that clip setup? I have not achieved a tight fit using two different brands of clips. I am using the smallest I can find which are smaller than yours. I also have larger ones and my one attempt (with what I would call a midsize) was not satisfactory. If you have some insights on their construction and use that would be helpful. Thanks 

 

[rudybob]

On 11/24/2019 at 10:39 AM, DelF said:

Thanks OC. 

Not much progress over the last few days - more time spent in the garden preparing for Winter than in the dockyard. I tried marking the frames but with mixed success. I'm sure I understand the principle, and I printed off a fan and prepared tick strips as per instructions:

I don't know if it is because the frames are very narrow or I'm too cack-handed, but I found it very difficult to hold the tick strip against the frame edge and mark it. I just couldn't mark the frames accurately enough. For example, if I marked two frames that I knew were the same size (when measured from the rabbet to the sheer), the marks didn't line up exactly. In the end I decided that, because the frames were all of a very similar dimension apart from the last 3 or 4 from the bow and stern, I could safely fit the first couple of strakes on each side, and possibly the garboard strakes, then have another go at marking off the remaining gaps. 

Taking another tip from Chuck Passaro, I got hold of a cheap travel iron to help with edge bending - works a treat! 

To bend strips in the flat dimension I clamped them to a variety of curved surfaces and used a hot air blower to set the shape. I got the first strake on but clearly hadn't curved it enough at the stern:

I wanted to see if I could increase the curve by heating the plank in situ, but wasn't sure which side of the wood it would be best to apply the water and heat to. So I did a couple of quick tests with a scrap piece of strip on the bench.

It didn't seem to matter which side I went, the curve stayed in either way. 

I ended up hedging my bets and applying water and hot air to both sides whilst holding the strip tight against the transom. When released there was a marked improvement which should glue up much better.

Meanwhile, back to the garden and my new favourite tool (next to my Byres saw that is) - a petrol shredder that takes branches up to 4".

 

Thanks for the in situ heat and water tip. When I thought of it, since it was my idea, I thought it goofy. Now that I see you doing it I tried it and it helps.  

[DelF]

7 hours ago, rudybob said:

Thanks for the in situ heat and water tip

No problem. Most wood bending includes heat and/or water - if you've not seen them I'd recommend Chuck Passaro's videos which you'll find under Planking Techniques in the Modelling Techniques section at the top of the forum home page. Personally I try to use heat on its own where I can as water can cause unwanted expansion. See this link to my latest build where I describe ruining a major component by soaking it too long.

 

Derek

[Wawona59]

On 11/9/2019 at 10:47 AM, MEDDO said:

When i dry fitted the frames some were loose and some too tight.  just a but fitting out got them all into good enough shape.  

 

(if you like the quality of the Pinnace instructions which are excellent the ones for Chuck's Queen Anne Barge are even better)

I'm in for any kit that Chuck designs.  I'll be making two Pinnace models as Christmas presents for my doctors this year.  I've also got Chuck's Confederacy in the model stash waiting for my skills to improve.