HM Brig-Sloop Speedy by glennard2523 - Vanguard Models - 1/64

[Glenn-UK]

5 hours ago, DelF said:

Hi Glenn

 

Apologies if you’ve mentioned this and I’ve missed it, but have you applied a finish to your copper, or do you plan to? I see some people use varnish or lacquer whilst others prefer the copper to tarnish naturally. What’s your preference?

 

Derek

Hello Derek

I prefer to apply a clear matt varnish finish to my copper plating.

[Glenn-UK]

A little pit more progress today.

 

I have used a 0.8mm drill on the 20 off swivel guns and clued the swivel gun handles into position. I will delay fixing these gun assemblies to the build until I'm ready to finalise the fitting of all the deck items.

I have also fitted the belaying pin racks to the hull assembly. I did follow the advise the manual and used a pin to provide additional support. I'm planning to build and fit the channel assemblies next together with the gun tackle eyebolts and cleats.

[Glenn-UK]

I have now painted the channels and cleats. They have all be drilled (using a 0.6mm drill) so the pins for additional support when fixing these items to the hull can be glued in place. It should be noted that only 6 off (3 per side) of the larger cleats are provided with the kit which is in line with the instruction manual requirements. I will fit 4 per side however, as indicated on plan sheet 4, as I did have  some spares.

 

I have also fitted the 3mm and 5mm deadeyes to their respective chain plates. It did not take to much effort to open up the chain plates to accept the deadeyes and then to close them back up again. The deadeye can still be rotated to ensure they are in the correct position when the rigging stage commences. I may add a touch a ca in advance to help secure the deadeyes in the correct alignment.

 

I did drop one 3mm deadeye on the floor and despite my best efforts it is now deemed to be "MIA"

 

 

Edited April 6, 2020 by glennard2523

[DelF]

More great progress. At this rate you'll beat Chris's benchmark of 50 hours to complete Speedy!

 

Derek

[VTHokiEE]

50 minutes ago, DelF said:

More great progress. At this rate you'll beat Chris's benchmark of 50 hours to complete Speedy!

 

Derek

Ha! I’m pretty certain that I’ll spend almost 50 hours on the second planking alone on my Alert (alright maybe a slight exaggeration, but probably at least 25).

 

Looking very nice though!

[Glenn-UK]

The pins have now been glued in the channels and cleats. I then dry fitted the cleats to ensure the support pins had been trimmed to the right length.

 

To ensure the channels are correctly positioned and so that I drill the holes accurately on the hull to accept the support pins I used my 2mm tape. I positioned lengths of tape in the correct position for the channels based plan sheet 4 along the hull. I then offered up each channel to the tape (at 90 degrees) and marked the position of the support pins on to the tape. Once I was happy the markings on the tape were in the correct position I used my 0.6mm drill to make the holes for the channel support pins. See pictures below (not great quality)

 

Cleats dry fitted

Taping of channel positions and marking of the support pin locations.

Dry fitting of the channels to check the pin holes are deep enough.

[Glenn-UK]

I have now dry fitted the chain plates with the channels. According to the plan sheets the lower end of the 5mm deadeye chain plates should terminate at the lower edge of the wale. It would seem they actually terminate just below the lower edge of the wale. From what I can see from the build photos in the manual the chain plates do terminate below the bottom edge of the wales.

 

It is possible to ensure that the chain plates terminate with the lower wale edge, noting the deadeye would be slightly raised above the channel.

 

After Post Comment

After looking at the bending and shaping of the lower part of the chain plate and noting the channel can be raised up a tad as the top edge needs to be level with the lower edge of the gun port (the are only dry fitted at the moment) I have decided to locate the top chain plate pin hole in the wale and to locate the lower chain plate pin hole below the wale.

 

The two photos below shows the channel can be repositioned a tad and also the shaping and current position of one of the chain plates.

Edited April 7, 2020 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

I have painted and fitted the swivel guns (all twenty) and I have started to add all the deck fittings.

 

I have dry fitted the bowsprit, fore mast and main mast, all cut on the long side. The yellow  tape indicates the true length of these items.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Speedy has now come to life now that all the deck fitting have been fitted. After much inner discussions I have decided not to rig the 4lb cannons.

 

Next stage will be the production of the all masts. bowsprit, yards, etc.

[VTHokiEE]

Wow, great work! May I ask what the final deciding factor was to not rig the cannons?

[Glenn-UK]

I have rigged cannons before, however this kit dies not include the parts for this task. Also I decided that once Speedy has been rigged the lack of rigging on the 4lb cannons would not overly distract from the final build. I would have probably rigged the cannons if I could have done them "off deck" using a cannon rigging jig, which I used in a previous build. This was not going to be possible as I had already glued in the eyebolts to the cannon assemblies.

[DelF]

Wow! She’s really coming to life. 

[Glenn-UK]

Today I started work in earnest on the bowsprit.

 

I used my 1mm and 2mm tape to mark the edge and the angle for the cut for the bowsprit cap (part 126) and to indicate the correct positions of the various parts, see the two photos below.

Some items need to be fitted to the side(s). As the material for the bowsprit is a 6mm dowel I used a 3mm wide piece of wood to mark the correct position as shown in the photo below which was taken when marking the position of the bowsprit bees. The break in the tap edge tape is the 0.8mm hole I had drilled for the jibboom saddle.

The photo below shows the test fitting of the 2 off bowsprit bee's, jibboom saddle and bowsprit fairlead cleat. The parts were then removed and painted black. I have also drilled the holes for (and painted black) the 11 off bowsprit cleats. The bowsprit was tapered (using my mini lathe) so the bowsprit cap would fit.

I have also started work on the jibboom. I started by drilling the 0.8mm hole and then tapering the jibboon (using my mini lathe) so the bowsprit cap and jibboom and flying jibboom bracket will fit.

The final photo show the bowsprit and jibboom dry fitted to the boat.

 

 

Edited April 11, 2020 by glennard2523

[NewbyMark]

On 4/10/2020 at 3:17 PM, glennard2523 said:

I have rigged cannons before, however this kit dies not include the parts for this task. Also I decided that once Speedy has been rigged the lack of rigging on the 4lb cannons would not overly distract from the final build. I would have probably rigged the cannons if I could have done them "off deck" using a cannon rigging jig, which I used in a previous build. This was not going to be possible as I had already glued in the eyebolts to the cannon assemblies.

I took the alternative view. I could not stand to see them without restraints, so I have ordered the required parts. I also ordered replacement belaying pins because I didn't really like the PE pins (not sure PE is really suitable for these parts). I think they were the only two changes I'd make to the kit though, thoroughly enjoying the experience otherwise. Your build looks great, looking forward to seeing her finished!

[Glenn-UK]

I'm still working on the bowsprit assembly. I have now manufactured the flying jibboon and spritsail. It has been a lot of fun using the mini lathe to get the correct tapering.

 

The picture below shows the bowsprit, jibboom and flying jibboom dry fitted to the hull. It was a bit difficult to add the spritsail to the dry fit but I did manage to take a picture. I will add the cleats, deadeyes, blocks, eyebolts, etc. to these items before moving on to the manufacture of the fore mast and main mast and their associated  yards and spars. I think this will take quite a few days.

 

With Spritsail

Without Spritsail

Edited April 12, 2020 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

35 minutes ago, NewbyMark said:

I took the alternative view. I could not stand to see them without restraints, so I have ordered the required parts. I also ordered replacement belaying pins because I didn't really like the PE pins (not sure PE is really suitable for these parts). I think they were the only two changes I'd make to the kit though, thoroughly enjoying the experience otherwise. Your build looks great, looking forward to seeing her finished!

I would normally rig the cannons. I was not too sure about the PE belaying pins but will try using them. I do have some wooden belaying pins which I could possible use if necessary. 

[Suzdal]

Glennard

 

I've been following along your build of the Speedy with a lot of interest while in confinement. Am also interested in tackling the ship.

 

Forgive me for asking, if you've already answered the question.

 

What is your mini lath that you're using to tackle the various yards and etc, ... ?

 

Richard

[Glenn-UK]

2 minutes ago, Suzdal said:

Glennard

 

I've been following along your build of the Speedy with a lot of interest while in confinement. Am also interested in tackling the ship.

 

Forgive me for asking, if you've already answered the question.

 

What is your mini lath that you're using to tackle the various yards and etc, ... ?

 

Richard

Hello Richard

I bought the Proxxon DB250 Micro woodturning lathe a few years ago. It seems to do the job Ok. 

[glbarlow]

8 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

PE belaying pins

PE pins seems to me an odd choice for a kit of this quality, perhaps Chris will explain that decision. At any rate there went my plan to build the kit “as is”. I’ll be looking for some decent quality wood pins. 

[glbarlow]

7 hours ago, glennard2523 said:

Proxxon DB250 Micro woodturning lathe

I have the very complex and high end battery powered hand drill. That a few files, sandpaper and a dust mask and away I go. 😊😏🤣 

Edited April 13, 2020 by glbarlow

[DelF]

4 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I’ll be looking for some decent quality wood pins

Will you find any at 1/64 scale? They're usually far too fat and need sanding/turning down (I use a home made draw plate in combination with the Proxxon lathe - a drill or Dremel-type tool would do just as well). But at 1/64 the pin would need a handle of around 0.8mm diameter and a shaft 0.5mm to be in proportion. Once draped with rope would the PE pins stand out that much? I suppose you could always buy a few properly turned brass pins for locations where they will show more. For example 5mm pins from Cornwall Model Boats @ about 22p for 10 seem quite realistic. Either way you would have to paint them.

 

I think I'll reserve judgement until I get to that stage (by which time Glenn will have finished Speedy and probably another two models beside! 😁)

 

Derek

[chris watton]

4 hours ago, glbarlow said:

PE pins seems to me an odd choice for a kit of this quality, perhaps Chris will explain that decision. At any rate there went my plan to build the kit “as is”. I’ll be looking for some decent quality wood pins. 

Hi

 

I am sure I explained my decision to go for PE belaying pins. Top be honest, I have no problem buying standard belaying pins, cost is definitely not an issue, they are so cheap.

 

The problem was one of size, the smallest belaying pin I could buy was a lot larger than the actual scale size pin. Perhaps we are all too used to seeing oversize pins on model kits, and  think it is the norm. When drawing the pins from scale drawings, I was initially surprised at just how small these were in 64th scale (As I too am too used the standard fare). This is when I took the decision to make them in PE, for true scale appearance. What is the point of endeavouring to design all parts as accurate as possible, scale-wise, and then using big fat oversize belaying pins. Cost doesn't enter into the equation, as far as I am concerned, I just was as much scale accuracy as my budgets will allow - and costs for standard belaying pins doesn't even come into the equation, so please do not think for a second they are in PE due to cost. In fact, the PE is one of the most expensive materials that go into kits.

[Glenn-UK]

Great answer Chris. I will continue to use the kit supplied belaying pins

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, chris watton said:

The problem was one of size,

Thanks for the explanation Chris, if you'd explained it before I missed it.  I certainly understand about the scale and fat pin issue, that makes sense.  I think my issue will be the two dimensional aspect of a PE pin, but I'll give them a try when I reach that point. Working at 1:64 does present it's challenges. Again thanks for taking the time to explain - and for the record I didn't ever think it was a cost issue.

[chris watton]

1 minute ago, glbarlow said:

Thanks for the explanation Chris, if you'd explained it before I missed it.  I certainly understand about the scale and fat pin issue, that makes sense.  I think my issue will be the two dimensional aspect of a PE pin, but I'll give them a try when I reach that point. Working at 1:64 does present it's challenges. Again thanks for taking the time to explain - and for the record I didn't ever think it was a cost issue.

If they are painted (or sprayed), the paint gives them a more rounded appearance, kind of like those little Tamiya PE figures for the warship kits.

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, DelF said:

Will you find any at 1/64 scale?

It's a good point and I'll retract my objection until I see how the PE versions look on mine.  The brass ones are the best choice I think, I've ordered 8mm ones I'll blacken for my 1:48 Cheerful, I'm not turning anything on a lathe regardless of size, I'd hurt myself.  

[chris watton]

I know that for the Amati 64th scale Victory, I had to choose the smallest belaying pins Amati did. Up until then, they were hardly ever used, as most 'chubby' wooden ones went into the kits or shiny turned brass pins. What I used for Victory I just about got away with, scale wise, as the model is so large anyway. I just about managed to add every belaying pin that the full size ship had. If you look at most commercial models, there are a lot less pins than the real thing, this is because what is used in the kits are comically over size.

[glbarlow]

Didn’t mean to create a problem, I guess like you said I’d grown use to the comically sized fat ones. 
 

I have a similar issue with Amati and my current model, the swivel guns are bigger than the cannon. 

[chris watton]

21 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Didn’t mean to create a problem, I guess like you said I’d grown use to the comically sized fat ones. 
 

I have a similar issue with Amati and my current model, the swivel guns are bigger than the cannon. 

No problems at all, it at the very least gives me a chance to explain certain aspects of design/material choices.

 

ETA - I did the top of the ship's pumps for the same reason. I designed them initially in 3-D CAD, but the people who do the casting for me told me the parts were too fine to be cast correctly, they would need 'beefing up'. I preferred to keep the scale appearance, so opted for PE parts instead, as they look better, more 'delicate' when in place and painted. Again, commercial choices were out of the question.

Edited April 13, 2020 by chris watton

[NewbyMark]

22 hours ago, chris watton said:

If they are painted (or sprayed), the paint gives them a more rounded appearance, kind of like those little Tamiya PE figures for the warship kits.

I didn’t mean to cause a stir with my comment - apologies if any offence caused. I’ve ordered a few different options to compare to the kit parts as I personally didn’t like PE, but totally respect that you were going for scale appearance with your choice Chris. In case it hasn’t been clear, I love the kit. You only need to point some glue at it and it almost builds itself. It was just one area I’d have preferred a turned part. Anyway I won’t hijack this build log just wanted to apologise if I’d caused any offence!