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Posted (edited)

I'm currently considering looking at several models for my next build and I have noticed that quite a few models now have laser etched decks provided. I was wondering just how realistic they look compared to decks which are planked with individual planks? I can see the appeal of the laser etched deck in the simplicity that it adds to this step the build and the ease with which you can get a flawless pattern for the deck planking, but how does it actually look when it is finally sanded and finished? Does it look authentic by comparison to and individually planked decks?

Edited by BobG

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

Posted

It depends upon the material. If the wood grain is visible it will look pretty hokey, in my opinion - all the boards having a continuous grain pattern and color.

 

Natural wood boards have different grain patterns and different colors. However, if the deck is bleached and holystoned all the boards will be about the same color, and lighter than many natural woods.

 

I enjoy the challenge and satisfaction of planking the deck. Even if the kit had a printed/etched deck I would still use individual planks.

 

Phil

 

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted

As always in life, there is never a simple answer to a simple question ?

 

A laser-engraved deck cannot look really 'realistic' for a number of reasons:

 

- the engraved line is likely to be too wide for technical reasons (but this depends on the scale of the model)

- deck seems are filled-in with oakum and sealed with pitch because the deck planks expand and contract due to changes in humidity and temperature - when it is dry and cold, the seams are slightly depressed, when it is wet and warm, the seams slightly rise above the planks, because the latter expand

- laser-cut decks are obviously cut from one sheet of (ply-)wood with one overall pattern of wood-grain, while in reality each plank has its own pattern; ideally the sheet would be cut from a wood with virtually no visible pattern of grain - ideally ...

- the colour of each plank varies slightly, particularly, when not exessively holy-stoned.

 

There would various strategies to make such deck look more 'realistic':

 

- One could selectively stain each plank with very dilute stain in order to create this variability.

- One could also first sand and seal such deck and then fill the engraved grooves with e.g. oil paint. After some drying time any excess oil paint can be scraped off; this would only work, when the engraved seams are not too wide.

 

For any scale above 1:72 or so I would think that laying individual planks would be a more rewarding strategy. At smaller scales it may be still possible physically, but the wood grain may be too prominent, even after surface treatment.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Interesting question that I've actually never thought of. Each to their own in this case. In all my builds I've used the etched deck as the false deck and planked over that with the planks supplied in the kit for the deck. I use a wider planking strip for the margin planks and a slightly thicker plank for the king plank.

Allen

 

Current Builds: Mayflower - 1:60; Golden Hind - 1:50

Past Builds: Marie Jeanne, Bluenose, Bluenose II, Oseberg, Roar Ege,

Waiting to Build: Swift; Skipjack

 

Posted

Bob,

 

The scale has to be a consideration. For example, I do a lot of stuff in 1:200 and 1:350 where the laser etched or printed decks look great. I have seen a couple of examples of planking or painting at those scales and, although I’m really impressed with the effort, life’s just too short and my stash is too big😎

 

Don

Posted (edited)

It is interesting to note that quite a few contemporary dockyard models, from the 18th to 20th Century have single wood decks with the lines scribed on. In some cases, this even applies to the hull planking.

 

I guess it all comes down to personal preferences and experience. Many kits, if not the majority have deck planking in strips. Trouble is that sometimes, the strips are so wide it ruins the scale effect. At least with etched decks, the lines can be exactly to scale and include the curves of some planks. Some can achieve this with planking separate strips, but a lot cannot.

Edited by chris watton

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Posted

I have a maple etched deck from Chris for HM Speedy replacing the pear that came with the kit. 
 

While I haven’t installed it yet so I don’t how it will look sanded I can tell you without hesitation it is anything but hokey or taking the easy way out. A laser etched deck is definitely an item that could run the gambit in quality. My maple deck from Vanguard Models instantly changed my mine about planking it myself. 
 

I've planked the decks of nine models, always kit bashing using my own cut holly. I have some nice looking decks, except for the fact that once it’s masted, rigged, and furniture in place you barely notice. 
 

While I’ll cut and plank the deck for Cheerful, I’ll use the laser etched maple deck on the shipwright version of HM Flirt and be proud of it. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Royal Barge, Medway Long Boat
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

Posted

I’ve noticed that many printed decks do not follow prototype ship building rules regarding margin planks/joggling, so maybe they should be planked as a matter of course? I am building Billings H.M.S. Renown’s Pinnace and used it as my first attempt at margin planks etc. (Only to find out the deck was covered in Corticene - I must spend more time on research next time!)

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