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Byblos by Schrader - FINISHED - 1:32 - Egyptian Seagoing Ship


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I want to start with a new log.  George just finished his project related with an ancient Egyptian Seagoing Ship, dated 2500 years BC.  It brought to me a lot of curiosity.... so I decided to start my own.....so many steps,  documents to read, CAD to build my own plans an so.

 

Amati has the same model, but it comes with a lot of simplifications, as George already mentioned and from my point of view, with some mistakes....

 

LET’S START !!!!!!!!

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First we have to know, that there is a lot of literature about the Egyptian ancient ships. I tried to gather an read as much I could. Having in consideration all those that George sent to me, plus others that really brought my attention 
 
3E14D00F-F1A2-4935-9B53-346DFC8503D3.thumb.png.8f33c17a7bf51900261f4ca79f82c95b.png
 
Must of all are regarding/related to “river” boats or even to funerary boats.  But taking in consideration the era - Fifth Dynasty - and some information collected in all these articles, I came to the conclusion that all construction methods are pretty much the same for all those boats, with some differences that make the Seagoing Egyptians ships more resistentes.
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In the book Ships of the Pharaoh, there is chapter dedicated to this kind of ships, where based in some draws found in Sahure king tomb, where we can see a lot of details, and will help us (as they helped George) to build it as much accurately possible

 

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In the log, we will be finding and building as much elements as we can

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We can not start to build this model without talking a little bit about history.

 

WOOD

The wood came pretty much from Byblos ( Coast city from Lebanon).  The wood found in those tombs is Cedar from Lebanon, which is a kind of coniferous, and today there are a lot of questions about the transportation method.  Ships, Barges or even towed in the water.  Having in consideration the drying process they have, that was slow, in open space and with natural change of temperature (avoiding damages), did not make sense that the wood came to Egypt floating on the water.

 

HULL

By these times, the hull structure was very heavy.  Planks were sewed with ropes no nails were founded

 

0AC1C3A5-AF8C-42D2-AFCF-23122F2CBF4D.thumb.png.7a97fe41084e72fa482a913f946ff672.png

the idea behind it was.....It looks like the ships were built near the Nile river, deassembled - transported to the read/see and assemble again.

 

The structure was pretty much based in the planks.  So thick and heavy.  The frames were installed after the hull was completed and they had to be accommodate to the battens ( they were used to help the hull tightness)

 

102BEC96-6257-481A-817D-5232D66B8F37.thumb.png.50c5017e4bb1eb1445e4627e135275af.png

The discussion about keel or not keel is another story.  But for this era looks like that the keel was not existed yet.

 

 

 

Note we will going in more detail to the hull once we start to build it

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Let’s see some other hull elements.....not without mentioning that these information has come from

 

AFCA028D-F572-4E5B-B5D8-B16B171147A8.thumb.png.bc7d2889947c397b3da9bac72ab36e1f.png

As I mentioned because the era, the hull construction is the same.

Above the frames, a stanchion that support the central girder........

 

79495B9B-CFB4-4D0C-8B3C-46BFCDC32421.thumb.png.b9dca2c13ce81184e7b454241026bf6a.png

 

Here is where we come with the ¨keel¨!!!!!..... according with the documentation the ¨first¨kell in these kind of ships were these three girders.....

 

2B5C11CD-5B3F-4571-89C7-C935F001D37D.thumb.jpeg.97a7708714eb9f66048842fdd39e5672.jpeg

 

My nightmare is ¨configuring¨ my mind in order to achieve as much detail as I can  !!!!

 

 

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¨Nightmare number one........How the stanchions are fixed to the frames?

 

Here the answer......book Ships of the Pharaoh

 

09EC51BA-21EA-4D65-B5BA-27535B3AEE3E.thumb.jpeg.ed2a6e9d7314301d806f22973ee9990f.jpeg

same picture is coming with details about my “second” nightmare......How the frames are fixed to the planks.....

 

”Nightmare” number three......how the planks are sewed one each other?...... Well.......

 

We can se some “V” channels (Number 2) in the picture above....those were used to pass through the rope...so....

 

HOW TO MAKE THEM? If in the scale I am working on the plank width are only 4.2 mm?  (In scale 1:1 are 14 - 17 cm)....... well..... we will see.

 

 

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PLANKS
Something we as a modeler have been custom to see, are planks that go from stem to stern....... but here that is not the case. Even though some symmetrical “appearance” is between both sides, look like the forms are completely out of any logic......

 

7FC8FE25-E942-4C0D-BEB9-56ADEA178301.thumb.jpeg.b74ab3019dd49c00fdd4cf9d8e8b4bae.jpeg

 

In the picture above we can see how the planks are looking like in the Khufu ship. Let’s remember that we are talking about the same era (Fifth Dynasty) so for our model, we will be taking the same idea.

Planks were very thick piece of wood. In this case, the bottom had 8 planks, up to 7 m long and 14-16 cm thick. The sides also 14-16 cm thick but up to 23 m long.

By this time, the ships belonged to the “SHELF-FIRST” tradition. Which meant that the lateral and longitudinal strength resided in the hull. Take a look about the scarfs.....the intention behind was to increase the length of the “joint” between planks increasing the strength of the hull.

Mortice and tennos were used to align the planks

 

4DC3BC7F-6440-4136-AF5B-B5AB725ECEE3.jpeg.c43b04e14292b3f341a8dc493795c813.jpeg

 

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Looks like a fascinating build. I think I’ll tag along.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Let’s work a little bit in the real model.....

 

In the Ships of the Pharaoh I found a plan/picture related to this model.

 

30B88EBC-31E0-410B-8406-CAAF4273ADCF.jpeg.677cb7763b72c2b4374628a1617cf55a.jpeg

I took it, imported the PDF to my Autocad,  scaled  it to 1:32........

 

4DF910EB-03C2-43C7-90A0-0ACB02D9B5B4.thumb.jpeg.f39834f65179190df459e6a7d0122c07.jpeg

13BE1AD9-16BA-4474-B28B-E41F3A66FA8F.thumb.jpeg.d881bc8deb5fbb5416f31c27bf3f3cf4.jpeg

Based in this final plan, I went to the “frames” picture I did the same......

 

C22F1238-B237-478A-A9A8-4B97F745599C.thumb.jpeg.39d893efb3a27defeab89e6fea670e63.jpeg

Then.... I built a “ship” with false frames and false keel........all puzzle pieces in three dimensions........

 

5AC4903B-B0F4-4FD5-A689-109E4B982CBD.thumb.jpeg.9a35d2ad27a8c1d3a985c97a82e7b7be.jpeg

657A506B-8FB4-49F5-8929-97D177A1B56A.thumb.jpeg.88daa69e253626530206d70037242a7c.jpeg

Put them apart .......

 

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E0692BAD-F444-4681-8E67-CD5C5F50AA30.thumb.jpeg.446d768e1df83c834ee81e2441e1b2ed.jpeg

and here we go.......

 

with 5 mm MDF I got it!!!!!! The “mold” to start with the real construction.. 17 frames

 

C9D36F9E-95AE-4A28-82EA-16A3DCADEB1C.thumb.jpeg.caf6f8f8b1ea1e0136907d4bb847c3aa.jpeg

9A748594-896A-45AD-A650-5A247A6CB8F1.thumb.jpeg.bd70933d443d597df3f244e148b09637.jpeg

02BF6EB6-FA5C-419A-9871-D624A968AB8C.thumb.jpeg.771dc200305abe8ff2d9311c8a0f4cff.jpeg

3772C1E8-A990-41FE-9CA9-1BB80200E353.thumb.jpeg.7b57c6eefcaa2d2542f5f5012368f33e.jpeg

 

 

 

 

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After studying, making questions... and thinking how to solve the “nightmare” “V” channels ( to hold the seams). I decided to “copy” some idea that a friend of mine from Spain Vladimir Herrero had when he built his Keops....

Well it sound very simple but.... believe me it is not...... double planking..... the interior is the one that will have “all” the work....V channels (2), battens (8) and frames

 

F8B567CA-B6BC-4F5E-A4C7-39B92FBA362E.thumb.jpeg.f4ca8374f557286d9247a1f6f5f7eb17.jpeg

 


The thickness for this scale will be about 4.2 mm. So I took to lumbers 2.1mm thick with double face tape.....to make “identical“ pieces.....

But first.....and after seeing how “strange” forms those planks had.... I made a sketch of it.

 

397D74E1-3CEB-4104-9838-60BED7BEBDAE.thumb.jpeg.45c6b03894e6264277440f98c5dd2e7b.jpeg


Cut the templates (double lumber jointed with double face tape)

 

D6A3E7F8-6F28-4538-A145-9F2AFD8DD77D.thumb.jpeg.ddf24d4ac21a8eabf18ab0efe08ba5da.jpeg

Adjusted and separated...

 

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E91D2574-BEEB-40F9-85C5-2B7F575F0BD7.thumb.jpeg.0eb8c47c987f7cfb139df53d2d3c13c5.jpeg

We have two “Identical” twins....!!!!!!

 

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But...... after taking it to my sight.... I realized that the planks “sketch” was out of scale.... so decided to repeat it ...... this is the new comparing with the old one....

 

6718A905-1F6E-45A7-8B74-A26D449197E4.thumb.jpeg.2e519e50254d1bb5fdd4296d9ad23579.jpeg

 

10ECEB39-6E59-406E-B2FE-C57FE4B50E19.thumb.jpeg.224229de0e9f0a126deef5192f1ef39d.jpeg


The new one is looking better....So I decided to move forward. Using the same methodology...... this the result...

 

83693294-E8EB-4614-8125-93986928F922.thumb.jpeg.309df48ac278fef5ac6439517895b16e.jpeg

I made these littler channel in the joints to insert the battens and in the back side I made some other channels to ”hide” the seams at the time we have to install the exterior hull.

 

33C260D9-3D73-4C8F-A273-9AF8E19BA2AE.thumb.jpeg.5277625a0f9e247efa4c966f33d81941.jpeg

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After working with my “second” attempt I realized that:
 
  1. The choice about using two equal thick planks for the two hulls (interior and exterior) was not the best.....The channels left no wood to work with so the lineal holes drilling was a disaster. In conclusion I‘lol keeP the two hulls but the interior will be in 3.2 mm an the exterior will be in 1.2 mm.
  2. The “forms” I was using for the planks were not accurate according with the documents I found. Even though we need to create as much “lineal” contact between planks to create “more“ resistance and strength, I was working with “curves” and should be with straight lines....

648B37B4-38C5-4B96-BD4E-2119F4B6ED7B.thumb.jpeg.42a421cf9ce85447b7046655b7840d29.jpeg

 

B41C30A2-F452-4677-9EC3-F14375248A19.thumb.jpeg.6ed7b6a3e488cbced790e57288df91e6.jpeg

 

95D86E7F-A0E8-4FFC-9254-0C0597C91CCE.thumb.jpeg.a28ac72a9eec831e5b28a8483f60aba7.jpeg

 

 

 

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With the 3.2 mm I was able to work the channels an lineal holes.....

 

10F53A9D-5B3D-435E-BA90-30617313049D.thumb.jpeg.ddcb8c39cbcf6d7620f1f34cbc6cfe89.jpeg

0C0DC1D2-3D59-434E-9614-8ABE1647FAE1.thumb.jpeg.3db0ad1b19d9dbfdb35e5a835d4a7bd5.jpeg9C2EB0C6-6FE0-48BB-A5EE-F388B49CBF14.thumb.jpeg.c492c2e24df5eca7b389a3b2ff280d0a.jpeg

 

This face is the one that at the end will be hidden....

Finally I was able to put it in the mold to configure the curve and forms...

 

23A15235-1FAC-4361-854D-51AECB5D0A43.thumb.jpeg.85776aa84e6463da4e994c0bb9e7d71d.jpeg

 

It is time to start with the laterals...... it will continue

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All  very interesting Hellmuht. The irregularities in the hull design are quite amazing. The ancients seem to make life hard for themselves.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

17D8FFB4-D927-4901-A631-2BCA1ACDC35C.thumb.jpeg.1f0a436881f271ed604356a2c8e42c8d.jpegHere I am again.....

 

After doing mu research and many attempts, I realized the the Egyptians were right 😀😀.  The sides planking with planks 3.2 mm thick was so tough.  So I took the image above and went to “copy” more or less the distribution and..........BINGO!!!!!  They fitted.... But before I needed to have somehow, the way I could fixed the planks without attaching them to the mold.  Let’s remember that the frames were something that were installed after many tasks so the planks needed to “stay” there by themselves.

 

I built a couple of pieces.....

 

A1FCB74F-806B-4DC7-AB80-35E5B87D6362.thumb.jpeg.eeef96bdc0bcaf1b8e0a7a5bd3d18dbe.jpeg

 

 

Longer that it was needed and I glued them to the base an to the mold.  The idea was to glue the planks to these pieces.... Let’s see.....

 

DB71267A-6423-42D0-9424-07BA8DD4EA32.thumb.jpeg.7a49b42db66a7dc675d3d869fbabbd71.jpeg3CE0411E-1E3A-4490-8431-A8F53AE90E5E.thumb.jpeg.33f1af5a446f28658d5edd1114cb09db.jpeg0DE4660A-30EE-4A08-9354-74BB301ACD5C.thumb.jpeg.167b40707682c335d3f0e94a9e595479.jpegB1F64A28-48A9-475A-95C2-E0EE7BA72394.thumb.jpeg.4a0694ccdd6eb7ba7a67db3f40c38e42.jpeg3B6CA0AA-7DF6-4FC9-BEA3-0FC45158563D.thumb.jpeg.764d87264493049df27704f8972dbc5e.jpeg

 

Geometrically the planks fitted right.  Just one “line” to go and it will be finished.......Just exterior sanding.  Once the other side is finished we will be able to take the mold out and start to work in the holes and channels.  

 

Really was difficult to keep the planks in its place.  Wood glue,  presses and waits 20-24 hours per plank...🙄

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  • 2 weeks later...


Here I am......

After taking the “mold” out, the result wasn’t the one I expected..... the hull lost its forms and it looked like a “bath tube”😟. So I took my time to analyze how to solve it.

0A9A1698-08F3-45FC-8F03-2AA93DB6C8D3.thumb.jpeg.511596eb3957e0476b10f0d454a1b60c.jpeg

 

In this picture.....

 

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In the magnifiers, there is a rope called “HOGGING-TRUSS” and as its name says..... is for keeping the hull bottom curvature. Once it is installed, I guess, I’ll be able to bring the hull to its real form. Also I learned that the frames had their function too....

 

C6CFF96C-0B13-4C7A-8CB0-397AA7B1EA80.thumb.jpeg.94f87396f3bda0bf5fdb13021d56cb90.jpeg

 

In the way they are tide to the planks, they should work in the other way around......

ONCE THS HOGGING-TRUSS IS STRESSED, THE FRAMES FUNCTION IS TO KEEP THE FORMS IN THE HULL. TOO MUCH STRES IN THE HOGGING-TRUSS COULD DEFORM THE HULL.

In the mid term I decided to use the false frames to keep the hull forms....

 

3B4AB0F4-5B8E-4B5F-95A0-699E5B250E9A.thumb.jpeg.027995fd971c82abfb04f4db0f56315b.jpeg

 

This also taught me that the planking needed to be reinforced since to many Stresses in the process.....

Next chapter we will see how this little issue was solved.........

 

Let’s remember that these ships had in their planks had tenon joints to keep the planks in site....

 

FB9A4F84-CBC0-4DD0-A744-E125E62DD8DD.jpeg.4c7fb3b3f99823c89737dc36316c97b2.jpeg

 

Bt in this scale they would be just decorative......

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I just read through your build log of this very interesting model. Great problem solving! I will be following your progress.

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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