US Brig SYREN 1803 by Justin P. - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Justin P.]

And the end to my 7-month COVID sabbatical has come to an end.   Real work is piling up and my time a the bench dwindling back to my pre-COVID days.   Ho hum...   Im still making progress though and am glad to be seeing the end of the external stages of the hull construction and the beginning of the deck and other bits.  

 

In the last week or so I managed to get the interior planked save the deck.   Im experimenting with some sanding sealer right now to try and keep the fuzzy's down on the basswood before painting.  I sanded everything down to a nice smooth finish and have applied the first coat of sealer, watched the grain raise, and theoretically as I sand it one more time it should be stable for painting and no longer raise up.   Ive also been filing and finish sanding the interior of the gunports as well to get them really clean and integrated nicely with the interior planking.   Then lots of minor clean-up before I move on to the actual painting and deck.   

Of course, just as I was closing up shop for a few days I also had a crisis of detail.   I think most of this time Ive been settling with the result of the transom and I think Im finally resigning myself to the fact that Ill never really be happy with it.   The main issue is how the fashion pieces are aligning/meeting with the molding strips that will eventually frame out the ships name.  Its not fitting together well part because I wasnt entirely sure what I was doing, but also because much of it was guess work.   Im a very visual worker, and images and plans don't help much to figure how this "should look."   The one thing Im certain of is that it shouldn't look like how it currently does...     so in the next few days of commuting/reorienting to my lab Ill be crunching over the coming surgery Ill need to perform to get this straightened out. 

 

 

Edited November 11, 2020 by Justin P.

[NovaStorm]

What a nice clean build you are doing Justin. I don't think you will have to much trouble fixing the fashion piece. 

[Gahm]

I can only agree - a beautiful, clean build!

 

Thomas

[Overworked724]

Justin, I think your cap rail turned out sparkling. Tricky fit that. I think it looks splendid!  Very clean build so far!

 

Like how nicely your wales turned out, too. 

Edited November 12, 2020 by Overworked724

[Justin P.]

21 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Justin, I think your cap rail turned out sparkling. Tricky fit that. I think it looks splendid!  Very clean build so far!

 

Like how nicely your wales turned out, too. 

Patrick, 

 

Thanks...   The more happy I am with a result the more inclined I am to try and make it better...   perfect is the enemy of good, right?   That transition between the rail, and the molding and the Wales is just bothering me...    Im also now hoping I don't ruin it with paint!   Doing a lot of background on paint and will likely mock up again before that stage.   Im loving this build, and am especially thankful there are a few of us working through it at the same time.   

[WalrusGuy]

1 hour ago, Justin P. said:

Doing a lot of background on paint and will likely mock up again before that stage

From what I found on this forum, it is best to thin down the paint to a runny stage (but still a bit more viscous than water) and apply many many coats for an even finish. For the first coat, you should be able to see a bit of the bare wood. After each coat is dry, sand it with a fine sandpaper very lightly, clean the area with a damp tissue/cloth and apply next coat. Once the color starts deepening (about 3 coats in), switch from using sandpaper to a lint-free cloth to smoothen things out. Gives a very nice smooth even finish!

[Justin P.]

On 11/13/2020 at 9:09 AM, WalrusGuy said:

From what I found on this forum, it is best to thin down the paint to a runny stage

Have you got a favorite brand of paint?   Im mostly using Model Expo, which I think is an off-brand version of Tamiya but could be wrong. 

[Justin P.]

Surgery complete...    

 

Im much happier with the result now.   I carefully cut and chiseled out the port and starboard portions of the transom cap and fashion pieces.   Then replaced it with an overly large chunk of similar material and then shaped it back to where should be.   The following photos should show this sequence left to right:

Before (Above)

During (Above)

After, with filler added.   

 

In the end it turned out nicely, and Im sorry I didn't get a better photo to compare to the first iteration.   Its a subtle change, but Im much more pleased than I was before.   I also tried a new technique for carving the molding which turned out a much better result so Im glad for that as well. 

 

Other steps include a light sanding of all the areas Ive applied sanding sealer, and then applied a final coat.   The surface of the wood is much more cohesive, and that really soft spongy look of the basswood is gone.   I think this may become part of my regular process.   Very pleased with it. 

[WalrusGuy]

46 minutes ago, Justin P. said:

Have you got a favorite brand of paint?   Im mostly using Model Expo, which I think is an off-brand version of Tamiya but could be wrong. 

I used the Model Expo paint as well for my Syren. First time I've painted a model so too early to say if it's my favorite 😄

[NovaStorm]

That looks a lot better Justin, I can see a big difference.  ME paint is excellent in mho. It is good for airbrushing as well when thinned down properly. I also find it has a long storage life. 

[glbarlow]

On 11/15/2020 at 9:42 AM, Justin P. said:

a favorite brand of paint

I use Admiralty Paints, I like it so much I order it from a store in the UK as I haven’t found a US source for it.  Humbrol also seems popular.  I went wit Golden Paints for the red on Cheerful, because for it I wanted, really red.

 

I dip the brush in the paint, it a drop falls off it quickly when I pull it out then a second drop slowly forms that’s when I have it thinned enough.

 

Your work is very crisp, nicely done.

[Justin P.]

12 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I use Admiralty Paints

Thanks Glenn, Ill have to look into these and give them a try.   To be honest, painting is not my favorite thing to do to a wood model...   I think I may choose my next project based almost entirely on the how much paint is involved!

[Justin P.]

PAINT.   Nope, not my favorite task at all. 

 

I started with the interior bulkheads using Model Shipways "Red Trim."   Its quite red, but I think after one gets over the shock of the color it actually grows on you a bit.   I also think the effect will die down after other details are integrated.  I think it took about 5 coats, following advice from @Gahm and others.   I have till now used the the diluted layering technique but hadn't not lightly sanding between coats which I must say did make a difference in the final result.  I also did a very fine sanding with a 3000 grit to soften the little gloss I had.   

I then masked and had a go with Model Shipways "Spar Black" for the exterior.   I think if I had to do it again I probably would have gone ahead and got the cap rails fully completed prior to this stage, but it is what it is.  I definitely did not quite think out ahead enough steps here, so will caution anyone reading this and contemplating their own build - success seems to be about being 10 steps ahead of yourself!  Ill just have to be extra careful now when the time comes.  

 

I still have some cleaning up to do and need to complete the transom cap but ran out of weekend.   There are a few tiny things that still need to wrapped up in the transom just as soon as I come up with a solution.  In the absence of Thanksgiving (thanks COVID), this year we are repainting the kitchen and den so I might not get much time in the shop over the next week.   As whenever "we" are doing a house project, its general ME doing much of the work, ha.   Over the last 5 years the kids have absolutely thrashed a few drywall corners so Im started in on replacing the metal corner bead and replastering first thing in the morning, then trim and so on...   ho hum.   

 

I hope you all have a good holiday no matter how you are spending it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 23, 2020 by Justin P.

[NovaStorm]

What you have done looks really good Justin. The gun port openings look really well done and I found them extremely hard to do well. Have a great holiday with the family. Stay safe and enjoy upgrading the kitchen and den for a change of pace  

[Gahm]

Beautiful paint job, Justin! And have a great Thanksgiving (not just drywalling  . . . 😉).

 

Thomas

[Overworked724]

Absolutely wonderful job, Justin. I am not too sure if you are right about your doing the cap rails out of order. I’m actually planning to do the same...saving the cap rails for last. My intention was to prep and paint the cap rails off the ship.  Once on, there would be some minor touch up work. 
 

Enjoy your Thanksgiving!!!

 

Patrick

[Justin P.]

On 11/23/2020 at 4:28 AM, Gahm said:

Beautiful paint job, Justin!

Thanks Thomas...   though I have to admit, I cant no longer look to your build log for inspiration without spending the rest of the evening wondering why I am even trying!   Your work is splendid.   I appreciate the time you took to respond to my query ahead of my painting step.  

[Justin P.]

On 11/23/2020 at 5:39 AM, Overworked724 said:

My intention was to prep and paint the cap rails off the ship

I too, am thinking this is how I might approach it.  Ive just had success fine tuning the odd fitment of previous builds by over building the cap rail and installing it, and then sanding back to an even consistency of reveal and shape.   Im trying to wrap my head around that now with so much work having gone into the finish of the interior and exterior bulkheads that Im afraid of having to do ANY sanding in the vicinity of that paint job!   Now having just seen your scuppers I'm starting to worry about having drilling once again on top of it all - ugh!

[Justin P.]

On 11/23/2020 at 1:46 AM, NovaStorm said:

enjoy upgrading the kitchen

Tough task - Ill try, ha. 

[Overworked724]

3 minutes ago, Justin P. said:

I too, am thinking this is how I might approach it.  Ive just had success fine tuning the odd fitment of previous builds by over building the cap rail and installing it, and then sanding back to an even consistency of reveal and shape.   Im trying to wrap my head around that now with so much work having gone into the finish of the interior and exterior bulkheads that Im afraid of having to do ANY sanding in the vicinity of that paint job!   Now having just seen your scuppers I'm starting to worry about having drilling once again on top of it all - ugh!

 

Ah!!!  I have a plan for my cap rail.  I'll share some pics on my build log tonight.  Thought occurred to me how to make the cap rail template for each side to accurately reflect the entire dimension without too much hassle.

 

With regards to the scuppers - don't sweat it.  I tried to go too complicated.  Simple is best.  You just don't need to puncture the hull...you can got part way through with a 1/16" drill bit and call it good.  😃  

[Justin P.]

Ugh...   having a bit of a crisis of commitment.  

 

I started building out the cap rails and am realizing I have overlooked the importance paying particular attention to the overall thickness of my bulwarks.  In order to achieve the desire slight overhand inboard and out, as well as fit a decorative molding Ive come out with a rail that is, to my eye, entirely too wide.   The instructions call for a finished cap rail that is no more than a 1/4" wide, which is exactly the width of my bulwarks at their narrowest....    Following the instructions, and accounting for as little additional width possible has left me with a cap rail that is just shy of 3/8"...    and while the finished product came out well Im now agonizing...    Do I step back far enough to fix this or plunge on hoping this one (really out of scale detail) doesn't ruin the look of the whole...

 

Thoughts?   See a unpainted but complete starboard rail.

 

 

[Overworked724]

I have the same 'minor' problem.  I blame it on fear of accidentally shredding my bulkhead walls during sanding...so mine are a touch wide as well.  I think your first cap looks stellar!

[BobG]

I'm finally caught up on your build, Justin, and she's looking fantastic. 

 

In regards to paint brands, I've been pleased with Vallejo Model Paints diluted for brushing on many thin coats. I also like the Vallejo Model Air Paints when using my airbrush. I haven't really tried any other brands though so I don't know how they compare to other brands.

[abelson]

I had a similar problem. My cap rail with the 1/16" strip along the outboard edge is 3/8" wide. In the scheme of things, the added width isn't noticeable, especially after it's painted black.

[Matt D]

On 11/28/2020 at 2:35 PM, Justin P. said:

Do I step back far enough to fix this or plunge on hoping this one (really out of scale detail) doesn't ruin the look of the whole...

That's a tough call.  On the Winchelsea, Chuck put a lot of emphasis on fairing the inner side of the bulkheads to ensure that the bulwarks are to scale.  If that's what you'd need to do here, then that's a lot of rework.  If it were me given the large number of Syren build logs, I'd look through a ton of them and see what they look like before the inner planking, at this point, and completed.  That might give you insight into what you'll end up with if you keep going versus what you'd end up with if you back up.  I know from experience that backing up stinks, but it has worked out for me in the end each time it happened.

Edited November 30, 2020 by Matt D

[Chuck]

I would redo it...but thats my preference.   A very out of scale cap rail is typical on most models and kits.   The importance of sanding down the bulwarks thin enough is crucial otherwise the model will look clunky and toy-like which unfortunately happens a lot.   At that width the cap rail would be 2 feet wide on the actual ship.   If you can try and picture that.  It will be tough to do at this point though.  You would only be able to sand the outer layers by abut 1/64" on each side.  The good thing however is that you will be adding the hammock cranes and these should obscure the width of the cap rail a bit....but not much.   For any model....its best to go thinner with the bulwarks than the other way around.  It makes for a much more elegant model in scale.  Maybe remove the outboard molding and sand the hell out of the bulwarks to taper them as much as possible to get it thinner along the shear.   Just a gradual tapering towards the sheer inside and out.

 

Chuck

[glbarlow]

On Cheerful I was surprised by how thin the cap rail was called for in the plans after having done lots of kits, and how way much better it looked when I completed it thin.  No offense, but it does appear to be a bit clunky, if you can thin it at this point I’d go for it.

[Justin P.]

I think good advice overall.   While Im tempted to leave it, the amount of work invested already has made me want to make it as good as I can and Im not generally one to settle on a big detail like this. I did go back and review a lot of builds to gauge the effect and I think @Chuck and @glbarlow are right about the end result.   I also can see how much of difference in overall scale look it can have when looking at the result @Gahm achieved in his build.  Its a big hiccup, but one that will hopefully cement the lesson learned...  also a lot of redo work...    Ugh,  Now Ive got to think about how to do this...    What Im thinking is Ill rip out all the interior planking rather than just sand it back, and sand the framing more back from the inside.   I should be able to do this with minimal damage to existing built up components - keyword here: "should."      

 

Thanks all for chiming in...   wish me luck. 

Edited November 30, 2020 by Justin P.

[glbarlow]

I carefully sanded my cap rail flush with the bulwarks after they were painted. They needed touching up afterward but it wasn’t as bad as I’d thought it would be. Then it was Tamiya tape to mask off rail and bulwarks alternately to paint one red and the other black. 
 

id recommend you try that before ripping off anything. 

Edited November 30, 2020 by glbarlow

[Justin P.]

10 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I carefully sanded my cap rail flush with the bulwarks after they were painted.

How did you account for the required overhang of the rail over the inner bulwarks?   Your idea is intriguing but would leave me with interior bulwarks that run right up to the rail with no obvious segway between components...  

 

EDIT:  I see in your build log that your rail runs flush with the inner bulwarks, perhaps I can sand it back beyond and add a thin piece in the same way the outer molding is installed...   Good idea.   I like this better than I do ripping it apart!

Edited November 30, 2020 by Justin P.