Emma C Berry by Turangi - Model Shipways - 1:32

[turangi]

Results of another experiment: I worked today on the rudder and my first order of business was attaching the lower strap. I again reduced the size of the nail heads but should have made them smaller as you will notice in the pictures of the upper straps which I like much better. I heated the nails red hot to anneal them and inserted them. Very easy to bend so I recommend holding them with pliers right above where they enter and gradually work them in until there is enough to grab on the opposite side and pull them through.

 

I mentioned in a previous post the difficulties in creating a head on the side opposite the normal head and thought about using a nail set as it has a small recess. I cut off the excess nail very short and used the nail set, it worked great and formed a very nice head! I did apply epoxy to the parts first. This was a Stanley nail set, they come in different sizes and this was the smallest I had on hand. It seems a very useful and inexpensive tool. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-58-230-Piece-Steel-Nail/dp/B000BQPGYI/ref=asc_df_B000BQPGYI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241955516116&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11923333881675367596&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021508&hvtargid=pla-383697233721&psc=1

Edited June 9, 2021 by turangi

[Sea Hoss]

Mr T, your rudder looks very nice! Your methods are also quite helpful. I wish now I took more care doing my rudder! But these models are after all a compilation of many parts and if we can get most of them right, we will have an attractive ship. I like your work.

[turangi]

Thank you all for your kind comments and responses! Sea Hoss, I agree that a model is the sum of its parts, I try to treat each step as a separate project and hopefully all will meld together in a good final project. I like your build and have pinched a few of your ideas. It is interesting to follow the logs of the same model and learn from each one.

 

A bit of a follow-up: I secured the top straps today using the method outlined above again using the nail set and it worked a treat. A few tips. Place the straps in position and insert the full size nails through the holes, I anneal the pins to about al dente so handle them with care while inserting, it is easiest to push them part way through and when a sufficient amount of the tip is protruding on the opposite side pull them through, less risk of deforming them. I then then hold the straps in place and apply masking tape around the perimeter them as I like to use a bit of epoxy in addition to the pin, the tape makes cleanup much easier. Once that is done I carefully lift one side and then the other of the strap high enough to apply the adhesive, I used an old scalpel. I then hold them in position, a self-closing tweezer works great, then cut off the excess pin and use the nail set to create the head with solid backing for the other side. I recommend cutting the pin quite short to prevent bending it instead of mushrooming it. I used 5 minute epoxy the first time and ended up with a mess trying to complete the task before it started setting up. I used 60 minute epoxy the last two times and it allowed enough time time for a less rushed and better job. I have struggled riveting four 4 years since I started modeling and finally think I have found a decent approach. If I live to 150 I may be able to solve some of my other challenges.😮     

[turangi]

I forged ahead at my usual breakneck speed😉. I fabricated and installed the fittings on the bow, quite straightforward with some file work and bending. I next turned my attention to marking, masking and painting the waterline area using hopefully fairly accurate measurements from the plans. I cobbled together a marking apparatus, then masked the area with 6mm Tamyia tape and dashed on some paint. I am satisfied with the result. I dragged my feet on doing this as it had disaster written all over it in my mind. Went well I think. One side down and hopefully the other tomorrow.

[turangi]

A bit of an update: I moved on to painting the accents on the hull below the scuppers and the edge of the cap rail. Liberal use of masking tape sure helped! After removing the tape I went back and touched up a few areas and finally decided enough is enough already. I have to shift my perspective from a microscopic view to a two foot view, looks good to me. The plans called for a cream color the same as the interior but I exercised artistic license and painted them white for a bit more contrast. I also stained the exposed hull frames a bit as they looked too pristine to me. 

 

 

I needed some eyebolts and after trying to close the gap and solder it on the kit supplied items made my own by twisting wire around an appropriate sized drill bit and like them much better, very easy to do.  

Edited June 19, 2021 by turangi

[Sea Hoss]

Looking like a well seasoned work boat! The twisted eyebolts stay in better too.

[niwotwill]

Sea Hoss is correct the twisted eyebolts stay in better but if glue is added they become almost impossible to take out. Make sure it is correctly positioned speaking from experience. Still like the antifouling paint that will lend itself to the diorama of being on the ways.

 

 

[turangi]

A bit more work, I decided it was time to start rigging the bowsprit. The directions called for sister hooks so after Googling them to see what they were I made up a couple and was fair happy how they turned out. I used a bit of wire and bent it into shape. Not sure they are to scale but will not let anyone near the model with a micrometer. I also served the line full length with a Rube Goldberg contraption I cobbled together and will post photos of that later.

[turangi]

As promised my cobbled together apparatus for creating fully served lines called for in the plans. My first lesson is that I need to clean my workspace, ignore the clutter. I first inserted a barbless fly hook in my rotary fly tying vice. I next spliced the line around the hook, much easier if you dip the end in thin CA glue to create a rigid portion to pass through the running line. After creating the splice I thread the serving material on a fine needle and pass it through the splice a couple of times to hold it together. 
 

Next I secure the other end to a swivel to allow the line to rotate. The serving thread is in my fly tying bobbin the whole time. I rotate the head of the vice while holding the tag end of the serving thread along the line several  turns to lock it tight and then apply a touch of CA to secure it. I then just continue to turn the line with the rotary vice using the bobbin to feed the serving thread. I also apply diluted PVA glue to the served area as I complete several  inches and then keep serving.
 

As I approach the required length I leave enough of the line to pass through the fitting on the bowsprit, disconnect the line from the apparatus, pass it through the fitting, make a splice and serve that area and finish with some half-hitches, a touch of CA and the diluted PVA. Rather like tying fishing flies.

 

My directions are probably as clear as mud but feel to post any questions or contact me. No patents pending so free feel to copy my cheapskate serving apparatus 😁

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 29, 2021 by turangi

[turangi]

Time for a bit of an update. I have been working on the various rigging points, lines etc.. Neither the mast or bowsprit are permanently attached yet but fitted for a trial run. I thought it best to complete as much of the rigging work as possible beforehand as it is easier off boat. I had read of the difficulty of serving  the chain going to the bowsprit and use of shrink tubing or other methods so I tried a different approach and applied 5 minute epoxy to the appropriate area of the chain to achieve a smooth surface, let it harden and then served it, worked to my satisfaction. The shrouds were a challenge as they called for serving full length, I gave it a go with little success so decided to just leave them bare which I am sure I will regret. The plans called for some small bullseyes for the bowsprit chain assembly and said to just drill out the center of a deadeye to create a single hole, no go. What I did was carve out the center between the hole with a scalpel to create a divot and then drilled them out, worked a champ. My next step will be to build a stable base for the model and proceed with the permanent rigging A few lousy pictures:

[turangi]

Warning! Do not use the pictures below as a guide for installing the parts shown at the main boom jaws! I misread the plans and the parts belong on the jaws of the upper boom!  I only leave them up as perhaps they will help another builder to check the plans twice and build only once. I have fixed the problem and the bottom photo shows what the main boom jaw area should look like.

 

Time for a long overdue update. With the decent weather I have been trying to catchup with outdoor chores. The weather turned rather too warm and humid for my taste so I did some work on the boom for the mainsail. There is a rather surprising amount of fabrication and installation of parts to be done on what would seem to be a rather simple affair. I won't bore you with details but will post some photos, still a fair amount of touch-up etc. to be done. If you have any questions feel free to post them or contact me.  

Edited August 22, 2021 by turangi

[turangi]

Another brief update. In my previous post I had a photo of the cheek blocks on the mainsail boom. The directions suggested a couple of holes could be drilled in them as a simulation. It didn’t look right so I made some proper blocks. I had some Aluminum tubing left over from another model so I glued a bit of Bamboo skewer in the center to allow it to be pinned in place. I used a wee file to make a groove around the outside, cut it in a miter box with a razor saw and pinned it in place. I am much happier with the result!

[turangi]

Certainly well past time for an update! I have been busy during the nice weather contemplating projects that needed done around the house. I managed to do a lot of of contemplation and possibly succeeded in accomplishing about 10% of them Perhaps a blessing or curse being retired and having no Admiral to motivate me. In addition, one of my joys in life was travel and I had not been away since March 7, 2020 when I escaped from Auckland via Sydney, San Francisco and Chicago, I was sure I was a dead man but did survive. So I recently threw caution to the winds and went over to Hawaii for a couple weeks before I went mad. My late wife and I went there often and I needed some salt water on my skin. I hope I am not violating any rules but want to post this song that always brings me joy reminding me of my wife after I travel to Hawaii. I always get a bit contemplative but comforted after a trip there after my wife had passed.

 

 Enough digressing, I spent a fair amount of time rigging as much as possible before I install the mast, boom etc.  as it seemed easier than doing it after installing the bits, really no photos were taken, perhaps after installation.

 

I installed the bowsprit and completed the gammons, a couple of photos. I simulated bolts with plastic rod I tried to make six sided. I installed the trim board after hand painting it. I actually did them in two parts, not sure that was the best option and  perhaps bending them to fit would have been better?

 

I next turned my attention to the boat name at the bow and and stern. I knew hand painting was not an option and I was not happy with the printed sheet provided with the kit. I bought some decal sheets for use in my inkjet printer and am fairly happy with the result. The bow was easy but stern not so much. I had neither the program or more probably the paucity of expertise to create the curved lettering for the stern so I pinched a photo from another member here (thank you Ahb26!) and used that to make the decal. It turned out that making and applying the decals was a fairly complicated process and rather than elaborate on the procedure if there is any interest I will expand on the details. 

 

Finally, I sealed the deck with a matte finish and any other raw wood also. 

Edited October 4, 2021 by turangi

[turangi]

Did a bit more work, I am trying to finish up all the bits that can be done before starting major rigging. More likely I am procrastinating starting that task as I think it will be a challenge. I tend to do this but once I start I thoroughly enjoy it.

 

I finished mounting the winch, mounted the horse at the stern, finished the cabin doors and installed fake fasteners in the simulated new planks in the open area of the hull. I thank Sea Hoss for his post about using brush bristles, worked a treat and my thinning hair shan't miss them!

Edited October 7, 2021 by turangi

[turangi]

A small update. I did some touch up painting on the hull and while waiting on that to dry made some small accessories. Any repair yard would need some saw horses, a saw and a square to work on the new planking. I cobbled them together from some scrap wood and used a bit of sheet brass to fashion the blades for the saw and square.

 

 

Edited October 8, 2021 by turangi

[gjdale]

Love the home-made tools! Great addition and well done.

[turangi]

Thanks all, it was an enjoyable little project.

[yvesvidal]

Very cute tools and sawhorses.

 

Yves

[Sea Hoss]

Looking great Mr T.

[turangi]

A bit of progress and a couple of questions. I started the rigging by reeving the dead eyes that secure the shrouds, I used a Manila colored line as I thought if they ever needed adjustment on an actual boat due to stretching or mast flexing if they were tarred it would make that task more difficult. I have seen it done with simulated black tarred line or natural colored line on various models and was not sure which would be correct? I do admit I rather like the contrast of the Manila with the black shroud.

 

I have temporarily secured the lanyards to the shrouds and may need to revise them some for a neater appearance before securing them with PVA. My question is this:  on an actual boat do you cut off the excess lanyard flush at the secured point or leave some excess for undoing the secured area and giving some extra purchase to readjust them?

 

I also mounted the starboard running light and mount but this was fairly straightforward.

Edited October 18, 2021 by turangi

[ahb26]

On 10/17/2021 at 8:18 PM, turangi said:

My question is this:  on an actual boat do you cut off the excess lanyard flush at the secured point or leave some excess for undoing the secured area and giving some extra purchase to readjust them?

I'm about to deal with these same issues.  The plans (sheet 4) say "Cow hitch [the lanyard] to shroud here [arrow to point below sheer bar] then seize to shroud below deadeye [i.e., to lanyard(s)]."  CraigB's ECB photos don't seem to show this (a bit hard to tell, but the end of the lanyard just seems to snake around one of the reeved portions down to the deck) and there are other aspects that disagree with the plans. You pays your money and you takes your choice, I guess!

[turangi]

Time for an update. I am considering the rigging  finished with a few adjustments needed. As ahb26 mentioned in his above post termination of the rigging was a head-scratcher so I just did what looked acceptable to me and am satisfied.

 

A few points: the original building jig with some minor modifications held the model fine while rigging, no special vice needed. The diameter and color of the lines didn’t always match the directions or plans so I winged it, standing rigging black and running Manila color. As to diameter, I choose what pleased me to my less than knowledgeable mind. As I have loss of feeling in some fingers and sometimes can’t feel the lines tweezers, hemostats, and homemade rigging tools were my friends as was salty language befitting a sailor.

 

My next endeavor is working on a proper base, at my breakneck speed I anticipate being finished by Christmas…..2022. I find the journey often as exciting as the destination. As always any comments, or more importantly, suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Edited November 11, 2021 by turangi

[mek]

Hi turangi,

By the way, I have also not executed the cordage with the supplied. but picked out the right one from my supplies. 
As a stand I built this simple construction with grooves for the keel bar. It holds very reliably, even with my fully rigged version.

[yvesvidal]

Beautiful model and very convincing rigging. Well done.

 

Yves

[jgilchrist800]

Copied all your pictures and texts. Great job! My next project...

[ahb26]

Beautiful job, very tidy work.  I am working my way through the final stages of rigging - the end really is in sight.  Kind of hard to believe.

[turangi]

A wee bit more progress. I made a work stage and some ladders. I used an acrylic wash and dry brush to age them , a first for me and am satisfied. My small dilemma is the timbers and supports for the hull were aged to resemble weathered grey wood. I am temped to dry brush them brown also. Any and all recommendations welcome. I need to decide before I start applying gravel to the base.

[niwotwill]

Love the work scaffolding and ladder. Amazing can't wait to see you next project.

 

Regards

Will

[turangi]

 

Another update. I was essentially done with hull construction to turned my attention to building a permanent base. I cut a piece of plywood, built the ways as stacked timbers I chemically aged to to look weathered, added two brass pins that insert into the hull and made some hull supports. I am very pleased as it seems very stable and strong.

 

Next I wanted to lay down a simulated gravel base and used model railroad ballast material. I made a small test area and found a few problems. I initially used a product called "Tacky Glue" spread on the wood base and found that any open area in the gravel showed as raw wood, the glue is so thick it was almost impossible to spread and it dried very glossy. So I painted the base grey, found a product called "Mod Podge" that is available in either glossy or matte when dry and very easy to spread. I spread an area, applied the gravel, let it sit a while and then tipped the board to dump any excess. If a bare spot was found I applied a bit more adhesive with a small brush and sprinkled a bit more gravel. Worked like a champ! Mod Podge also offers a spray bottle of the adhesive in matte or gloss so I applied a couple of coats to lock the gravel in place. I then drilled a few holes to insert simulated foliage made from Moss, very satisfied.

 

Now the bad news. I intended to build a case to closely fit around the base and while taking the included pictures noticed the boom extends beyond the base! Didn't see the forest for the trees☹️. So some base extension work is in my future.

 

Edited December 2, 2021 by turangi

[turangi]

Pictures, for some reason they wouldn't load into the previous post.

Edited December 2, 2021 by turangi