Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

On 5/27/2021 at 11:04 PM, stuglo said:

Strakes #12 and #13

#13 - 2.12mmX6.9mm, abutting #14.

From #Kaft to notch, narrows to 2.65mm

Aft narrows to 4.5mm.

MISTAKE is now glaring. After much mental indigestion, resolve to UNdo and REdo.

Crowding aft will not allow ceiling planks without excessive narrowing to points.More importantly, the choice for the run of the desk clamp was wrong.This time, using the upper desk clamp as source, made the aft (unmarked on plan)section, parallel to this. The upper edge of #15 now to run to upper edge of #4 transom.

The gap between #8 and #13 is still too narrow, (probably because of insufficient narrowing of #6 and #7)but will use stealers/dropped planks rather than remake these.

 

On the advice from “druxey” , I realise I chose wrongly, and decided to remake the aft sections of the lower deck clamp and neighbouring strikes #12 to -#15. So that the aft ends fall opposite the 3rd and 4th transoms.

[druxey]

Good save there, Stuglo! 

[stuglo]

On 5/10/2021 at 5:14 PM, stuglo said:

****The problem of thick wood and bending sideways.****

Over relatively short sections, this isn’t easy. Soaking, heat doesn’t always avoid kinking and splitting and the compound curve adds complication. ?Each piece would require its own jig or better still cut the piece as a curve - a sort of spilling.

I am trying POPLAR as it is relatively soft.

One way is to let a wetted plank dry in situ while being held in place various clamps.( Because of the position and narrow gaps between frames, these will have to be made and sourcing the hardware will be difficult and course delays.)

When dry, it can be glued and re-clamped.

I’m trying something else.

The piece, with PVA glue, is nailed in position on each frame with some side clamping. Working quickly with drill and forceps from one end, it is forced to the required curve.The argument against is that it sets up large forces in the wood and the sharpness of the curve is a limiting factor.

However, I applied its opposite number straight away, and, after leaving the glue to set for a couple of hours, with the pins in place,judiciously wet the wood (but not soaked as usually done before shaping)and left overnight to dry.

The result is fair, needs some remedial work, but is a possible solution for someone lazy/impatient like myself.

 

I invite comments.

When removing the pins, kept skinning my knuckles on the sharp timbertops, thus the protection of gym glove!!

 

On the advice from “druxey” , I realise I chose wrongly, and decided to remake the aft sections of the lower deck clamp and neighbouring strikes #12 to -#15. So that the aft ends fall opposite the 3rd and 4th transoms.

[stuglo]

Footwaling-strakes #3-5

These are the filling planks between the limber strakes and the thickstuff.

Thickness 1.06 mm.Joints at positions shown on the planking expansion and maintaining pattern of previous strakes.

The max. combined width is 17mm (my model) spread over the 3 planks This varies along length and strakes are narrowed proportionately.

 

Footwaling -strakes #9-11

As above, filling between thickstuffs of floorhead and first futtock head.

[stuglo]

Main Mast Step.

 

Although mid chapter, significant change in building direction necessitates a clean up of the work table!!

It is positioned in the “well” between pumps between stations #3 and #4.

Shap given in TFFM- photocopies made for sticking either side of blank to aid shaping.

The blank is 11.6x10.6x33.39mm 

The base is shaped/angled to sit on the limber strakes and allowance made for the thicker strakes.

A card blank is used for shaping by “hit and miss” and this is superimposed on the printed pattern.

These are stuck for and aft of the blank and rough approximation made with milling, file and rasp. The keelson is rising and this is reflected in the change in shape for and aft. I had to deepen the mortise where it sits on the keelson and the overall result was pretty good for a 1st attempt. Then I realised I had no need to deepen this because a gap is deliberately left for the limber passage.

New blank and remake.

The mortise opening for the mast is 5.3mm square and 3.7mm deep. Milled out and squared off with a chisel. The drawing shows a narrowing towards the bottom of the mortise, but mine is approximate at best.

I shaped the upper surfaces of the “wings” to follow the shape of the other mast steps.

All upper and side edges are chamfered.

This step itself is not fixed by bolts but is moveable fore and aft by means of pairs of wedges held against a large bolt extending upwards to approx. height of center of mast, (10-11mm)

I made the wedges by cutting the end of a 9x9mm stick at an angle of 75 deg on table saw.

This gave a combined width of 3.5mm and I set the 0.9mm wire I used into the keelson to hold them.

 I then glued the steps and wedges to the keelson.

 

[stuglo]

The Foremast Step

Unlike mainmaststep, this is wing-shaped. A large hook or crutch.

Importance of location-  (also using 2nd port to help)sits on keelson #7 and #8 cants.

50.88 mm across and 10mm thick.

Using blank 60x25x10mm, usual pattern either side, angles require a little adaption but with mortises for ridges in hull planking.

Drilling on press and black treenails inserted before gluing in place.

 

The Mizen Mast Step

Similar but smaller than the foremast step

Width 35, thickness 6.36mm

Position -fore-edge on #15 aft

[captain_hook]

You‘re making great progress, very nice build. The Swan-Class is a favorite of mine, hope you don‘t mind if I follow along your build.

[stuglo]

On 6/25/2021 at 5:33 PM, captain_hook said:

You‘re making great progress, very nice build. The Swan-Class is a favorite of mine, hope you don‘t mind if I follow along your build.

I'm honoured

[stuglo]

The Limber Boards

Covers over the space between the keelson and groove of limber strake .Extending fore and aft for extent of limber strake groove.

(used some pear which I obtained as branches for kindling-varied colour of the grain ? problematic)

Varied lengths 30mm+/-, and varied widths due to the curve of the strake. Thickness 1.33mm

Note position of wells- no boards.

Similarly beneath the shot locker ?closed, and left out for present.

Also note places of partitions on profile plan- a 1mm space between boards is left for these.

The choice is given for holes (shared) at either end or near the end of each board.(I chose the later-easier)

The long edges are chamfered so as to lie on the grove below, and meet the chamfer of the keelson above.

[stuglo]

Crutch Aft of the Mizzen Mast

Sloping forward on #18 at right angle to the keelson- about 15deg to perp.

Using a 4.5mm blank.

I thinned down the “thick stuff” to match neighbouring strakes to avoid need of mortises.

Also cleared area either side of keelson to allow room for the “feet”.

First a card pattern - some variance with pattern in book.

Drilled out pre-marked line for treenails and fitted.

On review, line not straight !!!- the vice, must have slipped and no longer parallel to base

REDO piece.

 

[stuglo]

Breast Hooks

Similar to aft crutch, but in the bow, on the stemson.

Previously scores cut at positions taken from the sheer plan - similarly the angle at which they sit can be copied.The mortise angled slightly to allow this.

Blanks of 4.77mm.

Lower (aftmost) Breast Hook

-some adaptation of the pattern in TFFM

Opening space either side of the keelson to allow thicker “feet”

Bolts - one central , others over each strake .

Chamfer edges

Upper Breast hook

Slightly smaller. And ensure the upper arms end can  clear the lower deck beams.

[druxey]

Small point: there was usually one bolt through each frame timber rather than each strake of planking. However, you've fitted the hooks very nicely.

[stuglo]

2 hours ago, druxey said:

Small point: there was usually one bolt through each frame timber rather than each strake of planking. However, you've fitted the hooks very nicely.

Your interest and oversight is much appreciated.

[stuglo]

SLEEPERS

These are a pair of “unfolded” knees, either side horizontally  across transoms and aftermost cants, roughly in line with strakes.

No pattern given, simply trial and error.

Size given as between 64-76mm, of which about ⅗ across the cants. Thickness 4mm, step at end of strake.

Chamfered and treenailed.- Not totally satisfied with my effort-may redo later 

 

[stuglo]

THE WING KNEES

They connect the wing transom to the side of the hull. The aftermost beams of the deck mortised into the “arms”.

The basic thickness is 3.71mm, the arm against the wing transom is 31.8mm long-upper surface continuous with upper surface of transom.

The side arm is 44.5mm long and rests on the clamp.This arm is “let down” by 0.53 on the clamp, but I decided instead to use a thinner blank of 3.18.

(As I understand it, although this arm rests on the clamp, it acts like a clamp but the beams are level into the mortise rather than proud and therefore forms aft base of deck- I await to be enlightened)

By following the surface of the transom, it cants upwards slightly.

The surfaces to be fixed need some shaping, especially at the corners.

Chamfering lower edge only, 10 bolts + pair at either end

[stuglo]

Chapter 5, TFFM

 50 weeks into this build and what a learning experience (most of which I have forgotten).

 

Description of filling the main hold with ballast and barrels. This will not be seen and I did this with my previous model (Victory Bow) and at this stage I do not find it very exciting and I will skip this and proceed to the --

 

Aft Platform.

This is the aft part of what could be considered the lowest deck. The middle 3rd was not built.

Referring to the Atalanta sheer plan, 3 support beams running across the keelson are located.

The advice is to mark their heights directly onto the strakes-I found this difficult as I’d oiled the wood in this area added to an acute angle. I therefore made a pattern of the area between keelson and platform, having checked that the keelson height was accurate.Gluing this to a blank, gave me the line I wanted and the support for the template I needed to make for the platform.

The beams are 3.45mm wide and 2.65mm deep.The upper surface is cut at 3.5deg with a tilt    table saw (1st time I have used it so), to allow for upward slope aftwards.

The foremost beam is located above the gap left in the limber boards so the bulkhead is affixed to its aft side.

The pattern of the platform didn’t fit so well, particularly aft ⅓.

This widening of the “tail” needed some adaption of the lodging knees and rear end redesigned.

These knees are from 2.65mm blanks. (I have difficulty with accurately cutting small pieces with the scroll saw- no matter how I try to hold them,they jump and often break.I use the band saw for rough outline the the CORNERS of the band sander.)

The carlings -longitudinal beams, 2.12mm wide /1.6 mm deep

The ledges-cross sub beams, 1.6mm wide/1 mm deep.

Located and started mortise with a 2mm milling bit, recess squared off with 2mm chisel blade.

The ledge/carling mortise defeated me. Maybe too tired and in a hurry to make progress ?

Anyway, I  joined both pair of mortises into a groove and ran the ledge continuously over this. 

I”ll add a false “seperating” line later.

** I used pva glue except for aft piece, where I used epoxy. The result is a bit fragile and should have used epoxy for all the major joints.**

The edges of the platform need shaping -sharp angle- where the meet the strakes.

This part is put to side -NOT FIXED- until several more stages are built/

 

[stuglo]

LOWER DECK BEAMS

 

(To be fixed temporarily to enable building and positioning of support posts)

 Size 4.24mm wide and 3.18mm deep.-with round up (curve) of 1.6mm

Plans have patterns for these.

TFFM suggests blanks of 4.24mmx4.77mm -total length about 330mm (19 pieces +spare)

My usual method, cutting out a printed copy and sticking them to the blank was difficult due to distortion of a long narrow piece of paper.

Tried a wider paper and used spiral sander to shape-too much inaccuracy and variation.

(1st batch of 20 wasted)

Next I tried a block 5cm -much easier to control and more accurately the upper(convex) side, the lower side more difficult to hold the thinned block at 90deg to the table.

After the first failure, I made it thicker and better controlled with a pattern on either side.

This was then ripped in table saw to the required width (4.24mm).Some further waste as the curved block was difficult to control 100%

The resulting pieces were then reduced to the 3.18 depth by several passes between the controlling block and the milling bit.

Next time I will try forming only the convex surface before “slicing” and the form the concave surface with the mill.

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Beams (cont.)

 

Their positions do not match exactly the stations on the plan and must be taken from the NMM plans.

After measuring and comparison to the framing plan, these can be marked. After several hours, I checked out Kevin’s video blog, and saw a central strake,marked directly from the NMM plan, and overlying the beams, allowing a more accurate positioning.

Recommended to start with beams #11 and #12( overling the well)

A simple measuring device is described in TFFM which I have simplified further ( fabric wire rapper and stick broken in half)

Remembering  the “let down”- I milled 0.53mm notches either end of the beam once it had been cut to size and fixed (temporarily) with rubber cement.

Height then checked with the depth gauge.

Beams fore of the similarly made, with attention to shaping ends to match the curve of the clamp.

The beams aft of #13 supposedly to rather than on the clamp (like platform beams) but #14 and #15 managed with a deeper notch.

[druxey]

Coming along nicely!

[stuglo]

SUPPORT PILLARS for Lower deck beams

Details from TFFM and profile plan Atalanta

Most centred under beam and note relationship to structures of platforms and bulwarks. The position of a few beams slightly altered.

Also allowance for slope of keelson upon which the pillars stand.

 

**One of the advantages in writing this blog is that although the rough copy is produced while working on the model, this published version is after completing each stage. Therefore, although I note that the pillars are generally 3.2mm square, nos. 11 and 12 are 2.65mm sq. THIS I FORGOT. So removal and alteration required.**

 

Tenons are mentioned at bases, treenails given as an alternative. I used brass pins , removing the head, and CA glue.

Using a small version of the measuring device, heights measured, appropriate shapins of base into which the pin inserted into a predrilled hole.

The corners, except those abutting bulworks, are chamfered from 4.24mm above base to 3.20mm below beam. A simple jig helped this.

The 5 pillars fore and 5aft have a tapered chamfer.

Pillars 19+20 are extra long and will be left ‘til later.

Note also that no pillars are shown beneath beams #1 and #5

[stuglo]

Fishroom Bulkhead

Fits under forebeam of aft platform, HORIZONTAL planks 1mmX4.77wide.

Made a paper plan, simply by trial and error ie. snip and fit. (my pin shape is too wide)

The bulkhead is braced by a pair of stanchions 2.12 mm sq. 

To be fitted after the platform is finished and in place

 

Aft Platform Planking.

TFFM calls for planks 0.8mm thick and 6.36 wide. I have some walnut left over from kit at 5mm wide, so I decided to go with this.Hope this is not too unorthodox.

The planking leaves a scuttle edge free at 1mm to allow for a rebated hatch.

It also falls short on the fore beam to allow a lip-shaped lip extending over the beam for most of its length. This edge is rounded.

I marked and cut out holes for the pillars.

A half (port) lid was made with similar planking.A hole is also required in this for a pillar.

Hinges also left over from another kit.

Decided against fastenings (this time not treenails) as probably almost invisible.

Fitted, glued and bulkhead added when set,

Finished with tung oil.

  

[Trussben]

Nice progress.

[stuglo]

THE WELL and SHOT LOCKERS.

These are compartments in the hold.

Dimensions given are 35mm sq for the former, and the latter, same width and 11.13mm long.

The rear bulkhead sits under the aft aspect of beam#12 . The height is that of the underside or the lower deck beam.

The fore bulkhead of the locker is 24mm, the sides continuous with the well, slope down from the bulkhead shared with the well.

At the bulkhead corners are stanchions, 3.18mm sq. The pillars #11 and #12 between them on their respective bulkheads. Foremost, are stanchions at the corners of the locker that have a 45deg bevel.

Additionally there is a similarly sized cross beam marking the height of the locker.

**I think the main problem is deciding the order of build. **

As the pillars already in place determine the position and dimensions, I decided to build the bulkheads first. Also the bulkhead can be easily held in position while measuring and making the walls.

Therefore paper templates made, overlaid with the planks (I again used some ready made if undersized wood-only 4.55x1mm)

Stanchions glued to aft side and temporarily clamped to pillar #12.

(Gratifying to see bulkhead match the gap in the limber boards)

The middle bulkhead was similarly made, but as the horizontal beam needed mortising into all 3 stanchions i.e.including the pillar#11, I freed up the latter from its holding pin in the keelson, and milled the required motises.

This proved very useful, as I could now replace and firmly fit the parts as the build required.

With these bulkheads implace, I planked the sides with forward extensions for the locker.

When dried, removed as whole, heights of sides corrected, and using the cross beam as a guide, shaped the locker side and fore bulkhead.

Inside the locker is a dividing wall, running starboard side of pillar#11 and the fore bulkhead, where a suitably short stanchion adds support.

A pair of lids fit either side of a piece of planking which covers the aforementioned locker partition. Similar planks cover the tops of the walls, rather like bannisters.

A very satisfying build, particularly the order saved a lot of fiddling about. Choice of wood for planks was probably a mistake, but will be mostly hidden from view.

 

[druxey]

Looks good to me - what mistake in wood choice?

[stuglo]

I think its tanganyka, planks from a kit at least 20 years old. It "mottling" remains after sanding and oiling- not present when originally used. Maybe the weathered look will grow on me. I wanted a contrast-to be seen in unlit hold. I suppose walls and bulkheads were painted whitish so as to be seeb in the gloom of below decks.

[stuglo]

FORE PLATFORMS

Built in 4 sections.

Referring to the Atalanta profile plan, some variance to TFFM.The bulkheads seem to ve (vertically)continuous and limit the planking.

Somehow, more confusing than their aft counterparts- the importance of previously fitting the lower deck pillars (as suggested by FTTM) becomes obvious.

The aftmost (4th) and 2nd platforms sit about 6.36mm higher than the 3rd.

Locating the aftmost beam 28.5mm aft of 4th pillar (allowing 1mm bulkhead). This aftermost beam mortises into the Bitt uprights.

The cross beams are 3.64x2.65, carlings and ledges also as before(3.16x1.6,1.6x1.0)

As usual, paper copy with mirror image, glue to blank, cut out and shape.

Recessed for pillars 4+5

The higher parts are angled slightly upwards going foreward.

The lowest section appears horizontal about 2.5mm above keelson.

The 2nd section is a narrow part, slightly wider than its beam. The profile plan shows some connection with the first part, but I can't see how with the height of the foremast step.

The foremost section is the same height as the 2nd,it extends under the breast hook.

PLANKING

Extends aft of 4th, to include the Bitt upright and abutts to bulkhead. 

Sited as such, the gap in the limberboards is incorrect and needs moving forward by 5mm. (PVA dissolved and boards recut and moved). As TFFM says, go with the plan you have!!

 

[stuglo]

Decision: Despite not visible, will attempt the various rooms and structures in the hold.

 

Magazine and Filling room.

A series of bulkheads, passages and doors form this and other rooms.

I have no separate plan for this so will go with the patterns in TFFM. Also Dan Vardas’  blog considerably helps understanding.

The stanchions are 2.12mm square. ( The bulkhead planks join to hold ceilings via battens 2.12x1.06mm-which I have omitted. )

Starting with the aftermost bulkhead.

It sits under #19 lower deck beam. The beam pillar, unlike those foreward, extends to support the upper deck beam. The lower deck beam is slightly mortised into this.

The bulkhead does not extend all across to port side, rathervis “squared off”

A pattern is made for the lower edge (trial and error) and the horizontal planks glued to this and the shaped, ensuring the upper edge fits under the beam.

This is glued to the fore side of the pillar #19. They can be removed together as the pillar is attached by a brass pin into the keelson.

The stanchions are added per plan.

The walls are extra thick, as the spaces between the stanchions are filled by mortar.

I represented this by some vertical lime strips 1.38mm thick.

( I decided before the build that I did not want to use paint if possible)

The bulwark can be fitted by positioning the pillar on the pin.

 

Mizzen mast Sleeve

Tried by “prefabing” walls. Plan does not show an aft wall, but I put one in for stability. Corners chamfered.

[stuglo]

Magazine - fore bulkhead.

(Somewhat complicated. Difficulty in understanding plan/plans as only part is shown on each. This is probably my deficiency, but again I used Vardas’s blogg for a clear picture.)

This bulkhead is “anchored” to pillar #16 and due to its several components, separated the work into starboard and port sides.

The starboard side is only partially “filled” with simulated mortar.

The port side is very interesting. It includes a thick door (opening inwards) with a 3.7mm sill, a V-shaped window projecting into the magazine from the LIGHT room, and a horizontal door opening into the neighbouring bread room.

This part of the bulkhead is made just with the planks and stanchions as shown.

Leaving the sill, a doorway is made for entry to the magazine.The door, thickened, is hinged to the #16 pillar and the other doorpost is a stanchion.I think the sill would also be thick.

Suggestion how to make a window in a TFFM appendix. The windows are only 11x6mm so I tried at first with some copper scraps. Not successful. (Little pieces and fat fingers!)

Next some 1mm square boxwood-pva didn't “grab”

Similar wood, now filled with a drop of epoxy and when dry, milled groove and fitted horizontal munion. Fair result.

A V Shaped base was made and the windows glued to this with a batten covering the vertical join. A similar “roof” attached. Below the base is a 1mm wide wooden bracket.

A corresponding gap, 5mm wide, is made in the bulkhead.

A further hole is cut to fit a “horizontal” door to the bread room.

Copper hinges and handle left as this was used in reality.

The window is attached and a corresponding shelf forward into the passage (not yet built).

The bread room door has a Z-shaped frame and is fitted to open forward.

The thick magazine door is fitted and the port side bulkhead assembly attached so that the sill abutts to the #16 pillar , continuing the line of the starboard side.

The portside magazine wall needs adjusting and perhaps would have better be made now rather than earlier. Some additions (cheating) to its base is necessary, as when realigned to its proper place on the bulkhead, its height needs increasing.

A complicated and fiddly build, but ultimately satisfying and worthwhile even though it will be hidden.

[stuglo]

Passageway To Magazine Door 

Plank walls with stanchions. (no thick walls) Forms a dog leg.

Height determined by underside of beam, and width according to plan in TFFM.

Door sill again 3.71mm and I made a Zframe for a thicker door .

Door and Light Room.

Not all walls are parallel.I fitted doorways with lintels when not directly under beams.

The shelf in light room needed removing to alter shape slightly to fit the angle of the wall.

Door: narrow  with vertical planking 

Stewards Room: foreward to bedroom on port side.

Ensure height suitable for #15 beam (19.5mm at center)

The Steward room door is relatively wide (15mm) and is split horizontally. It has 2 sets of L-shaped hinges.

Forward of this is a narrow slops room with a simple door.

These doors, we are told, can be made with a barred opening or simple holes. The former is too much at this scale and with cause me excessive frustration for what will be a hidden piece

The Starboard rooms (Marines and Captains storerooms) apparently mirror the Steward’s and Slops rooms of the port side. These will be omitted.

[druxey]

Coming along well, Stuglo! Those 'hidden' details are intriguing to make and install. They certainly give one a good idea of how crowded everything was in these small ships.