Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats

[rfolsom]

Ha, ha;  Nenad;  You're right!  I've been in denial all this time...

 

Repairs have begun:

 

Tapered piece is shaped to overlap the dipping rail section:

[rfolsom]

Two davit holes, one deadeye hole, and three belaying holes will have to be re-drilled in this 13 cm long area;  I pre-drilled the davit holes to help in aligning the repair piece.  Here is the offending section drying:

[rfolsom]

This rail section will be quite thick, but hopefully will not be too noticeable after shaping and staining.  Should look much better than trying to dip everything else to follow the erroneous curve.

 

The drill bit is in a davit hole for alignment purposes.

[shihawk]

Nice fix ,should work well . It,s strange how sometimes looking from a different angle or especially looking at your own pics can show up things previously missed ,but anything can be fixed if you take the time ,

[rfolsom]

I think the repair should work reasonably well.  I shaped the shim, feathered the ends, and drilled the remaining holes.  I was afraid the thicker rail would screw up the belaying pin seating, but test fits look ok.  The picture of the feathering at the fore of the repair shows how the thin glue layer is lifting up after the sanding;  the stain will probably not take in this thin area, but after all this it's something I can live with....

[rfolsom]

Next up;  sanding and staining....

[rfolsom]

Main rail on the starboard side is stained;  hard to tell with the masking tape "drop cloths".

 

Still hope to get everything stained, and the white panes white, before installing the augmentation strips.

 

~Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[NenadM]

Without macro photos, we can not express small details we want to describe. But macro photos are our enemy because brightly show us details we must/don't see/want to correct after taking picture.

 

Keep on good work, my friend, I'm watching carefully, learning and thinking about new torture for you and me

Edited July 17, 2014 by Nenad M

[rfolsom]

Soon it will be time to "mass produce" deadeyes;  Over seventy of these assemblies.  I am not sure if I should paint them black (as the older photos show) or leave them natural (per the current restoration).

 

Any thoughts, CS Fleet?

 

~Bob

[rfolsom]

.....

[NenadM]

You are following C-plans, it means some significant time distance, so my vote for black. But, color of ropes go throught. White for contrast?

Edited July 17, 2014 by Nenad M

[clearway]

painted the deadeyes on mine black and used dark thread as well- nice work with the pin rails.

Keith

[rfolsom]

Thanks for the input;  black deadeyes it shall  be....

[NenadM]

Darkside (make) or brightside (bye)?

[popeye the sailor]

the repair looks very good.......hardly notice it at all! isn't it cool when you can do a major reno, with minimum effort

[rfolsom]

Nenad;  When I first bought this kit off of ebay, as no fittings were included, I ordered a bunch of deadeyes, blocks, and belaying pins from Model Expo.  The two sizes of deadeyes should be sufficient.  (I may need more).  It's just going to take a lot of time stropping, painting, and adding the white strips to these things...

[rfolsom]

Ok, so back to the white paneling strips...

 

Even though I started these things almost 8 months ago, I am still working on them.  I have four strips: The two aft, with 23 panels apiece, and the two forward with fifteen panels apiece.  There are two "interface panels" (one on each side) to bring the total panel count up to 78.  I have been dissatisfied with most of the initial oval cutouts, so my method has been to randomly take a strip (calmly, at a relaxing point in the evening) and a small flat file and needle file, and start at one end, shaping each oval in turn.  These are somewhat small, so by the time I get to the end of one strip, I'm not seeing as straight as I should...

 

I will then put everything away, and the next night repeat the process.  This is about the fifth night,  and the strips are looking better.  (there will still need to be panels cut out and remade, but my process seems to make things better with each pass).

 

You can see the pencil pointing out some shaping that needs done on this particular panel, and how the ovals vary;  I am attempting to minimize the variance by making multiple passes on each strip.  The vertical uprights, which pop off constantly during shaping, will be final sanded flush before affixing the strips to the inside of the bulwarks.

[rfolsom]

The inside bulwarks are marked and painted white in the areas where the ovals will be after the affixation of the paneling strips,  the pre-stained main rails masked off, and the paneling strips simultaneously fine-tuned.

[rfolsom]

...and more fun.. I am not sure how to strop my 2mm deadeyes; (representing 6 to 7 inch in the real world;  but I'm trying to strop the larger ones...)  The rice grains are:  Jasmine on the left;  Basmati on the right...

[dgbot]

What I did on my Latham for the lower deadeyes which are pretty much the same size was use 1/32X1/64 brass from K&S.  After running the strip through some 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper to clean it and make it a little thinner I annealed it.  As for the deadeyes I used a third hand in a vice to hold it then proceeded to wrap the brass around it.  I then soldered together and flattened the ends.  After a few tries a lot of bad word I was able to do a decent job.  Since most of the actual bracket will be hidden I think this will work out for you.

David B

[rfolsom]

Thanks,David, for the input;  right now, I don't have the means to augment my soldering equipment;  so here I sit....  Thank you for your input, though..

 

~Bob.

[clearway]

stropping deadeyes is fun ya!  You were mentioning deck fittings and this is the sergal deck winch i mentioned a while back- the warping drums are billings made though.

Sorry its a bit blurred.

Keith

 

[rfolsom]

Thanks for looking in again and the kind words, Brian;  Keith;  Nice build...  I'm a ways away from the winches and pumps, but still I ponder them from time to time (How could these be scratch-built?  Do I buy them?  If so, what's the best value and most accurate?) 

 

I believe when I acquire adequate soldering equipment, and practice enough to get some sort of technique down, I'll make the decision to scratch or purchase...

[lb0190]

Hi Bob,

 

I just read your CS log. It looks like a great build with excellent results.

[rfolsom]

Thanks, Larry;  Good to see your excellent posts again;  I guess this is why I jump around between these builds....

 

Seems like my good friend Nenad is always there, right, Nenad?

 

Cheers to Everyone .

 

~Bob

Edited July 22, 2014 by rfolsom

[NenadM]

Yes, yes, yes, here am I

 

Considering I moved my office to home, when I wrote something, Google Chrome on my PC is always present, and it is very easy (and hard to resist) to jump to MSW every time bumped on my mind ... addiction disease to MSW     

 

I can not help myself ...

Edited July 22, 2014 by Nenad M

[dgbot]

This is a serious addiction.  However the only thing you can do succomb to it and go with the flow.

David B

[NenadM]

But it seems I am not alone ....       

[rfolsom]

Definitely not alone Nenad...

 

More tangents;  The topgallent rail around the curve of the stern, will have to be fabricated;  In my build, this rail is 1/16" thick.  I am experimenting with 1/32" basswood sheets, laminated together to create a cross-grained effect;  otherwise the piece would just fall apart...

[rfolsom]

Bottom piece with outline of rail;  grain flows horizontally...