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Posted

Sam:

Thanks. I was careful to get a good centerline marked on the false deck and the first plank was laid right up against that line. It worked out well so far. :)

 

Russ

Posted

Russ nice work on the deck planks. I do have a question and it relates to the short beam that is shown affixed to the stanchions near the bow. I notice that there is not a lot of room to tie off under the cleat and I came upon the same situation on my own build ,I was wondering if there is some rule of thumb with regard to the clearances in these areas, especially on boats with low gunwales?

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

Posted

Michael:

Thanks for the kind words.

 

The cleats were probably not governed by any rule except what the locals had found to work over time. These kinds of cleats were found on many local boats, even today. There is usually an inch or two clearance top and bottom, but I have seen it left pretty tight. There is enough room to wrap a line around the cleat above and below. The range of rigging line diameters on these schooners went from 3/8"-1'2" to maybe 5/8"-3/4" diameter. This cleat was probably used for the jib sheets and maybe halyards as well, depending on what other belaying points were available.

 

By the by, I could have simply used a metal bar through a stanchion, fore and aft, as a cleat. I have seen plenty of examples of that as well.

 

In my local research, I have that such details are usually best taken from contemporary photos. There are no local plans that show these small details, and there is just not enough contemporary oral history to use for guidance on this sort of thing.

 

Russ

Posted

Thanks for the explanation Russ

 

 

By the by, I could have simply used a metal bar through a stanchion, fore and aft, as a cleat. I have seen plenty of examples of that as well.

 

This would in effect be like a horizontal belaying pin, wouldn't it.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Russ.  I'm interested in your modified close pin clamps. 

Are they made by simply gluing a square piece of wood to one side of the pin?  I assume you can then push up as well as in.

Thanks.

Ken

 

NO PIRACY 4 ME! (SUPPORTING CHUCKS' IDEA)

 

Current Build:  

Washington 1776 Galley

Completed Builds:

Pilot Boat Mary  (from Completed Gallery) (from MSW Build)

Continental Boat Providence   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Continental Ship Independence  (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Rattlesnake   (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build)

Armed Virginia Sloop  (from Completed Gallery)

Fair American (from Completed Gallery)  (from MSW Build Log)

 

MemberShip Model Society of New Jersey

                  Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Ken:

Yes, the block is just glued to the cothes pin. That worked fairly well, but not as good as some other home made clamps I have used.

Honestly, the best clamps I used on this model were the metal paper clips.

 

I was fortunate that I usually only needed a few seconds of finger pressure to set the planks. The clamps were a luxury rather than a necessity. Part of that is due to the small planks, wet bending, and the carpenter's glue, but there is also the hull form to consider. No really sharp bends etc with which to contend. :)

 

Russ

Posted

Lovely stuff, Russ. The planking is looking great!

One question regarding the butted planking. Was there a standard length of plank used by the builders throughout the decking? If not what is the rule you are using for the model, please?

Dave

Posted

Dave:

Thanks for the kind words.

 

As for deck planking, a general rule of thumb would be 15-20 ft with some fudge factor on either side of those numbers. I have mapped out where deck beams would fall and the deck planking arrnaged so that the butts fall on deck beams.

 

Russ

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

looking very nice Russ........the starboard side is done {white}.   so you'll be painting the port side the same?  sweet!    decking looks great so far........will look nice when done  ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

Pat:

Thanks. It was nice to get a few minutes in the shop. Hopefully I will get a bit more later today.

 

John:

Thanks for looking in.

 

Russ

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