HM Cutter Alert by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale - by Glenn Shelton

[Glenn-UK]

As I am making good progress I will continue with the daily updates for the time being.

 

I started with adding the eyebolts and eyebolts with rings to the deck. This was a simple task as the deck is predrilled. I did end up running a 0.9mm micro drill bit through these holes as I did find the holes a tad tight initially.

 

Before fitting the central stern eyebolt I had noted that it has a 3mm single block fitted. In my experience I have found it better to add these blocks to the eyebolt prior to fitting to the deck.

 

 

I essentially used the same method as DELF (Derek) used on his Speedy, hyperlink to this post is DELF Block Rigging. I started by making the becket. I simply used a 1mm diameter shaft and wrapped the thread around it and tied it off with a reef knot. I added a seizing over the knot to make it look neater and for added support. For the seizing I used a fine fly tying thread, 18/0 black Semerfli.

 

This is a picture of the completed becket

 

The becket was then added to the 3mm single block and seized. I used fly tying thread for the seizing (18/0 black Semerfli). I then added the eyebolt to the 3mm block using the method outlined by DELF.

 

In the photo below the eyebolt with the 3mm block has been added to the deck along with the two cleats. I need to repeat this process for an eyebolt located at the bow 

 

Next I added some pins to the channels.

 

It was an easy job to mark the position of the pins on the hull and I was pleased that the after drilling the hull the channel pins aligned perfectly with the drilled holes.

 

Moving quickly on I added the side steps and anchor chock. The bottom side step and anchor chock were painted black.

 

Side Steps

 

Anchor Chock

 

One of the jobs I don't like doing is drilling the bulwarks for the cannon eyebolts and rings. I really appreciated Chris's design on the Duchess of Kingston with the pre drilled holes on the inner bulwarks for these rings. I decided the best way forward for the Cutter Alert would be to make a jig. Starting with one of the support blocks I used for positioning the cannon ball racks I added a gun port location plate. Then added two vertical slates which were pre drilled. It is then a simple task to position the jig in the gun port and then using a micro drill through the locating holes to mark the position for the eyebolts and rings.

 

The jig is in position, ready for the micro drill to be run through the two holes.

 

The completed gun ports with the eyebolts and rings added. The ring on the left hand side needs to be repositioned so it hangs down.

 

It will take a couple more hours work to complete the adding the eyebolts and rings to the gun ports. Then I plan to move on to fitting the rudder assembly and tiller. I would like to think that towards the back end of this week I will have moved on making the mast, yards, bowsprit and booms.

Edited June 7, 2021 by glennard2523

[Oboship]

Glenn,

This is a very informative build log, and I like your jig for the eyebolts!
As you started the build in April and when I'm looking at its current state I wonder how many hours are you working on the Alert each day?

Uwe

[Glenn-UK]

9 minutes ago, Oboship said:

How many hours are you working on the Alert each day?

Uwe

Hello Uwe

Many thanks for your comments. I like to share my build experience and to try to help others along the way.

 

I would normally like spend, on average, 3 to 4 hours per day, which is a benefit of being retired.

[Glenn-UK]

Rudder Assembly

This was a relatively straight forward task. After coating the rudder with a very thin coat of polyurethane varnish I sprayed the lower part white, two coats with a light sand between the coats. The top part of the rudder was then painted black as was the rudder gudgeon pintle's and braces. The two parts of the tiller arm were glued together and the laser char was removed from the edges.

 

All the rudder parts are ready to be assembled.

 

The rudder gudgeon and pintle's and braces were bend and affixed to the rudder using the klear polish method.

 

A 0.8mm micro drill was then used to drill the holes in the rudder and stern post for the rudder gudgeon pintle's. Once the pintles were secured in place the rudder was offered up and secured to the stern post.

 

The tiller arm was then glued to the rudder.

 

Bow Area PE Parts

The stem post eyebolt strap and the bowsprit ‘Iron Hoop' PE parts were painted black and then added to the bow area. The square bolts were then fixed to the ends of bowsprit ‘Iron Hoop'.

 

 

 

Deck Furniture

All the deck items have now been glued in place. I just need to add and rig the stanchions before moving mast, yards and booms. I have decided to leave adding the cannons and swivel gun assembly for the time being. I will add the deadeye and chain plate assembly to the channels when I'm ready to start the rigging phase.

 

 

Edited June 9, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Today has been a good day, even though I did not spend a great deal of time in the shipyard.

 

Adding the Stanchions

The first task was to add the various stanchions to the top of the capping rail. Once they were in glued in place (CA Gel) I added the 0.5mm black thread.

 

Main Mast

I started work on the main mast with assembling the trestle tree and cross tree parts.

 

The main mast is made from a length of 8mm dowel. I started by marking the position of bottom of the mast checks, the start of the mast taper and the section that is below the deck level. I cut the dowel slightly long which I find is useful when tapering the dowel using my mini lathe.

 

 

Using my mini desk bench saw I trimmed the two edges for the 2 x mast cheeks so the width was 6mm. Using the bench saw again I then made the 5mm square section. I undercut the square section and then using a sanding stick I finished making the square section, checking at regular intervals to see if the trestle tree and cross tree assembly would fit. Once I was happy with the 5mm square section the top part was rounded off until the cap would fit.

 

The final task was to add the taper from 8mm to 7mm along the above deck section, which was achieved using the mini lathe. The main mast is now ready for the cleats, belay pin rack and rigging blocks to be added.

 

Top cap and trestle and cross tree assembly

 

Mast checks are taped in position checking the angle of the trestle and cross trees is correct. 1mm copper wire used as a temporary FID. Yes I know the FID sits on top and not below. I had a senior moment,

 

Topgallant Mast

The topgallant mast was made from a length of 4mm dowel. Using my mini lathe I started by reducing the top section down from 4mm to 1.5mm. I made sure the topgallant mast truck would fit.

 

With the dowel still in the mini lathe the 4mm to 3mm taper section was added.

 

I finished off the work on the topgallant mast by adding the 2 x 1mm holes.

 

Checking the fit of the main mast and topgallant mast through the cap and fid (copper wire for the time being and still below and not above)

 

Rigging hole in the topgallant mast (copper wire inserted)

 

Topgallant mast fitted

 

Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck

 

Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck

 

Main and topgallant mast assembly dry fitted to the deck

Edited June 10, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Work has been slow over the last couple of days due to an unexpected family emergency. I have now completed the shaping of the bowsprit and two booms (main and driver). They will require the various block and cleats to be added.

 

The bowsprit was an interesting shaping task. The raw material is an 8mm dowel. It requires a square end which has to fit through the square hole in the pawl bitt head and bowsprit step post. The rest of the dowel is tapered 6mm (from the square post) to 4.5mm at the other end. I started the process my making the square post section. Using my mini bench saw I cut the basic square shape. It then required a bit of effort using a sanding stick before the part would fit through the pawl bitt head and bowsprit step post. The round section of the dowel was then tapered using my mini bench lathe. In retrospect I think it would have been easier to have done the taper first and then squared of the end section. The 2 x 1mm holes were drilled. I have inserted some copper wire in these holes for the time being.

 

Bowsprit has been dry fitted.

 

The Main Boom and Driver Boom were both quite easy to make. The Main Boom raw material was a 5mm dowel. I started by tapering the short section for the main boom jaws. Once I was happy with how the main boom jaws fitted I then tapered the the rest of the dowel from 5mm down to 3mm.

 

Main Boom resting on main bitt rail

 

I repeated the process for the driver boom, which was made from a length of 3mm dowel.

 

Main and driver boom. I used a small length of 0,1mm thread to temporarily hold the driver boom for the photo shoot. 

 

Bowsprit, Main Boom and Driver Boom with main mast

[Glenn-UK]

Yards

There are 4 yards to make for the Cutter Alert, 2 made from 4 mm dowels and 2 made from 3mm dowels. I thought I would share my build process for the spreadsail yard.

 

The first task is to cut the 4 lengths of dowel as shown in the picture below. I always cut the dowels longer than required. This is because they need to be tapered and as the ends will need a small hole when positioned in the lathe these can be removed once the taper is complete.

 

 

With reference to the picture below I have added tape the middle section of the dowels, which will not be tapered. I have also added a pencil mark to indicate the central point on all the yards.

 

 

The next picture shows the spreadsail yard positioned in the lathe ready for the tapering process. I ensured the end of the non-tapered section was at the chuck face.

 

 

I like to use a thin strip of 120 grit sandpaper to perform the tapering process, as shown in the picture below.

 

 

Using the thin strip of sandpaper, the taper was applied. I stopped the lathe at regular intervals to check the diameter of the dowel at various points along the length, especially at the end where the 4mm dowel had to be reduced to 2mm, as shown in the next photo.

 

 

 

I then repeat the tapering process of the other side of the spreadsail yard. The tapered dowel was then given a light sanding, by hand, with 800 grit sandpaper. Once I was happy with how it looked the two ends were trimmed away so the spreadsail yard was the correct length, as shown in the next picture.

 

 

Before painting the spreadsail yard black I prefer to add the yard items which are:

 

a)       7 x 3mm single blocks

b)      4 x yard cleats

c)       2 x inner yard large cleats

d)      1 x pin for fixing yard to mast which I have found does make the rigging much easier.

 

Having carefully marked the position of the 2 off inner yard large cleats I used a 0.8 micro drill to make the holes for the two cleat pins. I then added a touch of ca gel to the cleats pins before they were added to the spreadsail yard. I also drilled and added the pin. As can be seen in the photo below they seem to be positioned correctly.

 

 

Moving swiftly on the positions of the 4 off yard cleats were marked on the spreadsail yard. I used the pear wood yard cleats rather than the PE cleats and then used Titebond original glue as it allowed me a bit more time to adjust their positions. The next two photos show the yard cleats in place on the spreadsail yard.

 

 

 

The spreadsail yard is now ready to have the 7  x 3mm single blocks added and to be painted black.

 

  

I am using the same method to seize the 7 x 3mm single blocks for the spreadsail yard as detailed in my Duchess of Kingston build, which I copied from DELF. Each block is held in the quad hands and seized to a length of 0.5mm black thread using some thin black fly-tying thread secured with a series of alternate top and bottom half hitches. A touch of GA gel was then applied to the seizing. A completed seized block is shown in the photo below.

 

 

It did not take too long to seize the 7 x 3 mm spreadsail yard blocks as shown in the next picture.

 

 

The 7 x 3mm blocks have been placed in their approx. position on the spreadsail yard in the next photo.

 

 

The 7 x 3mm blocks were then attached to the spreadsail yard using a simple clove hitch knot. I then applied a diluted coat of Titebond original to the thread to seal the clove hitch knot and to keep the blocks in the right position.

 

 

Once the diluted Titebond original had dried the excess thread ends were trimmed and the spreadsail yard was painted black and then temporarily pinned to the main mast for the next photo.

 

 

The above process will be repeated for the 3 other yards.

[Glenn-UK]

Work is still progressing on the Cutter Alert, but my time in the shipyard is reduced at the moment, but hopefully normal service will be resumed in the next week or two.

 

As to progress I have completed making the 4 x yards and 2 x booms and they are ready to be added to the mast when required.

 

I have also completed all the work on the bowsprit as can be seen in the next two photo's.

 

Blocks have been added. 4 x 3mm single block and 1 x triple block.

 

FID has been added.

 

Moving on to the main mast I have added various items as shown in the photos below.

 

Belay pin rack

 

Cleats

 

The eyebolts are only dry fitted at the moment as I may add the shrouds before adding these blocks and the cheeks.

 

I only have 3 x yard lift block left to add to the main mast. After that I will add the deadeyes to the channels  and commence the rigging phase.

 

 

Edited June 17, 2021 by glennard2523

[killickthere]

Subscribed.

Wow thank you Glen for the fantastic tutorial on the Alert. I am working currently on the Bounty launch and have been looking for my next build. With your log I may just attempt the Alert! Thank again!

[Glenn-UK]

7 minutes ago, killickthere said:

Subscribed.

Wow thank you Glen for the fantastic tutorial on the Alert. I am working currently on the Bounty launch and have been looking for my next build. With your log I may just attempt the Alert! Thank again!

My pleasure, I do like to share my methods. My point of reference is DELF build log for Speedy which helped me so much on my Duchess Of Kingston build

[Glenn-UK]

Moving forward I am getting very close to starting the rigging phase. Today I added the chain plates and deadeyes to the channels.

 

Using my round nose pliers I opened the hole in the chain plates for the deadeyes. After the deadeye has been fitted in the chain plate I used my pliers to close up the hole around the deadeye. In the photo below you can see 2 completed assemblies, one with the enlarged hole and 2 waiting.

 

 

I then added a couple of bends to the assembly before fitting to the channels. The photo below shows 5 bent chain plate assemblies ready to be installed in the channel.

 

The next photo shows the chain plate assembly fitted to the channel. I have also added the 3 eyebolts to the channel which are just visible at the right hand side.

 

I had completed adding all the blocks to the main mast. I have also added the platform and mast cheeks and painted the area between the cheeks and cap black, as shown in the next photo.

 

Finally  the next picture shows the current build status.

 

 

I have 7 x 3mm blocks/ eyebolt assemblies to add to the outside of the hull, 4 x cleats to the top of the rails and 6 x iron plate for backstay rigging. This will only take a day or two complete as my time is a bit limited at the moment. Once these items have been added I think I can start the rigging.

Edited June 20, 2021 by glennard2523

[DelF]

Looking very smart Glenn.

[Glenn-UK]

19 minutes ago, DelF said:

Looking very smart Glenn.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to starting the rigging later this week so I can be ready for the release of The Sphinx kit.

[Glenn-UK]

Moving forward I am getting very close to starting the rigging phase. Today I added the chain plates and deadeyes to the channels.

 

Using my round nose pliers I opened the hole in the chain plates for the deadeyes. After the deadeye has been fitted in the chain plate I used my pliers to close up the hole around the deadeye. In the photo below you can see 2 completed assemblies, one with the enlarged hole and 2 waiting.

 

 

I then added a couple of bends to the assembly before fitting to the channels. The photo below shows 5 bent chain plate assemblies ready to be installed in the channel.

 

The next photo shows the chain plate assembly fitted tot he channel. I have also added the 3 eyebolts to the channel which are just visible at the right hand side.

 

I had completed adding all the blocks to the main mast. I have also added the platform and mast cheeks and painted the area between the cheeks and cap black, as shown in the next photo.

 

Finally  the next picture shows the current build status.

 

 

I have 7 x 3mm blocks/ eyebolt assemblies to add to the outside of the hull, 4 x cleats to the top of the rails and 6 x iron plate for backstay rigging. This will only take a day or two complete as my time is a bit limited at the moment. Once these items have been added I think I can start the rigging.

[Glenn-UK]

A little bit more progress.

 

I started by applying a couple of coats of Tung Oil to the wooden areas. I really like the finish.

 

Next I added the anchor cable. This is a length of 1.6mm diameter natural thread. I applied a touch of CA gel to one end and cut a taper. I was then able to thread the cable through the hawse hole, then around the deck items and finally back out through the other hawse hole. As can be seen in this photo I also replaced the main mast belay pin rack with cleats.

 

 

Next I moved on to rigging the Cutter Alert. Using my quad hands I started the process by adding the shroud lines to the main mast. I cut 4 x 60cm lengths of black thread for each of the "double" shrouds and 4 x 40cm lengths for each of the "single" shrouds.

 

I used alternate top and bottom half hitch knots with 0.25mm black thread to seize the shrouds. This is a picture of the first double shroud. The two ends of the seizing thread is ready to cut trimmed. I applied a touch of CA gel before I cut the excess thread. For added security I then added a diluted PVA wash over the seizing.

 

This picture was taken after all the shrouds had been added and looks reasonably neat and tidy.

 

Finally a standard picture showing the shrouds before the deadeyes have been added, which will be the next task.

 

Edited June 22, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

I have started to add the deadeyes and lanyards to the main mast shroud lines. I have never been very good at adding deadeyes to shrouds and then applying the correct tension to the lanyards. I am slowly improving but my technique still needs a lot more work to get nice looking results as will be evident when you look at the photos below. I have a lot of things to ponder before moving on, as I will detail later on in this post.

 

When rigging the Duchess of Kingston I made a jig to help set the position of the deadeye. It is simply a piece of 5mm dowel which is used to represent the shroud deadeye position and two pins which locates the jig to channel deadeye. I have attached a photo of my jig.

 

The next photo shows the jig in position with the first channel deadeye

 

The shroud is then wrapped around the dowel, and the seizing is applied using a 20mm length of 0.1mm natural thread. Once the seizing is completed the loose shroud end is pulled which then tightens the loop around the dowel.

 

A touch a ca gel is then applied to the seizing and the seizing thread ends trimmed. Next the deadeye is added to the loop, ensuring the holes are correctly positioned. Next I cut a 25cm length of 0.25mm natural thread for the lanyard which threaded through the deadeyes as shown in the photo below

 

The process was the repeated for the next shroud line

 

Now come the dilemma. As can been in the photo below seen the two right sided deadeyes and possibly the one on the far left are just about acceptable. The other two are not very good with regards to the position and / or seizing. 

a) Do I accept the bad workmanship knowing it will probably look Ok when fully rigged and when displayed this side will not be on show.

b) Do I remove (some or all of) the shrouds and start again. This would be the right thing to do if I was building a model for display / commission.

 

 

If I do decide to redo, do just replace the two very bad shrouds or do I start again and redo all of them which will given a chance to try to improve my technique. I am currently undecided. I decided to build the Cutter Alert to continue my support of @chris watton with his Vanguard Models venture and to fill a building void after completing the Duchess Of Kingston until the release of The Sphinx which will be my next major build project. I am enjoying the build and ideally I would like to build the kit to help showcase Chris excellent design work and kit quality. On the other hand I want to get the model built before The Sphinx becomes available and to have a couple of weeks break. I think I will need another 6 weeks to complete the rigging which seems ideal with the forecast Sphinx release date.

 

Also I am not sure what I will do with the Cutter Alert, once it is complete. It will probably stay in the conservatory (which is my shipyard) so this side can be hidden from view. I think I should have enough spare 0.75mm black thread left should I decide to rework the shrouds.

 

I have added the backstay deadeye to the small chain plate and is now ready to be rigged.

 

Edited June 26, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

After much pondering I decided to leave the badly rigged starboard side shroud deadeyes. I have now added the lanyards to the starboard side backstay deadeyes. The final task was to add the shroud cleats to the first four leading shroud lines which was a little bit fiddly. Thankfully it did not take too long to complete the task. I found it best to tie the upper part of the cleat to the shroud first before tying the low part of the cleat to the shroud.

 

 

I am now currently working on the port side shrouds and expect to complete in the next day or two. My time has been limited recently due to my mother being taken in to hospital.

 

Once the port side shrouds has been completed I can move to to adding the ratlines. I discovered, when working on the Duchess of Kingston, I quite like the routine of adding the ratlines.

Edited June 28, 2021 by glennard2523

[Tim Curtis]

Great kit...beautifully made.

[Glenn-UK]

Just now, Tim Curtis said:

Great kit...beautifully made.

Hello Tim

Many thanks, you comment is much appreciated.

 

Glenn

[Jasseji]

This is superb work @glennard2523 especially the rigging

 

[Glenn-UK]

45 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

This is superb work @glennard2523 especially the rigging

 

Hello Jacek

Many thanks for your comment, I am not the best rigger but with each build I am improving.

 

Glenn

[Glenn-UK]

Moving forward I have now added the shroud lines to the channels. Before moving on to the ratlines I decided to add the Main Boom as well.

 

A couple of pictures of the completed shrouds and main boom

 

 

This is a close up of the parrel beads securing the main boom to the main mast.

 

With regard to the ratlines I decided I would add the bottom two ratline first as these need to be positioned around the seizing and shroud cleats. I used 0.1mm natural thread. I opted to use the Gutermann colour 722-1 thread rather than the kit supplied thread as this type of thread was supplied with the DOK kit and I really liked it.

 

The natural thread is dyed black. The completed ratlines are not brilliant but I can live with how they look.

 

As I have said before I actually like the task of adding the ratlines. The process I use is to fit every 5th ratline first, then I add the middle ratlines between each 5th before adding the remaining two ratlines. I can only work left to right as I seem to get a brain freeze when trying to tie a clove hitch knot when working right to left.

 

This is the start of the ratlines.

 

This picture shows the template in position. The solid lines represent every 5th ratline line position. The dot-dash lines represent the middle section between every 5th ratline and the dotted lines represent the final ratlines to be added.

 

I have now added every 5th ratline. They are all correctly positioned even though the camera angle makes it look otherwise. These completed ratlines have had a diluted pva solution applied, wihich will help to stiffen the ratlines and will also (hopefully) prevent the knots working loose when the excess thread ends are trimmed. I will dye all the ratline black on completion.

Edited July 1, 2021 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

I have finally completed the ratlines on the starboard side. I had to do it in fits and starts as my mother was being moved into nursing care so I had quite a bit to sort out in that regard. I have a track and field event tomorrow where I will be racing 400M, 800M 1500m and 5000M so will have little or no time to start on the port side ratlines. I am currently ranked no 1 in Yorkshire in my age group (60-65) and 14th in the UK. These rankings will drop dramatical as the lockdown eases and the proper track and field runners start competing again.

 

Pictures of the completed ratlines

 

 

The display case I ordered for my Duchess Of Kingston build arrived yesterday. The Duchess does look nice in the case, however the case does not look right on the planned location which is a shame so putting the Duchess in a glass case has been side-lined for the time being and she is now uncased and back on top of the book case in our dining room.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2021 by glennard2523

[Freezing Parrot]

Very nice build! I appreciate your closeup shots of the details as you go along. Very helpful!

[Glenn-UK]

8 minutes ago, Freezing Parrot said:

Very nice build! I appreciate your closeup shots of the details as you go along. Very helpful!

Hello Mike

I am not a great picture taker, but I am glad you are finding my log helpful.

[Oboship]

All the best for your mom and good luck with the races!

The hull and rigging of Alert look very nice! And -by the way- your Duchess (and in her showcase) is another beauty. I will certainly take a look at the build log very soon.

Uwe

[Glenn-UK]

No time spent yesterday in the shipyard due to my track and field racing. I have included a picture taken yesterday of one of my races (400M). What is most noticeable is all the other runners appear to be around 17 to 18 years old and they were all very fast and very lean. I weighed in at a stately 63 years and was quite slow and not very lean🤣.

 

I have been busy today and I completed the port side ratlines. It took me aorund 4 minutes to add each ratline, a couple of hours of effort in total.

 

In this picture the template has been positioned and the first three ratlines added.

 

This is a close up of the first 3 ratlines. These ratlines are correctly positioned, they look wrong due to the parallax error.

 

The ratlines are completed, some ends still require to be trimmed.

 

This is the indian ink I use to dye the ratlines

 

The ratlines have been trimmed and dyed black. As can be noted in the picture I have also started to add the missing back stays. Each of the two 5mm single blocks that are dangling from these stays will be rigged through some more blocks before being secured to their respective backstay iron plates

 

Edited July 5, 2021 by glennard2523

[Freezing Parrot]

I think you should Photoshop out the starting lines, Photoshop in a finish tape, frame it, and call it good. You are in the lead, after all. pictures don't lie.

[Oboship]

Very ambitious (that gentleman wearing the Scarborough Athletic Club t-shirt) !

 

[Glenn-UK]

41 minutes ago, Oboship said:

Very ambitious (that gentleman wearing the Scarborough Athletic Club t-shirt) 

I think I just about reached the start of the home straight as the other 7 runners crossed the finish line