Sherbourne by Stockholm tar - Caldercraft - 1/64

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up with your lovely cutter after my holidays, Kester.

 

Keep up the good work, mate!

 

John

[fnkershner]

I am glad to hear you are getting better. We want you healthy when you return so you can finish the model.

[Stockholm tar]

John,

 

Thanks, glad you like her.

 

Floyd,

 

That's kind of my thinking as well, and I am feeling a lot better.

[Blue Ensign]

I just love it Kester, a model with  enormous appeal for me.

 

That's a sweet looking little cutter she's carrying.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Stockholm tar]

B.E,

 

Thanks again. Coming from you that's a certainly compliment.

 

I'll be mentioning the boat a little later.

Edited August 8, 2013 by Stockholm tar

[Stockholm tar]

There are a pair of belaying pins in the small rail situated on the port and starboard quarters. Originally I provided these for the (lower) spread yard braces and the gaff vangs – before I discovered that vangs, at least on cutters, had not then been introduced. Thus the forward one is now a spare. There is also an eyebolt on each rail for a lead block, through which the braces will pass before being belayed.

 

Moving forward, on each side of the companion I provided shot garlands for the 3pdr guns, and these are also situated on each side of the other hatches. Garlands are also fixed to the bulwarks, between the guns. The aftermost, between the last pair of guns on each side, actually contain only three balls – and one belaying pin. This is to belay the falls of the running backstays, when they are rigged. The balls themselves are made from the round parts of a cheap necklace, which just happened to be the right size – and are definitely surplus to my wife’s requirements! Each ball was cut from the chain, tidied up, painted and then glued in place. (Btw, I usually use a thin stick with a small blob of blue tack on one end, to lightly pick up and glue small objects like this. I find it works quite well, and one can place items rather more accurately than with the fingers.)

 

We now come to the guns, which I have mentioned before as having caused a certain amount of trouble with relation to the ports! For each gun I provided a pair eyebolts in the bulwarks to take the breech ropes, another pair for the side tackles, and one in the deck behind each gun for the running-in tackle. The latter, of course, should really have a ring through it. I decided not to rig the side or running-in tackles, which perhaps was an ommission and, again with hindsite, I think the breech ropes are not really thick enough. However…

 

 

Each of the hatches was given a coaming, this being caulked into the surrounding planks and raised a little above deck level. I decided to fill in the hatches themselves with offcuts from the kit and paint them black, before fitting the red gratings, to give a sense of depth. This seemed to work reasonably well, the main hatch in any case being largely hidden by the boat.

 

We now come to that aforementioned very necessary item of equipment – without which, no vessel is really complete! I copied a suitable drawing, from ’The Boats of Men of War’ by WE May, which was about the right size that I needed. The boat was constructed on a small building board, with scale frames and planking, the latter being mostly card since it was much easier to work and shape. The gunwale, which is made from wood, has rowlocks cut in it. The interior was then fitted out with thwarts, resting on internal stringers, sternsheets, and a small foredeck. The inside was painted grey, and fitted with bottom-boards which were painted red. This I thought both made for a nice contrast with the main interior, and also matched the red of the cutter herself. I painted the outside the same ivory shade I had used below the cutter’s waterline, and the gunwale is black. To finish off, the oars were made from orange sticks, with thin card for the blades, and painted white. Thin black paper made suitable leathers. The rudder was made from thin ply, with a wood rudder stock, and there is a separate tiller. A coiled painter was provided on the foredeck. The boat was lashed down to four ring bolts in the deck.

 

On either side of the boat are the pumps. I modified the base of these, although I used the metal top and handle. Their bases were cut at an angle, so that the imaginary ’business end’ of the pump shaft would be adjacent to the keel, where the water would normally collect. The handle is connected by a brass rod mechanism , actually the stem of a cut-off ringbolt, and there is a short outfall pipe on the outboard side of each pump. The base of the pump and the handle are painted red, the former also having two ’iron’ bands, made from black paper, around them.

 

 

Forward of the boat and main hatch, and just aft of the mast, are the jeer bitts. This structure was not included in the kit, being an addition of my own, but it is certainly a feature of cutters of the period, as is evidenced by models and pictures. It consists of two uprights, with a geared roller at the top and a crossbar beneath and, as its name suggests, it is used for hoisting purposes. The gearing on either end of the top roller, is actually just pencilled lines drawn on the black-painted ends, but it looks effective enough. There is a winding handle on each end, made from pieces of bent wire.

 

I originally fitted six eyebolts to the deck, to take the various tackles connected to the running rigging that will be belayed to cleats fitted around the base of the mast. I am now not certain I will use all of them, and actually since then I have fitted another two outboard of the anchor cable, one on each side, as giving a better lead. However, one never knows.

 

Abreast the mast on either bulwark, are two pinrails, with six pins in each. These were supplied with the kit and at the time of fitting them, the number of pins seemed barely adequate. In fact, with rather more rigging seemingly to be belayed, I think they may be woefully inadequate. I should perhaps made have my own rail, with extra pins – but I tell myself, I can always resort to shroud cleats if necessary!

 

Forward of the mast is a rail. This again was supplied with the kit, but I added six belaying pins to the crossbar, as I intend to belay the the square sail sheets here. Ahead of that is the foredeck grating, down to the crews quarters, with the shot garlands on either side. Offset to the starboard side I fitted a chimney, painted black, and which I imagine connects to the stove below!

 

Next we come to the bowsprit support, from the kit. This was straightforward, but I felt that it needed pinning as well as gluing to the deck. The heel of the dowel-rod bowsprit was squared, to pass through the support, and I drilled two extra holes through it, to give the impression that the bowsprit can be moved in and out.

 

I wasn’t too happy with the anchor windlass as supplied, as I felt it didn’t look at all realistic, the completely straight windlass bar being rather strangely made up from short sections! I redesigned it to my own liking, giving it a proper shape, with hexagonal faces. The central section, was made to look as if it had toothed gearing, that engaged with the small bar-mounted rachet, but this again was merely pencilled on the black finish. The equidistant holes for the bars were also just painted black, on the red structure. I had thought about providing the bars themselves, but then the lack of a place to stow them arose – so I stored them below!

 

The anchors also needed some attention. The anchors themselves I thought were well cast and with the minimum of flash, but the wooden stocks – made as in actual practice from two halves - needed some considerable modification. To begin with they were too long, so I reduced the length at each end so that they were approximately the same length as the metal shank – which fitted with the proportions for an anchor of this type. They then needed sanding somewhat. The modified arms were then glued together around the shank, below the ring, at a ninety degree angle to the arms. Four ’iron’ bands, made from black paper, were then glued around the stocks at appropriate points. Finally, the anchor rings were ’puddened’, or wound round with black cord, which on the real vessel helps to prevent chafe. The anchors are held in their stowed position, by to two supports on the outside of the bulwarks – my own invention – although I think I may have made them a little overlarge. They are also made fast with a length of line, belayed to the two aftermost timber heads. The anchor cables are lengths of plaited cord, that I thought looked somewhat realistic. They are perhaps a little overscale, but I think they do the job. Running aft past the mast, their inboard ends disappear down the fore end of the main hatch, in which I made two squared holes. Their other ends are ’clinched’ to the anchor ring, their circumference making them too large, of course, to tie a knot!

 

The catheads needed little modification, and are basically as supplied. I didn’t give them any decoration, merely a couple of paper ’iron’ bands, before painting them black. Due to the lack of suitable belaying places I decided to fit a crossbar between the catheads, over the bowsprit, with some pins. Two of these are already taken up, by the inhaul and outhaul lines for the traveller ring, for the staysail. Finally, there is a band around the top of the stem piece, with a ringbolt on the fore side to take the preventer stay when rigged.

 

 

Next time: the outboard details, the bowsprit and the mast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

Kester,

 

your Sherbourne in every detail is real eyecandy, also the White Sub waterline finish combined with the clinker planking, in all a very impressing build

 

Nils

[Stockholm tar]

Nils,

 

Thank you. I'm quite impressed with her myself!

[Stockholm tar]

Some details on outboard side of the bulwarks are worth a mention. The Sherbourne has four sweep ports per side, and I had thought to make the sweeps themselves and stow them on deck. I went so far as to make up the four on one side, of roughly the correct length and circumference but minus the blades, the intention being to fit them on one side of the main hatch. The other four, of course, would go on the other side. However, I couldn’t make them fit satisfactorily with the other fittings already in place, so I then thought of putting them in racks on the bulwarks. However, as that idea didn’t seem to work very well either, I decided not to fit them. Quite how they stowed them on the original cutters, much less how they manouvered and operated them, I have no idea – my guess is with some difficulty! (As Sherbourne spent her approximately twenty-year working life in the English Channel, I’m not sure she would have used them much at all, since that stretch of water is rarely calm and without any wind. I therefore felt justified in leaving them off!)

 

Another feature I considered were the gunport lids which, perhaps strangely, are not provided for in the kit. In the end I didn’t include them, but I suppose the option is always there to make them should I wish to, particularly for the ports in the bows where I imagine it might get rather wet!

 

 

Whilst at the bows, I have already mentioned the main and upper wales. Butted up to either side of the stem I fitted small, shaped, verticle pieces of black painted card, effectively joining the two black wales, and which I thought turned out to be a nice feature. Two black-painted timbers do the same job at the stern. The channels and their support ’chains’ are both glued and pinned to the bulwarks, due to the stresses likely to come from the shrouds. I painted the channels black, but left the lower deadeyes natural, after much debate as to whether to paint them as well. The chains are yellow ochre to match, and blend in with, the hull - their lower ends being painted black at the level of the lower wale.

 

We now come to the bowsprit. This was more-or-less as straight from the box, apart from being cut to length and being squared at the heel. I didn’t give it much of a taper, since these were fairly hefty spars and were required to take quite a lot of strain at their extremity. Here were fastened the cranse iron around the spar, which I made from black paper and to which the bowsprit shrouds were fixed by lugs, and the triple block to take the topgallant forestay and the topsail braces. I used ringbolts with the ends cut off for the lugs, fastened equidistant around the spar. Just inboard of it there is a also sheave hole for the jib traveller ring outhaul, thus it can be appreciated that the bowsprit would have to be pretty substantial.

 

The spar fits into a half round cut-out in the port side rail next the stempost, and it was a matter of patiently (!) sanding the aperture and then trying the bowsprit until I was satisfied it sat properly, with its heel resting in the foredeck support. Just before fitting, the bowsprit was stained and its end was painted black, the whole spar then being beeswaxed. After gluing it in place an ’iron’ band, made from a strip of black paper, was then fastened over the spar, to represent the iron retaining fitting.

 

The bowsprit shrouds, one each side, consist of two parts. The black standing part has one end made fast to an eyebolt in the main wale at the bow. The other is joined to one of a pair of double blocks, its corresponding block being connected to one of the lugs on the side of the cranse iron. A running rigging line reeves between the two, coming off of the block at the end of the spar and running aft to one of the timber heads each side of the bow, where they are made fast.

 

At this point I decided to fit the traveller ring for the jib and, having found a suitably sized metal ring, ’puddened’ it and then glued it to the bowsprit. Because the sails wouId be furled, I glued it at a suitable ’run-in’ position. I then fitted the outhaul and inhaul lines, which are made fast to two pins in the rail that I fitted between the catheads. From the ring, the former reeves downwards through the ’sheave’ in the bowsprit, as mentioned above, then back to the bow where it reeves through a single block on the starboard side of the stem at the main wale. It then runs up and over the bulwark, before being made fast to the bow pinrail. I think this arragement makes for a better lead for the outhaul, rather than having it run along under the bowsprit where it could get tangled up with other fittings. I followed the example given for the Alert. (I passing, I have found it a good idea to make a small groove along the spar on each side in way of the rope, since it looks as though the line actually passes over a sheave rather than just going through a hole, and sits closer to the spar.)

 

 

There is one other feature, at the aft end of the outboard bulwarks. These are the boarding steps up each side, between the aftermost pair of guns, with corresponding ones on the inside of the bulwarks. Another interesting detail, which no vessel such as this should really be without – after all, how else are the crew to board her from the boat? This was probably a frequent daily occurrence with cutters like Sherbourne, in her line of work.

 

With the hull and bowsprit finished, it was time to think about the mast. I won’t go into much detail this time except to say that both it, and its topmast, were much modified from that provided with the kit!

 

Next time: the mast and topmast, and the boom. (Apologies by the way for the recurring use of photographs – but I get the impression you won't mind!)

Edited August 21, 2013 by Stockholm tar

[fnkershner]

Kester - I take it you are back! This is wonderful. I am very impressed with the clinker planking and how well they line up on that bow shot.

[Stockholm tar]

Kester - I take it you are back! This is wonderful. I am very impressed with the clinker planking and how well they line up on that bow shot.

 

I am? Actually, I'm not sure that I was ever away – it's just that the latest instalment took rather longer than I anticipated – mother-in-law was visiting at the cottage! So now the blood pressure has gone down a bit (only kidding, she's lovely really and 87), perhaps we can get back to normal.

 

Thanks for the kind words – and I have to say that I catch myself admiring the clinker planking myself, now and then!

Edited August 21, 2013 by Stockholm tar

[Jason]

Kester,  What a great build of an interesting subject.  The Sherbourne is on my short list of kits to purchase, and your example here is definitely an inspiration as to what is possible.  As others have already said, the clinker construction and white hull are very striking.  Keep up the great work!

[Stockholm tar]

Jason,

 

Thank you.

 

The Sherbourne is an interesting kit and, as I mentioned earlier, is suitable both for the beginner and the more experienced builder. It certainly lends itself to further detailing and, for the builder who already has one or two models under his belt, can present something of a challenge. I think vessels like cutters often get overlooked in favour of larger ships, such as the the Victory, when they are just as interesting in their own way.

 

The clinker planking by the way, was reasonably easy to do, but I think is effective. The below the waterline colour is actually ivory, which I thought would not be so stark. It also has the pleasing effect of making the model look rather older.

 

If you're thinking of building her then go for it, although seeing your name, shouldn't you be constructing a model of the 'Argo'? As to your last sentence, I will endeavour to keep up the standard!

[Jim Lad]

Thanks for the update, Kester.  She's a real credit to you.

 

John

[Blue Ensign]

I don't think we can have enough photos of your sweet little cutter Kester, they're a pleasure to look at.

Good narrative of your build as well.

 

B.E.

[Stockholm tar]

John, BE,

 

Thanks. BE, glad you're enjoying the write-ups, besides the photos.

[egkb]

Hi Stockholm T,

 

I picked up the Sherbourne kit myself a few weeks ago as I too rate the smaller ships highly (frigates, brigs, schooners, cutters and the like) and am looking forward to starting it when I complete Bounty,in fact on the advice of MSW I checked the kit contents only yesterday and discovered that one bulkhead and it's surrounding 'matrix' completely missing, am awaiting a reply from the seller, so hopefully it will be resolved)

Would you happen to have a 'log' or indeed photos of your early Sherbourne work (Keel laying, bulkheads, etc) or were they lost in the crash? as your log is an immense help to say the least.

 

Eamonn

[Stockholm tar]

Hi Eamon,

 

Good for you on picking the Sherbourne! As I mentioned, she makes a nice little model, so have fun.

 

Yes, it's always good to check the parts first to see they are all there. Sorry to hear that one of your bulkheads is missing, but hopefully your seller can resolve it. If not, perhaps you could try contacting Jotika who might supply a replacement part.

 

Sorry, but all that I've posted is all there is. Unfortunately, I didn't start a build log from the beginning, and only began one after the hull was finished so it wouldn't have disappeared in the crash. The log, such as it is, is written in retrospect so I don't think I can help much with the early stages, even with photos – and I'm afraid my memory is not that good!

 

I'm glad though my offerings, such as they are, have been of some help. I would suggest you check out the other logs of the MSW Sherbourne fleet, as you'll probably glean some assistance from them.

 

Good luck.

[Stockholm tar]

With the mastcoat in place the mast provided made for a reasonably good fit, but to aid in its location I cut a slot in its heel, which secured it over the keel piece. I then tapered the mast from about half-way up its length using a small modelling plane, being careful to take just a thin sliver off with each stroke, and finishing off with a fine-grade sandpaper. (Btw, it is important to always have a sharp blade in the plane which, I find, also tends to reduce ’catching’.) This procedure took a little while, but I didn’t want to give the mast too much of a taper – and I think it resulted in a nice-looking spar. The kit’s topgallant mast was also, to my mind, a little on the thin side and I wanted to both beef it up and lengthen it. I therefore substituted my own from a suitable piece of dowel. Both the topgallant and the lower mast were made of similar dimensions to those given for the Alert, in the AOTS book.

 

Because of the above changes I was unable to use the ’cross trees’ and mast cap from the kit but I had decided to replace these in any case as, from my point of view, they were too small. Both parts are in fact the same, with similar-sized holes drilled for the lower mast and topgallant mast. Initially I attempted to adapt them but, when endeavouring to drill out one of the holes to enlarge it to take the head of the lower mast, it split in half – so that was that, I had to scratch them! The replacements turned out reasonably well, with separate ’trestle trees’ and ’cross trees’, into which the lower and topgallant masts fitted snugly, the lower ’cross tree’ structure resting on a pair of bibbs either side of the mast. I refer to them as ’cross trees’ and ’tressle trees’, but this is really a misnomer as they do not seem to have been fitted on cutters at this date. The structure I made more resembled an oblong-shaped ’box’, open at the top and bottom, with an off-center division passing between the two masts reflecting their differing circumferences.

 

Cutter lower masts and topmasts were in one piece at this date, hence the separate upper mast is referred to as the topgallant. The topgallant mast was also fidded abaft, or behind, the lower mast which meant that backstays were not normally required and could therefore dispensed with. Standing and running backstays were only fitted to the lower mast.  As a further historical note, Sherbourne was very likely one of the last of her type to have this masting arrangement. From around 1780, cutter masts followed the practice on larger ships, with which we are perhaps more familiar, and were rigged with a lower mast and longer topmast, complete with proper crosstrees, trestle trees, bolsters, and backstays. There are also some differences with the shrouds. On Sherbourne these terminate just above the position of the gaff (fitting over a shoulder or stop) rather than going as far as the doubling, but with the later rig the shrouds passed around the lower masthead. The number of yards and their hoisting arrangements also differ from later practice, but more about these later, except to say that pins were inserted into the masts to take the yards when fitted.

 

 

The after side of the lower mast head was fitted with eyebolts to take the blocks for the throat and peak halliards and the boom topping lift, and stops were fitted in various positions for some of the rigging, such as the forestays when they they are fitted. At the base of the lower mast, I fitted a saddle around the aft side of the mast on which the boom jaws rest, whilst below them five cleats were equally spaced around the mast, to take the falls of the running rigging which might be belayed there. I’m not quite sure yet what all of these lines will be but, as I mentioned before, there is an overall lack of belaying points – so I think providing a few more will be an advantage. The cleats were painted black, as were the crosstrees, caps and masthead, whilst the mast itself was stained a reddish brown.

 

The topgallant mast, as mentioned, was a replacement. As with the lower mast, this was carefully tapered at its upper end, and given a snug fit at the heel to fit the crosstrees and mastcap. Not immediately obvious to the eye is the fid, made made fom a small cut-off nail, which passes through a hole drilled through the heel of the mast, and which rests on the upper edges of the ’trestle trees’. As mentioned it is not that noticeable, especially as the whole assembly is painted black – but at least I know it’s there! Just below this is the sheave hole for the toprope, the rope itself being made fast to an eyebolt on the port side of the mastcap. There is a corresponding eyebolt on the starboard side, for the toprope block.

 

At the upper end of the mast there are again stops for the rigging, and at the very top I fitted a truck. This was not provided for in the kit, but I think any mast looks unfinished without one! This was easy to make, being merely a suitably sized piece of dowel rod, with rounded edges and a small capping on the top. Four small holes, two on each side were then drilled, which will take the flag halliards when they are rigged. The topgallant mast was finished off similarly to the lower mast, with the lower end and masthead being painted black, and the spar itself being stained a reddish-brown colour. The masts were then lightly treated with beeswax.

 

I decided to glue the topgallant mast to the lower mast before stepping them as one unit – and in the process completely forgot about how I was going to fit the mast hoops, since they would not now of course, fit over my nicely-made crosstrees! This actually didn’t prove to be such a disaster, when I gave it a little more thought, and the problem was satisfactorily resolved as I will mention later.

 

I opted to glue the mast in place, with a smear of glue around the partners at deck level, and with a spot on the heel where it fits over the keel piece. The actual stepping of the mast went quite smoothly, and it made a close fit. To locate the cut out in the heel onto the keel piece, I had made a small pencil marks on the mast at deck level, which showed the fore and aft position. By slightly twisting the mast this way and that, as I pushed it home, I felt the heel ’lock’ in place. The mast was pretty much vertical in the athwartships plane, according to my homemade plumbob gauge, although to be sure I put some gentle pressure against the top end of the mast whilst the glue dried. The rake fore and aft was, of course, fixed by the kit design.

 

 

We now come to the boom. The dimensions, from the AOTS bible, called for a spar of 62’ in length, which works out to a model length of 27.62 cm. This was not much longer than the length given in the kit instructions, but again I opted to make my own spar, it being a little thicker at 9.2 cm at it’s maximum girth. Both ends are tapered from this point, approximately a third of the length of the boom from the mast. The sides of the boom at the mast end are then chamferred, to fit the jaws. Since the kit supplied jaws would, of course, no longer fit the thicker boom (but which I otherwise considered suitable) I first split them in half, shaped the tail end to fit, and then glued them to the spar on either side. Finally, I drilled a hole in each side at the tail end of the jaws, to take a couple of belaying pins for the mainsail brails. With the boom thus shaped I painted both ends black, including the jaws, and gave it a beeswax finish.

 

Fittings include: a preventer tackle beneath the boom, consisting of two double blocks fixed to two widely-spaced eyebolts, the fall of the line rove between them coming off of the after block, and being belayed to a small cleat on the side of the boom; two stops on top of the spar at its after end, between which the upper double sheet block strop is fastened; a sheave hole for the mainsail clew outhaul, which also belays to a small cleat on the boom; an eyebolt on top of the spar at the aft end, for the topping lift; another eyebolt, near the jaws, for the tack of the mainsail; there is also a small cleat for the ensign halliards.

 

Having finished all these fittings, it was then time to fit the boom to the mast. The mast end would rest, and be glued to, the boom saddle and I would further secure it (as with the yards) by a pin positioned in the mast. The aft end, however, could still move if not fixed so I decided, since the sails would be furled, to make a boom crutch. I had no reference for this (other than more modern ones I have seen) so I made it out of two simple, substantial-looking cross pieces, with a pin through them where they cross. I have it in mind that they fold when not in use, and can be stowed away. It is simply glued to the deck, behind the two lockers, but it made for a stable support for the aft end of the boom.

 

 

Two jobs remained to be done. The first was to fit the parrels, connecting the jaws to the mast, and here I opted to use the black parrel beads supplied with the kit. Then it was simply a case of tying a length of black rigging thread to one end of the jaws, through the hole already drilled, threading on the requisite number of beads required for it to pass comfortably around the mast (being careful not to make it too tight) and fastening the other end of the thread to the opposite jaws. A small touch of glue on the knot would prevent it from untying.

 

There was one other small job to do before the boom was finished. I thought a small footrope at the after end, overhanging the taffrail, might look the part. This was made from a length of black rigging thread, with simple overhand knots tied at intervals, and fastened to the spar. I fitted another stop to anchor the inboard end, the outer being fastened by a simple loop over the boom.

 

Next time: Some items of rigging, the gaff, and the mainsail.

Edited September 15, 2013 by Stockholm tar

[tkay11]

Thanks for all the detail, Kester. Really useful!

 

Tony

[Stockholm tar]

Tony,

 

Thanks, I hope they are of some use to you. However, having seen your log, I'm sure you have plenty of innotive ideas and solutions of your own!

[mtaylor]

Nice work, Kester.  Looks like you're almost ready to bring in the riggers fulltime.

[Jim Lad]

Beautiful work (as usual), Kester!

 

John

[Stockholm tar]

Mark, John,

 

Thanks again.

 

Mark, as for the riggers, I'm getting nearer to that point.

Edited September 5, 2013 by Stockholm tar

[Blue Ensign]

Great photos kester, I just love the look of her

 

B.E.

[popeye the sailor]

no wonder why i haven't seen this build........there wasn't one.  nice that you have folks watching your back.......enjoyed the way you've done this      so you were going to keep this superb piece of eye candy hidden,  I'm glad that it was brought to the light!  let me join the other eye candy cononseurs,  and tell you what a beauty you have here    truly a diamond in the rough!

[Stockholm tar]

no wonder why i haven't seen this build........there wasn't one.  nice that you have folks watching your back.......enjoyed the way you've done this      so you were going to keep this superb piece of eye candy hidden,  I'm glad that it was brought to the light!  let me join the other eye candy cononseurs,  and tell you what a beauty you have here    truly a diamond in the rough!

 

 

Popeye,

 

I can assure you I certainly had no intention to keep my Sherbourne a secret – and had actually begun posting photographs of her. No, I hadn't started a build log from the beginning, but since it was suggested, I have now started one as you can see – although of course, it is in retrospect. As you can imagine, this has meant getting the old brain-box working – and that department is often not the best of tools!  Much of the construction was some time ago now, but it has been an interesting exercise – although the recall process has sometimes dredged up more than I care to remember!

 

Anyway, thanks for your kind words – and I have a feeling you will be following my log from now on!

[popeye the sailor]

yes...I will be......you build is in my watch list.  I had a very extensive list back on the old MSW.   I was a newbie back then {still am in some ways}....I wanted to see and learn as much as I could.

 

I was kidding about being a secret......it's so nice to see some of your work.   hope to see more. 

[Paddy]

Hello Kester,

What beautiful work you’ve done on the cutter. Recently I’ve become interested in cutters and your project is the icing on the cake. I’m new to model ship building but have started to think about doing a full build after I finish the cross section I’m working on.

 

As others have said before me “thank you for posting your grand work”.

[Stockholm tar]

Hello Paddy,

 

Many thanks for your vote of confidence. I'm not sure about her being the 'icing on the cake' – perhaps more the substantial base!

 

It's interesting how much interest cutters have generated, and it looks like you're going to be another convert. I don't know if you intend building Sherbourne, another kit, or indeed scratch, but I think you will have a lot of fun – and I daresay a few headaches.

 

You say you are new to ship modelling but, after having seen your Triton cross section, I think you'd make a splendid job with a cutter. I wish you luck when you get to that point, and I for one will be following with interest.