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How best to cut out small, laser cut parts from the sheet?


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I am in the early stages of building Model Expo's Syren. I have just had a frustrating experience with the eight, laser cut, stern frames. Six of them crumbled almost as soon as I touched them. Another had part of the outer ply missing. It appears that the inner ply was burned and came apart at the touch.

I have just sent in for replacements, hopefully they will be usable, but it lead me to think that I should try to remove all the laser cut parts now so I can put in any necessary parts orders now rather than losing time... and motivation on the build.

 

Whew... long lead-in up to get to the point.

 

As I look at the remaining parts, many are small... really tiny. That leads me to ask, is there a best way to remove laser cut parts from the sheet? I have been using x-acto blades with small repetitive cuts, but even the sharp pointed blade seems too big.

 

Would appreciate any advice.

Richard

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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I use a small razor saw. It looks just like the number 11 blade but it has saw teeth on it. They come from Micromark and are very thin. They come in two different numbers of teeth. These blades fit the standard handle just like the number 11 blades.

 

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=saw+blades

 

Russ

Edited by russ
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Welcome aboard, Richard.  I think you'll find Syren to be a rewarding build.

 

I've always used the #11 blade to cut parts from sheets ---- even well before laser cutting.  With laser cutting, generally 2 or 3 small spots are left uncut to hold the part in the sheet.  Normally, it is only necessary to cut through these small spots to release the piece.  In fact I've seen many kits where the laser cutting is too aggressive and the parts all fall out when you lift the sheet.  It is possible that you have an unusual few sheets of inadequately cut parts.  If you hold your sheet up to the light, you should basically be able to see daylight all around the part except for the small uncut spots.

 

Flip a sheet over and see if you can clearly see the outline of the piece on the 'underside'.  If not, the laser was set wrong.  Hopefully you can make something out and what usually works is to start cutting from the underside along the outline rather than try to force a thick blade through from the 'top'.

 

It's only my speculation but I'm betting it's not you that's the problem......it was the laser depth setting.

 

Best of luck.  ME should be good for any parts you need.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I also tend to go at the little tabs from both sides. Don't try and extract the part from one side only. Cut partway through on one side, then flip the sheet over and do the same from the back. Repeat until you've freed the part. This will ensure a clean edge on both surfaces and any raggy bits in the middle can be sanded away.

 

Andy

Edited by realworkingsailor

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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Russ,

I have ordered the saw tool from Micro Mark. (of course, since I was there, I ordered a couple of other "necessities."

 

Augie,

I have already written to ME for replacement parts. This is the second time I have had to stop and wait for laser cut parts that fell apart. It would have been a lot better if someone had done quality checks of the parts as they were being packed. The burn should have been easy to detect with only a visual inspection. Heck, I am new to this and I am learning what to look for.

I appreciate your tips and have started doing my own inspection.

 

Andy,

I worked on one piece for about 10-15 minutes doing as you suggested, flipping frequently to slowly eat away at both sides. First a piece of the outer ply came loose. Then a piece in the narrow neck crumbled. it looked like the center (inner ply layer) crumbled from burning. The same happened earlier in the build with a couple of the bulkheads but they were big enough to patch except one, which was replaced. These stern frames are much smaller and fixing is much more difficult.

 

 

Thanks to all of you for the help,

Richard

Edited by rtropp

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Richard - Have you started a build log? I would love to see your work as it progresses. My next kit is going to be the Syren. I already have her plans hanging on my wall to keep me motivated. Like Augie I use the #11 blade. I bought a box of 100 Excel blades some years back and I have been very pleased with them.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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Floyd,

I wasn't sure about starting a build log. Two reasons. I hate to take time away from the build itself. Second, I have seen a lot of the build logs abandoned and I suspect that abandoned logs indicate abandoned kits.

 

Since this my first real attempt at this, I did not want to start something if I wasn't sure I would finish it. Also, was not sure I would be producing the quality I would want to share. (handy with tools has not been my strong suite in the past.)

My confidence is growing so I have been toying with the idea of starting one. I have photos from the beginning of my build so I really could. Just need to carve out the time to do it.

 

below is work as of a couple of weeks ago

 

Richard

post-4218-0-34935200-1374500025_thumb.jpg

Edited by rtropp

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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I use a small razor saw. It looks just like the number 11 blade but it has saw teeth on it. They come from Micromark and are very thin. They come in two different numbers of teeth. These blades fit the standard handle just like the number 11 blades.

 

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=saw+blades

 

Russ

That's what I started using as well.  They make removal much easier and cleaner in my experience.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Richard - It is just my opinion, but I think a build log helps keep you going. You have a huge wealth of support. While it is true build logs get abandoned. I believe more get finished because of the log. I am sure you have seen all the praise and suggestions that come with each post. We all know the effort behind each step. Of all the groups I want to think well of my efforts, this one means the most to me.

 

I know I have said it before, and probably it was in this forum. But I have at least 3 kits that met a Viking burial. The cause of this was Frustration. Failure, and not knowing what to do or how to do it. This has changed because of 2 things. One is this forum and 2 is my local club. My skills have changed immensely because of this. I still have much to learn. Frankly I have only finished 1 real ship. But now I know I will finish my current project. Because I have a group of friends on this forum to turn to for support and guidance.

 

The best example of this I can offer is the current discussion on my Harvey log. I had what for me was a disastrous event. I had no idea how I would recover. I had put the model away and resisted the urge to give up and burn it. I confessed my fears at a local club meeting. And I will let you read my log to see the results. I am now excited to try the new solution and move forward. I also know now that I should have confessed my worries on this forum sooner.

 

I should also tell you of the wonderful friends I have met in person because of this forum. Not sure I would have had the experiences I have had without being encouraged to do a build log. Besides the subtle pressure to post something and show progress makes up for the brief time away from building it takes to be on this forum.

 

Ok, I know I have laid it on pretty thick and I hope you will forgive me for it. But it is all true. We have an incredibly impressive group here. I enjoy every min of the time I spend with these people both virtually and in person.

Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren

Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18

On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, 

 

Its a sailor's Life for me! :10_1_10:

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Richard,

 

I have to agree with everything Floyd has said about starting a build log. If you want to see how it's helped me, check out the re-build of the stern of my Victory - all done with the assistance and support of members of this forum. That gave me the confidence to try more "new" things, the latest being the scratch building of the first of the ship's boats. (Link in my signature block). So, don't be concerned that your work isn't "good enough" to post - think only of how much better you will become with the support and encouragement of your friends here at MSW.

 

Okay, getting off the soap box now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I often wonder how many build logs are just never completed.  I know I followed one that had a two year break.  The builder had something happen in life that made him put the kit down for a while.  I know I am lazy on the logs.  it takes time to properly capture our work and then turn that into a journal that others can follow.  I know I still have more work on my second to last build which was stretched out over several years due to a long break.  I was lazy and did not photograph the rigging and sail construction as much as I wanted.  I have since completed another model and never documented anything beyond hours spent on it since there were more than one logs on the same kit already here.

 

If you want feedback and help, the log is a big plus.  As a first time builder about 8 years ago, I would have loved to have known this site existed to use other logs as reference and to ask for clarification.

Shawn Carden
Fredericksburg, VA

Completed ships: 

MS kit of Armed Virginian Sloop of 1768 (2005)
Two Admiralty style Lexingtons based upon Clay Feldman's SIS Articles (2006-2011)
MS Kit Prince de Neufchatel (2006-2012)

LSS's Fair American (2013)

Harold Hahn's Hannah scratchbuilt, no instructions (2016 - ??)

In Progress: Just restarted after a 7 year break
Future planned: Washington 1776 Galley
 

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Rich,

 

Augie's take is correct that the laser setting was probably off in some way. One of the things to remember when releasing the parts is not to worry about the rest of the sheet. I've seen (and done it myself) that I was so intent on getting the part out that I was for some reason worried about sacrificing the waste material of the sheet. Cut some of that off If you can to isolate the parts as well. Not every piece can have the tabs (the connected part) running with the grain so the release is easy. Cutting cross grain on plywood is not easy.

 

The point being just get the part out clean - don't worry about the rest of the wood.

 

Sam

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING UNDER DEVELOPMENT 

 

 

 

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Good point Sam, perhaps, for the tough ones, instead of cutting out the part, I should cut away the waste until the part is clear.

Richard.

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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Floyd and Grant couldn't have said it any better!  the only thing I could add,  is the fact that everyone, at one time or another,  flies by the seat of their pants.......me.....I have no bottom left {very drafty}.  at the time I joined here....I was working on a plastic build.....I thought I would never fit in  {cripes,  I think Floyd was one of the first members I talked to here}.  I found out pretty quick that I had nothing to worry about.   I ain't the best.......but I have a lot of fun.......that's what it's all about :)

 

there are folks here that are sharper than their x-actors....take your time and have fun :)

 

I use the box cutter blades mostly......but if I'm in a bind,  I have a tool that I can fit one of those gillette blades.....super thin.  I'm also a saver of the parts panels......you never know when you need to trace out another part on the fly ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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