TEV Wahine 1965 by Richard Dunn - scale 1:35 - RADIO

[Kevin-the-lubber]

1 hour ago, Richard Dunn said:

These are not setup for printing in this image but these parts are done.

I have just put these on plate for display only

All of those items look straightforward apart from the chain. This is perfectly do-able, just twist it through 45 degrees so you can get all the necessary supports, and make sure there's sufficient clearance between the links to avoid bridging. I'd recommend downloading the Lychee slicer too. It's free and better than Chitubox when support placement is finicky as it has various options around support visibility. It also allows you to mirror support placement which saves time when you have regular shapes.

[Kevin]

wow sorry i missed this

[Richard Dunn]

Some progress shots
I started to fit the shell around the stern and mooring deck which when on properly starts to look like a ship!

I have to admit the stern is one of my favourite parts. the framing and bulwark stays in the mooring deck will all be built from 1mm ply and will stiffen the .5mm ply no end.

A shot side on from a bit back to get the size, this is a double garage by the way.

Once the plating around the lower level of aft superstructure is primed and on I can build the cafeterias, currently that is where the top lounge is drooping down on top of it, once this is done it will start looking better, mast bases will be on next week to.

Of course hull carving will make a difference but waiting on a certain person before I can do that and for my thrusters.

This shows the actual finished .5mm surfaces of the forward Superstructure and Deck, you can see the 12 inch waterway along the deck edge next to the mushroom vent holes.
The joint of the superstructure and deck has a 6mm strip of .5mm ply glued to the bottom, the deck bar as its called but its not on yet of course.

You might be able to see how the windows will be done here, the 2mm clear acrylic is glued flush into the 2mm substrate before plates are glued on, the .5mm plates are treated for the tin canning effect primed and glued on over the glazing and then the styrene windows are pre painted and glued into the hole in the .5mm plates and masked with liquid masking ready for painting the hull.

Anyone got any opinion of gorilla glue?

 

[KeithAug]

I don't know how it is possible to make such quick progress. Do you ever sleep?

[Richard Dunn]

1 hour ago, KeithAug said:

I don't know how it is possible to make such quick progress. Do you ever sleep?

Haha, Keith I work full time still  and work on this from 2.30- 630 every day and weekends, but the CNC makes quick work of the build as everything is pre-cut and fits.
Also being a furniture maker and guitar builder means I have the experience to work quickly and have the gear to.
It does not feel quick to me trust me, and don't forget to that you guys have not seen the 4 months sitting on the computer modelling all this, that was the real build.

Edited January 16, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Jim Lad]

As you say, Richard, she's really starting to look like a ship now.  beautiful work.

 

John

[Richard Dunn]

Well I think I have found the key to tin canning plating.
The results are very very good.
I have done tests with a number of fillers and I came to use selleys plastibond.....as usual, incidentally my father used this on his museum models to surface the bread and butter hulls he did for his models in 1967 and they have not cracked one bit to this day as they are still on display in the Otago Museum.

So make a scraper like this from thin steel, in this case high carbon flexible steel, I used diamond stone to file the shapes.

as you can see here 4 frames are in this scraper with the depth of the effect only .5-.6mm deep which is almost too much!!
I need to allow for sanding which will knock it down a bit and also the high build primer which will fill the hollows a bit, all that will lesson the effect, I want it to be subtle, and only visible in certain light.

 

Then apply...very quickly the filler to the pencil lines and drag the scraper along a clamped straight edge.
Note also the grain in the finnish ply is so fine it does not need filling. another reason it's worth the extra money.
Make sure you have a flat surface underneath like a tile and be very careful to mix the filler clean, any crap in it will cause drag marks.

the result is this.

because the plasti-bond is greenish you can see the effect works and the taper off in shape here.

Once dry sand and randomise how heavily from frame to frame and round some ridge lines more than other and the result is what you see here..................,when the paint is dry I will show you.
Time taken per plate  5 mins

 

Edited January 18, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

OK so this was too heavy handed and I need to halve the depth of the effect.

[Richard Dunn]

Ok so I snapped a few shots of one of the plates while the primer was wet so you can see the effect.

here you can see some of the acrylic glazing glued in with gorilla glue, film still in place

As I said its subtle and understated

 

 

 

[Jim Lad]

That looks good, Richard.  Nothing too pronounced.

 

John

[Richard Dunn]

Thanks, yeah you can see the actual effect here and on the first one its very apparent because the sun is directly in front of ship so the light highlights the extent of it, I was not comfortable making it as pronounced as it should be and do not want to risk getting marked down in competition for it making the model ugly.

Edited January 27, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[yvesvidal]

8 hours ago, Richard Dunn said:

Thanks, yeah you can see the actual effect here and on the first one its very apparent because the sun is directly in front of ship so the light highlights the extent of it, I was not comfortable making it as pronounced as it should be and do not want to risk getting marked down in competition for it making the model ugly.

 

Those judges can be silly sometimes and confuse weathering and actual rendering with sloppiness.

 

Yves

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Wow, I don't think I've ever seen any structure with that much welding distortion! I think you're right to knock that back a bit.

[Richard Dunn]

8 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Wow, I don't think I've ever seen any structure with that much welding distortion! I think you're right to knock that back a bit.

Yeah but keep in mind this is the 60's and tech was not as good as it is now....I guess
but lots of old ships have this when framed in this way (transversely), when you look at the way modern ships are framed, which is longitudinally the spaces unsupported are much smaller and form a grid of sharp peaks, a whole different look.
But yeah she was bad for it and that's why I hope you can see why the model has to have this detail.

I know lots of people are horrified I am but if its one right I think it will look awesome, in some light..that's the key. it needs to be seen in some light and not others and will be hard to see on the white and most pronounced on the dark bronze green hull/
Although its a working model I will be doing the whole hull to not just above the waterline, having the framing plan for every prefab and shell expansion it can be done exactly.
Like this

but the older ones are quite lumpy due to the bigger unsupported area, as seen here on Wahine's side panels and bow.

 

 

Edited January 27, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Things of beauty nonetheless. Those deck plates in the second photo - that was what I was talking about many posts back. 

[bricklayer]

The carriage underneath the bow section reminds me of a millipede whose legs are replaced by wheels.

 

[Richard Dunn]

Been busy doing landscaping, and I might add ripped off to the tune of 15 grand in the process...anyway I have some movement in the bow and stern thrusters being made by Simon Higgins of Prop Shop in the UK.
Very Verry happy chappy.
they are true to scale of the real thing by the way

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Roger Pellett]

Oil canning is affected by craftsmanship.  Some of the old World War II era American welded ships were heavily oil canned.  Heat control and weld bead sequence are important.

 

Roger

[Richard Dunn]

Well I have finally been able to step away from our major landscaping work and start back on model.
The thrusters are on their way from UK and I need to get the hull carved so for last 2 days that's what I have been doing.
It's been 15 years since I did some serious carving with chisels and planes and boy oh boy are my hands feeling it, all the callouses are gone and I have nothing but blisters to show for it.

Carving shown within the final 1mm tolerance ready for aggressive sanding.

 

Edited April 24, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Looks like you’ll be back to having tradesman’s hands by the time you’ve got that finished Richard, that’s one big hull.  But welcome back.

 

I never understood tradespeople that ripped people off, but there are plenty of them out there.

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

That's looking awesome!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

[Richard Dunn]

Hoping someone can point me right direction, I need a pump  that can suck water in and spit it out based on a switch, that runs off 12v and is not submerged, but has pipes in and out, what am I looking for for this?
This is for ballast.
Only dealing with 10 L max

 

[Ian_Grant]

Something along the lines of this??

 

https://www.amazon.ca/SAILFLO-Pressure-Diaphragm-Caravan-Marine/dp/B0714BYP4N/ref=asc_df_B0714BYP4N/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292994045641&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=951410644785312914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000682&hvtargid=pla-573486198452&th=1

[Richard Dunn]

Exactly like that, thank you, so the term was diaphragm pump, now I will find a smaller version, thankyou!.

[Richard Dunn]

Hull roughed out and 60% of one side sanded and filled ready for glass.

Template accuracy. Actual templates are cut on CNC from plans

 

Edited April 25, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Ian_Grant]

Out of interest, what is the final thickness for the lower hull? I guess you are leaving the inside "stepped"? 

[Richard Dunn]

Ian I have thought long and hard about the benefits of carving the inside vs leaving it stepped, I have come to the decision to leave it stepped as long as its light enough to turn and work on my own, currently I can lift one end of the hull with one finger and lift and turn it with ease, I think it's about 8-9kgs.

The thickness does not change if carved or not but to answer your question, the overlap of the planks is 16mm with the  bottom flatter areas about 25mm but its not constant as it changes gradually  (see image 16 & 17 on page one you can see the overlap marked on patterns).

The thinnest part is at the other edge of the very bottom plank due to the rise of floor, the bottom plank is only 11mm thick at edge and 18.7mm full thickness at keel so the solution is to attach beams to the inside of the bottom at the level of the second plank , this will counter any tendancy for the flat of bottom to warp or cup over the midship portion of the model as well as provide extra strength for the batteries etc to sit on I may glass the bottom inside as well.

I really wish I had thought of this technique of using multiple parts for each layer years ago, the use of timber is so efficient and so little wood was needed to make this, it's far more efficient than the Kirby technique which still relies on full length planks.
if I had had to get planks for this hull full length and full half breadth the timber, even pine was going to cost about $2000 as the wide boards are so expensive and needed to be dressed externally by a joiner as I don't have the machinery to go that wide.
This was built with standard dressed timber from Bunnings.

Incidentally the whole carved part is underwater except top 20mm and sheer of course but by looking at this mass and you can see the displaced weight of 195kgs hence pumping ballast trim tanks.

Edited April 25, 2022 by Richard Dunn

[Ian_Grant]

Thanks for your detailed answer. One reason I asked was because I remember the hassle of trying to plane & sand the concave interior of a cedar strip canoe I made years ago 😬

[Richard Dunn]

If I did and in areas where I might need to around lateral thrusters I use a carving gouge and a guitar makers palm plane used for carving violins etc, in fact I used that to do most of hull as it really hacks away the wood.
Finished up with disc sander on a grinder.

[KeithAug]

An impressive piece of lumberjacking😁