Silk span

[Dziadeczek]

I have done some search on the silk span for sails. On this forum and elsewhere. Also bought a brochure by D. Antscherl. I am thinking about using this material for my sails.

What grade (thickness) should I use? Light, medium or heavy?

The scale of my model is 1:48.

[allanyed]

Dziadeczek

If you find a good source that offers more than one grade please post the link.  I would like to experiment with different thicknesses as well.  I have only had one thickness and I don't know if it is the thickest or thinnest.   Regardless of what you wind up using, even the thickest span will be closer to scale to any cloth that exists for 1:48 or smaller. 

Allan 

 

[wefalck]

I seem to remember from my boyhood days when I was flicking through model suppliers catalogues that there were two weights of silk fabric and 'Japan' paper for covering airplane models.

 

Another option (that I have not yet tried out myself) is serigraphy cloth that comes in many different weights/thread counts. You can get it on ebay. 

[Roger Pellett]

When I rigged my 1:32 scale longboat (photos on gallery) I decided to include furled sails.  The guy at the hobby shop asked if I wanted “Light” or the heavier grade. I picked light and was happy with the results.  I have no idea how to describe the difference in grades quantitatively.

[druxey]

Well, if you can get different weights of SilkSpan, you could even imitate the different weights of canvas used for various sails.

[hollowneck]

I've used the lightest weight silkspan for my sails as I laminate two layers of silkspan to both sides of normal office bond paper; this technique I use for set sails only, not furled. Even with the three layers, this still allows nice translucency which I believe is important. This also emphasizes the various tablings and linings of large sails with ambient lighting of all kinds. Another benefit of the thinnest silkspan is that after it's glued to the bond paper (diluted white glue) it "shrivels" slightly as it dries; this imparts a nice fabric texture that subtly simulates canvas.

Photo example is attached. This is a close-up of my HMS Swan, rigged and sails fashioned with guidance from druxey's Swan Class, Vol IV book.

9 minutes ago, druxey said:

Well, if you can get different weights of SilkSpan, you could even imitate the different weights of canvas used for various sails.

Never tried this, but it makes perfect sense to me!

 

Ron

[Bob Cleek]

Wow! Those are some fantastic looking sails, Ron.

 

Did you show how you accomplished this in a build log? I'm interested in picking up some tips on this technique.

[hollowneck]

4 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Wow! Those are some fantastic looking sails, Ron.

 

Did you show how you accomplished this in a build log? I'm interested in picking up some tips on this technique.

 

Bob, thank you. I haven't demonstrated my technique on a Build Log here, however I did an in-person demo a couple years ago at the annual Joint Clubs Northeast Ship Modeler's Show. Here is a link to a video that was made of my demo: https://www.philadelphiashipmodelsociety.com/presentations/

 

I've basically created an amalgam of various techniques of others plus a couple new processes that I conceived. There aren't that many different ways to create realistic-looking set sails; virtually all typically involve making them from either paper or the material, silkspan - or both (in my case). Creating set sails was a challenge that I set myself to somehow solve and come up with ways to make sails look like they're actually working: e.g.; "blowing (billowing) in the wind" so-to-speak.

 

The photo here shows me doing a little maintenance on a nave model I built for a church in New York: my model, HMS Godspeed, is a four-masted schooner with 17 sails if I recall. These sails had only a slight set to them as all the sails are lateen, fore-to-aft rigged typical of these ships. It was after this build that I experimented and figured out how to make set sails on square-rigged ships look like they were doing the work!

 

Ron

 

Edited November 24, 2021 by hollowneck

[Bob Cleek]

Thanks a million, Ron. That was very helpful.

[xodar461]

I am using silkspan for my current build of the Revenge.  I got it from a company called SIG.  it is offered in light, medium and heavy. 

Here is the link:

 

https://sigmfg.com/products/sig-silkspan-tissue

 

Here is a photo from my build log.  I am trying to simulate sails partially drawn up as if the ship was at anchor but not completely furled like they might be if the ship was in port.

 

 

Jeff

Edited November 24, 2021 by xodar461

[Worldway]

As an FYI, I have had an order in with Sig Mfg which has been backordered for over 2 months.  I have been in contact with them and am told that it's because of boats unable to unload.  As of November 17th they were still waiting for the shipment.  I don't have a definitive date yet but have asked them to keep it on backorder as I'm in no immediate rush.

 

I should mention that they have been fantastic to deal with and have replied to me promptly and courteously.  

[hollowneck]

5 hours ago, xodar461 said:

I am using silkspan for my current build of the Revenge.  I got it from a company called SIG.  it is offered in light, medium and heavy. 

Here is the link:

 

https://sigmfg.com/products/sig-silkspan-tissue

 

Here is a photo from my build log.  I am trying to simulate sails partially drawn up as if the ship was at anchor but not completely furled like they might be if the ship was in port.

 

 

Jeff

I also get my silkspan from SIG, although I have also bought some from Bluejacket Shipcrafters in the past. I've ordered different weights from SIG, but have mainly worked with the lightest weight material. I'm not surprised SIG's inventory is on a slow boat. I believe it's manufactured in Japan, but it's possible that the latest manufacturing has shifted to China.

 

I like your treatment showing a partially furled sail, great job!

Ron

[hollowneck]

23 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

Thanks a million, Ron. That was very helpful.

 

You are welcome, Bob - I'm pleased that you found my techniques helpful.

Ron