HMB ENDEAVOUR by Peter6172 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1/65

[Peter6172]

On 4/13/2022 at 11:49 AM, BANYAN said:

The heads may have been painted anyway Peter, that was my choice anyway :).  You're making good progress and I like that 'brown stuff' bottom..

 

cheers

 

Pat

Thanks Pat.  I used walnut filler sanded back then walnut stain.  I'm not particularly happy with my cast heads colouring so I too may end up painting them.  The issue is what colour: red? 

[Peter6172]

Finally started some rigging.... well the steering anyway now that the rudder is in using 3mm SB, 3mm wire for deck rings and iron hooks and 0.5mm Ropes of Scale.  Still have to secure each end to the iron rings.

I did modify the ships wheel structure to more closely represent the original.  

I also fitted the iron end of the tiller with an iron clamp on the end of the tiller rather than rope lashing per the instructions.

The rear platform has been fitted, stained and then rubbed back to look like its worn from use.  Still have the iron rings and rope railing to fit.

Edited April 14, 2022 by Peter6172

[BANYAN]

2 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

Thanks Pat.  I used walnut filler sanded back then walnut stain.  I'm not particularly happy with my cast heads colouring so I too may end up painting them.  The issue is what colour: red? 

Hi Peter, that's what I went with.  Some ships crews may have painted the head part a little more ornately, but I just went for plain red ochre for the windlass stands and the heads.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Peter6172]

One of the items missing in the Artesania kit are the Bumpkins.   

I soaked and bent some 3mm dowel (after tapering and turning stepped end).  It was difficult as the dowel kept snapping even after prolonged soaking in boiling hot water, however persistence paid off.  The stand into which the Bumpkins mount on the centreline was made from 3mm brass tube and flat brass bent and mounted onto a 5mm x 4mm base.  I have 5 holes to drill in the face of the brass to fit brass rod which secure the "iron" to the "wood" then make up two more pins to hold the base to the deck.

 

[Peter6172]

Well, after an Easter long weekend with a cold (negative RAT results) I have managed to get from stern to midships with the deck blocks and rings.  I have attached thread to all rings and blocks as well as sheaves in the bitt pins to make it easier to run rigging through them when the time comes.

Still have to attach cleats to transom, bulwark etc before I start mounting the bumpkins, catheads and bowsprit.

 

[Peter6172]

Handrails on and holes filled ready for sanding.  Have made some preliminary progress with the transom; some cleaning up to do.  I have also mounted the channels and started on making up the deadeyes; 24 down, 22 more to 'wire up' before assembling and fitting to the channels.

The boom has been fitted and 'bolted" in place under the foremost bitts.  The catheads have also been installed as have the bumpkins.  You may note that the ships bell has not yet been fitted but as its a swinging bell I did not want to to go astray.  Some hatch covers have been installed on the STBD side too.

Edited April 27, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Well its time for rigging the ship so first things first, the bowsprit.

 

I am following the rigging sequence per Biddlecombe's "the art of rigging".  The inner and outer gammoning, Bobstay collar, both Bowsprit shroud collars and both Fore stay collars have been installed as have the bobstay, and shrouds.   I have also fitted the Bumpkin stays and my first thimble (for the Fore topgallant stay)

I will need to redo the outer gammoning as I only have 6 turns instead of the correct 8 (miscounted during install), and I have a further lashing to do on the bowsprit should deadeye.

 

QUESTION:  Where thimbles brass or iron?

[Peter6172]

Getting into the Shrouds on the Foremast.  I'm not glueing the mast in place so its position and straightness will be down to the rigging.  One thing I have noted using ropes of scale is that when I tension the shrouds, they twist.  I am putting about 5mm of tension into the Shrouds. I will have to go through glueing the deadeyes straight in the channels to remedy. The first four pairs are in with after installing a pair of Burton Pennants; one more pair each side before heading to the Fore and Aft Stays. 

I have also temporarily fitted the Jackstaff and the Jib Boom Traveller.

Edited May 5, 2022 by Peter6172

[BANYAN]

You're making some significant progress Peter.  The twisting of the deadeyes may be related to the way you reave them - have you done them the recommended way (as in the real ships)?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Peter6172]

7 hours ago, BANYAN said:

You're making some significant progress Peter.  The twisting of the deadeyes may be related to the way you reave them - have you done them the recommended way (as in the real ships)?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Pat,  I have set all the lower deadeyes in the channels and chained then down to the hull.  The shroud deadeyes are then caught in the shroud, the first lashing across the looped shroud, then two lashings up the shroud.  The holes in the deadeyes are lined up and then CA to fix the deadeyes in the right orientation.  I then lash the deadeyes together.

The twist I refer too is represented in the second shroud of the 1st pair where there is rotation toward the bow.

Please note that the odd colouring of the lower deadeyes is a result of dipping the deadeye and chains in brass black solution.  I plan going over the deadeyes and lashings with a black wash anyway....

Edited May 6, 2022 by Peter6172

[BANYAN]

Hi Peter, that looks pretty good.  Please note the lay of the rope for the shrouds may also affect the amount of twist.  Most shrouds of this era were cable laid (left hand).  I was referring to the sequence or method you actually put the lanyards through the deadeyes; from your response I am still not sure you understood my comment.  Please ignore/forgive any unintended 'motherhood' in the following if you did understand.

 

A good example can be found here in the forums at post #20 in the following link:

Basically from forward to aft and not crossing (I note yours do not cross so may not be the cause, so it may be twist imparted from the shrouds themselves).  Another helpful diagram is provided on the  Suburban Ship Modeller website.

 

Hope these clarify, cheers.

 

Pat

 

 

Edited May 7, 2022 by BANYAN

[Peter6172]

Have made further progress this weekend.  The Foremast Main and Preventer stays are installed after completing the 5th and 6th pair of shrouds.  I also installed the final 10 deck fittings in the foredeck for running rigging.

I think tomorrow will see the main mast channel deadeyes installed but noting its Mothers Day in Australia, I may have other duties to perform....

[Peter6172]

Having completed the shrouds and forward stays on the Fore mast, I have moved onto the main mast.  It was a little loose in its hole so I have had to wedge it before starting the shrouds.  Even dredging it, I had to temporarily fit the Main stay to stop the mast from being dragged too far aft when tensioning the third and forth shroud pairs.  I have also fitted the topmasts as the shrouds position around the mast top can affect fit (again only temporary at present).

[Peter6172]

I have worked out how to stop the twist when fitting the lanyards to the shrouds.  Fit the lanyard through the top deadeye, then throughs the corresponding hole in the channel deadeye, then pull tight.  This will draw the twist out of the shroud.  Hold the shroud in this position and put the lanyard back trhought the top hole in the shroud deadeye.  While the deadeye may rotate back when pressure is released, the deadeye is in the correct position once tension is reapplied.

[Peter6172]

Fore and Main Masts 'fitted' with shrouds and forestays.  Mizzen in place but I am waiting for my Ropes of Scale 0.6/0.7/0.8mm order to get the mizzen shrouds and stays done.  Meanwhile I am continuing progress on the cannons and the yards.  Spritsail yards are complete awaiting painting as are the Foremast yards.  

[Peter6172]

Just finished turning u the yards and the topgallant mast for the main.  The main yard for the foremast was made following the Artesania instructions (two piece: turned section and the hexagonal centre slid on).  This time I went u a size of dowel, made the hexagonal section then turned down the rest in the mini lathe.  I did the same for the topgallant mast filing the square base and hexagonal section before turning down.

There is still some cleaning up to do and I need to turn the studdingsail booms to shape as well.

All that left is the Mizzen topmast, gaff and the other various studdingsail booms and then I can put the lathe away till the next ship project.

 

[Peter6172]

Another kit compromise overcome with some scratch building.   The yoke on the gaff was a 2mm laser cut piece with barrel rope holes in the wrong plane.  It also didn't account for the angle of the gaff nor its correct thickness so using the laser cut piece as a pattern I made up 7mm of kit ply then sanded back to shape before sanding in the angle.  I also cut a V and sanded the gaff to a point for the joint.  Still some fine sanding to go and some rings to fit but I'm happy with the handiwork

 

Edited May 22, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

All the main timber work is now made; a couple of studdingsail booms and spare spars/yards to go on the rack still to be made.

Now time to start pre-rigging the yards with the various blocks, fitting the rest of the standing rigging and getting the yards slung before moving onto the running rigging.

 

[Peter6172]

Foremast Lower yard rigged.  Took a good 9 hours for the 20 blocks plus serving of stirrups and pendants.I haven't rigged the clew-garnet and yard block yet.  Disregard the red coloured coding.  It was my original estimate of block size in mm: most of the 3mm blocks were upsized to 4mm. 

[Peter6172]

Well that was a busy long weekend.  I managed to fit the Futtock Stave, Futtock Shrouds and the Catharpins on the Foremast.  Thought the lacing of the Carthapins would send me batty but I managed in the end. I've tried to keep everything as close to scale using Ropes of Scale rope and 0.08mm Aurifil 1130 thread.  The Ratlines will be 0.12mm Guttermann CA02776 thread eyed and lashed at each end with clove hitched in between.

Edited May 31, 2022 by Peter6172

[Peter6172]

Interesting question:  The Marquardt drawing of the main and fore course yards show parrel beads in use, however, noting the lower mast arrangements this would very unlikely be the case.  I also note the replica Endeavour also does not appear to employ parrel beads on the fore and main course yards.  Is Marquardt drawing correct or is my assumption and the arrangement on the Endeavour replica correct?

Edited June 18, 2022 by Peter6172

[allanyed]

Peter,

This may not apply to a collier like the Earl of Pembroke, but according to The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War by Lees, page 66, parrel rigging on the lower yards was superseded by truss pendants by about 1760.  As Earl of Pembroke was launched in 1764 and acquired and renamed Endeavour in 1768, if she followed the RN methods she would never have had parrels on the lower yards.  Marquardt's expertise was used in the construction of the replica

so it seems odd they did not use parrels but he shows them in his book.  Obviously Marquardt and Lees did a LOT of research on rigging in general so choose your poison on this one. 

Allan

[shipaholic]

I don’t think there should be parrels on the lower yards according to all my references. Just truss pendants during the Endeavour era

Edited June 18, 2022 by shipaholic

[allanyed]

7 hours ago, shipaholic said:

I don’t think there should be parrels on the lower yards according to all my references. Just truss pendants during the Endeavour era

Shipaholic

I agree based on a few sources mentioned above.  Hopefully you have others you can share.  The truss pendants replaced parrels on the lower yards and were around much longer than in the Endeavour era, lasting from 1760 to 1850.  The rope pendants did change in that they rove downwards from 1760-1810 then upwards to blocks in the trestle trees from 1810 to 1850 and finally replaced with chain pendants from about 1850 on. 

Allan

[Peter6172]

Some limited rigging progress while I await the arrival of my next small batch of rigging from Ropes of Scale.

Fore course yard lifted on Jeers with the spritsail and spritsail topsail yard are rigged.  I did the Fore course crowsfeet (took a lot more than the 120mm they suggested in the instructions) and the rigging so far is being finished with a 'cleat' hitch to secure before looping, tying and hanging the leftover without glue. 

[BenD]

Your rigging is turning out well! I can see a few spots where you have started using my Polyester ropes, They have sharper detail and tend to be more photogenic. Looking foreword to more.

 

I'll be mailing you next order tomorrow. Shipping to australia has been really slow, So you should expect to wait over two weeks.  

[Peter6172]

10 hours ago, BenD said:

Your rigging is turning out well! I can see a few spots where you have started using my Polyester ropes, They have sharper detail and tend to be more photogenic. Looking foreword to more.

 

I'll be mailing you next order tomorrow. Shipping to australia has been really slow, So you should expect to wait over two weeks.  

Its all your rope....thought I had only ordered poly from you?

[BenD]

2 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

Its all your rope....thought I had only ordered poly from you?

Your first orders were Cotton rope (Tan tag) and the others after were polyester (Grey tag). You should be fine though, Black is black and the other colors I have are pretty close to each other.

 

[Peter6172]

2 hours ago, BenD said:

Your first orders were Cotton rope (Tan tag) and the others after were polyester (Grey tag). You should be fine though, Black is black and the other colors I have are pretty close to each other.

 

Well I'll be buggered.  Obviously didn't look very closely at the time.    They are all good ropes.  I don't have to glue anything down; just a cleat hitch then loop the excess and hand on the cleat or belaying pin.

[Peter6172]

Interesting subject on ENDEAVOUR's boats when Cook landed at Botany Bay.  Most of the  contemporary paintings depicting the landing show the pinnacle and launch with plain varnished wood finish and not the white, blue and gold renditions of the Artesania kit.  The only image that depicts a white hull on the pinnacle but varnished wood on the launch is the Phillips Fox painting which was painted in 1902 so not particularly contemporary.

So to paint or to varnish the boats?