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Posted

Scott,

 

Scott, I found the paint colors for the Niagara on the Model Expo site: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2240MS

Set of eleven 1 oz. bottles of Model Shipways paint:
2 each/MS4839 Primer, MS4830 Hull/Spar Black, MS4801 Bulwarks Dark Green; 1 each/MS4831 White, MS4821 Deck House Light Buff, MS4802 Bulwarks/Gun Carriage Red, MS4829 Hull Yellow Ochre, MS4828 Iron/Cannon Black.

 

The regular cost is $54 but a sale price may cut that to almost half buy ordering them individual instead of the kit order. 

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

I thought maybe there's some benefit in sharing how I'm preparing the deck planks and gluing them in place, so here goes... 

Keep in mind I'm very much a novice at this (2nd build) and I'm sure there are many other ways to accomplish this task. This may be a better "don't do it this way"   :)   :)   :)

Once I have a piece of wood selected, I (try) to do the following:

  • I inspect both sides of the wood to pick which side looks best. Some wood has blemishes that I like to place on the down side.

  • Lightly sand all four sides of the planks

  • Next, I make pencil hash marks on the down side and sometimes when I think it's needed also mark each end with an “F” for fwd and “A” for aft.

  • Now it's time to trim the plank to fit and shape. First I shape the end that is the most complex in shape and make sure it fits snug and tight (more on this below). I start with this end first in case I need to make it several times. Next, I trim the length to fit and then shape the remaining end.

  • Next, I bevel the inside lower edge that mates up to the already installed plank/edge. The bevel helps the plank fit up snug against the installed plank, especially if there is a little dried glue that seeped out and dried when the previous plank was installed.

  • I then insect the surface where the plank will be installed. I look for uneven surfaces, globs of dried glue etc. and correct any noted issues as best I can.

  • A trial fit is next, confirming the plank fits well or at least as well as I can get it.

  • Now it's time to apply the pre-stain followed by the stain.

  • Once the stain is dry, I use a pencil to color the fwd, aft ends and one side of the plank to simulate a caulk line. This has not turned out as well as I hoped for, but for the first time, I can live with it. It may clean up later if I decide to sand the deck.

  • Gluing the plank in place without a false deck is a bit of a challenge for me. I first had to decide where to lay the first plank, which will then determine how all remaining planks will mount, kinda like laying floor tile. I used the center keep as a starting place due to it being (supposedly) centered from left to right and due to two planks being the same width as the keel which was a great reference in keeping the first two planks very straight. I'll cut in the mast holes later. For the time being (always subject to change), I'm installing the deck features on top of the deck planks.

  • I used both Titebond and CA when mounting the planks. I used a dental probe to apply small amounts of white glue on the edge of the installed plank, other than at the bulkhead locations. Once the Titebond was in place I place CA glue on each bulkhead and the fwd/aft edges of the plank. The CA glue dries quickly and helps hold the plank in place white the Titbond dries. I use wedges when possible to hold the plank in place.

  • Time to move on to the next plank.

 

The planking became more difficult for me once the aft end shape went from being squared off to a more complex shape the the fwd end. The last four pictures show how I determine where to mark and cut the wood to get the correct edge angle and a reasonably decent fit. I just noticed the dirt and dust in the photos, next time a cleaning is in order before pictures.

post-277-0-26573000-1405797850_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-72233100-1405797887_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-17234000-1405797914_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-08138200-1405797940_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-71509000-1405797941_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-89775300-1405797942_thumb.jpg

post-277-0-15788100-1405797944_thumb.jpg

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

I love the last 4 pics, something to look forward to. Thanks a he** of a lot.

 

Which way did you bevel the planks? If I understand correctly you pencilled in the caulk on top of the seams between planks after installation? If the bevel is to the inside, top narrower than the bottom, I might try a pencil on the edge of the planks where the bevel is. If I've learned anything from reading these logs, I'll test it first:)

 

What kind of stain did you use?

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

Posted

I beveled the lower corner that mates against the last installed plank, not the side, only the corner. I pencil color the side that mates against the last installed plank. I use minwax golden oak, but I dilute it 50% so it's not too dark.

 

If the above does not make sense to you, let me know and I'll post some photos with close ups.

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

I use a very similar process on my first deck, Larry, including the slight bevel.  On my latest one I'm using a 'harder' pencil (4H as opposed to 2) and am only putting it on one side and the 2 ends of each plank.  This has helped me in eliminating what I call 'smuding' (assuming that's a word).

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Hi Augie

 

I think I'm using too soft a pencil. There's no number (golf course pencil) but I suspect its a number two. I will try to clean up the smuding (I like your word... lol) with some light sanding. Your Confederacy looks amazing!!

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted (edited)

lb,

 

I see on your planking tutorial you used pencil but it seems you are not quite satisfied.  Probably too late to tell you my idea now but I will anyways for any future builds of yours.  I used a sharpie for my caulk lines on my Rattlesnake.  Just run the edge of the sharpie down the edge of the plank, making sure that if you are going fall off the edge that you sweep the sharpie to the side that would be the bottom of the plank.  The sharpie soaks in ever so slightly and even after sanding the top of my deck to smoothness the sharpie caulk line stayed.  This is my forecastle after I stained it.

 

post-8513-0-26654600-1405874857_thumb.jpg

Edited by scott larkins
Posted

Hi Scott,

Thanks for sharing. I may give that a try on another build. I think I may have been using too heavy a line. I backed off a bit and so far it's been an improvement. I need to do some trial runs on whichever method I choose for my next build.

BTY, your caulk lines look very good!

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

Thanks LB.  It's my first build so it's trial and error for me too.  I'm really getting ready to build the Niagara when I get done with this build.  Some of the things from the snake will transfer, which is good, but after reviewing the plans and instructions, I will still have more to learn.

Posted (edited)

Larry:

Your model is coming along well. The paint colors are very good. Your deck looks good so far, but I see a couple of things that you might consider and I hope you will welcome a few hints.

 

First, laying the deck planking in single strips over the entire length is going to be problematic. It is VERY difficult to get a good fit at both ends. You are having trouble at the stern because of using single strips. It would be better to plank in scale lengths and get both the end joints done first and work your way back to the middle. Fitting this way will yield much better results.

 

Second, applying the stain before the plank is laid may be a problem. I understand why you are doing it, but a laid deck such as this will usually require sanding or more properly scraping after it is laid to get a really smooth surface upon which to apply finish. A clear finish might be a better choice to apply to the bare planks after the deck is planked.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Russ

Edited by russ
Posted

Hello, Larry,  planking is looking good.

 

Good to see everyone back.  I am working on my Cutty Sark for the moment, so please don't hate me..

Posted

Your welcome Scott.

 

Hi Russ, I always appreciate advice - thanks. I have two short boards I simply missed when gluing them down and did not have the heart to rip them out. If I cannot fix it with filler I suspect there will be a few coiled ropes in that area. :) I intentionally opted for full length planks on this build. I thought the .095" wide planks would turn out nicer going single strips even though it's not historically correct. I also prefer this look over the tapered planks at this scale.

 

Hi Bob, thanks for looking in. I bet the Cutty is a nice change of pace. I came close several times to starting my Longboat, but I'm trying to wait until the Niagara is complete.

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

planking looks very nice Larry :) I like scale planking as well....better control, and the butt joints gives the deck more detail. pre staining can be good, you know........sanded after the deck is laid, will tend to appear bleached, with grain definition. a light staining later will even it back up if you desire. keep up the good work ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

Hi Popeye,

It's good to hear from you and other MSW friends. Thanks for looking in and for advice as well as compliments. I'll probably do a light sanding after the deck is completed, followed by restraining.

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

Okay, Larry. I'm ready to start planking the hull. Several questions:

I've been studying "Simple hull planking techniques for beginners". By kelvin12. (THAT'S cold!!!) It uses the term "battens". Is this the same as a strake?

 

What is the water line? Is this just where the color of the hull differs?

 

What is its importance?

 

How do I know where it belongs?

 

Nice work! I've been working on mine for 6 months now. I think I reworked the sweeps and ports a half dozen time before I figured out the plans didn't match the build.

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

Posted (edited)

Sorry-getting on a plane in a few minutes and will be on the road for a while. If no one answers your questions, I will try but it will have to wait until after I return. My brother in law passed away and we need to help his mother adjust. Take care.

Edited by lb0190

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

sorry to hear this as well Larry :(

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

Posted

My condolences as well.

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

Posted

Good god y'all. Working out how to do the planking on my Niagara, I've come to appreciate what the fantastic job you've done, Larry! :cheers:

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

Posted (edited)

If I lay the battens per the plans I get the image shown where the battens are not crossed. If I allow them to lay naturally, I get the image showing them crossed. I used a digital calliper from the plans to masking tape, then to the hull...

 

I also tried measuring the width of the planks between the strakes from the plan and adding them up placing them all across the hull with the same result. Naturally the same results.

 

For giggles and grins, I even tried a cloth tape from my wife's sewing kits. THAT was worse:) sup wit dat?

 

The planks are so narrow I don't thin I'll get any clinker effect, but it sure is a no-no from everything I've read.

 

Anyone? Even if it's not Larry that answers?

post-10291-0-56593400-1406751615_thumb.jpg

post-10291-0-35762900-1406751721_thumb.jpg

Edited by JustBlowinInTheWind

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

Posted

Thank you everyone for your condolences . We're heading home today....

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

Hi Larry

It is great to see you back. I missed your return, went under my radar. Your Niagara is really hitting the straps now - looking good, very good. I'm sorry to hear about the loss in your family - take care and I, for one, look forward to hearing of happier times at your workbench.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - 

On Hold - HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Posted

Thanks Alistair. We returned home Saturday and today I installed the last port side deck plank - I'm 50% complete. I now have to decide if I scrape or sand the deck before or after I install the starboard side deck planks. Any advice from the more experienced builders out there???

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

My thought is that I wouldn't scrape or sand any area of deck until the entire deck planking is complete. Doing one area first and then adding more makes the process much more difficult to keep even. You end up with the scraped planks being lower than the newly added ones and then can tend to overwork the line of that step to smooth it out.

Cheers

Alistair

 

Current Build - 

On Hold - HMS Fly by aliluke - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64

Previous Build  - Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways

Previous Build - Dutch Whaler by Sergal (hull only, no log)

 

Posted

Hi Larry

I am with Alistair

Wait until the  entire deck planking is complete

 

Regards

Ken

Under construction  US Brig Niagara

 

Completed  HMB Endeavour - Caldercraft

Posted

Thank you gentlemen, I'll wait.

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

Posted

Hi Bob, thank you for your concern and friendship, life can be tough at times but friends certainly help with the recovery. Today I started back on laying deck planks. Once I have a few of the starboard planks in place I'll cut open the mast mount holes. 

Regards,

Larry

----------------------------------------------------

Current Build

US Brig Niagara

Completed Builds

George W Washburn - 1890 Tugboat

Future Builds

18th Century Longboat by MS

HM Cutter Cheerful

Wappen Von Hamburg by Corel

 

If your not making mistakes, your not challenging yourself – my life has been full of challenges :)

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