USS Missouri by BarrettM82 - Revell - 1:535 - PLASTIC - first build

[BarrettM82]

Starting my first ever ship build on the much maligned Revell 1/535 kit. Ever since visiting the Missouri 10 years ago, I wanted to have a physical memory of the visit. The lack of detail on the kit is well commented on, so I'm looking at using my visit memories and photos to bring this early plastic model up a little bit in terms of finish.

 

Why the Revell kit? when it gets hammered on the forums? Well, the main reason if honest, is that it will fit with a current F1 LED lit display cabinet and I will be attempting to set it in an ocean diorama. So the 1/535 suits this purpose and I don't care that the underwater part of the hull is shaped like a bath tub. The Tamiya and Trumpeter kits of much higher detail but bigger scale would be too big to fit in the case... and finally,  I feel like a challenge! which I may regret over time!

 

To achieve this I'm trying the following:

 

• Getting PE at 1/500 from Toms model works
• Redoing all the "crucifix" 50 cals to PE
• Adding detail in the hull to reflect raised panel lines and rivets
• Real chain on anchors, not the gator teeth casting that's there at the mo, with rebored anchor 
• Adding PE to superstructure and creating detail regarding portholes / deck items
• New radar and catapult PE items
• Added railing 
• Reboring Smoke Stacks to have grill structures
• Reboring mooring chain cavity at the bow end

 

Before starting properly, I'm wondering if anyone with ship building experience has any thoughts on whether this is a fool's errand or achievable? I've done a good bit of car and plane modelling but never ships.

 

Also, the real parts that has me stumped are the double bofors guns. The moulds are off the chart bad , looking like legs sticking out of a box. 

 

Considering scratch building and then doing a cast resin to replicate.. don't want to blow the budget on 3d printing and there's nothing commercially available in that scale. So any pointers there would be appreciated.

 

Anyway wish me luck and nice to join the community here.

 

 

 

[BarrettM82]

Here's the double Bofors... wow , where do you go from here?

 

 

[BarrettM82]

First port of call is to fix the poor fit at the bow end by using styrene pieces to push the bow out slightly and make flush with deck section

[ccoyle]

"Much malighned"? Yes, and deservedly so, but hey -- I built the box-scale USS New Jersey back in the day, so I'm game for a trip down memory lane. "Fool's errand"? Who's to say? That depends on your skill and creativity -- it might turn out fabulous. The important thing is to have fun.

 

My only concern so far (and BTW I don't build in plastic, for whatever that's worth) is that there will be a significant and likely noticeable difference between the 1/535 scale kit and the 1/500 PE parts. The difference might not be glaringly apparent for smaller items like the light AA weapons, but I'm pretty sure it will cause fit issues with something as large as the superstructure.

 

Carry on!

[BarrettM82]

Thanks Chris, 

 

Many thanks for you comments and fair point on the 1/500 to 1/535. The main elements from Toms will be the 50 cals and railing but you've got me thinking.... mm... was hoping I'd get away with slightly larger main SK2 radar and crane pieces. I haven't got them yet, still waiting on the post but may be option to scale them back?

[king derelict]

Thats quite a challenge but from my limited experience I think its mostly doable and the rest can be worked around to make a great model. It you have it in a case no-one can get their noses and micrometers right on the detail. 

The Bofors are nasty but could you replace the barrels with brass rod or use brass barrels from a bigger 1/700 scale calibre?

Good Luck

Alan

[Grayhawk]

Wouldn't pounding your hand repeatedly with a mallet be easier.  It feel so good when you stop!!!  That's quite the project.  I built one when I was about 10 and it looks like a New Jersey when it'd done.  Does it still come with the medallion relating to the signing of the surrender of Japan?  Always wondered if it was still in the kit.  Cheers!!!

[mikegr]

7 hours ago, king derelict said:

Thats quite a challenge but from my limited experience I think its mostly doable and the rest can be worked around to make a great model. It you have it in a case no-one can get their noses and micrometers right on the detail. 

The Bofors are nasty but could you replace the barrels with brass rod or use brass barrels from a bigger 1/700 scale calibre?

Good Luck

Alan

An average Trumpeter kit in 1/700 would give more detailed AA guns not to mention high end brands

[BarrettM82]

7 hours ago, Grayhawk said:

Wouldn't pounding your hand repeatedly with a mallet be easier.  It feel so good when you stop!!!  That's quite the project.  I built one when I was about 10 and it looks like a New Jersey when it'd done.  Does it still come with the medallion relating to the signing of the surrender of Japan?  Always wondered if it was still in the kit.  Cheers!!!

 

Sure does Grayhawk, part of the nostalgia of getting this kit to remind me of the real visit. Here's the brass plate replica included in the kit, with my photos from the real thing in Hawaii. 

Edited February 23, 2022 by BarrettM82

[BarrettM82]

1 hour ago, mikegr said:

An average Trumpeter kit in 1/700 would give more detailed AA guns not to mention high end brands

 

True Mikegr but if I go that route I might just be tempted to drop the revell build completely!  and 1/700 just a bit small for the space I'm looking to fill.

 

9 hours ago, king derelict said:

 

The Bofors are nasty but could you replace the barrels with brass rod or use brass barrels from a bigger 1/700 scale calibre?

Good Luck

Alan

 

Never used brass rod, would a normal metal saw be enough to cut it, also would need super small sub 1mm diameter right? Finally, can you flare brass without cracking it at those dimensions ? The Bofors have flared ends on their barrels. I'm looking around for 1/700 custom barrels but no joy so far.

 

I still have a mad thought of trying to use a resin option , has anyone used resin castings from a silicone scratch build mould to custom build ship parts?

[mikegr]

12 minutes ago, BarrettM82 said:

 

True Mikegr but if I go that route I might just be tempted to drop the revell build completely!  and 1/700 just a bit small for the space I'm looking to fill.

 

 

Never used brass rod, would a normal metal saw be enough to cut it, also would need super small sub 1mm diameter right? Finally, can you flare brass without cracking it at those dimensions ? The Bofors have flared ends on their barrels. I'm looking around for 1/700 custom barrels but no joy so far.

 

I still have a mad thought of trying to use a resin option , has anyone used resin castings from a silicone scratch build mould to custom build ship parts?

for barrel improvement i use brass. I think 0.4-0.6mm would be ok in your case. Also sterile needles are good as they come in even smaller diameter. I cut them with a rotary tool with a disk cutter. Then sand a bit the edges.

[BarrettM82]

42 minutes ago, mikegr said:

for barrel improvement i use brass. I think 0.4-0.6mm would be ok in your case. Also sterile needles are good as they come in even smaller diameter. I cut them with a rotary tool with a disk cutter. Then sand a bit the edges.

 

Super helpful mikegr, thank you. Needles are good shout too as I have a batch for car paintwork repair. With brass, can you flare it at all with heat? or will it crack? The bofors also seem to have recoil springs, so could just use a bit of milliput to replicate them.

[mikegr]

5 hours ago, BarrettM82 said:

 

Super helpful mikegr, thank you. Needles are good shout too as I have a batch for car paintwork repair. With brass, can you flare it at all with heat? or will it crack? The bofors also seem to have recoil springs, so could just use a bit of milliput to replicate them.

For something more flexible only brass or copper wire will do.

The recoil is a bit of fantasy thing. In 1/700 maybe can be omitted but in 1/535 you need to scratch it or think of it something ready available. Here's a recent work of how I use needles to make barrels. They are coated with humbrol oil based primer

 

[robert952]

I look forward to this log.  I, too, assembled this as a young lad of 10-12.  I, too, have a copy in the closet that awaits a spot on my schedule.  (Yeah...like I have a real schedule.  😉 )

 

Great info already on the guns.  

[lmagna]

9 hours ago, BarrettM82 said:

and 1/700 just a bit small for the space I'm looking to fill.

You could split the difference with this kit in 1/600: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/arii-a133-uss-missouri-bb-63--237481

Or if 1/400 is not too big: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264335599406?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 is another possible option.

The ARII kit would have go be retro fitted unless you were building her in post Gulf War/ museum ship form.

 

You should be able to find some very thin copper wire that can be wound around the 40mm barrels to make the springs. That should  be more delicate looking and easier than Milliput.

 

[Landlubber Mike]

Unless there is a PE upgrade set specifically made for this kit/scale, if it were me, I'd be inclined to just buy another kit in a more standard scale and/or that has a dedicated upgrade set for it.  

[BarrettM82]

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

You should be able to find some very thin copper wire that can be wound around the 40mm barrels to make the springs. That should  be more delicate looking and easier than Milliput.

 

 

Great minds imangna!  was thinking the same, did a rough prototype here on my car detailing blunt needle. Not bad, will need to scale down a notch but good to have this option. At this scale more than enough detail though. Anyway, I'm going to move on and have this route in the back of my head.

[BarrettM82]

This poor kit really is showing its age, have ordered light clamps to be safe for the gluing part of the deck to hull, I'm worried it might pop with the poor fit. Yes.. could just use tape but better be safe.  In the meantime, have done a batch of mods to help with fit and prepared a new batch of sprue goo for the inevitable gaping holes. Also bored out the main gun barrels and glued up the very basic super structure parts. 

 

 

[BarrettM82]

Right Photo etch arrived from Toms models, a bit water damaged & rust etc.. a shame looks like it was dunked in water in transit, not the Tom's models guys fault. Anyway... all should be repairable.

 

The good news is my naïve , crack pot idea actually might work!  as the scale looks fine on the railings, doors, and even main catapults for the planes - see catapult example below.

 

 

[BarrettM82]

One question for you pros out there.. anyone have any experience with radar in particular sk2 builds from PE.. instructions not the best. Can't find any youtube tutorials either.

 

 

 

[BarrettM82]

Gluing and clamping done, time for some sprue glue to seal up the gaps etc.

 

 

[BarrettM82]

Filling gaps.. lots of filling! Have filed out the rubbish chain mouldings and added filler putty to produce new smooth surface. I’ll add real chain later. Drilled cavity for mooring chains. 
 

Finally added thick layer of primer to hull , so I can score panel lines to hull. 
 

Toying with doing some preshading of panels like in my plane projects. Not sure, maybe even use fine black marker then overspray to give some hint of panels. It’s my first ship so a bit clueless. Anyone any advice?

[BarrettM82]

Finally back on this after break on other projects.

 

• Started the PE additions
• Bored out the portholes
• Added more detail to superstructure like piping, ladders and railings
• Added blast bags to guns with rivet detail.
• Added conical base to rear Bofors mounts with Milliput.
• Removed ridiculous upside down life boat with scratch designed 3d print

 

All a bit rough and needs fine sanding but getting there.

 

Next:

• Remove deck machine guns and replace with PE versions. Add hull features like plating and outlet ports, panel detail and raised rivet detail.
• Add gas cylinders and life rings to lower deck.
• Add PE SK2 radar dome to mast.

 

Still struggling on Bofors replacements, thinking of going resin scratch build from silicone molds. Need to see on that one.

Edited May 31, 2023 by BarrettM82

[ddp]

check these links for the quad 40mm mounts & 20mm guns.

https://www.3dmodelparts.com/1-500-quadruple-40-mm-bofors-autocannons-with-shields-4-pcs/

https://www.3dmodelparts.com/1-500-single-20-mm-oerlikon-cannons-pedestal-mount-16-pcs/

 

BB-63 USS Missouri Booklet of General Plans (1944) https://archive.org/details/bb63bogp1944

 

i would use an old #11 blade to scrape the hull down to the main deck. when i do mine eventually from the periods of 1944 to 1984, i'll be replacing the original main deck with .040" sheet plastic. i've done that in this link which is an ongoing project.  http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=165105

[BarrettM82]

Thanks ddp,

 

Some great tips there. Unfort the 1/500 guns are out of stock but let's see might come back. Can't do myself as would need resin high end printer

 

however my basic pla injection printer did a good job of making a realistic hellcat versus the one with the kit!

 

I'm using top drawings book as guide to layout / detail etc. A great resource !

 

 

[ddp]

except that the ship's aircraft is a Curtiss SC-1 Seahawk-5 not a Hellcat.

[BarrettM82]

Ha ha that shows the research I've done on the planes!! I stand corrected.. new stl file search for tonight!

[ddp]

then also check for the stl files for the 20mm & quad 40mm boffers guns.

[BarrettM82]

Using Syrene to add plating and anchor base along with aluminium sheeting to raise the terribly moulded splinter shields. Also added PE ladders, steps and doors. Kept the Aztec stairs as a base for PE.

Edited December 30, 2023 by BarrettM82
Update

[BarrettM82]

Portholes drilled now to start deck paintwork.