Nisha by Grey - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Brixham 'Mumble Bee'

[Grey]

I will not delve into the unboxing too deeply, as maddeningly: The UPS delivery arrived, and I, with two meetings in my workday to go.

 

Others have unboxed this and given their impressions with much more practiced and skilled eyes than I am capable of. @James Hand @AJohnson are two build logs that I have spent (all non-working hours, of course) time reviewing to hopefully, have some of their ability and insights find their way into my attempt at this gorgeous kit.

 

 

I ordered this kit on Sunday, and it is early afternoon on Wednesday and the Nisha made it's way to me in the current deep freeze in the Midwest US. Incredible speed, really.

 

The box was well protected in a solid outer cardboard box/covering that was well sealed. My initial impressions are that I have made a good choice, as the quality of the manual, plans, and box contents are apparent. Every part and piece is sealed in a labeled bag that was covered top, bottom and sides with a layer of bubble wrap.

 

I have to admit a bit of surprise as to the diminutive size of her for a beginner kit--despite knowing the dimensions prior to ordering. I can also tell you that in my excitement and haste to get Nisha headed my way, I made a mistake not ordering the sails with her. I can tell already I will want to add that to this build in order to work on my sail-making skills. More pointedly: my lack thereof. 

Very excited to give this kit from Vanguard my level best. It is a well put together kit of a beautiful little working craft, which is pleasing to the eye in photos alone. Having it 'come to life' on my work bench will only enhance it's beauty in my eyes. Work/chores cannot end soon enough.

 

Cheers,

Grey 

 

 

 

[AJohnson]

👏 Hi Grey, really looking forward to seeing another "Nisha" joining the flotilla! ⛵⛵⛵

[Grey]

Absolutely couldn't help myself...and the moment dogs were walked, fed, and satiated with fetch in the frigid back yard...to the basement we went:

Parts cut out very nicely, and to the untrained hand and eye, seem well cut. 

The manual said to use a Dremel at a recommended speed of 8000rpm and follow the extremely beginner friendly bevel line(s). This works great--with the caveat that less is more, and slow is smooth. After the initial shock of seeing so much material get removed, I changed to a finer grit sanding drum, and dropped the speed. I am not an 8000rpm Dremel user as of yet.
We will soon find out why.

Dry fit the frames, as per the instructions--which are photographed and explained extremely well. It may be the parts in the kit have been updated since the manual was published, as there appeared to either be a typo, or a part eliminated/added as the cradle #'s were not the same. Very minor issue, and even I figured it out. The rest of you will have no trouble.

The discerning eye will see where in a fit of overconfidence, part "18" was gouged to the point that it will not plane out with it's mate along the stern? stem? rudder-ish area. I resolve to learn and speak properly to the parts of the Nisha. Lastly: sometimes a little bit of creativity gets the job done. No tools were harmed in the making of this photo. Photographers ego notwithstanding. 

Cheers,

Grey

[Grey]

I hope this finds you all well...I know that after today some quiet time with Nisha and an audiobook was about the best medicine I could find.

Parts "4" and Parts "7" are shown clamped here. The clamp on the bow is for balance. After day 2 on this kit, I am very happy with the quality, and a long sniff of the box contents is all the aromatherapy one needs.
I am not a large human being, and have hands relatively in proportion--but the pegs, of which I think are for strength, and to avoid amateurish misplacement of the frame parts that make up "4" and "7" were difficult to get in. My solution was a needlenose pliers. Holding them square, I was able to insert them with minimal fussing around. The added perceived challenge was: I had applied diluted wood glue, and felt myself firmly on the clock. All is well that ends well, and they were put in place, clamped with the little green guys, and the return to my work (so I can buy modeling stuff) was inevitable.

I should have paid more attention, and listened to the experiences of others concerning the sub-deck. The frames are slotted to receive it both port and starboard, planing out at the top of the false keel (I think this is good terminology), and their top edge. The quality of material, measurements, and cutting of this kit are exact enough that the error isn't in the material--but rather mine. A small cant or misalignment of the frames (which if memory serves...are not glued yet?) will render this operation difficult. Like the manual says: double check your alignment if it seems like you cannot flex the plywood enough to seat where it belongs. Do however, take good care at the bow as that is where I nearly snapped it off. If you look at the photo immediately above, to the left of the orange clamp closest to the bow--you can see where I had a bit of a "blow out" and tore some fibers of the top layer of the sub-deck. A little chisel work to "let it in" solved it...but you shouldn't need to do that if you are smarter, and more careful than me. The clamps on the sub-deck were very lightly snugged, just to put my mind at ease more than anything.

First go at fairing the hull. The manufacturer of the industrial sized emery board in the manual is the way to go. I was very impressed with the size, and grit of the coarse option. You can get multiple digits on it in order to feel the frames through the tool, and for me: "feel" is important. 
I still have work to do fairing, but I feel it very important to mention the following: DO wear a mask. We're all used to it by now, and without thinking I took a call this afternoon and instead of sitting at the computer, picked up the Nisha and lightly started the fairing. The MDF is nasty stuff, and of course the work you will be doing is fine particles. Naturally, I ended up with a runny nose and panic muting my phone while on the call during the onset of uncontrollable sneezing. I spent a lot of years in the field before coming into the office, and "know the type". Safety gear isn't always on our checklist of Things That Make Me Look Macho. Forget it. Just put on the mask I know you have somewhere, and save yourself the weepy eyes, runny nose, and sneezing like a lunatic. It's even in the manual--no exceptions. I didn't even let the cowdogs in the shop during sanding--and they'll eat anything.

Oh--I was right about the sails. I can't build this without them. Sorry Mr. Watton, another shipment headed to the US Midwest 🤡

 

Cheers All--Be Well,

Grey

[AJohnson]

Going strong there Grey and you broke less parts of the hull than me getting the deck on! 👏

[Grey]

 

Quote

25 minutes ago, AJohnson said:

Going strong there Grey and you broke less parts of the hull than me getting the deck on! 👏

 

Just you wait, Sir

 

I have plenty of things to report/repair next update. 

[Grey]

Behold!

 

This is what happens when you drop the starboard stern corner of your model on concrete. 
Repairs (after crying) were completed by cutting small “sisters” to give more purchase for the glue/clamps needed to complete repairs.

She may yet sail

[Grey]

Wow. Gross.

I didn't realize how insidious the Blue Heeler hair is. Well...perhaps it's for the best. Since their hair is indestructible, it may as well be glued and sanded into the Nisha. Will give it strength. 

*This is not a tested method, nor does it appear in the manual. Kit-bashing, naturally

[Grey]

Using the excess of 1mm pear, I fashioned a crude facsimile of the right bulwark. Using a #11 blade and a straight edge, I marked the lower most engraved line to simulate the where the bulwark is to be placed on the upper temporary bulkheads. 

I used this line to attempt a mock-up/practice run on if I want to follow @AJohnson's neat idea of adding scuppers. (It really looks good on his build, and I think it visually interesting) 

Using my Dremel, and a 60 grit sanding wheel/disc--the results are here. A seriously gnarly cut, and despite the kerf of the sanding disc being minute, I just don't think the control is there to make a cut this small with any degree of accuracy, with my current tools. The Dremel was stationary, so the cut was attempted free-hand. Sketchy, and it just felt too close to being out of control. A plunge cut with a table saw could potentially work...but of course there would be work to do on the back side due to the radius?radii?circumference? of the blade. Also the kerf of the blade would need to be taken into account.

 

I may try an idea or two I've got kicking around with hand tools, but my experience and inclination thus far is to leave it be--despite my attraction to the detail. I can see possibly making a sort of jig in order to be able to use a flexible razor saw...but again: Will have to play around with mock-ups and get very steady, and achieve a great result before putting tools to the actual kit bulwark. Something to mull over--and part of the fun!

 

Cheers,

Grey

[AJohnson]

Hi Grey just seen this after replying to you on my log. If I had my time over and actually “planned” 😱 in advance I think a fine razor saw as you mention would be the more controlled method to go with cutting scuppers in a solid bulwark. The other alternative is obviously more complicated and means building the bulwarks from scratch starting at the top edge of the scuppers. Either way I think some structural bulwark stanchions are needed to hold the bulwarks stiff along their length. 
Looking forward to seeing your further ideas being tried out. 

[Grey]

Andrew:

Thank you so much for your thoughtful replies. Here, and there! I realized after posting my rather rambling question on your log that it was much more suited here...

 

After sleeping on it, I think the way forward is to build the kit as intended, and perhaps have my fun with any additional flavor and enhancements in the form of deck clutter/items. I think this way I can move forward on building and completing a finished model, rather than make a mistake to work through/be discouraged over. 

 

This doesn't mean I won't try to make scuppers on a mockup...but I'm not willing to risk the kit bulwarks and not have material and tools to attempt a scratch build of them. Scratch building is far, far, far away in my future. I think fundamentals and completion will better serve me as it concerns the Nisha.

Having spent some time reviewing the manual with a little dose of Mastini's book, I think this is the way forward.

Your idea of "structural" bulwark stanchions/timberheads definitely has merit though...🤔

[Grey]

Bulwarks have been achieved. Sans scuppers. This time.

I’ve begun planking…and need to remind myself it’s a process, and not a race. I just want that “Whole Hull” dopamine. I do not have a great sequence of construction for the brass pins. I think it’s a matter of the wrong tool(s) for the job. The small driver the manual suggested has not arrived, so we wait. Adaption is the hallmark of the versatile modeler…but in my case: the Nisha is my kit to build solid fundamentals.

While waiting on bulwarks to set, and the one course of planking I muddled through…I did work on hatches. 

Again: a matter of wrong tool/component. I am unhappy with the discoloration on the thread from over application of a thin CA. Medium was most likely the play here, and a dab will do ya. Will likely revisit this, now that I have a better feel for working the thread. 
One bonus of another Hobby of attaching tiny things to lines: multitudes of small cases to protect finished/pending parts. 

Cheers,

Grey 

[Grey]

Soul crushingly slow…but!

 

I have a sort of routine down for planking. It is not as cool/fast/easy/fun as the videos, tutorials I’ve watched would make it seem. Ok—it is fun. When you get it to work. The key is: keep trying until it works. 
Don’t force it. Scrap the bad piece. Fit it until it is THE plank.

This is a complete noob/beginner build, so carry on if you got this. But, to my Fellows: this can be done. It is slow (right now) but it speeds up, and you absolutely get better at it. 
Fairing the bulkheads/frames is a massive component—so don’t skimp. Do it longer than you think you should. And also: take heart. It is worth it. And feels GOOOOOD.

The brass pins are the actual finickyest, most terrible POS hardware you’ll ever encounter…but work a system, and keep going. Eventually it makes sense. Like any construction task: make sure you have the right tools for the job. 
This will never compete for most beautiful Nisha, but it will always be MY Nisha.

Cheers, 

Grey 

[Nipper]

Grey - I'm enjoying your commentary!  Your description of your feelings and emotions while building the model are so true.  This is what modelling is all about. 

 

I'm new to the game: I've built Chris Watton's Alert (taking lots of guidance from Blue Ensign's and other build logs on here) and now I'm working on Chris' Sphinx.  I've just reached the fairing and planking stage and my heart sank a little at the thought of these tasks.  But your commentary has given me heart!  You're right - take it slow and easy, enjoy the feel, and celebrate every successful plank.  It doesn't matter how long it takes - it's all about the satisfaction in doing a job well.

[Grey]

Nipper! 
I hope to get to a level to build Alert someday.

 

The Vanguard kits are incredible. Top quality. I just hope to at least pull off a semblance of a decent build. 
Thank you so much for stopping in. I really appreciate it. Progress is being made!

 Cheers,

Grey 

[chris watton]

Doing well!

 

The brass pins are finer than most others, and much harder to source (and more expensive). I use these in my kits because they work well with the MDF, whereas thicker (and much cheaper) pins are not so good.

[Grey]

27 minutes ago, chris watton said:

The brass pins are finer than most others, and much harder to source (and more expensive). I use these in my kits because they work well with the MDF, whereas thicker (and much cheaper) pins are not so good.

🤩 Thank you for stopping by! 
My comment about the brass pins had nothing to do with their quality, and everything to do with the quality of my workmanship. There is nothing about this kit that indicates anything but an eye for detail, quality, and ease of building. My frustrations are that of a novice--but the kit is gentle, and teaching me to be patient, take my time--however: I will admit having to go over the introduction in the manual about treating each stage as a separate project. 
As a former utility lineman--my idea of fine hardware is a 1/2" galvanized staple. 
Loving my Nisha. It's trying me--but the result will be worth it. 😃

Cheers,

Grey

[Grey]

Not a lot of build progress on Nisha today, as I've been scratching my head a bit at planking, and doing my best to avoid the typical pitfalls of the amateur.

Having the manual available in a .pdf is fantastic for the ability to zoom in and use the photographs to see the parts and pieces, and how they go together.

 

Admittedly, I've been in the warmer confines of upstairs thoroughly enjoying perusing a copy of Edgar J. March's "Sailing Trawlers" which I was able to find reasonably priced at a used bookseller. I come to this book on the from the fascinating build log and fellow Nisha builder @AJohnson. In that: we own the same kit, and I look at his log with an eye bent to the aspirational. 

For me: one of the unintended, yet obvious segues in building a model ship is learning about them, the people that made their livings on them, built them, and so forth. Absolutely fascinating stuff.

 

One small anecdote I loved: The shipbuilding firm of J.W. & A. Upham built Nisha and their blacksmith, Elliott, came to the firm at at the age of 11 (I was picking my nose, and putting forks in electrical sockets at 11) and worked there, never missing a day for the next 65 to 66 years. Upon his retirement, the firm paid his wages until he passed. 

 

Perhaps the Wife would give me the same deal once Nisha is finished?

[AJohnson]

14 hours ago, Grey said:

Perhaps the Wife would give me the same deal once Nisha is finished?

Well that would be good, but my Admiral sees my model boats as a distraction from far more ‘important’ things like decorating the house or gardening and other such ‘defaulters’ punishments, at least she doesn’t have a ‘Cat-o-nine tails’! 🤣

Edited March 2, 2022 by AJohnson

[Grey]

1st planking complete. My Nisha and I definitely aren’t going to win any modeling contracts on our first go, but the experience was worth it.

The wording in the manual suggests there’s more than one way to skin a hull—so I definitely was working on it anticipating needing cleaner work on the next go.

Been reading, YouTubing, and reading some more on techniques/best practices for best results. 
This is premature: but it’s almost a shame I’m learning on this kit, since it’s such a beautiful little craft. Perhaps with more experience I can revisit her and display them side by side. 🤣

I am lucky to work for whom I do, as an unexpected little performance bonus has bolstered the coffers to kit out my little shop. 
Having the right tools for the job does make a difference. 
Somehow—a kit that shall remain nameless fell into my shopping basket when Nisha’ s sails were ordered…weird. 😁

 

Cheers All,

Grey

[Nipper]

Grey - well done on the first planking!  Hopefully the second planking will go easier because of the sanding, filling and shaping you will do.

 

I'm intrigued by the mystery item in your shopping basket - would it be possible to alert us as to what it may be?!

[michael mott]

Nice to see another cutter being built, as you say they are beautiful craft, one of these days I shall have to build a smaller one that can be displayed easily.

 

I shall continue to follow along.

 

Michael

[Grey]

@Nipper Thank you! Some planks were obviously more difficult than others, and it took me a little while to fully understand both tapering, and the edge-bevel to get a better fit. Rudimentary of course...but I am a life-long learner by doing, so despite actual heaps of information out there, it takes doing for me to get some things to click.

 

I would love to give you a timely alert to the kit that has arrived with Nisha's sails...but alas: I am unable to do the conversion to zulu time in my head...

 

@michael mott Thank you kindly for stopping in. Rank amateur build here--and doing my best to learn and improve technique while having a self-imposed responsibility to do her justice. Thank you again!

[Grey]

Tip to newbies, as myself:

Watch your clamping adding part #38!

I split my “sub-bulwark?” with a misplaced clamp. 
It’ll be ok I’m sure…but just do what you can to miss it. It took no time at all. 
The stress of not making a hideous mess of our kit designers ideas…sheesh…at some point, we’re even, yes? 

[Thukydides]

You are making good progress. Yes you have to be careful when applying pressure such that you are bending parts parallel to the grain. I have broken more than one piece this way 😃.

[Grey]

Definitely making way…

I am struggling a bit on the 2nd layer of planking. I just haven’t found a method that works real well for me yet. Little too much guess work for my tastes-and I fumble around with the CA a bit. Need to find a better way to apply. 
Still enjoying the process, even if I need to remind myself that frustration is part of learning. 🥲

Thanks for stopping in! 
Cheers,

Grey 

 

[Nipper]

I found the same problem when 2nd planking my Alert.  It was a struggle to stop the CA from getting where it wasn't wanted.  I tried using the tip of a needle to place small drops or smears of CA exactly where I wanted it to go and this worked well.  Certainly better than those long plastic nozzles that you can buy.

The main problem was in not shaping the plank accurately enough.  I think you've said above that you've read the many guidelines on this here on MSW - so it's careful cutting, lots of dry fitting until you're certain the shape and bend of the plank is right, and that made it a lot easier.

It's a long process, but as you say, make the challenge part of the fun!

[James H]

7 hours ago, Grey said:

Definitely making way…

I am struggling a bit on the 2nd layer of planking. I just haven’t found a method that works real well for me yet. Little too much guess work for my tastes-and I fumble around with the CA a bit. Need to find a better way to apply. 
Still enjoying the process, even if I need to remind myself that frustration is part of learning. 🥲

Thanks for stopping in! 
Cheers,

Grey 

 

 

I use Gorilla CA gel, straight from the bottle. The tip is fine enough to apply nice, small dots along the planks with some consistency. 

[Thukydides]

10 hours ago, Grey said:

Definitely making way…

I am struggling a bit on the 2nd layer of planking. I just haven’t found a method that works real well for me yet. Little too much guess work for my tastes-and I fumble around with the CA a bit. Need to find a better way to apply. 
Still enjoying the process, even if I need to remind myself that frustration is part of learning. 🥲

Thanks for stopping in! 
Cheers,

Grey 

 

I put a small amount of CA at a time on a yogurt container lid and then dip a toothpick in it and use it to apply the glue to the planks. @James H's solution (using a fine tip) will also work well. There is a bit of a learning curve as to the exact amount to apply. Too much and it spills over the edges and too little and you don't get it to stick. I found it just took me a while to get the feel for it. This is all part of the learning process. As long as you take your time and treat each plank as its own project you will do great.

Edited March 7, 2022 by Thukydides

[Grey]

Thanks all for your replies and encouragement. I'm keeping the delivery fellow pretty busy the last couple weeks...

 

I'll try the Gorilla CA. Hopefully you don't need the strength of a Gorilla to get it to come out as I am finding with the Starbond. 

@Nipper one of the reasons I skipped Alert for now--was exactly for the planking. I need better technique and skills before taking that plunge. Definitely the shaping/fitting is one of the skills I need to improve. I spent about 20-30 mins getting a plank just right and caught it on my sleeve and snapped it in two. That was frustrating, but lesson learned to go slower, and treat each piece like a full sized piece of finish carpentry. Just mindset!

Thanks again for all the replies, it was needed to move beyond the destruction of that finely honed plank🤣

-Grey