Getting the Courage to Start Fairing a Hull for the First Time

[Glomar]

Hi All, 

I have been looking through the forms on various techniques but for whatever reason I am REALLY worried about messing this step up. I wanted to see if anyone not only had "idiot proof" advice but also could tell me pit falls to avoid. One of my main fears is overdoing it and thus losing the overall structure of the ship so is there are rule of thumb for how much sanding is needed before checking with the plank. Is there a method to quickly checking the bevel is correct for multiple planks without lining them all up. I actually bought flexible emory board esq sanding sticks which people recommended so hopefully that makes the process less complicated. 

Ultimately, I feel like this is way less complicated (or maybe the FEAR is real!) than I am imagining it so I really appreciate any help for getting out of my head. 

For context, I am currently working on the fantastic boat Nisha by Vanguard which I am in the nascent stages of a build log https://modelshipworld.com/topic/31683-nisha-by-glomar-vanguard-models-164-brixham-mumble-bee/#comment-898192

 

[Dr PR]

Glomar,

 

The major problem with sanding the hull planking smooth is sanding a hole through the planks. So you want to go slow and easy. This can be a problem if the edges of your planks do not fit together smoothly.

 

Some kits do not have enough bulkheads - the gaps between bulkheads are so wide that the planks can flatten between bulkheads instead of following a smooth curve. Then when you start sanding to get a smooth curve on the hull you can sand through the planks near the bulkheads. You can avoid this problem by inserting extra bulkheads between the wide spaced kit parts, or by filling the gaps with balsa and sanding it to shape before adding the planking.

 

I plank hulls before attaching the deck. This allows me to shine a light into the hull and look for thin spots in the planking. I can always put a layer of putty inside the planking if it is getting thin, and I like to coat the inside of the hull with thin epoxy to glue everything together firmly. This prevents seams from opening between planks in the future.

 

The best way to avoid holes due to sanding is to bend and fit the planks carefully so the edge of a plank does not rise above the surface of the neighboring planks. Then you need very little sanding to get a smooth surface. There is an art to accomplishing this, and there are several planking tutorials on the forum.

[allanyed]

Glomer

Are you talking about fairing frames, bulkheads or the planking after it is glued to the frames or bulkheads?

Thanks

Allan

[Glomar]

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

Glomer

Are you talking about fairing frames, bulkheads or the planking after it is glued to the frames or bulkheads?

Thanks

Allan

Hi Allan, 

I am trying to fair the frames/bulkheads 

 

Thanks!

Hanna 

[Nipper]

Hello Glomar

I'm a relative newbie but I've done the fairing on two boats now.  I understand your fear!  My advice (based on what so many excellent people on MSW have said in the past) is just to take it slowly and be patient.  Use your eye to judge what the line should be to enable the bulkheads to sit comfortably. and check regularly with a full length plank.  Hold the plank along the bulkheads (using clamps helps with this) and look to see the extent to which each bulkhead  is at the right angle for the plank.  Do this all the way down from top to keel.  Use a pencil to mark where bulkheads need more fairing.

 

You won't ruin your boat if you take it carefully.  Look on it as a challenge, and imagine how delighted you are going to be when you've achieved it, as you surely will!

 

Nipper

[Oldsalt1950]

Glomar, take your time with the fairing, start at the deck line and follow the curve along the deck this will get you started. I see there are bevel marks on your bulkheads, so follow those to establish your curve. You also have a sub-deck whose curve you can follow to establish your fairing curve at that point. just take it a little at a time and all will be good. fairing looks more intimidating than it really is. Remember to check your progress as you go.

Jim

[glbarlow]

Leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of mid-ship and the front edge of char on those rear of midships, that way you’re sure not to lose the proper hull shape. You may need to do more shaping at the bow and stern, use a very thin plank and slide it up and down 3-4 bulkheads at a time to check for a smooth run at that the plank makes contact with all the bulkheads.  
 

You may find as you plank you didn’t take enough, so adjust it then or if you took too much you can add shims to correct.  It’s all good, relax and have fun. 

[wool132]

Parallel universe: I’m doing the same triad, also working on the Nisha.

 

Adding to the two posts above, watch out for those frames hanging off the stern as you muck about with the hull. I didn’t need to drop it on the floor like Grey did in post #7; I just knocked the back against the edge of my workbench.
 

I haven’t started planking so I don’t yet know how good a fairing job I’ve actually done. Being double-planked, I’m hoping there’ll be a lot of forgiveness (one of the reasons for doing this kit before something else like the English Pinnace).

 

Jonathan

Edited April 6, 2022 by wool132

[Peanut6]

Welcome Glomar, I'm also a beginner still working on my first build.  You are correct on both counts, the fairing of the frames/bulkheads isn't as complicated as you think and the fear you feel is real, at least it was for me.  IMHO a couple of things to keep in mind, every mistake/error you make can be fixed so rest your mind there and probably most importantly is to take your time.  Researching the various techniques puts you on the right path, but fully understanding the techniques is what gets you there.  If you don't get it, no matter what it is, ask and somebody will step up and help you out.  This community is just awesome in their knowledge and skills but probably the best at helping/teaching us rookies how its done.  Everybody has their own way of doing things, I'm pretty sure none of them are wrong its just what works for them.  Some people use thread to check for sufficient fairing, some use a full plank, I myself used a thick piece of card cut to plank width because it just worked for me.  You do need to check every plank location, no avoiding that, but you don't have to line all the planks up at once.  I would take my card and just slide it up and down the the frame/bulkhead and check good frame/bulkhead contact to plank at each location and check for any peaks and/or flats between frames.  I would say the biggest pit fall is not fairing enough.  During the course of planking you'll have numerous opportunities to go back (because you're always checking again and again, trust me) and hit that one spot just a little bit more if necessary.  And if, just if you would happen to fair too much, you can always build it back up using some scrap wood from the kit and give it another try.  Take your time, relax and enjoy the journey.

Edited April 6, 2022 by Peanut6
typo

[starlight]

Hello Glomar,

 

I'm also a newbie but I would like to echo what @glbarlow said about leaving a tiny amount of laser char on one edge of each bulkhead. It should look something like this (before fairing in grey outline, after fairing in black):

 

 

On your build log I saw that some of the bulkheads had laser-etched bevel marks. Are all the bulkheads etched? If so, your job is made very easy. If not, you can scribe your own with some cheap calipers in order to help keep things symmetric:

 

 

A small form error amidships will hardly be noticeable. The areas to watch out for are the bow and stern since the curvature is so high. Ultimately you just want to prepare the surfaces so that each plank has maximum contact with the bulkhead and curves naturally. For me, fairing and planking were the most difficult steps so far on my build, and the only way to properly learn them is by doing. A double planked kit, as you have, is the best way to do this.

 

Cheers,

starlight

 

 

[Glomar]

Just have to say that I am absolutely floored by the response (and encouragement!) and that this is truly a wonderful community! I am going to take the leap tonight and I will keep you all posted! 

[Glomar]

On 4/6/2022 at 10:37 AM, glbarlow said:

Leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of mid-ship and the front edge of char on those rear of midships, that way you’re sure not to lose the proper hull shape. You may need to do more shaping at the bow and stern, use a very thin plank and slide it up and down 3-4 bulkheads at a time to check for a smooth run at that the plank makes contact with all the bulkheads.  
 

You may find as you plank you didn’t take enough, so adjust it then or if you took too much you can add shims to correct.  It’s all good, relax and have fun. 

@glbarlow @SpyGlass @Peanut6 @oldsalt 
Making progress but I had a few more questions

1)Do you use a full plank when checking contact with the bulkheads?

2) Should I try and see if the plank makes contact with all the bulk heads at once or can I check contact in sections? (ie: checking contacts bulkheads 1-4 for section 1, 4-8 for sections 2 etc.)  

3) Any advice for checking contact when the planks start to curve/twist at at the aft? (picture 1)  

 

Appreciate the help! 
    

[mtaylor]

36 minutes ago, Glomar said:

@glbarlow @SpyGlass @Peanut6 @oldsalt 
Making progress but I had a few more questions

1)Do you use a full plank when checking contact with the bulkheads?

2) Should I try and see if the plank makes contact with all the bulk heads at once or can I check contact in sections? (ie: checking contacts bulkheads 1-4 for section 1, 4-8 for sections 2 etc.)  

3) Any advice for checking contact when the planks start to curve/twist at at the aft? (picture 1)  

 

Appreciate the help! 

 

I use as long a plank as I can manage. Checking in sections is fine but try to make the check at least 3 bulkheads and overlap  The longer the test plank, I find the better.   Depends on the hull length. I use a soft wood like basswood for checking it easy to twist and bend to the shape needed.

[glbarlow]

A full normal thickness planking isn’t best for checking fairing, it can’t make proper contact until it’s properly.  I use a long 1/64 batten of a soft flexible wood and slide it about, up and down 3-5 bulkheads at a time. 
 

The curves is why I use a thin batten. 

[Peanut6]

Glomar, I agree with mtaylor on plank length and glbarlow on selecting a flexible batton.  Check out post #7 of my build log, it will show you what I used to check fairing.  I always checked in sections, say 1-4 then 2-5 then 3-6 etc.  That way I was getting multiple checks between each frame/bulkhead and in overlalpping sections.  I thought this method would pick up anything and everything all along the way from bow to transom.  I liked the card I used because it was stiff enough to keep its shape yet flexible enough to work the curves and twists very easily, and I had a few twists to deal with.  If I ever got a crease in it. I tossed it and used another one.  

[mtaylor]

For sanding, EZ method works well.  I've also found that some of the long fingernail files from a beauty supply shop that basically sandpaper on both side of a stiff piece of foam work well.  They bend, they're relatively cheap and come in many grits from very course to very fine.  If they get clogged, a quick pass with the shop vac cleans them up.  They do wear out like sandpaper so keep some extras on hand.

[Peanut6]

Agree with mtaylor, they work very well and I added them to my tool box long ago.  Mine aren't on the foam type, just the simple/cheap two sided ones with different grits on each side.  The thing I really like with mine is that they can easilly be cut/trimmed to width to hit those very tight or narrow places. 

Edited April 11, 2022 by Peanut6
typo