HMS Winchelsea by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - 1/48th

[cdrusn89]

Fo'c'sle is now really complete thru Chapter 9 - added the spanshackles and eyebolts.

Working the qdeck planking and assembling the hatch coamings so I can start the centerline planking.

[cdrusn89]

I completed the planking down the port and starboard sides of the qdeck and have two coats of WoP applied (a third goes on today).

 

I have the hatch coamings and the capstan partner installed and the mizzen bits in place (glue is drying as we speak).

 

I will start planking between and around these items shortly although I am still deciding on whether or not to plank over the great cabin (aft of the last hatch).  I am trying to find 1/48th scale furniture (a desk, table and chairs might work out) to place in the great cabin and then not plank from the aft hatch to the transom. If my search is unsuccessful I am still toying with not planking that part as I am not sure it adds anything and would be another area to show my ineptitude at planking where tapering is required (and looking at the template every plank must be tapered).

 

So here is the qdeck at it stands now.

However, before I start the planking I need to address a near disaster at the stern.

 

An inadequately stored piece of 1 X 12 pine fell on the stern and broke off all of the timberheads on the transom. In at least one case it took part of the transom with it.

 

At the moment I have the two port most timberheads reattached and am trying to figure out how to get the others done and then patch up the damage to the transom.

 

While I am at it I will get the timberheads trimmed down in preparation for the aft rail but it may take some effort to get the timberheads reattached and in one case I may have to "start from scratch".

 

I have decided to deal with this before I start the planking.

 

Here is what the stern looks like with the stern rail template in place and two of the six timberheads "back in battery" more or less.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

After looking at my model of Confederacy I decided that I might like to include a ship's boat on skids amidships as is shown on that model. I looked around for a 1/48th scale ships boat and the only thing that came readily to  mind is the "18th Century Long Boat"; another Chuck Passaro model available from Model Shipways in basswood.

 

So while taking a break from Winnie I built the model, outfitted it as if it were to be used both with oars and/or sails and here it is sitting approximately where is would be if I added the beams across the waist to hold it.

 

I have not decided whether or not to include it on Winnie but it is "ready" if I decide to go that way.

 

FYI - although it is not obvious in the picture I used the frieze from Winnie on the hull of the long boat as a substitute for the frieze that is included with the long boat kit. As used on Winnie the frieze was too large. When I tried printing the Winnie frieze from Chuck's web site the scaling function did not work but if I saved the file and opened it using the Acrobat reader I could print them at whatever scale I wanted. I ending up using 50% but then had to use two pieces on each side. The frieze will be more obvious if the long boat is mounted on the skids.

I also managed to get the timberheads at the transom reattached, adjusted to the correct height (based on the provided template) and got some filler in where part of the transom got carried away. Need some paint and probably more filler too. The stern rail is one of the last things in Chapter 10 so I have some time to "get this right".

Edited August 2, 2023 by cdrusn89

[FrankWouts]

Nice progress and a solid repair: looking good Gary!

Frank.

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Frank - your planking job puts mine to shame.

 

Working my way fore to aft on the centerline planking.

 

I am using 3/16" wide planks since that is what I used on the gun deck and it is what is shown in the plans. I had to reposition the mizzen bitts a bit to get them even with the outboard edge of the aft coaming - not sure what I was thinking when I first put them in. Anyway, I am still undecided on whether to plank over the main cabin and if not how to "end" the planking aft of the after-most hatch.

 

I will get the ship's wheel assembled as soon as I get the parts from Chuck (hopefully today) and have started the binnacle assembly.

 

And I finished up the last eight cannon/carriages so they will be ready when we get to the waist.

[scrubbyj427]

Looking good Gary, you’re moving right along, the end is in sight!

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Scrubby - unfortunately I am moving to a new (to me) house and going on a two week cruise in 10 days so whatever is done by 8/15 is likely to remain that way for sometime. I am losing my dedicated workshop in the move and am guessing that re-establishing it is pretty far down the priority list of "she who must be obeyed" as Horace Rumople (of the BBC/PBS series Rumpole of the Bailey) put it.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Here is my finished (except possibly for some touch up paint - it look better in "real life").

 

Although it is probably impossible for anyone else to ever notice but I did glue a compass rose to the two "disks" inside the binnacle. I should have painted the disk edges white too but...

 

And now I have a .jpg compass rose image that can be printed to whatever size I might need in the future.

 

Ships wheel is almost done so I better get busy and complete the centerline decking so I can start the qdeck railing.

[cdrusn89]

The centerline decking is complete (no WoP yet) and the binnacle, ship's wheel and capstan are in place (dry fit for now).

 

I have the breastrail assembled and awaiting another coat of paint. I will probably not glue any of these pieces down until I have the fancy rail and transom rail done. Too many things sticking up presenting more opportunities for disaster - especially at this late stage of things.

[cdrusn89]

The first sets of the qdeck fancy rail ion place. Things lined up relatively well although getting the short post into the "hole" in the base was somewhat of a challenge. That "hole" is made up of the junction of the first two pieces of the lower cap rail and it is possible that the opening is not as big as one might like.

 

A word for those who build this later. If you decide to include the eyebolts for the gun carriages on the qdeck be careful adding the eyebolts as doing so makes the posts, which are already a pair based on the height (lower aft) but now are differentiated port and starboard by which side the eyebolts are placed. It is entirely possible to mess up and get the eyebolts on the wrong side - don't ask me how I know.

 

It is probably best to dry fit the posts and mark which side the eyebolts go on BEFORE you start drilling holes and certainly before you glue any eyebolts in.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

With the first three sections of the lower fancy rail in place I reconsidered my earlier decision to not "populate" the centerline features until the qdeck railing was complete. looking at the upper fancy rail I now recognize how "tender" and "in the way" that I likely to be when in place so I think I will populate the centerline pieces as the lower fancy rail is completed moving aft at the very least before the upper railing is added.

 

Hatchway railing in place.

 

I used 3/32" X 3/32" boxwood as the starting point. The 1/16" X 1/16" material that I have is "less than it might be with respect to dimension consistency. Besides I think I had about a 25% success rate when I used the 1/16" X 1/16" material I have.

 

Anyway I drilled the back two stanchions all the way through in one dimension (fore and aft in this case) and then into that drill hole from the other side making a "T" shaped "passageway" through the square part of the stanchion just below the "ball" at the top. Then I used a piece of .020" piano wire to adjust the stanchions for verticality and then for alignment with the edge of the hatchway. Medium CA was used to secure the stanchion to the hatchway with a .032" "pin" in the bottom of the stanchion. The piano wire was replaced with .020" phosphor-bronze wire which has yet to be painted. I used piano wire while making the adjustments because it is much stiffer than the phosphor-bronze and much less likely to get bent or distorted with repeated handling. I would keep the piano wire but trimming it to an exact length is very difficult and likely to cause collateral damage.

 

The other stanchions were drilled through in one dimension and a similar technique employed to get the stanchions and wire aligned.

 

After the CA had set to hold the stanchions, I put a drop where the wire exited each stanchion then clipped the wire off flush with (more or less) the stanchion.

 

Hopefully a coat of flat black on the wire and touch-up on the stanchions and this will be "done".

[cdrusn89]

Centerline furnishings added as fancy rail (lower) is added.

 

Masking tape is to allow for touch-up painting with less chance of getting black paint other than where it was intended.

[cdrusn89]

The "fleet" is in! I had to move most of the model collection out of their display cases in preparation for the upcoming move to new (to me) house. Hopefully they will be out of harms way here in the workshop when the movers come. They will be transported one-by-one (it is only 8 miles) once the new house is "settled" or at least the display cabinets are back in place as settled is probably a 2024 "event".

I got the fancy molding completed on the port side, including that side of the stern transom molding absent some MORE touch-up painting - does it ever end?

 

Hopefully the starboard side today and the six fairleads tomorrow and some more touch up painting. Then Chapter ten is done and I am off to Europe for two weeks and moving to the new house.

 

 

 

 

FYI - as you can see in the picture above the quarter gallery railing did not survive the fancy railing's installation as well as one might hope. I delayed installing the q-gallery roofs until well after Chapter three (when they were installed in the monograph) but clearly not long enough. The starboard side is in worse shape so they will have to be dealt with during the Chapter eleven and twelve work.

 

 

[jfhealey]

That is a lovely collection to which your Winnie will be a superb addition. Good luck with move Gary. A bit of a nerve shredder for you I suspect.

All the best

Fred

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Fred - yes quite the "nerve shredder" although with closing on Tuesday I believe everything that needed to be done is done or is "well in hand".

[cdrusn89]

I think this is the end of Chapter 10 - and not a moment too soon.

 

I have decided to not plank over the "Great Cabin" as I am still considering adding some furniture there. All I have been able to find in 1/48 scale is doll house items some of which (table and chairs) may be "okay" but everything else I have found is either plastic or not the sort of thing you would find in this space.

 

Last post until sometime later this year after I get a workable arrangement in the new house to allow me to finish this job; and hopefully start a new project not related to painting or otherwise laboring on the new house.

Edited August 14, 2023 by cdrusn89

[FrankWouts]

Very consistent progress and beautiful work Gary!
Success with your move: keep calm and model on!

Frank.

[cdrusn89]

It took longer than I had thought (doesn't everything?) but I have finally gotten at least the inside portion of the workshop relocated. I will really miss the 400 sq ft dedicated workshop I had at the old house but once I get a part of the garage climate controlled I think this will work out. The plan is to have the power tools (Sander, table saw, etc.) in the garage to keep the dust and debris level down in the house. I also am moving the wood storage to the garage so there will probably be more trips to the garage then before but I really need the exercise - while moving is stressful, eating as a stress reliever has its drawbacks.

 

Having seen what others have for work spaces I am grateful to be able to devote this much space to model shipbuilding.

[cdrusn89]

While waiting for the turkey to cook I started working Chapter 11.

 

I started by assembling the 5mm deadeyes while I await delivery of the Scotch Spray Mount Artist's adhesive for the channel assembly.

 

As it turns out I needed another set of the 6mm ones to have some spares and I decided to order the cherry material for chapter 11 as I may decide to do the channels in cherry for some additional contrast.

 

I will likely assemble both the cherry and boxwood (or maybe they are AYC) channels and then decide which to use.

 

I need to go baste the turkey so that this will be as far as I get today - food and football to follow.

[FrankWouts]

Happy Thanksgiving Gary!

[cdrusn89]

Frank,

 

Thank you and I hope your and your family have a safe and joyous holiday seasoI will be back to the Winnie when my holiday guests go home - which is tomorrow..

 

 

[cdrusn89]

I used the Syren "you assemble them" deadeyes in the suggested 65 and 6mm sizes.

 

I also used the "block shaper" to "take the edge off.

 

Unfortunately the block shaper does not remove the "bridge" between the outer shell and the inner piece. See photo below:

And this is one of the "better" examples. I decided that since one side will be against the channel I only had to remove this on the upper side to avoid having the strop rise above the surface of the deadeye at the top where in would be the most noticeable.

 

So I used a very small needle file to remove the bridge on the upper side of the dead eye (the side with two eyes). Now that I have done all that it occurs to me that one way to avoid this "extra" work would be to cut the upper side of the connector on the carrier sheet of the center layer before gluing the three carrier sheets of deadeye layers together. Okay, maybe next time.

 

The monograph says that the deadeyes were "dyed" brown. Chuck says to use fiebings leather dye, medium brown. I will have to acquire some but in the meantime I tried stain.

 

In the photo below there are two examples of each stain I have in my "stain locker". The upper row (left to right) is two using walnut and two cherry - the bottom row is two unstained and two honey.

 

The walnut might work if the leather dye turns out to be "too hard" - Chuck warned that it will dye anything it touches.

 

Edited November 29, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

After much hemming and hawing using stain, dye and WoP I finally decided to go with the natural finish deadeyes.

 

Getting the vinyl strops was more of a struggle than I had imagined, especially for the 6mm ones (somewhat counter-intuitive since they are the larger). Luckily I had two sets of the vinyl hardware so the fact that I broke 15 or so of the strops trying to get them around the deadeye was not a complete disaster.

 

Anyway here they are ready for installation on the channels.

Edited December 5, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side mizzen channels and deadeyes complete.

 

Word to wise, do not cut out the fancy molding based on the drawing alone- don't ask me how I know but it is possible that your model and the drawings do not match exactly. The middle two deadeyes on the mizzen channel should fall on either side of the gun port below.  I had to move the channel forward about 1/8" to make that a reality. Otherwise the there will be no place to attach one of the chainplates. I should have moved mine over another little bit to get the chainplates on each side to be more or less vertical. The forward one has to angle forward to clear the gun port.

 

I will be more careful on the port side.

 

And yes I see that the qdeck railing has come adrift - was trying to make a jig to hold the mizzen stool in position while glue dried - used medium CA instead of PVA but still managed to damage the railing in the attempt,

Edited December 5, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I also got the boarding "ladder" and the fenders installed.

 

I have not yet got the molding between the fenders replaced. I used two different profiles for the upper and lower fancy moldings and can't find any scraps of the lower so will have to make some more.

 

I originally used frieze on copy paper on the fenders and the top step but it seemed to "stand-out too much. It drew my eye to that feature rather than seeing the "whole ship". After some trial and error I finally managed to print the frieze on some silk span that I had from my days making sails. It seems pretty close to the "tissue paper" mentioned in the monograph.

 

Of course some of the ink jet ink leaks through the silk span so you not get as opaque a frieze as with regular copy paper. It turns out IMHO that the silk span's reduced level of opaqueness helps the fenders to blend in with the frieze behind it.  Will work on the chesstrees after I finish the main channels/chainplates.

[Chuck]

Thats looking very good.

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Chuck - new workshop is working okay, at least for now.

 

Starboard main channels, deadeyes and chainplates completed.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 5, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side forward chesstree, eyebolts, channels, deadeyes and chainplates completed.

 

Need to add the billboard (WoP is drying) and then on to the port side.

 

FYI, not trusting myself with a paintbrush in the confined spaces I used a Sharpie to blacken the heads of the brass nails. Some took two "coats" but still easier (IMHO) than trying to paint them.

 

 

Edited December 7, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Starboard side billboard installed.

 

On to the port side after some workbench clean up and material restowing - also need to fix the qdeck railing where it was damaged during the mizzen channel installation.

Edited December 8, 2023 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

For the port side I decided to prepare all the channels with the deadeyes and chainplates before gluing the channel to the hull. I will also check the channel alignment with the associated gun port to make sure the chainplates do not interfere. A lesson learned from the starboard side where I cut out the fancy molding based on the drawing. I also put a drop of thin CA on each deadeye to keep them in the correct orientation and attached to the channel while I attach the chainplates. Another lesson learned from the starboard side - the deadeyes (some at least) would fall out of the channel when I was maneuvering it around to get the chainplates attached.

 

A word of caution though - once the deadeye is glued into the channel and it gets broken off somehow (don't ask me how I know this) getting the remnants of the strop out of the channel can be challenging. A very fine set of needle files comes in very handy.

 

Anyway where the port side channels with deadeye ready for chainplate assembly.